whatwasthat
Parking Attendant
Posts: 15
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posted August 27, 2003 06:57 AM
Synthetic Oil
What is your take on Mobil 1 Cycle oil being used in a ZX12R. I have heard that it is too slippery for the application. I thought this is insane. So I put it in anyway. After practicing some launches I discovered that my clutch was toast--Oil vs. Launches-Opinions.
Follow up:
I have ordered a Muzzy replacement clutch and will be using petro based oils again.
http://www.muzzys.com/MZ12-CK/index.html
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your car is slow
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posted August 27, 2003 07:05 AM
which oil did you put in it?
MX4T wont hurt your clutch....Regular car synthetic below 15-50 will cause issues.
However it sounds to me like you went out and did a bunch of launches over and over...and regardless of what kinda oil you had in there...you will destroy your clutch every time.
20min cooldown between hard launches is a must 
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ScaredyCat
Expert Class
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posted August 27, 2003 07:08 AM
WWT,
Long story dude.
If it was Mibil1 motorcycle oil you put in, you just had bad luck, It's one of the best around.
If you put in normal Mobil 1, you probably fucked your plates 'cos the molybdebum disulphide friction modifiers got attached to your plates, wouldn't let go, and you clutch-slipped your way to a toasted clutch.
CAR OIL does not equal BIKE OIL. Even if you put it in only once.
Fully synth car oil is even slipperier - but it doesn't have to be the media in a wet clutch - cars have dry clutches.
If you did put in proper MOTORcycle oil, 4 stroke, you were just very unlucky (or slip the clutch too much!)
IMHO.
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If it ain't broke, BREAK IT.
 
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whatwasthat
Parking Attendant
Posts: 15
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posted August 27, 2003 08:04 AM
It was the MX4T, not car oil.
What about the Muzzy clutch, is there any thoughts on my new clutch (besides cooling time)?
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your car is slow
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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted August 27, 2003 08:26 AM
hub and basket...and thicker 2.0mm steel plates are a must if you are going to abuse the clutch.
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TurboBlew
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posted August 27, 2003 10:40 AM
Scaredy... BULL SHIT.
Ive got over 35,000+ miles on ZX12s with Mobil 1 CAR oil. Sorry, not one single issue is related to the oil.. PERIOD.
You cant dry hop or do ProStock style burnouts with a ZX12 clutch without frying plates. Thats a given. And as YCIS stated... cool down is necessary. Try some heavy springs and more oil to the pack. At least tip the bike on the clutch side before a burnout so the plates will be soaked some.
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samzx12
Parking Attendant
Posts: 26
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posted August 27, 2003 11:11 AM
This has been covered in detail on LaBusas. Regular Mobil car synthetic will NOT hurt your clutch. I switched to this and have not had one problem. Turbo Blew knows what he is talking about.
Sam
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jonwright
Needs a job
Posts: 2416
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posted August 27, 2003 11:54 AM
In the last two SportRider magazines there were very detailed articles on motor oil. Last issue had labratory tests and all.
Lab tests show that the motorcycle oils were indeed different than the car oils (Mobil was an example)
BUT
They did not offer any tests on what the effects might be, however.
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TurboBlew
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posted August 27, 2003 01:25 PM
True Jon... they are different.... but not signifcantly enough to matter (for non-energy conserving oils)
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slug
Pro
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Posts: 1433
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posted August 27, 2003 02:28 PM
43000 miles on stock cluth on mine, which supposedly has a 6000-mile lifetime clutch.
using mobil1 synth for year now, and rightnow it has castrol GTX dino in it
always 15-50 or 20-50 though, no energy conserving labels allowed ;P
GRANTED it is only a 600, but still the day i bought my bike i was told by someone who 'knew all about them' that the oem clutch was only good for 5-6k.
granted...i dont do a lot of burnouts (count them, one) and dont drag race it, but still ;P
as for the sportrider oil comparison, the small difference between the mx4t and the mobil-1 car seems to me to be insignificant. NOT worth 4 more dollars a quart. if it was going to ruin my clutch it woulda done so a long time ago
 
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wannabe
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted August 27, 2003 09:26 PM
I use Mobil 1 synthetic CAR oil in mine. I've put in a gazzilion launches at the strip, and no clutch problems. Yes, cooldown is a must.
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TurboBlew
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posted August 27, 2003 10:00 PM
 Edited By: TurboBlew on 27 Aug 2003 23:02
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your car is slow
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Fuck Nitrous...Got Boost?
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posted August 28, 2003 05:40 AM
The magazine only tested Car oils below 15weight....which contain all the bad shit (Energy conserving).
Had it tested 15w50....you would have seen the results nearly identical to MX4T
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Zx23rr
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Mahogany Bomber Pilot
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posted August 28, 2003 08:20 AM
The only BAD shit could be the Moly. Kawasaki has always recommended any oil of SG Grade and no higher. That i believe is to do with the clutch and transmission. IMHO. I have decided to run Chevron Delo 400. It's only about 3 buck - CDN a litre, includes a SG rating, and if it is good enough for all the big diesel engines out there where soot/contamination is a major concern, plus large engine loads, I think it will be a good if not a great product for our application.
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Delo® 400 Multigrade Heavy Duty Motor Oil 15W-40 Performance
First oil to allow the diesel engines of the three leading U.S. manufacturers to run for over 1,000,000 miles without an overhaul.
It exceeds the tougher performance standards for the new API CH-4 service classification of modern, electronically controlled, low-emission engines.
It exceeds the performance requirements of the Mack EO-M Plus, Cummins CES 20076 and Volvo VDS-2 specifications.
Its exclusive ISODEWAXING technology rivals synthetics in critical engine tests.
It offers an optimal blend of dispersants, detergents, oxidation inhibitors, antiwear, corrosion inhibitors, viscosity improvers and defoaming additives.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Zx23rr
Expert Class
Mahogany Bomber Pilot
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posted August 28, 2003 08:24 AM
fyi, on the bottle it's label has the SG rating, but not on the chevron site.
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redelk
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posted August 28, 2003 08:12 PM
MX4T went in as soon as we uncrated the bike. 46,000 miles later... I'm still using the original steels and fiber clutch plates. Of course, I don't do any hard launches. Actually, I don't use my clutch except to get started and half of my downshifts.
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hotrodninja
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posted August 29, 2003 04:24 AM
I use MX4T, and I have over 150 launches on the current clutch. No back to back launches though, just a couple of those and it's toast. I allow at least 15 minutes between runs (unless I'm being rushed into the final)
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oldkawboy
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posted August 29, 2003 05:09 AM
I've always used Castrol GTX 20/50 in my '78 KZ1000 that I bought new. Now I'm talking an air cooled bike that has honestly hundreds of dragstrip passes on it over the last 25 years and has survived numerous trips to Bike Week with stop & go traffic. It's been a 1075 and now it's a 1105 and never have had an oil related problem.
I've kept the oil changed and use a Lockhart oil cooler, but that's it. It's a heavy bike and I still abuse it by flogging it at the strip (7-teens at the 100+ in the 1/8th)and I still have the original clutch.
Sometimes I think we worry too much about the right/wrong oils for our bikes. For the record I use Motul 5100 synthetic blend in my 12 but I've been thinking........
Dan
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Ninjaman12R
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posted August 29, 2003 05:29 AM
Edited By: Ninjaman12R on 29 Aug 2003 13:21
good thread
Very interesting thread fellas. I started using Belray EXS synthetic oil after my 12 had 1000 miles on the clock. 12,000 miles later she still runs great, but $9 a qt. is a bit pricey. I've thought about changing to a cheaper synthetic, but am scared that it might be a bad move.
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ballisticzx12r
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posted August 29, 2003 05:41 AM
I use the expensive fucking blue shit, what ever it is.
Bart
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jonwright
Needs a job
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posted August 29, 2003 11:52 AM
quote:
I use the expensive fucking blue shit, what ever it is.
Bart
Thanks for the informed, clear, and technically accurate post, Barto.
Very informative. 
Think I could call my dealer and say "You know, that expensive fucking blue shit that Bartina runs in his 12," they'd know what I was talking about?
Even if I said it R E A L L Y S L O W ?
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ScaredyCat
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posted September 01, 2003 04:04 AM
TurboBlew - OK fair comment - OK I never checked on the Mobil1 car oil - but the ones with friction modifiers are to be avoided like the plague. I think that's why Kawasaki states that certain grades are acceptable (grades, not weights), with the exception of a few which have the BAD SHIT in them. The exceptions are good for cars though.
And Bart, I always used to use the expensive RED shit (Silkolene Pro 4 Racing), 'cos it looked like you could drink it.... seriously. And it WAS good!
Hehehe... maybe they should make oil that pours like beer... I'd buy it.
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stkehler
Parking Attendant
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posted October 26, 2003 05:11 PM
synthetic oil
My dealer told me yesterday. "No synthetic, car or motorcycle." Unless I want to constantly replace clutches
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TurboBlew
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posted October 26, 2003 05:19 PM
Your dealer is an idiot with a capital "I" stkehler and if I were you I would not patronize that dealer anymore.
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MadMike
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posted October 26, 2003 05:52 PM
I believe it really depends on what you are doing?? I use Kendall GT1 20-50 in my 12 and it works fine. and I am not changing! if I have any advice for anyone. if you find something that works Use it. and Oil is cheep so change it as often as you like!!!
Mad Mike
and Slug, they avg out us users! like me oh I get 200-500 miles on a clutch if I push it! LOL... so you see it is an avg...
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