wrongway
Pro
Posts: 1078
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posted April 19, 2007 08:05 AM
the countershaft nut has a square extension that provides 4 pulses per revolution . You can midify that to 2 or 3 by grinding or mak a new sensor by welding on to another countershaft nut. 2 points would read 1/2 speed on the speedo.
an 18T front sprocket gets the speedo really close and may allow higher top end. I have not been able to verify that since I cannot get my 14 faster than 180 ( verified speed ). Next trip to maxton might have a higher top end with aero improvements.
Roy
  
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Xtremespeed
Expert Class
Posts: 415
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posted April 19, 2007 11:10 AM
The speedo will not read past 190 even with a different face. I have 210mph faces, but the mechanical limit in the speedo won't let it sweep all the way to the end. The only way would be to use kph with a conversion set in the speedohealer, or have faces made with the numbers closer together.
I noticed someone mentioned transparent mode for the speedohealer. What is this exactly? I thought it just meant the speedohealer would not change the calibration, like not having one at all. I don't see the purpose, unless you only want to use it for derestriction. Also my gear indicator is off with only 7.5% correction and stock gearing.
The speed is sent from the sensor to the gauges and then sent via CAN to the ecu. You can not tie into the CAN. This is a twisted pair containing a lot more information than just gear selection.
Just a few points I thought I should mention. Sorry if this has already been discussed.
I just skimmed the thread quickly.
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When in doubt, Flick it!
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chez
Expert Class
Posts: 134
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posted April 19, 2007 03:24 PM
I like the yellow box, just my ten cents worth
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Chez
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Xtremespeed
Expert Class
Posts: 415
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posted April 19, 2007 06:29 PM
Same problems with yellow box.
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redelk
Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
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posted April 19, 2007 06:55 PM
quote:
Take your speedo to a signmakers shop. Have them take a digital picture of the face for size and font reference. Then they can use a graphics program to make a new face with a different scale and print it on the same vinyl that they use to wrap cars and trailers. You apply the overlay to your face, recalibrate and BINGO! you're good to go..
Doesn't Pastor RedElk run just such a shop? Could h e be persuaded to work on it for bunch of "brothers"?
It would not take a "sign shop" to do the majority, or even all of the work on such a project. It would take some time and a lot of tweaking, though. One only needs to use a graphics program that works with vector art (somewhat similar to AutoCAD). Commonly available programs would include Adobe Illustrator CS2/CS3 or CorelDRAW X3. Basically, what is involve is a lot of time, trial and error... but it could be done.
Also, scanning or taking a "digital picture" wouldn't be much help besides estimating the current placement of the "indication bars" under the numbers. Even with a hi-rez scanner, it wouldn't be that accurate for even reproducing the original face plate.
quote:
The only disadvantage is that the light won't shine through from behind at night, but you might be able to install a couple of clear LED's around the edge on the front side of the face when putting it back together. Not quite as elegant as the first solution, but still effective.
Probably the cheapest way to get around that is to do a hi-rez digitally printed image of the gage and mount it onto a translucent faceplate. It could be screen printed, but the costs would be buck stupid.
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There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
-Ernest Hemingway
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