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BIKELAND > FORUMS > DRAGBIKE ZONE.com > Thread: tear down after Loring NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
entropy


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posted August 14, 2009 11:23 PM        
tear down after Loring

yep, ran GREAT at Loring, and had a good leakdown when i got home.
Leave it alone? NOT!

12.2:1 AF at the track. Me thinks pistons & valves look good???
(yeah-yeah-yeah, i have some piston to head contact. What can I say, they love each other )
























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tcchin


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posted August 15, 2009 12:55 AM        
I guess "throwing fuel at it" really did the trick! Air-tight piston crowns are good piston crowns in my book.
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Y2KZX12R


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posted August 15, 2009 04:06 AM        
Looks good Karl.

The piston to head contact over the pins, mostly #2 left side, concerns me thou. Thats not from piston rock. The light contact front and rear between the valves isnt a problem, but I'd take a couple of thou off those piston tops on the side where the contact is overe the pins.

But its not a big deal.
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Johnnycheese


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posted August 15, 2009 04:19 AM        
looks good now throw some boost on it
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entropy


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posted August 15, 2009 04:56 AM        Edited By: entropy on 15 Aug 2009 12:57
quote:
Looks good Karl.

The piston to head contact over the pins, mostly #2 left side, concerns me thou. Thats not from piston rock. The light contact front and rear between the valves isnt a problem, but I'd take a couple of thou off those piston tops on the side where the contact is overe the pins.

But its not a big deal.


Good idea, Jim.

I always see that spot, i'll dremel off a lil.

JC,
no boost for me, I have enough issues NA

Tim,
what is an "air-tight piston crown"?
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Y2KZX12R


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posted August 15, 2009 05:17 AM        
quote:

Tim,
what is an "air-tight piston crown"?


Um, one without a drain hole in the center!!
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entropy


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posted August 15, 2009 05:32 AM        
quote:
quote:

Tim,
what is an "air-tight piston crown"?


Um, one without a drain hole in the center!!


ahhh, now i get it; i hadn't had my coffee, dumb-ass me.

I am loving the way my pistons, valves, plugs look after running at Loring w/AF = 12.2, yup.

Today, i'll bring my head to Andy, have him sink the seats .010" or so; give me a bit more hp for the Texas Mile.

What I oughta do is save some money, and just wheel my heap into the living room; it'll never see 222mph again
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Shane661


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posted August 15, 2009 06:43 AM        
quote:
quote:
quote:

Today, i'll bring my head to Andy, have him sink the seats .010" or so; give me a bit more hp for the Texas Mile.



What do you mean by "sink the seats", Karl?

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entropy


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posted August 15, 2009 08:43 AM        
hey Shane,
my motor setup is a delicate balance of Quench, CR, PTV & cam CL's.

from many setup/dyno tests I know it responds to tight quench, hi CR, and low cam CL's.
However, low cam CL's = tight PTV, and my min spec on PTV is int=.040+/-, exh = .060"+/-.

With the Loring motor, keeping to those min PTV specs limited my cam CL's to 105/105.

102/102 has shown the best hp.
In order to get from 105/105 to 102/102 I need to increase PTV, and i'll do that by having Andy cut the seats a lil deeper, putting the valves further from the pistons.

This will decrease CR from my current 15.6 to about 15.3-4.

BTW: when going to tight PTV, be real sure you know PTV of ALL the valves...
(that's a story in itself)
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tcchin


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posted August 15, 2009 10:13 AM        
Didn't another guy with a really fast ZX12 run something like .048" EX PTV and still have it survive a recent LSR event without incident?
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entropy


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posted August 15, 2009 10:29 AM        
quote:
Didn't another guy with a really fast ZX12 run something like .048" EX PTV and still have it survive a recent LSR event without incident?


yes he did!

I did put "+/-" after my min specs, but i sure don't advise anyone to go that tight without knowing their motors well
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tcchin


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posted August 15, 2009 11:06 AM        
And that gentleman certainly knows his motor well.
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tcchin


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posted August 15, 2009 09:23 PM        
Hey Karl - one more thing you may want to consider is having an oil analysis done to make sure the fat AFR isn't causing fuel dilution in your oil. If it is, then you may have to lean your AFR out a little to make sure you don't scuff up your cylinders. (I'm leaning toward oil dilution as the cause of my recent cylinder modifications.) Sucks when you have to choose between sacrificing pistons, valves and cylinders, eh?
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entropy


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posted August 15, 2009 09:39 PM        
quote:
Hey Karl - one more thing you may want to consider is having an oil analysis done to make sure the fat AFR isn't causing fuel dilution in your oil. If it is, then you may have to lean your AFR out a little to make sure you don't scuff up your cylinders. (I'm leaning toward oil dilution as the cause of my recent cylinder modifications.) Sucks when you have to choose between sacrificing pistons, valves and cylinders, eh?


Tim,
good point, too bad i just dumped my oil in Andy's recycling pool.

I'll do it after Texas Mile.
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chavcat


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posted August 16, 2009 03:16 AM        
Karl - is that a 'dent' in the top of # 2 piston (on the (R) side of the crown)?
Looks pretty good to me however I really know nothing!

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entropy


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posted August 16, 2009 05:18 AM        
Mike,
I don't see what you are seeing??? There is a lil divot at about 3:30 on the quench ring where my dremel hit while smoothing the sharp edges.

However, on the L side, 9pm in the pic, the quench ring is tapping the head just a tad
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psycho1122


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posted August 16, 2009 05:49 AM        
I get some fuel dilution @ 12.7:1. I just change the oil after 5-700 miles or so.
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entropy


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posted August 16, 2009 08:38 AM        
quote:
I get some fuel dilution @ 12.7:1. I just change the oil after 5-700 miles or so.


Shawn,
good talking to you this morning.

TimChin,
Shawn has done oil analysis on suspected fuel diluted oil.
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chavcat


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posted August 16, 2009 08:42 AM        
Karl - yes this is the mark at ~ 3:30 and 9. These have not caused any problem?
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entropy


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posted August 16, 2009 09:02 AM        
the lil mark at 3:30 is dremel tool mark

the shiny strip at 9pm is the piston hitting the head. Rod bearings look fine, so for the moment i am not going to open up quench to prevent the "kissing". .031" quench is right where i want it.
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aliveagain


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posted August 16, 2009 01:19 PM        
Wow,I can't believe all that real estate between the cylinders! I probably have half that.
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VincentHill


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posted August 16, 2009 06:08 PM        
How do the "Underside" of the Pistons Look?

To me, that tells a little more.
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NOX


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posted August 16, 2009 06:37 PM        
Karl, it looks like crap, and I think you should throw it out, the whole thing. Just leave it in the alley, and I will pick it up...........lol
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dougmeyer


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posted August 16, 2009 09:24 PM        
I love it. But, I agree with Jim. Let's skim those pistons just a bit. No carbon is perfect, but contact eats hp.
I don't really have any concern about gas in the oil. Alcohol yes, gasoline no.You'd have to be pouring gas in there and washing down the cylinders to to have a problem. It's a non-issue as far as I'm concerned. Until we get some BSFC #'s to plan a direction, we do what works and the gas worked.
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entropy


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posted August 16, 2009 11:12 PM        
quote:
How do the "Underside" of the Pistons Look?

To me, that tells a little more.


Vince,
I dunno what you would be looking for on the underside, but they are pristene, no discoloration.
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