tundra tom
Novice Class
Posts: 68
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posted September 03, 2007 06:31 PM
Tried removing the Louver scoop on the Left side. The heat just wrapped around the trailing edge of the Fairing and was hotter than the right side. When the fans came on at a stop again the non-scoop side was far worse. I wanted to try it but i figured Kawi put those on the final design to control heat on the rider.
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"When my time has come, I prefer to be in the Saddle rather than the Recliner"
  
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fish_antlers
Administrator
The Truth is Out There
Posts: 21894
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posted September 03, 2007 07:59 PM
hmmm....
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What business is it of yours where I'm from, Friendo?
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TedG
Moderator
Posts: 8222
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posted September 05, 2007 07:39 AM
These guys are saying that the C14 is cooking them.
http://www.concours.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34766
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daysoffIride
Novice Class
Posts: 77
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posted September 05, 2007 07:37 PM
OK, So If I somehow get the emissions stuff to disappear, what happens during my emissions test in 2 years? Am I fu***d?
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daysoffIride
Novice Class
Posts: 77
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posted September 05, 2007 07:39 PM
quote:
quote:
I would be happy to explain.
1. Remove R/H faring as fish explained.
2, Remove strap from square charcoal canister.
3 . Remove 6mm bolt from evaporator valve (round thingy with a bunch of hoses coming out of it).
4. Remove all hoses from the valve and canister and get the valve and cannister out of the way.
5, Remove the red hose from the tank( under the seat) and cap it off at the tank. IMPORTANT, You must cap it off so it does not leak. You can then pull that hose out.
6. Reroute the blue hose from the tank so it can drain to the bottom of the bike. I believe that should have a little bottle on the end. We need to check the parts book.
7. You have hoses connected to #2, #3, #4 injectors and they need to be plugged. I left them on because it will make it much easier to hookup the synchronization gauges.
8. Reroute the plugged hoses to they don't rub and put it back together.
The parts only weigh a couple of pounds.
Hope this helps.
By the way it does this mysteriously all by itself.
Sweet!! I'm also looking forward to the mysterious disappearance of these components! Thank you!
What now happens during an emissions test................. Let me know, Here in AZ we need them every 2 years!!!!!
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daysoffIride
Novice Class
Posts: 77
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posted September 05, 2007 07:39 PM
quote:
quote:
I would be happy to explain.
1. Remove R/H faring as fish explained.
2, Remove strap from square charcoal canister.
3 . Remove 6mm bolt from evaporator valve (round thingy with a bunch of hoses coming out of it).
4. Remove all hoses from the valve and canister and get the valve and cannister out of the way.
5, Remove the red hose from the tank( under the seat) and cap it off at the tank. IMPORTANT, You must cap it off so it does not leak. You can then pull that hose out.
6. Reroute the blue hose from the tank so it can drain to the bottom of the bike. I believe that should have a little bottle on the end. We need to check the parts book.
7. You have hoses connected to #2, #3, #4 injectors and they need to be plugged. I left them on because it will make it much easier to hookup the synchronization gauges.
8. Reroute the plugged hoses to they don't rub and put it back together.
The parts only weigh a couple of pounds.
Hope this helps.
By the way it does this mysteriously all by itself.
Sweet!! I'm also looking forward to the mysterious disappearance of these components! Thank you!
What now happens during an emissions test................. Let me know, Here in AZ we need them every 2 years!!!!!
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tundra tom
Novice Class
Posts: 68
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posted September 05, 2007 08:16 PM
quote:
OK, So If I somehow get the emissions stuff to disappear, what happens during my emissions test in 2 years? Am I fu***d?
Ummmm...would it make your ankles cooler? 
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"When my time has come, I prefer to be in the Saddle rather than the Recliner"
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tundra tom
Novice Class
Posts: 68
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posted September 06, 2007 06:48 PM
Called Baker air wings regarding the C-14. They said others have called allready and a small wing for the lowers is in developement. I mentioned it should be no larger than 6" long and black, not chrome.
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"When my time has come, I prefer to be in the Saddle rather than the Recliner"
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3sacrowd
Parking Attendant
Posts: 9
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posted September 06, 2007 07:13 PM
 Edited By: 3sacrowd on 6 Sep 2007 20:19
"What now happens during an emissions test................. Let me know, Here in AZ we need them every 2 years!!!!!"
No, in Arizona new vehicles are exempt from testing for the first 5 years, then iti s every 2 years.
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2002 GL1800w/DFT trike kit
2008 Suzuki B King
2008 Kawasaki Concours 1499
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TedG
Moderator
Posts: 8222
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posted September 06, 2007 07:36 PM
quote:
quote:
quote:
I would be happy to explain.
1. Remove R/H faring as fish explained.
2, Remove strap from square charcoal canister.
3 . Remove 6mm bolt from evaporator valve (round thingy with a bunch of hoses coming out of it).
4. Remove all hoses from the valve and canister and get the valve and cannister out of the way.
5, Remove the red hose from the tank( under the seat) and cap it off at the tank. IMPORTANT, You must cap it off so it does not leak. You can then pull that hose out.
6. Reroute the blue hose from the tank so it can drain to the bottom of the bike. I believe that should have a little bottle on the end. We need to check the parts book.
7. You have hoses connected to #2, #3, #4 injectors and they need to be plugged. I left them on because it will make it much easier to hookup the synchronization gauges.
8. Reroute the plugged hoses to they don't rub and put it back together.
The parts only weigh a couple of pounds.
Hope this helps.
By the way it does this mysteriously all by itself.
Sweet!! I'm also looking forward to the mysterious disappearance of these components! Thank you!
What now happens during an emissions test................. Let me know, Here in AZ we need them every 2 years!!!!!
Nothing, that is for evaporating gas fumes. Anyway I don't think AZ bikes even have that system.
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Ted
2000 Green ZX12 sold
The fast color!!
Green 2005 ZX10R
2009 Concours Black ABS
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Ninjaman12R
Needs a job
as a Deal's Gap tour guide.
Posts: 4767
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posted September 09, 2007 08:02 AM
Man I'd really like to know just how bad this heat issue is. I am seriously considering this bike, but with the heat and humidity here I am going to hold back until this shakes out. I've just recently seriously considered getting this bike, so I've got a lot of homework to do. I love my 10R, but it sits and collects dust most of the time. I want something that I can get out and do some miles on. Like I did back in the old days. 
TedG you've got a 10R, had a 12R, and now the C14. I'd really like to hear your overall thoughts of the bike. (probably posted here somewhere) I have no doubt that I could live with the bike tooling along in a straight line, but is it entertaining in the twisties at all??? How does it compare to the 12R as far as handling goes?
I'm way behind on this, so I gotta get to reading. I don't even know what these things are selling for. LOL
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What we're dealin' with here is a complete lack of respect for the law.
Sheriff Buford T. Justice of TEXAS
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TedG
Moderator
Posts: 8222
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posted September 09, 2007 09:10 AM
Edited By: TedG on 10 Sep 2007 08:59
Ninjaman,
Lets get the heat thing out of the way, My 10 is hotter. I fixed the foam like fish said and it if just fine.
Now for the bike,
When you first pick the bike off the stand you go this thing is heavy, and as soon as you get going 5mph the thing goes light on you. It is not a 10R or a 12, But this thing rocks in the corners. There is a spot that I like to do a comparison, A sharp downhill R/H, a short uphill straight, then another sharp uphill left. I can look at the speed I can achieve before that last left. On my 12 I could hit an indicated 122, On the 10 I could hit 130, On th C14 118, And the speedo on the 14 is not as inaccurate.
The bike is a joy to ride through the twisties. It will absolutely tear up a road. The extra torque down low makes it deceivingly fast. To go fast you do have to shift more than the 10 because the lower gears are not as long winded. But the shaft is un-noticeable, as good as a chain and no driveline lash. Here is the good part, when the road straightens out the thing is so smooth there are time you can't feel it run, The seat is good and the riding position is perfect. I have put on 7200 miles so far, and all I want to do is find a point on the map and just go there. Doesn't matter is if the road twists or not.
Now It is so nice to have saddle bags, I can carry a warmer gear, a clear shield and loads of other stuff.
The bike is a sport bike underneath all those farings.
You know I loved my 12 and love my 10, but this thing is the best balanced bike I have ever ridden and the best bike I have ever ridden, Like Kerry said, this bike just feels right.
Oh yeah it is brutally fast in 3rd.
And to answer your question about how it handles compared to the 12, It turns in easier, about as stable, slightly slower out of a corner but not bad. But you can actually make up time because of the slipper clutch, the rear wheel isn't dancing around.
You got to go ride one.
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Ted
2000 Green ZX12 sold
The fast color!!
Green 2005 ZX10R
2009 Concours Black ABS
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rifleman223
Novice Class
Posts: 94
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posted September 09, 2007 05:38 PM
Does anybody think that wrapping the headers might also help keep the temps down? I am actually thinking about doing this. Any thoughts? Supposed to keep the temps down.
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donnbauer
Novice Class
Posts: 56
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posted September 10, 2007 04:57 PM
Ted G, I'm right there with you. My C14 is brutally fast both in the twisties and on the long straits. Had a guy on a R6 pass me on Chinook pass and try to teach me a lesson on cornering..... well after 45 miles he found out that I could stay with him in the corners, I could pass him on the strait aways and I was 2 up with full bags from a weekend trip. My lady was telling me to stop torturing the guy and pass him because she could tell he was gonna kill himself trying to out run us. That is SPORT Touring. With the C14 you don't have to give up blistering speed to be comfortable, I don't feel like I have had to give anything up to be able to put 13 hours in the sadle two up. Will be buying a new seat though, mine tends to slide us both forward and wear out mt tenderest of parts.
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Donn
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donnbauer
Novice Class
Posts: 56
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posted September 10, 2007 04:59 PM
Ted G, I'm right there with you. My C14 is brutally fast both in the twisties and on the long straits. Had a guy on a R6 pass me on Chinook pass and try to teach me a lesson on cornering..... well after 45 miles he found out that I could stay with him in the corners, I could pass him on the strait aways and I was 2 up with full bags from a weekend trip. My lady was telling me to stop torturing the guy and pass him because she could tell he was gonna kill himself trying to out run us. That is SPORT Touring. With the C14 you don't have to give up blistering speed to be comfortable, I don't feel like I have had to give anything up to be able to put 13 hours in the sadle two up. Will be buying a new seat though, mine tends to slide us both forward and wear out mt tenderest of parts.
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Donn
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TedG
Moderator
Posts: 8222
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posted September 10, 2007 06:57 PM
donnbauer, Is your bike cooking you or are you like me and find it no worse than any other bike I have owned?
Also I ran into couple of guys on Suzukis, one a GSXR750 and the other a GSXR1000. They were dragging their knees and looked like they were pushing it. The 750 rider was the better of the two, andI could have passed the guy on the 1000, but they slowed and waved me by. Anyway It was as day that I had the flu and felt like shit. Musta been weird for them to see nothing but saddlebags in the mirror.
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Ted
2000 Green ZX12 sold
The fast color!!
Green 2005 ZX10R
2009 Concours Black ABS
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donnbauer
Novice Class
Posts: 56
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posted September 11, 2007 05:42 PM
Ted G, I bought my bike in Las Vegas and rode it home to Seattle via Sacremento during the heat wave, 110 in Vegas and 100 in Sac, I was in full touring armour by Fieldshear and had no heat issues at all. My bike smoothed out at about 200 miles with a slight vibe at 4200 to 5000rpm , I am going to re check the torque on the moter mounts but other then that what a dream. I have had the bike since 8-21 with 4000 miles on the odometer and nothing but glorious rides 1 to 13 hours, it does not care what you ask it to do, it does it. I love showing off the 1/3 of an inch Chicken strips to the Sportos and asking them if they want to go carving. Love the fornt end off the ground 3rd gear pulls to pass...... Oh Yeah
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Donn
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tundra tom
Novice Class
Posts: 68
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posted September 14, 2007 05:41 AM
Edited By: tundra tom on 14 Sep 2007 06:44
Personally the only reason I became sensitive to the heat was due to my own ignorance of riding with shorts on during "heat mod testing" and cooking my freaking shins so bad I could feel it for weeks. (Feel free to taunt and ridicule)  .
The only time it gets mildly uncomfortable with normal cycle gear on is in temps. above 90f and in stop and go traffic. Riding to work this week at 47 degrees was fantastic, I had to shut off the electric vest a few times the protection was so good.
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"When my time has come, I prefer to be in the Saddle rather than the Recliner"
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted September 14, 2007 08:58 PM
Well, here in the 50-60 temps, my C14 is like a blast furnace. Hell, it even blasts hot air at 75+
2 fans -- twice as much heat :P
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FYYFF!!!
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TedG
Moderator
Posts: 8222
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posted September 15, 2007 06:01 PM
I was riding in 50, 60, 70, and 80 degree temp today and mine ran cool in the 50 and 60s my legs were almost cold. Your foam is not correct. There is a zip tie missing and you need to remove the middle faring and make sure the foam completely seals. One tiny leak and it will blow hot air on your legs and heat the farings.
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Ted
2000 Green ZX12 sold
The fast color!!
Green 2005 ZX10R
2009 Concours Black ABS
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R6Richard
Novice Class
Posts: 36
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posted September 16, 2007 04:00 PM
I've ridden two C14's, both in hot weather. The first did heat my right ankle but the second was fine. The more I ride this bike the more I like it. Don't expect to keep up with a skilled rider on a pure sport bike but it is amazing. There is no competition with bags.
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DrewHerc130
Expert Class
Posts: 140
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posted April 20, 2008 10:35 AM
Great thread guys! I was wondering about this issue prior to buying a 14. Sounds like it's under control.
Although, how long before the 2009 models appear on the showrooms? Is it likely the factory has improved on the heat disipation?
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2008 C14, flies out, Area P-Carbon, BMC, PC3, Spencer Seat Mod, Alaska Leather, Helibars with Ram GPS mount, Nuvi 250W
"Life moves pretty quick. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it."
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fury
Expert Class
Posts: 427
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posted April 24, 2008 04:18 PM
Edited By: fury on 24 Apr 2008 17:30
quote:
anyone else?
I did not read all the pages but I have a suggestion.
Install on air shifter...
THey are not just for drag racing.
They make real smooth shifts.
Your passenger wont even rec a shift.
Anyways the air comming from the air shifter can be directed for some very short term releaf.
Your exhaust is creating alot of the heat. Punch cads and a cooler ride you will have.
Hope this helped.
If this was suggested (oops)
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fury
Expert Class
Posts: 427
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posted April 24, 2008 04:23 PM
quote:
"What now happens during an emissions test................. Let me know, Here in AZ we need them every 2 years!!!!!"
No, in Arizona new vehicles are exempt from testing for the first 5 years, then iti s every 2 years.
Run a second hud and use your imagination...
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Wildman
Expert Class
I only look confused
Posts: 318
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posted April 24, 2008 06:43 PM
quote:
"What now happens during an emissions test................. Let me know, Here in AZ we need them every 2 years!!!!!"
No, in Arizona new vehicles are exempt from testing for the first 5 years, then iti s every 2 years.
If it were me, I'd keep everything I took off the bike. Then I'd make it stock again for the test. Of course, that might be slightly against the rules....
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If you build something Idiot Proof, The world will build a better Idiot.
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