psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
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posted July 13, 2007 05:07 AM
KZScott;
Right where your Thumb is holding the pusher is where you have a .040 hole cross drilled to improve oiling to the inside of the hub.
I also have the Muzzy Hub in my 12. I still did the pusher mod to help with oiling. 33,000 mi on my 1270R and still running original steels and frictions.
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You say PSYCHO like it's a BAD thing!!
  
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ZXLNT
Needs a job
Kawpuke Extraordinare
Posts: 2853
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posted July 13, 2007 06:02 AM
 Edited By: ZXLNT on 13 Jul 2007 07:50
Psycho 1 hole or 2 one on each side??
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psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
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posted July 13, 2007 06:16 AM
I had mine cross drilled (two holes opposing) at a machine shop with EDM. Just cost me a Pizza!
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You say PSYCHO like it's a BAD thing!!
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psycho1122
Pro
Posts: 1608
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posted July 13, 2007 06:18 AM
That's pSycho..... 
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You say PSYCHO like it's a BAD thing!!
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ZXLNT
Needs a job
Kawpuke Extraordinare
Posts: 2853
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posted July 13, 2007 06:50 AM
I know how to speel I just cant type
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dougmeyer
Needs a job
moderated
Posts: 2713
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posted July 13, 2007 01:07 PM
The preferred steels are 2.0mm thick
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Wolf Racing
Expert Class
Posts: 138
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posted July 13, 2007 04:04 PM
Hi,
Just for info,
We had two stock baskets turn to confetti. When we went just over 180rwhp, bang. Both on the change from 1st to 2nd. One punched a hole in the cover. Gave me ass pucker as the oil went to the wheel!!!
Our best results with the standard clutch were to get rid on the rattle springs and thin fiber. Replace with a larger fiber like the rest of the pack.
If you like to tinker a bit, check the actuator arm after each pass. Especially if you are grabbing the clutch at the end of the pass at high wheel speed. Any marks, then the puller rod head should be checked.
If the puller rod head hasn't got a "square" back to the head, it needs changing or it will start to wear the actuator groove edges.
Keep checking the basket near the rivetts. I've seen plenty of baskets start to crack there after a lot of hard use.
If you are a miser and don't like maintenance, not pulling the clutch in at high wheel speed helps somewhat. Wash of the speed, less stress on the actuator arm. Burnouts are harder to that, but we got a few 12 riders here to ride out on the burnout instaed of clutching. That dropped the wheel speed before the cltuch is pulled. It did improve wear a bit.
Wolf
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted July 13, 2007 07:48 PM
quote:
That Litle Notch on the Sleeve is what Muzzy does after they Drill the hole all of the way through!
You may be sqeezing the Caliper too hard and getting the thinner reading or you may have lost material, but my bet is the "USAGE" of the Caliper
Put up a Pic of this Billet basket you are getting
you would be correct yet again! (no suprise) it was the usage of the caliper lol
i started measuring all of them trying to get it to read 2.0 and finally figured it out.....
these pics are of the EXACT SAME steel.....
i guess that answers that question lol
no question this was worn out....
it just has to be hard to pull on a round oiled piece of metal compared to a square one....
couldnt get the correct puller. all i could get was one for the 00 (i have an 01) which is a different part number, but i think its just because its smaller in the center, the 01-05 have the same part numbers and are the same diameter the whole length (beefed up a tiny bit maybe?)
Im getting the MTC basket mr cheese has
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted July 13, 2007 08:59 PM
broke(-$$) again.....LOL
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted July 13, 2007 11:53 PM
You see that Hole inside the basket in your Pic right at the edge on the right side right near the Bottom?? That is where you need to use the 1/4 inch Diameter Punch with a rounded short tapered end! Drive the pundh through that hole and it will remove the spring tension on the split clutch gear and make is a lor easier to put together.
Make sure you put the tapered washer behind it with the taper facing the bearing in the case!
Make sure you put the Pump Gear on in the correct position becasue if wrong, the Oil Pump will not work!
Do not ask me why I would warn you of these things!!
Remember, "Experience is ALWAYS Something you get immediately after you need it!" (As my Dad always said to me!
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted July 14, 2007 11:11 AM
thx agan VH! i really appreciate getting to use part of someone elses expirience!
i really like your dads quote too, i may start using it
i measured my frictions and steels, heres what i got, i think its fairly accurate, but i may still be using the caliper a little wierd....
3.23
1.97
3.15
2.00
3.16
2.01
3.21
2.00
3.08
2.00
3.15
2.00
3.17
2.00
3.15
1.97
3.09
2.00
3.16
1.96
3.10
total = 54.56 = TOO LOW according to the manual i have on my comp, no wonder it broke....
you guys probly know this stuff by heart, but ill post it anyway...
frictions should be 3.22-3.38 and the service limit is 3.0
stack height should be 56.8-57.6
i could add another steel and it wouldnt be in spec even though the frictions arent worn down to the limit yet.... how should i fix this? add another friction to the stack? that would bring it into spec.... my buddy has a bunch of extra ones (used but good) i could just add it for the next race, and when they wear down closer to the service limit i could get a new set then....
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted July 14, 2007 03:33 PM
The reason I KNEW Your stack was too low is I did the EXACT Same thing! The Muzzy does it sooner because it has 1 plate less and starts near the Low number.
Remember I said that you needed a couple of 1.4 to add in? 1.4 + 1.4 = 2.8 + 54.56 = 57.36 at the High end of the stack! Add then toward the Inner basket where there is more heat! 2.0 + a 1.4 in 2 places! Use the clutch frictions until they wear out!
ALso get 2 of the 1.6 also!
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KZScott
Needs a life
high on speed
Posts: 7235
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posted July 14, 2007 05:07 PM
so the muzzy steels are 2.0 and stock are either 1.4 or 1.6? does it really matter if i add a friction or steel as long as it brings the height into spec? or is adding a friction a bad thing?
also why is there a smaller friction in there? im thinking i should replace it like mentioned with a "regular" (match the rest of them) one
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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VincentHill
Needs a life
Posts: 6520
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posted July 15, 2007 05:38 AM
YEP, get rid of the small steel when the CLutch went in to begin with! I Hope the Circular spring is not there also and the small clutch plate as well? Makes no difference or Less if you have 2 steels together, Just a little more heat dissapation
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