j23baller
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted October 30, 2011 01:06 PM
Help- Autotune power wire hookup?
Hello everybody, I'm fairly new to this site and would like some help installing my PC Autotune. I have my PCV and Autotune ran under the seat, and have the ground for each running directly to the battery (since I know ground problems are a major issue).
Where do you hook up the power wire for the Autotune? I've been thinking of tapping into the license plate wire.
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2007 zx14r- Muzzy 4-1 Sidewinder exhaust, PCV, PC Autotune, secondary butterflies removed, custom orange metal flake paint, misc. chrome, and...wait for it...Roaring Toyz 330 osd wide tire kit.
I like people to look at my wide rear end when they get passed!
  
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gilberjj
Needs a job
Friend of Fast
Posts: 3196
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posted October 30, 2011 01:43 PM
That's the wire I used with an alligator clamp thingy.... It was easy!
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justoyz2
Zone Head
Justoyz Racing
Posts: 858
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posted October 30, 2011 04:09 PM
I use the fuel pump wire
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2012 zx14R-blue,2012 zx14R-black, 2014 zx14Trbo, 2011 zx10R, 2007 zx10 Turbo.....
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 01, 2011 09:42 PM
 Edited By: Rook on 2 Nov 2011 05:45
My PCV underseat install has only 1 wire which connects to main wiring harness. small black wire which I grounded to bracket bolt on subframe.
http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=CB3D3987-1372-66AE-3BE3B16BC01CC701
I used my tail light connection as the power source for my AT. Have my tag light LED hooked up to same connector and both run fine off of same source.
Check Radio shack for a couple of these. OR online. Radio shack I had to cut them down and sand thinner but they will work.
Hooks in here.
Sorry I do not have the How Too written up on the AT. Have all the pics here but never got around to doing the tutorial.
Let me know if I can give you any details about wire routing. O2 bung wire conector is right in front of gera shift shaft.
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ryn0cer0s
Expert Class
Rider for Life
Posts: 274
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posted November 01, 2011 09:53 PM
How hard is it to install the autotune with a Brock's Alien Head?
I have been thinking about getting one, my bike seems to run a little rich and I ride at 4-5k altitude
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RYNO
2010 Candy Persimmon Red ZX-14
Brock's Ceramic coated Alien Head full exhaust
PCV, SpeedoHealer, lowered
"Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly"
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 01, 2011 10:23 PM
Edited By: Rook on 2 Nov 2011 06:25
The only thing that will make it any different than my Tsukigi is the location of the bung. Mine is here. If you have a newer pipe from Brock, it came with an O2 bung welded in already.
[IMG] [/IMG]
From there, the wire goes to the shift shaft / water pump region shown in pic on last post on this thread. Then up through frame to underseat area.
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ryn0cer0s
Expert Class
Rider for Life
Posts: 274
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posted November 01, 2011 10:43 PM
I am at work right now, but I am pretty sure that I DON'T have a Bung welded into it. I got it new a year ago, but I think I bought it from BallZ and not straight from Brock.
If I need that, can I get just that section from Brock with the bung already welded (it is ceramic coated)?
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RYNO
2010 Candy Persimmon Red ZX-14
Brock's Ceramic coated Alien Head full exhaust
PCV, SpeedoHealer, lowered
"Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly"
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justoyz2
Zone Head
Justoyz Racing
Posts: 858
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posted November 02, 2011 12:52 AM
You guys ROCK.... providing the picks speaks volume..... Members helping Members...
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2012 zx14R-blue,2012 zx14R-black, 2014 zx14Trbo, 2011 zx10R, 2007 zx10 Turbo.....
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 02, 2011 09:07 AM
Is there a section for How tos? I have a boatload of them with tons of pics. Written for newbie wrenchers as that is what I am. Usually I just pop a link over to ninjaforums (the witty banter site). hope that is ok with the mods here. I also post links over there to you guys and mention bikeland ZX-14.com. This is the hard technical info site. Be awesome to have a How To section here.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 02, 2011 09:24 AM
Edited By: Rook on 2 Nov 2011 17:33
"If I need that, can I get just that section from Brock with the bung already welded (it is ceramic coated)?"
I'm sure you can get a new section with bung installed. Or you could send in the part you already have. Ive heard that the ceramic coating would need to be removed from the weld area to make a clean weld. Brock could tell you which section of pipe to send him. Mine is the short piece of pipe where the system combines all the upstream flow into 1. What would be the "collector" just before the midpipe on a stock exhaust. You could also have a local welder attach the bung (which comes in the Auto Tune kit) but IMO, I would really need to trust the guy before I went that rout over Brock. Not to mention the ceramic situation which like bung location, is another exhaust specific welding issue. I'd feel best if it was primarily an exhaust shop, not a general welder to install the bung.
Also might want to re-coat that part if you go with the on e you have already. It would not be very visible but if you are particular like many of us are.....you know- IDK what effect the intense heat of weld would have on the surrounding ceramic. probably none as ceramic is just glass. It will melt and it will solidify a million times without change. It may flux or flow a tiny bit.
I guess there was some controversy as to where the BEST location for a bung was. I'm sure Brock knows exactly where they should go. If t were me and I had a Brock system, I'd def talk to his people.
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DogoZX
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted November 02, 2011 09:48 AM
Had an AH on my '06... I welded the bung in the midpipe, just behind the oil pan.
On that bike, the AT-200 was mounted to the left ram air duct . So, I tapped the running light for power.
I have a CT single on my '08, which came with a bung already welded about halfway up the midpipe.
The PC and AT are mounted under the seat, and AT power is tapped into the tag light... Like Rook's setup.
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Seno
Pro
BANNED FOR LIFE!
Posts: 1230
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posted November 02, 2011 09:55 AM
Do you recommend the Auto Tune? Do you notice a difference? When I had my 07 dyno tuned the tuner had a few negative comments regarding the Auto Tune... I was wondering if you would buy it again after owning one. Thanks, and sorry not trying to hijack this thread.
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2012 Black 14R -> Completely done!
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DogoZX
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted November 02, 2011 10:31 AM
quote:
Do you recommend the Auto Tune?
No, I'd recomend the Wideband 2... It will autotune and more.
quote:
Do you notice a difference?
Yes, but not always for the better... I would not autotune without a gauge to see what affect the suggested trims have in real time... Also, the AT hates the decel fuel cut... coughTRE006acoughcough.
quote:
When I had my 07 dyno tuned the tuner had a few negative comments regarding the Auto Tune.
I just had my bike on the dyno yesterday and had that conversation with the tuner... He warned me that readings can be inaccurate and that the 02 sensor is only good for about 200 hours... That being said, the AFR #'s on my LCD were in synch with the AFR #'s on the dyno. 
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j23baller
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted November 02, 2011 07:09 PM
Awesome info guys. So I just got my bike back together with my muzzy sidewinder, pcV, and autotune. Runs good except on deceleration has loud backfire. I've read about it being normal, but I would say its the smog injection that I did not install block offs.
After reading, I was supposed to disable the smog injection, am I hurting anything by running it like it is until I tear it back apart to do the block offs?
As far as thread jacking my thread, I don't mind since everything so far has been useful.
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2007 zx14r- Muzzy 4-1 Sidewinder exhaust, PCV, PC Autotune, secondary butterflies removed, custom orange metal flake paint, misc. chrome, and...wait for it...Roaring Toyz 330 osd wide tire kit.
I like people to look at my wide rear end when they get passed!
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 03, 2011 12:27 AM
quote:
Awesome info guys. So I just got my bike back together with my muzzy sidewinder, pcV, and autotune. Runs good except on deceleration has loud backfire. .I've read about it being normal, but I would say its the smog injection that I did not install block offs.
Disabling PAIR or removing altogether decreased the decel pops by about 33%. I don't mind it now. Actually I enjoy it quite a bit. It was alarming before the PAIR block. Very loud and impossible to avoid with throttle control. I stuck a wood dowel in the clean air pipe ans hose clamped it, stuck it back in. Later went o BO plates. looks nice easier to work on and a bit less weight.
quote:
After reading, I was supposed to disable the smog injection, am I hurting anything by running it like it is until I tear it back apart to do the block offs?
I really doubt it. A lot of people have run their full system with PAIR. However, that is the thing that really motivates most to disable it.
You can do this:
http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=10189125-D56B-84E2-1A9D708DF473FBAF
..or you can do this:
http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=CAA38FC9-D56B-84E2-16C46626217188D2
if you go with Block off plates, might I suggest you go with Ivan's which is the brand Dogo has. Ivan made some kind of a nifty little electrical terminator plug for the white connector that is left behind from the PAIR. I bought Muzzy's because of the cool looking airbox plug but I never used it. It is too big to fit the hole grommet. The plastic furniture end cap in the tutorial was perfect once I sanded it down a bit.
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j23baller
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted November 03, 2011 12:19 PM
I'll most likely go with the block off plates, but might try to do the plug method for the time being. I did the block off plates on my 07 Kawasaki Meanstreak and it stopped most of the uncontrollable decel popping.
I've got another issue I have to figure out too. I haven't started my bike for about 4 months (it was bone stock then), now that I have exhaust on it and everything it sounds like I have an exhaust leak around the head. I've checked and didn't see any exhaust coming out, and did some searching and found that our bikes are just noisy due to the cam chain adjuster. My bike has 6900 miles on it. Should I be concerned or just ride it and get used to all the noises? I don't remember what it sounded like when it was stock, lol.
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2007 zx14r- Muzzy 4-1 Sidewinder exhaust, PCV, PC Autotune, secondary butterflies removed, custom orange metal flake paint, misc. chrome, and...wait for it...Roaring Toyz 330 osd wide tire kit.
I like people to look at my wide rear end when they get passed!
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Romans
Expert Class
Posts: 294
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posted November 03, 2011 12:55 PM
quote:
I'll most likely go with the block off plates, but might try to do the plug method for the time being. I did the block off plates on my 07 Kawasaki Meanstreak and it stopped most of the uncontrollable decel popping.
I've got another issue I have to figure out too. I haven't started my bike for about 4 months (it was bone stock then), now that I have exhaust on it and everything it sounds like I have an exhaust leak around the head. I've checked and didn't see any exhaust coming out, and did some searching and found that our bikes are just noisy due to the cam chain adjuster. My bike has 6900 miles on it. Should I be concerned or just ride it and get used to all the noises? I don't remember what it sounded like when it was stock, lol.
When you installed the Exhaust system did you replace the Exhausts Gaskets ? 3.79 times 4.
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2012 ZX-14 R Turbo, 2010 ZX-14 Turbo, 2007 ZX-14, 2009 ZX-6R, YZ 450F
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j23baller
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted November 03, 2011 01:32 PM
Edited By: j23baller on 3 Nov 2011 21:43
Yeah I used new gaskets, that's why I'm thinking now it's not an exhaust leak and just the normal noisy zx14 engine sound. Lol. I'm going to ride it this weekend and see of it gets better or worse. Maybe it quiet down, but it bad when you can hear it over the exhaust itself.
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2007 zx14r- Muzzy 4-1 Sidewinder exhaust, PCV, PC Autotune, secondary butterflies removed, custom orange metal flake paint, misc. chrome, and...wait for it...Roaring Toyz 330 osd wide tire kit.
I like people to look at my wide rear end when they get passed!
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Romans
Expert Class
Posts: 294
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posted November 03, 2011 01:52 PM
Much more sound up front with New The Header.
TRE006A Will stop your back fire. The cost will be your gear display.
If your running Auto tune do not except any wild trim #'s around 36-3800 RPM. You will see once you try. If you do except,,,, the problem will compound the lean AFR. I hope this helps. Cheers.
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2012 ZX-14 R Turbo, 2010 ZX-14 Turbo, 2007 ZX-14, 2009 ZX-6R, YZ 450F
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j23baller
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted November 03, 2011 03:35 PM
quote:
Much more sound up front with New The Header.
TRE006A Will stop your back fire. The cost will be your gear display.
If your running Auto tune do not except any wild trim #'s around 36-3800 RPM. You will see once you try. If you do except,,,, the problem will compound the lean AFR. I hope this helps. Cheers.
That's what I was thinking about more exhaust noise up front now that it has more flow. I'll just get used to it along with the 330 rear tire, talk about handling great! Lol.
I'll probably install the TRE when I do the block off plates, having no gear indicator won't bother me since I've never had a bike with one. All I need is a tach.
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2007 zx14r- Muzzy 4-1 Sidewinder exhaust, PCV, PC Autotune, secondary butterflies removed, custom orange metal flake paint, misc. chrome, and...wait for it...Roaring Toyz 330 osd wide tire kit.
I like people to look at my wide rear end when they get passed!
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 04, 2011 03:13 PM
Edited By: Rook on 4 Nov 2011 23:16
The noises that the 14 is known for are rattley noises..NOt like a can of bolts rattle but more like a fast paced clicking like a ratchet. I imagine an exhaust leak would sound like a hiss. Never heard anything like a hiss from my bike. The CCT does make a clatter for a few seconds on start up and the there is a clop, clop clop when the motor is cold.
If you have a leak of exhaust, you could try squirting soap water at the area you think it might be while the motor runs. Obviously that is good for about 30 seconds until the motor starts to get hot enough
to vaporize water on contact.
Yes, but not always for the better... I would not autotune without a gauge to see what affect the suggested trims have in real time... Also, the AT hates the decel fuel cut... coughTRE006acoughcough.
I wpould just take dogo's word on that as he has been experimenting with this stuff for quite some time. Me, I have only found the AT to make an improvement with the 3.5 K rm range. The acceleration is MUCH smoother than stock or the maps I tried. The decel pop didn't seem to boither my self tuning.
Still, if I were buying again, I'd just trust Dogo on this one. The WB-2 can't be worse than the AT-200. I'm pretty sure it is installed exactly the same as AT. Looks excatly the same except for graphics.
He warned me that readings can be inaccurate and that the 02 sensor is only good for about 200 hours... Very interesting. 200 hours and then you need a new 02 sensor. No wonder they make a conector between the o2 bung wire and the module wire. Makes replacing the sensor a snap after youpaid the $80 for a new one. Can't be completely off after only 200 hours. They use those things in cars and they are good for mapping to produce clean emmissions for a long time. Just changerd the downstream from the cat o2 sensor on my Carolla at. It never gave in until 75,000 miles.
perhaps mapping for bikes is a little different. I have not even looked at trims at all in over 1 year. I imagine my o2 sensor is toast by now.
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j23baller
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted November 06, 2011 06:29 PM
quote:
The noises that the 14 is known for are rattley noises..NOt like a can of bolts rattle but more like a fast paced clicking like a ratchet. I imagine an exhaust leak would sound like a hiss. Never heard anything like a hiss from my bike. The CCT does make a clatter for a few seconds on start up and the there is a clop, clop clop when the motor is cold.
The rachet clicking sound is a good way to describe it, exactly what mine sounds like.
As far as the decel popping, I just give it partial throttle when slowing down instead of fully closed throttle.
Rode it today and runs good, but haven't really got on it yet. I've got to get to searching about my rear brake, it keeps locking up. I'll bleed the air out of it, make sure the resevoir isn't too full, brake works good, but after some riding the brake pedal won't press and the brake locks up. Release the bleeder valve, bleed, works good and then all over again. Any Ideas?
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2007 zx14r- Muzzy 4-1 Sidewinder exhaust, PCV, PC Autotune, secondary butterflies removed, custom orange metal flake paint, misc. chrome, and...wait for it...Roaring Toyz 330 osd wide tire kit.
I like people to look at my wide rear end when they get passed!
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted November 06, 2011 07:48 PM
yikes -- locking back brake. My guess is that you are on the right path with checking the fluid level. As the brakes get used the fluid heats up and then it expands, of course. If the system is overfull, there is less room for fluid expansion or perhaps none.
If you are saying your brake pedal won't press meaning it becomes so hard you can't press it down, sounds like something in addition to brake lockup that would happen if the system was over-pressurized from too much fluid.
The rear brake fluid reservoir is hard to check. I bled my fluid not long ago and I tried my best to put the level just below the FULL line on the reservoir. That's what I have heard recommended to avoid the situation I described above (and seems likely to be your situation). Set the bike level when you check the fluid. A rear stand works well.
Never hear of this happening to a 14. Can't see why it would not be possible. You could be the first in history.
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j23baller
Parking Attendant
Posts: 17
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posted November 06, 2011 08:23 PM
I left out the biggest part, im running a different caliper than stock. Since I'm running the 330 rear tire, I have a custom bottom mount bracket that holds a front caliper. I am running a different rear caliper than stock, but I don't understand why it will work good, and then gets hard and lock up after riding and not even using the brake. Your statement about the fluid heating up and expanding sounds like what it's doing. So I'm betting my muzzy sidewinder is heating the caliper up since the wide tire kit moves the caliper out where it's in the path of heat.
Can we change the title of this post to Misc knowledge? Lol
And I must thank everybody for the great help and have yet to hear a smartass comment.
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2007 zx14r- Muzzy 4-1 Sidewinder exhaust, PCV, PC Autotune, secondary butterflies removed, custom orange metal flake paint, misc. chrome, and...wait for it...Roaring Toyz 330 osd wide tire kit.
I like people to look at my wide rear end when they get passed!
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Romans
Expert Class
Posts: 294
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posted November 07, 2011 02:57 AM
Edited By: Romans on 7 Nov 2011 12:01
quote:
I am running a different rear caliper than stock, but I don't understand why it will work good, and then gets hard and lock up after riding and not even using the brake. Your statement about the fluid heating up and expanding sounds like what it's doing. So I'm betting my muzzy sidewinder is heating the caliper up since the wide tire kit moves the caliper out where it's in the path of heat.
Can we change the title of this post to Misc knowledge? Lol
And I must thank everybody for the great help and have yet to hear a smartass comment.
Sounds like your describing siezed or sticking Caliper, All New ???????
Try this first.
Remove caliper
Push pads back, sending fluid up to Res
Re install caliper
Confirm wheel spins Free
Check Res to make sure fluid it is Not Over Full.
If you are dragging the brake and expanding the disk a few thou, the pushed back fluid needs somewhere to go. Can't go back if res is over full. Just a thought.
I hope this helps. Cheers.
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2012 ZX-14 R Turbo, 2010 ZX-14 Turbo, 2007 ZX-14, 2009 ZX-6R, YZ 450F
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