deathpulse
Pro
Posts: 1688
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posted July 06, 2003 02:09 PM
Yeah, its cool to actually have an "oil expert" as a fellow '12 rider!! Thanks ScaredyCat - I'm learning TONS!
  
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Koz
Expert Class
Posts: 304
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posted July 07, 2003 05:27 AM
I posted this a couple years ago, and it is still good info.
Grade/weight of oil - Viscosity (flowability) is how to measure the shear strength of a thin layer of oil. A bearing works by using a thin layer of oil not by the oil pressure generated by the pump. If you use too high a weight oil the layer will not form fully or may not get into the bearing at all. If you use too low a weight the layer will not give the bearing the proper protection. Bottom line, make sure you stay within the manufactures recommended ranges.
Choosing the right oil - The oil companies provides "typical inspection data" to there distributors, and you get it from either. This data contains the actual physical and the common chemical properties of the oil. The most important properties to considering oil are, viscosity, viscosity index, flash point, pour point, percentage of sulfated ash, and percentage of zinc.
Multi viscosity oil is created by adding polymers (chemicals) to a base 5W, 10W, 20W. Think of a 20W - 50W as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight when hot. Keep the weight range as narrow as possible. Polymers are prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown.
Viscosity Index - The Number indicating the rate of change in viscosity within a given temperature range. The higher the number, the lower the change. The higher the number the better. Important for bearing. Approx. range 110 to 210
Flash Point - Temperature oil gives vapors that can ignite. The higher the flash point the better. Approx. range 350 to 510
Pour Point - 5 degrees F above the point chilled oil will not move in testing. The lower the pour point the better.
Approx. range -80 to -10
Percentage of Sulfated Ash - How much solid material is left when the oil burns. The lower the better. Approx. range .5 to 2
Percentage of Zinc - Amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti-wear additive. Zinc should be used when metal makes contact with metal. This should not occur. I try to stay away from any additives . High zinc content can cause deposits, and plug fouling. If used in oil .11 would be the minimum effective percentage.
The pure synthetic oil is far superior to petroleum due to much higher temp. oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temp. flow rate. I recommend Amsoil and Mobil 1, their data is among the best.
Filters - The best filter rating is about 28 microns. Too small and the filter will clog and bypass. Too large and particles 30 microns and larger can pass thru.
If you're using pure synthetic, don't waste your money changing every 2/3 thousand miles. Every 5000 miles or one year, whichever comes first, is fine. I, like Doug, change my oil just before winter storage. The pollutants from combustion, that mix in your oil, will create a corrosive environment in your engine.
Koz
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ScaredyCat
Expert Class
Posts: 201
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posted July 12, 2003 06:50 AM
Just revisited this post, and had a thought:
In some of the better "quick-service" type car places in the UK, they attach an industrial vacuum to the sump plug to *really* empty the sump. It's plobably to save time/mess, but might be a good idea to pull all of those reluctant bits of shit out of the engine?
I think they sell these wet vacuums in hardware stores now.
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If it ain't broke, BREAK IT.
 
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