gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted April 04, 2013 05:44 PM
 Edited By: gobrian77 on 5 Apr 2013 01:47
14R Newb with a Couple Questions
Some of you might know me from labusas- hopefully the newb bashing isn't as bad over here. 
I live in Thailand and just ordered a 2013 ABS 14R (at a ridiculous price due to import taxes...) and I'm starting to put together a list of what I want to add on it- I'll need to order everything fom the States, and there will be taxes on top of that so I want to get it right the first time- I'll hopefully have the bike before the end of May- it needs to go through the importation process first.
I can't get proper dyno tuning done so I'm going to go with slip-ons rather than a full system so I can avoid having to use a PC-V, and I'm planning to go with the Graves CF cans unless there are others that would be a better choice- the claim is a 24lb drop, and weight is my main focus- a couple ponies are secondary.
I'll grab a set of Pazzo levers- I still haven't decided on the standards or shorties- how's the clutch pull on the 14R (I haven't ridden one or even heard one running- they're very rare here, so I'm kinda flying blind).
Do the Vortex rearsets make a huge difference?
I'm also planning to order Galfer braided steel brake lines.
Basically, I'd like to know if there's anything absolutely essential I should be considering- it's tough having to make all my choices sight-unseen- I'd appreciate any advice.
  
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hagrid
Expert Class
Posts: 373
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posted April 05, 2013 02:46 AM
If you find yourself riding in stop and go traffic, rethink the shorty clutch lever idea.
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blue 14R
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BobC
Pro
Posts: 1736
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posted April 05, 2013 02:48 AM
There's absolutely nothing wrong with the 14R's brakes, you don't need to go messing with them. The levers are black anodised and look just fine. If I were you I would take the money you intended spending on levers and hoses and spend it on a PCV. If you buy a Brock's exhaust you will have free access to his map files for the Power Commander so you won't need any dyno time.
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Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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biggmoinc
Zone Head
Posts: 747
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posted April 05, 2013 03:42 AM
quote:
If you buy a Brock's exhaust you will have free access to his map files for the Power Commander so you won't need any dyno time.
Totally agree with that!
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07 ZX14 bmc filter, muzzy m14, 16/44,66",auto shift, 6'3, 204lbs/1.54/3.99/6.03@120/7.8/9.32@147
biggmo@aol.com
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gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted April 05, 2013 04:22 AM
Edited By: gobrian77 on 5 Apr 2013 12:28
I considered a Brock's system- it's just not what I want.
The complete lack of tech support over here in Thailand means that any problems or issues related to an ECU alteration can entail weeks of downtime (and my dealer is a 12-hour drive from where I live)- I want to keep the bike stock to the point where I don't have to mess with it (I'm familiar with its use, having used a PC on my Hayabusa back in the States)- it's not a matter of trying to save money- the slip-ons will get me to about 560lbs, which sounds a lot better than 585lbs- I wouldn't mind dropping more with a full system, but I can't take the chance- living here and riding a 'big' bike (which basically is anything bigger than a 125cc scooter) means making some compromises, especially with a bike over 650cc. If I were a better mechanic it might be a different story.
I'm happy to hear the brake review and I'm reconsidering changing the lines- I'll still be getting the Pazzo levers, though- how's the clutch pull?
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fish_antlers
Administrator
The Truth is Out There
Posts: 21895
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posted April 05, 2013 06:08 AM
Edited By: fish_antlers on 5 Apr 2013 14:10
Welcome aboard - I understand what you are saying, but agree with the Brock's comments. We did exactly that when we bought our busa - installed Brock's full system and downloaded the specific map for our combination (he has them all listed in an online database) and then installed the power commander and loaded the map file into it.
As everyone here states the maps are spot on. We even took it to a Dyno and there was nothing they could do to improve on it. Brock has a good system in place. FYI your "welcome" happens in the Smack House 
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What business is it of yours where I'm from, Friendo?
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BobC
Pro
Posts: 1736
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posted April 05, 2013 08:56 AM
Edited By: BobC on 5 Apr 2013 16:58
quote:
I'm happy to hear the brake review and I'm reconsidering changing the lines- I'll still be getting the Pazzo levers, though- how's the clutch pull?
The clutch pull on the 14R is "normal" but personally I wouldn't fit shorty levers. Had them on a Fireblade and it was a classic case of form over function, or looks just for the sake of it. The standard length were much better. On my other sports bike, an Aprilia RSV4, I fitted standard length ASV levers, they were great. I was going to fit a pair on my 14R but the stock black levers look ok, so I left it alone.
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Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted April 05, 2013 02:04 PM
Edited By: gobrian77 on 5 Apr 2013 22:19
Hey, Oliver.
I understand your points about the exhaust, but I really think I'm making the right decision based on my circumstances- if I lived in the US it would be a different story- I haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet and will give it some more thought.
Exhaust aside, is there any other 'must have' accessory that I should order? I can get it all installed at the dealer before taking delivery (I don't have the tools or workspace I used to have- I can't even source a decent rear stand locally and will probably have to order one from the States for $350, which means closer to $500 after import taxes- it's kinda nuts) so I need to finalize everything within the next couple weeks.
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gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted April 05, 2013 03:35 PM
quote:
quote:
I'm happy to hear the brake review and I'm reconsidering changing the lines- I'll still be getting the Pazzo levers, though- how's the clutch pull?
The clutch pull on the 14R is "normal" but personally I wouldn't fit shorty levers. Had them on a Fireblade and it was a classic case of form over function, or looks just for the sake of it. The standard length were much better. On my other sports bike, an Aprilia RSV4, I fitted standard length ASV levers, they were great. I was going to fit a pair on my 14R but the stock black levers look ok, so I left it alone.
Yeah, I'm planning on getting the standard levers, but I thought I'd ask- the shorties look kinda strange on such a big bike.
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gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted April 05, 2013 03:59 PM
See, now you guys have me thinking... b@stards...
For street riding with reasonable cornering clearance (not drag strip oriented), which system would you recommend? It's tough to tell from the Brock's site.
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PuckDracon
Novice Class
Posts: 48
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posted April 05, 2013 04:59 PM
I run Pazzo standard clutch/shorty brake on my 14. FWIW the "Long" Pazzo is still a bit shorter then the stock levers.
I would never recommend shorty clutch to anyone...first time you're stuck in stop/go you'll regret it!
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2012 ZX14R. Too many pretty mods and not enough go fast ones.
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Lou_ZX12R
Expert Class
One Day at a Time
Posts: 196
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posted April 05, 2013 05:57 PM
If 650's are considered large and importing is so expensive why not leave it stock? Then you don't have to worry about anything. The loss of 30lbs may or may not make much of a difference depending on how you ride. Just a thought
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2000 ZX12R 40shot
2012 ZX14R
2009 Concours 14
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gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted April 05, 2013 06:12 PM
Leave it stock? Oh, Lou, surely you jest!
I've gotta monkey with it a little, and I can't stand the stock cans.
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gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted September 01, 2013 03:26 AM
An update to this thread (though it was an unbelievable ordeal getting it done and delivered) I decided in the end to just do it right- I doubt there's a better set-up second-gen 14R in Thailand- so far I've got:
Brock's Performance CT Single QuietKore titanium full exhaust
Power Commander V w/Brock's Performance street map
Spiegler braided-steel ABS brake lines with EBC HH pads
Pazzo folding levers
HID 6000K headlights
Zero Gravity Double Bubble windscreen in dark smoke
Back-Off brake-light flashing modulator
Driven racing fuel cap
CF heel guards
Hyperpro steering damper
Yoshimura frame sliders
Custom ECU tuning via Woolich Racing interface
Devil pre-load adjusters
I like this thing quite a bit:
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Seno
Pro
BANNED FOR LIFE!
Posts: 1230
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posted September 01, 2013 09:11 AM
Looks great! If you decide to go with vortex rear sets, thing about adding a HM strain gauge quick shifter.... Best upgrade to my bike besides the CT exhaust!
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2012 Black 14R -> Completely done!
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zixxer14
Pro
Damn that was Quick
Posts: 1233
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posted September 01, 2013 09:16 AM
Nice street set up, now put 100k on it & report back.
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Lou_ZX12R
Expert Class
One Day at a Time
Posts: 196
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posted September 01, 2013 03:34 PM
quote:
Leave it stock? Oh, Lou, surely you jest!
I've gotta monkey with it a little, and I can't stand the stock cans.
Sorry, not jesting, lol. Let me say this. The reasons we modify is to beat any/all competition in our own little playground (whereever that may be for each of us). You are in a distinct area where your competition stands no chance. I don't care what you do to a 650cc motorcycle it isn't going to beat a stock zx14r. So what competition do you really have? You also don't want to worry about reliability. Stock is as reliable as you can get. You are in a unique position to spend money in other areas than performance parts. If you want to drop the stock exhaust go ahead, but why go with the best for performance when you don't need to. Go with something more pleasing and save the money for other things.
I would consider a better seat, bar risers, a complete spare set of body panels, Braided steel brake lines before doing anything beyond the exhaust. Here is why
Better seat, you can never be too comfortable especially if your dealer is 14hours away (just in case)
Bar risers, relieve some strain on your back (unless you are 5.6 or shorter) If you are consider lowering the bike a bit
Braided steel brake lines, BECAUSE when it comes to stopping your life may depend on IT!!!
spare set of body panels, This is my favorite. I tried to do this with the 12r but could never get all the panels I needed. I would love to have a complete OEM spare set to just do a custom paint job every 2 years. I would go stock one year than custom the next. Every 3 years repaint a custom job on the spare bodywork. This keeps it fresh, clean, different, and saves the OEM from being scratched up too much from road crap.
I believe the reason most spend lots of money on go-fast parts is because of competition. One form or another. The competition @ the track, The neighbor or friend next door, the guy or group you run into on the highway, etc..
I had a friend with a hyabusa, it was tricked out, lots of go-fast parts, lowered, extended just a bit, NOS, etc. He bought it because it was dirt cheap. He simply enjoyed doing poker runs, never rode more than an hour away from home, hardly saw the highway and never saw a track. He truly loved the bike for what it was, two wheels of transportation that he could carry a conversation about. nothing else. When I asked why he didn't by something else his reply was "it doesn't matter what I sit on as long as it's paid for and I can ride" The go-fast parts didn't mean anything to him because there was no competition. To me that is a waste of money but fortunately for him it wasn't his money. Your bike looks great, enjoy it and ride safe.
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2000 ZX12R 40shot
2012 ZX14R
2009 Concours 14
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gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted September 01, 2013 04:00 PM
I've already got Spiegler braided-steel lines (and EBC HH pads). I doubt I'll get a seat as the stocker suits me just fine- I'm 6'2" and I'm a bit cramped from the pegs to tank cut-outs, but I've got a set of Knight Designs 1" lower pegs on the way- I doubt I'll put risers on the bars, though my first long trip might convince me otherwise.
A spare set of body panels would be so ridiculously expensive that I wouldn't bother (though they'd be nice to have)- I could get the current set wrapped evey year if I wanted, I suppose.
As far as the exhaust goes, I wanted to drop as much weight as possible- the fact that pipe is also (arguably) the best for performance as far as a single-sided system goes was a bonus- I also find the look/sound extremely pleasing.
I spent money on mods because I think the bike can be made way better than it comes from the factory (the fact that the 14R costs over 30 grand here OTD from Kawasaki due to taxes and import charges means that the peripheral stuff look cheap in comparison- it's the same for every other bike that's not built in Thailand- roughly double US MSRP- that's not to say I found it 'cheap'- this was a pretty major purchase for me)- I have no local competition, and I've never seen another one on the road (though there are a few scattered around)- I built what I wanted.
Hell, I like just going out to the garage to look at it. 
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gobrian77
Novice Class
Posts: 43
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posted September 01, 2013 04:04 PM
quote:
Looks great! If you decide to go with vortex rear sets, thing about adding a HM strain gauge quick shifter.... Best upgrade to my bike besides the CT exhaust!
I'm considering it- I heard about some issues with the Vortex rear-sets and ABS models (though it seems like it's a simple modification to adapt them to work)- I need to look at your thread again- the complete in availability of parts over here makes it tough for me to pull the trigger on the set-up as if there's a figment issue I'll have problems resolving it.
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