Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted August 06, 2013 03:57 PM
2012 14 Alisyn Oil Report
So i been running the alisyn oil since i purchased the bike last january. The bike currently has just over 23K miles and i been runing the 0W-20 in the summer months and the <0 the rest of the year and pouring in the Petron oil additive every other oil change and changing it at around 3k. I sent a sample into Blackstone Labs for a report and here is a copy.
I plan on doing 2 more sample in order to have a trend and see if there is any change to the IRON and POTASSIUM numbers even though i was told by one of the reps that those numbers, although a little bit higher than the average, is not a cause for alarm being that there arent any other metals that are high but he did recommend couple more samples to establish a trend. I did find it kinda odd that the magnesium, phosphorus and zinc additive numbers were real low but then im not an oil guy so who knows. Also disregard the addtiional info saying "sees occasional drag strip time" i told him i went to the strip once and he mustve mistook that for "occasional" which he followed by saying the the drag racing would explain the slightly high numbers of iron
[URL=http://s75.photobucket.com/user/ls954/media/Bike/oilReport_zpsd82b9507.png.html] [/URL]
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
  
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krexken
Zone Head
Posts: 732
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posted August 07, 2013 08:20 PM
I'd be tempted to put more than 3k on that expensive oil before changing it. Be interesting to see the numbers with more miles on oil also.
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Gunner
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted August 08, 2013 01:33 AM
How many miles were on the motor before switching it over to this oil from Dino oil?
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There's no such thing as a motor with no more power to give only people with no more intelligence to get it
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Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted August 08, 2013 12:37 PM
its been on this oil since the very first oil change from the factory stuff
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
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Gunner
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted August 08, 2013 01:08 PM
I would be interested in knowing what the cylinder leakage is % wise. The reason is according to all trusted information it's not recommended switching to full synthetic oil before 3000 miles or there about because the rings are still seating up to that point. Please don't take offence this isn't me saying this just interested in whether or not there's anything to that. I can say I didn't swap either my 10R or 12R over to full synthetic until after that time and both leaked less that 1/2% at the highest and nearly 0 % on the best holes and both run very well because they are sealed up tight. The flip side to that argument is GM at one time and they may still do this, but they sold new Corvettes with Mobile 1 from the factory. Now did they have a special ring package and cylinder honing process that would allow for that? Who knows right?
I'm just always interested in things like this trying to always learn more about the facts from myth. But we have all seen motors that never sealed up worth a damn that used oil, smoked and wouldn't fall out of a tree and something caused that to happen. It would prove interesting what your leak down looked like.. But the oil report would also show blow by I would think as well. I don't understand enough about what I'm looking at on those reports to know if it was telling me something I need to know or not.
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There's no such thing as a motor with no more power to give only people with no more intelligence to get it
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Lsantana954
Expert Class
Posts: 356
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posted August 08, 2013 01:16 PM
yea ive heard about that 3000 miles thing and letting the rings sit but i think alot of that has to do with the factory recommended break-in period, I didnt follow the factory break-in period but instead had the engine broke in through couple of dyno runs the first being with 1 mile on the engine, after wards doing several high speed/RPM runs basically "ride it like you stole it" At that point i was comfortable in assuming the rings were seated nicely and did the first oil change at around 1k miles and been running the alysin oil ever since
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'12 Gully Blue ZX14
-PCV/Guhl ECU/Blue CT Meg/<0 Alyson Oil/+8 Evil Arm/+1 Rear Sprocket
'07 Acura TL-S
'87 Buick Grand National
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Gunner
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted August 08, 2013 03:44 PM
I agree with your break in method. I ride mine like they are stolen. I change the oil at 20 miles ( removes all metal that could get rubbed off parts from being freshly machined. Then I change it at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and at 3000 I switch to Motul 300V 5/40.... Then change it at around 1500 miles thereafter .. Oil is cheap so I change it often as it's the life blood of any motor.. Thanks for posting your information...
I haven't ever broken one of these in on the dyno but I'm a believer in that method. When I was working in a ProStock car motor shop we broke in every motor on the dyno and we achieved "0" Leakage on every hole. Rings are all that really ever needs any breaking in on any motor.
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There's no such thing as a motor with no more power to give only people with no more intelligence to get it
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joseph702
Zone Head
Posts: 598
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posted August 09, 2013 04:48 AM
Can't forget cars don't have coated cylenders like are bikes , They need to have the rpms and load to break the rings in or they get smoothed out and will never seal like they should . After the first few miles the dimand hone ruffness is gone.
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shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted August 09, 2013 09:47 AM
quote:
I agree with your break in method. I ride mine like they are stolen. I change the oil at 20 miles ( removes all metal that could get rubbed off parts from being freshly machined. Then I change it at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and at 3000 I switch to Motul 300V 5/40.... Then change it at around 1500 miles thereafter .. Oil is cheap so I change it often as it's the life blood of any motor.. Thanks for posting your information...
I haven't ever broken one of these in on the dyno but I'm a believer in that method. When I was working in a ProStock car motor shop we broke in every motor on the dyno and we achieved "0" Leakage on every hole. Rings are all that really ever needs any breaking in on any motor.
FYI, according to Motul 300V is strictly for racing....not made for thousands of miles although many I know have used it for a couple thousands with no reported problems. They suggest 7100 for street stuff.
A.
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Gemini Motorcycles
Topping out everything from Ninja 250s to nitrous ZX-14s.
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Gunner
Needs a life
Posts: 5778
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posted August 09, 2013 01:28 PM
I'm sure the ZERO weight stuff isn't for long term use either. I change oil, spark plugs, air filters, chains, and every other consumable part so often they are far from past their useful life. But I thank you for the education you know how us old fucks are Ship we forget where we shit last then we realize it was in our pants.
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There's no such thing as a motor with no more power to give only people with no more intelligence to get it
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