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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Best Tires for ZX-14R NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
WarriorOnTheEdge


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posted May 06, 2013 08:30 PM        Edited By: WarriorOnTheEdge on 7 May 2013 05:14
Best Tires for ZX-14R

The only recent riding experience I have is all on the ZX-14R running the standard Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S20 tires. I have run one unit for 12,000 km on the Bridgestones and I am looking to replace these soon.

My problem is that while I have no issue with the Bridgestones - I have no experience on anything else on which to base my decision.

I have had a recommendation of the Pirelli Angel ST, but I note that these are superseded by the Angel GT - so I wonder what is the difference?

Others tell me they run Michelin & Dunlop and say that they are good. There are probably a lot of great tires out there and it may come down to personal preferences in the end.

I use the motorcycle on the roads for commuting and weekend blats and also visit the track and occasionally hit the strip. In all of these conditions & uses I have had no issue with the S20s - but I wonder if I would be more or less happy with something else.
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BLK ICE


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posted May 06, 2013 09:47 PM        Edited By: BLK ICE on 7 May 2013 05:48
If you happy and having no problems, stick with Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S20 tires . Power1 tire would be a good chioce, however, they will wear out much quicker than the battlax.
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eklipse636


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posted May 07, 2013 04:11 AM        
If your just commuting, and occasional drag strip at stock wheel base, stick with a tire that has a harder compound. A really sticky tire is going to have great traction, but isn't going to last as long.
You can never go wrong with a Michelin.
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CajunBoyz


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posted May 07, 2013 04:26 AM        
We just put a set of the NEW Michilins Power 3's frt & rear. Got to honestly say, it made the bike feel BETTER then when it rolled off the floor...
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PuckDracon


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posted May 07, 2013 05:48 AM        
I am really liking the Road 2's for commuting, still stickier then the stock rubber but are lasting way longer. The 2CTs were nice too, but were wearing pretty quickly.

The Road 3's are the same thing as the 2's, just with rain channels for more wet weather riding.
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Red1


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posted May 07, 2013 06:56 AM        
Metzler M-5's!
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Lou_ZX12R


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posted May 07, 2013 01:29 PM        
quote:
Metzler M-5's!


Tires really are a preference, you should just try a few sets and decided for yourself. I prefer Pirelli line and after going through the rest on the 12r. I do have to say the m5 which are stock on the 14r have surprised me. They stick like glue and seem to last a bit too.
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fullzx12r


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posted May 07, 2013 11:11 PM        
S 20 excellent ! but 3000 kms maximum

i will pass on T 30 for WINTER , always Bridgestone !
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WarriorOnTheEdge


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posted May 08, 2013 03:47 AM        
Thanks to everyone for the comments.

I have found a place that will fit the Bridgestone S20s for 500AUD. Not the cheapest tires available - but the S20 is the closest to what I want.

I think Kawasaki chose a really good tire (S20) to put on the Australian ZX-14R ZX1400F and I really can't find any reason to go different. The "Metzeler TL Sportec M5 Interact E" was the standard tire on the ZX1400E (Europe?) - according to the owners book.

Thanks again.
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epd345


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posted May 18, 2013 05:21 PM        
I have the pilot road 3's on now. Great tires but im going back to stock metezlers m5's. the m5s stick better and they wear pretty well for a hypersport tire.. You could easily get 5k out of them.
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Vertigo99


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posted May 18, 2013 05:51 PM        
quote:
You can never go wrong with a Michelin.


+1

RIdden three seasons on Michelin Pilot Power II, a superb tire. Confidence inspiring in turns, hard wearing. Light years ahead of the stock tires. Won't use anything but Michelin on my cars either.
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mma-tv


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posted May 27, 2013 07:45 PM        
My stock metzeler tires were shot after 3000 miles and they spun easily at the dragstrip. I replaced them with Michelin pilot Power 2ct tires with a 195/55 rear for some track days and it really changed the handling. The bike turns easier and feels more stable while leaned over. It also stopped spinning at the dragstrip. I have 5350 miles on the bike now and the tires are still good, but after 3 track days I'm replacing them anyway. Going with the Pilot Power 3 this time, staying with a 55 rear. The 55 is quite a noticeable difference from a 50.
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Lou_ZX12R


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posted May 28, 2013 04:32 PM        
Has anyone tried the pirelli rosso tires yet? These are my favorite tires for the 12r.
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LeoVinceZX14


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posted May 29, 2013 01:45 PM        Edited By: LeoVinceZX14 on 29 May 2013 21:48
WarriorOnTheEdge:

I would also suggest that your suspension set up and the psi you normally run can make a big difference in the traction and performance of whatever tire you chose.

I am on my 2nd set of Metzeler M5's and have found them to be superb after I got my suspension dialed in for my riding style AND dropped the psi for better traction. Good luck with the S20's, I plan to try a set of them next tire change.
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carabuser


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posted May 29, 2013 02:24 PM        
Leovince, what pressure are you running on the M5's ? Thanks
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WarriorOnTheEdge


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posted May 29, 2013 05:21 PM        Edited By: WarriorOnTheEdge on 30 May 2013 03:29
The owners manual recommends 42 psi cold front and rear.

At the track they tend to want you to run 30 psi front and rear to maximise to contact patch on the basis that you will be "pushing it". I am not sure how good for the tire that is (long term). Also not sure how running 'under inflated' might effect the speed 'W' rating. I have run a couple of days on the track at 30-30 at speeds up to 250+ km/h and pushing moderately hard around the tighter sections and again the bike felt fine. Left the track with the tires nicely 'shredded-up' and then pumped them back up for the street.

Personally, because the ZX-14R is a heavier motorcycle @ 268 KG curb mass, I would be happier running 32 or 33 psi on the track. I figure the extra mass will squash out a decent contact patch!

I have heard that some have found that the S20s 'chop-out' on the front - but I suspect that this could be the result of repeatedly running under-inflated and pushing really hard ... in which case you may have the wrong tire! Guys I know who go racing are lucky to get two days from one set of tires - so it is horses for courses - I think.

When I picked up my 2012 from the shop they guy recommended 36 psi front and 44 psi rear and I ran my S20s at that for some time and the bike felt fine. I did a lot of two-up running in that time so I was happy to have the rear a little firm. When I checked the book and enquired about the difference the answer was that "you don't want the front 'bouncing around' ... ".

Other people I have asked seem to say "whatever the book recommends" - company line.

I can safely say that I have run my S20s from 30 up to 44 psi at high speed and through moderately hard cornering and I they have never even felt like letting go and the bike has always been rock stable. Therefore my conclusion is that for the street and maximum tire life you run at 42-42 ... by the book. If you like a softer feel then you may want to drop the front to 36 or 38 psi. If you are planning to push them hard on the track then you may want to drop them further into the low 30s.

I can't imagine that this would differ to any great degree for the Metzeler M5s.

Anyone have any other ideas?
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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted May 30, 2013 03:27 PM        
Michlin pilot power 2cts.
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LeoVinceZX14


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posted May 31, 2013 02:07 PM        Edited By: LeoVinceZX14 on 31 May 2013 22:25
carabuser:

Currently I am running 31/35 ( my summer psi) in Florida. During the spring months I run 32/36 and 34/38 in our version of winter which would at best be..fall every where else. The footnote is I run pretty firm suspension settings and the lower tire psi gives better traction at more extreme lean angles, putting down the power at WOT and a comfortable ride when you are just cruising.

The OEM 42/42 recommended might work for heavier riders and/or with the dealer "delivery" suspension settings (pretty soft), but I found them useless for both ultimate grip and feedback about whether that grip was max'ed out. All of this depends on your preferences and rider weight. I am 165 lbs, but I prefer a very firm (precise) set up with the "give" in the tires to make the bike supple on bad pavement. I normally ride with the TC switched off and have never found the M5's lacking for grip with these psi settings.

For the record, I was a bit skeptical in the past about lower psi on the street (back roads in my case), but if your suspension is set up right, tires actually last..longer as I got 5,800 from front and 6,600 miles from the rear OEM M5's (no burnouts). Set up is the key to achieve this. Hope that helps.

WarriorOnTheEdge:

Hope my 2 cents didn't hijack your original post query bro.
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carabuser


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posted May 31, 2013 06:26 PM        
Leovince, thanks helped alot ! I'm about your weight, and my suspension is setup a little stiffer than normal also .. will give the pressures a try ...

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WarriorOnTheEdge


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posted June 02, 2013 06:33 PM        
Leo Vince: Happy to hear other views and especially your suspension setup and tire pressure combination.

Can you define what you mean by "pretty firm"? I am wondering how far to go with any suspension changes. Below are the standard settings:

<- Harder - Softer ->

Front Fork
Rebound damp. Range 1..15 clicks Standard 8 clicks
Compression damp. Range 1..18 clicks Standard 10 clicks
Spring preload Range 4..19 mm Standard 14 mm

Rear
Rebound damp. Range 0..2.75 turns Standard 2 turns
Compression damp. Range 0..6 turns Standard 2.75 turns
Spring preload Range 170..180 mm Standard 175.5 mm

Just curious!
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LeoVinceZX14


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posted June 04, 2013 06:11 AM        Edited By: LeoVinceZX14 on 4 Jun 2013 15:00
WarriorOnTheEdge:

Happy to.

Here you go with my current settings:

Front Suspension
• Pre-load = 3 lines (showing) OEM is 8 lines showing
• Compression = 5 (clicks out from full in)
• Rebound = 6 (clicks out from full in)

Rear Suspension
• Pre-load = 168mm
• Compression = 1 ¾ (Turn out from full in)
• Rebound = 2 (Turns out from full in)


For me, this setup along with a 41 tooth rear sprocket makes the bike completely predictable and able to put down 100% of the power @ swb AND T/C switched off (stock engine, for now) with no issues. That said, almost certainly, I will go firmer at the rear to account for the additional torque/power and perhaps tweak the front as well after some upgrades I have planned this summer. Just depends on how the bike responds to the additional power.

I am a back road/track day type rider so my bike is set up for that purpose. In combination with the lowered psi settings you get strong edge grip, excellent control at WOT and a comfortable ride when you are just...cruising. I run different psi depending on the temps and/or for rain. When you first lower the psi, its normal for the tires to feel a bit...mushy. The issue is matching the psi with the ambient temps where you are.

Lastly, since you mentioned 2 up riding, I have also taken a 1,975 mile road trip with this set up that included some 2 up, sedate country road rides with a passenger and she was completely comfortable. If you have poor condition roads that you ride on regularly, then you might need to go slightly softer than me depending on your weight. Hope that helps.

Leo
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LeoVinceZX14


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posted June 04, 2013 10:46 AM        Edited By: LeoVinceZX14 on 4 Jun 2013 21:24
WarriorOnTheEdge:

Two important things I forgot to mention as follows:

1. The set up I have shared reflects over 12,000 miles of testing started on a gen 1 (2007) ZX14 and the refined on the '12 model (7,300 miles) with the range of psi settings and ultimately...firmer settings than would have suited the gen 1 bike. Along the way I have also used selected test riders of different weights and skills than myself to inject additional feedback in the process.

2. I have relied on the expertise of my personal tuner who formerly set up AMA national caliber racebikes to refine the current settings from what we developed with my prior 14. His race paddock approach and ability to zero in on the tiniest subtle tweak are how I got to where I am with this set up for the 14r. Once my power upgrades are done later this summer we will refine it further.
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Fatsix


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posted June 04, 2013 02:52 PM        
Thanks LEO. I like your front end settings. I need to dial the rear in now. Do you have the forks poking through the tree any?
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LeoVinceZX14


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posted June 05, 2013 01:38 PM        Edited By: LeoVinceZX14 on 5 Jun 2013 23:04
Fatsix

Thanks. I run factory ride height forks to retain all my ground clearance. So far with stock engine power and 41 tooth, I have no problem keeping front end on the deck to 11k thru 4th gear with this setup and how I use the bike. Good luck with getting your setup dialed in for how you ride.
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WarriorOnTheEdge


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posted June 05, 2013 03:59 PM        
Thanks LV,

That gives me a good idea of where to start!

I note that you have stated a rear preload of 168 mm which is 2 mm outside of (firmer than) the firmest recommended value (170 mm) - according to the book. I guess you are saying that the spring can be wound up a little tighter than the recommended limit but my questions would be:

1. Under hard straight-line acceleration does that setting cause the rear to top-out?
2. Rolling on through a corner does that setting cause the rear to top out?

Cheers,

Mark

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