BrucerZX14
Expert Class
Posts: 373
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posted June 17, 2014 11:19 AM
 Edited By: BrucerZX14 on 17 Jun 2014 19:20
Bike Won't Start w/MSD SB6
I installed my SB6 back when I put new pistons in the engine. All was good from the end of March (opening race) until this past weekend. The bike started acting up. I rode it from the trailer to the staging lanes. Shut it off. Started it back up to go into the lanes. When I got called for my time trial, bike just cranked and wouldn't fire. Pushed back to trailer. Pulled SB6 coil harness portion off. Bike fired up.
Started bike up for 2nd time trial. Rode to lanes. Shut it off twice. When I got called for my pass, the bike wouldn't start. Moved it off to the side. Tried a couple more times and suddenly it started. Made time trial pass. Went back to trailer.
Started bike several times while waiting for eliminations to start. Called for round 1. Everything is fine until I get to the staging lights. Burnout was fine. As I moved to the lights, the engine dies again. This time there's no start.
Took bike home. Pulled SB6 coil harness and crankshaft position sensor connectors and normalized the bike. Fired right up. I assumed the SB6 failed. Borrowed a friends box and the bike still wouldn't start. Tried his harness. Still no start. Every time I normalize the bike, if fires right up. Anyone got any clues as to what might be preventing the bike to start with the SB6 installed?
  
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06redzx14
Pro
Posts: 1022
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posted June 17, 2014 02:10 PM
Check voltage to sb6
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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Gunner
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted June 17, 2014 02:37 PM
Sounds like a bad connection at some point in the wiring. As a general rule MSD boxes are either good or they're bad seldom do they come and go and when they do it's most often times a wiring issue. Either way if you send it back to MSD they'll never tell you it checked bad even if it's fried! Been in this business many years and they always return them with a statement saying they found nothing wrong..
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There's no such thing as a motor with no more power to give only people with no more intelligence to get it
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MotoCycho
Expert Class
Posts: 337
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posted June 17, 2014 04:54 PM
Had similar issue a couple times with my SB6. Both times.. it was the ground. Once at the sub-frame where I screwed down the eyelet ground from it's harness. The other time it was the actual pin in the plug not making a good connect. I put a slight bend on that pin and all was well after that.
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BKnight
Parking Attendant
Posts: 20
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posted June 18, 2014 04:19 AM
Agreed with Gunner & MotoCycho. I've had 4 SB6 boxes on 3 different bikes and haven't had a single issue with any of them (I had 4 because I bought an extra to trouble shoot one bike... that wasn't the issue). I always ground them to the negative of the battery.... Matter of fact, In my opinion you should ground anything of importance to the battery (that would make the bike run or not run).
And as Gunner said, that's a good general rule.... electrical devices are generally either good or bad. I've contacted MSD about sending them a box when I thought it might of been the issue, they told me they could examine it and determine if it was good or bad but that they wouldn't be able to fix it?!? haha. Good thing it turned out to be fine.
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BrucerZX14
Expert Class
Posts: 373
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posted June 18, 2014 08:52 AM
Edited By: BrucerZX14 on 18 Jun 2014 16:53
MotoCycho - You hit it dude! After messing with it, I moved the ground to the battery and BOOM!!! It fired right up. Thx for the assist.
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MotoCycho
Expert Class
Posts: 337
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posted June 18, 2014 02:24 PM
Edited By: MotoCycho on 18 Jun 2014 22:25
quote:
MotoCycho - You hit it dude! After messing with it, I moved the ground to the battery and BOOM!!! It fired right up. Thx for the assist.
Bad assed! I found that grounding anything at the sub frame is sketchy. The sub frame is painted real good and touches the main frame at a painted location as well. When I installed the SB6 on my 14r I got a 3-5 volt loss at the sub frame so I ran a 10 gauge ground wire from the negative battery connect point on the main frame to one of the thread holes on the sub frame. This solved the grounding issue at the sub frame. Next time I had the tank off the Gen 1, I ran the same wire. Should have done that years ago.
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BrucerZX14
Expert Class
Posts: 373
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posted June 18, 2014 02:57 PM
I have a couple other things grounded to the subframe. While we're in a slow down to race, I'm gonna run a ground bus bar to the back to use. I'll move all of it to the bus bar.
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Gunner
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted June 18, 2014 08:54 PM
Yea they don't usually just come and go when it's the box that's bad. That always points to a wiring issue, I experienced ground issues when installing AutoCom systems on my 10R back in the day.. Once the ground was taken back to the battery it also cleaned up the power. Many times problems caused by dirty power can be cured by going straight to the battery ground as well. Dirty power can cause havoc on sophisticated electronics also, especially radio equipment.
When I need a good power source I'll run a heavy gauge ultra fine wires to a 5 pin relay straight from the battery and trigger the relay with a switched power source like a brake light or something easy to access. You get great power that's very clean this way without hacking into the harness and it saves you a lot of headaches down the road..
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There's no such thing as a motor with no more power to give only people with no more intelligence to get it
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northernkaw
Expert Class
Posts: 215
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posted June 20, 2014 05:43 AM
on the 06/07 zx14 there was a ground attached to the subframe. in 08 the ground moved to the mainframe. i have seen the subframe not provide a good ground.
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