aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted January 29, 2005 08:36 PM
won't start
Just replaced the fuel pump with a Muzzy one along with their dry shot and now it won't start.Any ideas on what to check?Turns over fine.
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TurboBlew
Moderator
BUSY DOING THE SCHIAVO
Posts: 4590
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posted January 29, 2005 09:32 PM
Are you getting fuel to the injectors?
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ZXLNT
Needs a job
Kawpuke Extraordinare
Posts: 2853
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posted January 30, 2005 12:38 AM
Any ECU codes?? Check fuel and spark. Fuel pump making noise when you turn the key on???
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted January 30, 2005 07:37 AM
CECK ALL WIRES AND FUSES.
check fuel 
if all else fail replace the old pump.
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VincentHill
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posted January 30, 2005 08:09 AM
 Edited By: VincentHill on 30 Jan 2005 08:12
I also replaced my stock fuel pump with a Muzzy Pump. I was extremely careful to handle the ends of the wire to look factory and made sure the correct wire went on the correct terminal. Everything worked "PERFECTLY"!
#1, When you turn the key on, do you hear the pump run and cycle in "3" Seconds!
#2, did you put the correct lines on the correct outlet lines (Blue on the Curved tube from the pump and red on the fuel tank return line.
#3, and maybe the most important one, Remember I had the same problem in October? It was simply the fact that the way I had the fuel lines routed, they got pinched when I let the tank down.
So carefully watch the fuel lines and make sure the springs are coiled in place so that when the tank comes down everything will work!
Just raise the tank and see if your problems all go away!(In other words raise the tank and try to start the Bike Then you will know!)
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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aliveagain
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posted January 30, 2005 01:41 PM
I can hear the pump come on,lines are correct and it won't start even with the tank in the upright position.I cracked myself up because I almost forgot to fill it back up with gas.All wires connected and correct.Vin I looked and I can't see where the fuel lines would even pinch.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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osti33
Needs a job
Posts: 2973
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posted January 30, 2005 01:49 PM
Edited By: osti33 on 30 Jan 2005 13:51
Pull the fuel line off at the throttle bodies, hold the open end of the line in a can or a bucket, turn the key on and see if fuel comes out. The pump should run and fuel should come out. If it does you know you are getting fuel to that point and you can start checking other things.
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted January 30, 2005 01:57 PM
The fuel line routing is crucial. Right where the lines go under the frame is especially important: if those lines aren't free to glide in the track created by the seat tray, they can pinch as the tank is lowered. When I bought my 2nd 12r this summer, I lifted the tank and found that the shop that had worked on the bike had misrouted the return line and actually put the line ON TOP of the frame..... which caused it to pinch right off.... and make for a really rich mixture.
You might consider taking off the fuel feed hose, installing a length of tubing on the tank fitting and then running the pump.....if fuel comes out, check for pressure by putting your thumb over the end of the hose.....this is not the best way to test, but is a reasonable way to find out if your pump puts out any pressure at all. It is possible that you are losing pressure inside the tank....possibly due to incorrect installation (I'm just playing devil's advocate). I have seen pumps installed with the outlet fitting improperly mounted and leaking....which bleeds pressure and won't even let the injectors do their thing.
Beyond a lack of pressure you need to look at injector pulses and spark.
The thing is: what is the one thing you've changed? The fuel pump.....so go back and double check your work. If you do have to go into the tank, see if you can read the Walbro pump # and post it.
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted January 31, 2005 07:25 PM
No spark
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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canadamaxxer
Pro
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posted January 31, 2005 07:52 PM
well...isn't that interesting??? Do you have a manual???
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ninja12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted January 31, 2005 08:35 PM
Check the harness on the left side under the ram cover.
Don't remember which wires but i had a simular problem .
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aliveagain
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posted February 01, 2005 03:51 AM
Yes I have a manual and will check all the connectors on the left side.Ignition fuse was good and no fault codes.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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canadamaxxer
Pro
Posts: 1090
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posted February 01, 2005 08:15 AM
Edited By: canadamaxxer on 1 Feb 2005 08:16
If you disconnect one of the coil connectors, and then probe for power (red wire on 00 and 01) with a test light, you should be able to determine if you have power all the way to the coils. If there's no power, trace backwards to the 10A ignition fuse. Then if you have power, jumper from the power wire to the ground signal wire (the other wire) with your test light and crank the engine, by doing this you can determine if the signal is being toggled (the test light will flash when the engine is cranked....and make sure that your battery is fully charged).
If the test light does not flash, then it is possibly a control issue and you will have to start determining why (check your cam and crank sensor connectors to ensure they are properly connected). Check the larger connectors (approx 8 wires each) that the cam and cranks sensors plug into (along with the TPS), but I suspect they are fine (no codes set, right?) along with the connector for the coils and side stand switch (check power power and signal toggling there as wel....l just in case of a loose terminal pin). I would also take a good look at the harness under the tank. I have seen chafed wires in that area...and god only knows what the symptoms will be for that.
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aliveagain
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posted February 01, 2005 11:20 AM
After charging the battery for several hours,I reconnected it to the bike and the engine would barely turn over.I called the dealer and had them put one on charge and I'll get it tomorrow.It's the original battery on a year 2000.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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osti33
Needs a job
Posts: 2973
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posted February 01, 2005 01:30 PM
quote:
After charging the battery for several hours,I reconnected it to the bike and the engine would barely turn over.I called the dealer and had them put one on charge and I'll get it tomorrow.It's the original battery on a year 2000.
My guess is that will fix your no spark problem.
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VincentHill
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posted February 02, 2005 03:09 PM
You said it was turning over fine and most likely ran the battery down. You do have a small battery charger? I cannot think of anything bear the tank (Except the main ECU >Lines)  that you could have touched!
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted February 02, 2005 03:53 PM
I just replaced the battery with no luck.Had to go back in to work for some OT and will look at it later.You're right Vin,the first time I tried it,it spun ok.Thought maybe it needed to be purged.What I did touch was the starter button wires and also the connectors on the left side while doing the emissions mod.I wasgoing to lean the mixture on the PCIII by lowering the setting 2 bars on each button but it won't go into manual mode.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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VincentHill
Needs a life
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posted February 03, 2005 07:36 AM
Are you sure that you did not switch the TPS and the Air pressure sensor wiring> If your TPS has a Gray Plug on it, that is what you did
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aliveagain
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posted February 03, 2005 11:44 AM
I'll check
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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aliveagain
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Posts: 5033
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posted February 03, 2005 07:41 PM
Plugs are good.I just checked the spark with the new battery and we're good there.Pulled the tank and then the pump,pump hose(internal)on tight.Computer crashed tonite so I didn't get any further but tomorrow I'll get another hose and test for pump output.Ifthat works out I would have to think it's the PC or the ecu,no?
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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VincentHill
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posted February 04, 2005 08:12 AM
Before I pulled the pump and tank, I would have removed the return fuel line with the tank propped up and with a cup I would have put the return fuel line into the cup and see if it pumped out the required "3" ounces in "3" seconds (The amount of time the pump cycles when you turn on the Key).
Then if this did not happen, I would go farther. I really do not feel that the Pump is the problem unless you wired it wrong (Switched Wires) look at the instruction and note which wire goes to ground and which wire is the "Blue Wire". Remember "KISS" (Keep it Simple Stupid!) Theory
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aliveagain
Needs a life
Posts: 5033
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posted February 04, 2005 10:11 AM
The first thing I did when the pump came off was look at the wiring.Negative marking right on the pump and the wire went to the pump frame.Thanx for the help,but aren't you opening yourself up with that last remark,KISS theory?
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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VincentHill
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posted February 04, 2005 11:16 AM
 Touche!! (Only for "Fixing" Problem) Not for Creating them
Actually "WHEN" (If ever) I get finished, it will be fairly simple AND Resolve some normal NOS Problems.
You still need to do the test even when finished on the Pump for the 3 seconds cycle!
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Made History @ Daytona and still one fast old man!!
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aliveagain
Needs a life
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posted February 04, 2005 02:47 PM
Well I just tested the pump and it's working although I didn't have anything to measure it by.(had the return line pump into a catch can and turned the ignition on)So I have fuel and spark.That leaves the ECU or the PCIII and connectors for the injectors.Tomorrow I'll unplug the PCIII and see what happens.
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I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger. Then it hit me.
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Five 0
Expert Class
Posts: 215
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posted February 04, 2005 03:01 PM
Did you get me PM about the grey wire in the key switch??
5-0
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