posted March 25, 2007 12:30 PM
ZX14 clutch question; I have too many plates I got a replacement clutch from Schnitz several months ago, in anticipation of frying my stock clutch. I took out the stock clutch, and the only thing that shows wear are the steels, which are pretty blue.
My question is; I took out the little chatter ring, or whatever its called in the back of the clutch. Its not really a plate, just a spring steel ring. I'm going to replace the clutch, you know, fiber first, steel, sharp side towards the engine, when I get to fiber last, I look down, and I have one extra steel plate. What do I do with it??? It seems that with that chatter ring out, I do have room to put two steels together. If I leave the 10th steel plate out, it seems that the stack is slighly too short. Stock clutch had 10 fibers, and 9 steels. The replacement I got has 10 fibers and 10 steels....what do I do??
posted March 25, 2007 03:16 PM
I have gotten clutches from barnett with extra steel or fiber. Could be just an extra that slipt in there. If it is not a barnett extra disk set up with skinnier steels(10), fibers(11) then you should use the same 10 fiber 9 steel set up like stock with the steel ring spacer at the bottom. You can tell when you slide the clutch pack in the basket whether too short or not. Take your old clutch pack and measure stack height and compare. I don't know off hand what the stack height should be. Also follow the manuel for torque spec for hub nut etc. Not a proffessional clutch master, just my limited knowledge.
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Joe
2006 Blue ZX-14
posted March 25, 2007 03:22 PM
That's the one I got, but it had an extra steel plate. No biggie, I think I got it figured out. But now the clutch leave is spongy to the point it won't release the clutch. Do you have to bleed it every time you change the clutch??
posted March 25, 2007 05:16 PM
If you are a serious drag racer you could get the spacer kit for more static to make the clutch engagement stronger(Brock web site). However I dont think you should have to bleed anything unless you opened the hydrolic clutch system. Make sure you soke the new fibers in oil for a bit. Also if your steels are not warped you can beed blast them. From what I heard through Brock etc., the stock clutch is pretty tough. I think I saw you yesterday at the track. Even though I run a V-Rod I also have a 14 with the Brock 200 mph package and a
Schnitz kit, still waiting for the roaring toys swing arm extensions.
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Joe
2006 Blue ZX-14
posted March 25, 2007 05:32 PM
Yea, I did all that, but the lever is still spongy as hell. I rebled everything, started it up, and pulled in the lever a bunch of times. Put it into gear, it holds fine, but if I move the lever about 1 inch, the clutch engages. It's never done this before, so I don't know what the hell to do.
I just replaced the stock clutch with another stock clutch, put it back exactly like I took it out. Even have the little chatter ring in the back, and the correct fibers where they should be. I also have the extra stiff springs that I've been running since last year. I'm stumped.
posted March 25, 2007 06:04 PM
I'm starting to think that when I tried to pull in the clutch on the dyno, at 180, that I bent the shift rod. With the multistage lockup, you cant disengage the clutch til about 90mph or so. I'll have to look into what's replaceable down there.
posted March 25, 2007 06:37 PM
Really stupid question....what do you have your clutch lever adjustment set on? 1-5...on 5 it will release almost right off the bar... You will not have to bleed your clutch every time you replace steels and fibers, i have done mine a million times and never had to do it. Also if you have a stock clutch you will have the one thick inner fiber that has a larger inner dia to allow for the chatter rings...then your reg fibers then your last fiber which has larger pads.
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06 Blue 14
9.008 at 153mph @ 195 suited
posted March 26, 2007 07:03 AM
I think I have a problem with the hydraulic ram/rod that pushed the clutch. When I ran the bike on the dyno last week, I tried to pull in the clutch at 180 while the multistage was still well locked up. The lever came in, but the clutch didn't disengage. Ever since then, the engagement has been like one inch off the bar, and spongy.
Gonna pull off the right side hydraulic thinga ma jigger, and see if that rod is bent.
quote:rounded side of metal clutch plates in toward the motor will give you better results than sharp edge
Why??
I checked the shift rod, its straight, no damage. I have the lever set on 5, I still have to pull it in about one inch before I feel any pressure.
I guess Its time to completely bleed the system and change out the fluid. Thats the only thing I can think of to do.
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posted March 25, 2007 12:30 PM
