Rob7R
Expert Class
More balls than brains.
Posts: 190
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posted August 09, 2011 11:35 AM
Brakes?
I just purchased a new set of brake pads for my 14. I'm looking through the service manual and it looks like you don't even need to take the front calipers off to do the front brakes. How have you guys gone about doing your brakes? Did you use the method in the manual. I know you have to remove the caliper for the rear brake, but it says nothing about it for the fronts. Of course the manual is somewhat vague in my opinion.
Any info is appreciated!
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Current bike- 07 ZX14 black with D&D cans, PC3, 43t rear sprocket, 6 inch extensions, roaring toys lowering links. Muzzy Bonneville Pro, TRE Velocity stacks, Puig DB windscreen, Sargent seat, Heli-risers, and throttlemeisters.
  
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joel787
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted August 09, 2011 12:54 PM
how do u plan on taking the pads out with the calipers on?
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http://www.proe-pr.com/cnc.html
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Rob7R
Expert Class
More balls than brains.
Posts: 190
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posted August 09, 2011 01:24 PM
According to the service manual they slide out.
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Current bike- 07 ZX14 black with D&D cans, PC3, 43t rear sprocket, 6 inch extensions, roaring toys lowering links. Muzzy Bonneville Pro, TRE Velocity stacks, Puig DB windscreen, Sargent seat, Heli-risers, and throttlemeisters.
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted August 09, 2011 03:22 PM
Only 2 bolts holding each caliper on I'd take them off.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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Slowninja
Expert Class
Slow-ride
Posts: 189
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posted August 09, 2011 06:43 PM
Shouldn'tbe any way to remove them without removing the calipers. If they just slid out.. They would slide out going down the road.
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06 zx14
SWB
9.24 @ 148
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted August 09, 2011 10:12 PM
I just did this and have a bunch of pics. I sort of do HOw Tos as a little hobby to my hobby of wrenching which is a hobby to my hobby of riding.
I have the draft tutorial written with pics and can post a link for you tomorrow. Not yet edited but you will have no problem understanding. .and you can always ask, of course. if you don't understand something.
Do rear first to get the hang of it. YES, you remove the rear caliper. The fronts you leave the caliper on. Don't sweat, This is not hard.
I put in EBC double H front and back. So far, do not feel any better than stocks but they are not squeaking one bit. AS GOOD as OEM pads. Prolly cheaper too. Have not tried at the track yet. OEM pads worked great at the track---I believe either choice is good and that is what others here told me when I started a thread a month or so ago. Pretty hard to NOT get good braking performance with the 14.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted August 09, 2011 10:39 PM
Remove mounting bolts [M].
[P] is the retainer pin. that stays in until caliper is off.
Hang caliper by wire (I do it---seems like a wise thing to do rather than let it hang on the brake line for a few hours or more). Loosen the pin to the end of its threads. Compress the retainer clip inward to release tension on the retainer pin. hold old pads and retainer clip in caliper with finger and thumb while pulling the pin out completely.
Pads , pin and clpi are out of caliper.
Take the opportunity to wash the rotor and the caliper very thouroughly. Definitely wash the rotor to rid it of old brake pad residue.
Outer pad goes in first.
retainer clip goes in and Pin goes through clip, outer caliper, hole in outer pad .
inner pad goes in. finish pushing pin through inner pad and inner calpiper.
Thread the pin in. Carefully fit the caliper back in position on the mount. It may be necessary to push pads in apart by hand (the pistons tend to expand out under pressure in the hydrolic system). Torque mounting bolts to 18 ft pounds. Torque brake pad pin to 13' lbs.
Pump rear brake pedal until pressure can be felt in the pedal. DO NOT RIDE THE BIKE WITHOUT DOING THIS OR YOU WILL HAVE NO BRAKE PRESSURE TO OPPERATE BRAKES!
Check fluid level of rear brake fluid reservoir. The new pads will be thicker and this
could increase the level in the reservoir past the UPPER line. An overfilled brake system may cause pads to lock when the fluid expands from heat.
That'll keep you occupied a while I will post the link for fronts tomorrow.
HAPPY WRENCHING
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted August 10, 2011 02:07 AM
Great write up!
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted August 10, 2011 08:52 AM
Thanks, eklipse. Here is the unabridged version, Front and rear.
http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=B49796D0-D56B-84E2-12ED4D09CBEB875A
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted August 10, 2011 08:53 AM
 Edited By: Rook on 10 Aug 2011 16:57
Thanks, eklipse. Here is the unabridged version, Front and rear.
http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=B49796D0-D56B-84E2-12ED4D09CBEB875A <<< CLICK link
i would post this stuff over here as well but we do not have a specific forum section for How Tos like ninjaforums.
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Rob7R
Expert Class
More balls than brains.
Posts: 190
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posted August 10, 2011 07:56 PM
Awesome! Thanks! I was hoping somebody who had actually done it would post. I've done brakes on many cars, this will be my first time doing brakes on a bike.
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Current bike- 07 ZX14 black with D&D cans, PC3, 43t rear sprocket, 6 inch extensions, roaring toys lowering links. Muzzy Bonneville Pro, TRE Velocity stacks, Puig DB windscreen, Sargent seat, Heli-risers, and throttlemeisters.
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BobC
Pro
Posts: 1736
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posted August 10, 2011 11:57 PM
Edited By: BobC on 11 Aug 2011 08:04
That's a really good "How To" article Rook, excellent photography and clear instructions, you should in publishing.
Is it worth mentioning something about checking the condition of the pistons and seals? Especially for riders who don't ride their bikes in permanent sunshine. Here in the UK the use of road salt in the winter makes this very neccessary. Also, if the old pads were very worn the new ones won't go in without pushing the pistons back a bit. Obvious to most of us but maybe not to a novice.
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Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted August 11, 2011 08:51 AM
Edited By: Rook on 11 Aug 2011 16:51
Thanks, Bob.
"Is it worth mentioning something about checking the condition of the pistons and seals? Especially for riders who don't ride their bikes in permanent sunshine. Here in the UK the use of road salt in the winter makes this very neccessary. Also, if the old pads were very worn the new ones won't go in without pushing the pistons back a bit. Obvious to most of us but maybe not to a novice. "
If the calipers and pads are off, might as well inspect everything you can. I wish I would have noticed something about that in the SM. I am sure they address piston and seal inspection. Prolly is a part of sched maint at some point.
The pressure that should always be present in the lines will cause the pistons to close up so the new pads may not fit back on the rotor without first spreading the pads. I breifly mention pushing the pads apart after installing them in the tutorial. You can also push the pistons apart before installing pads but then you have to move a little bit quick to get the calipers back on---or you can always pry the pads apart with your finger tips or some other soft object.
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dcjens
Pro
Wet side of Washington
Posts: 1059
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posted August 12, 2011 08:48 PM
This being a brake thread... I've had my bike for 3 yrs and 22K miles and I'm on my 3rd set of front rotors. I can feel them getting funny feeling already. I'm thinking the calipers aren't releasing all the way. I have EBC pads. any ideas? and no I don't ride the front brake. I probably use a 80/20 stopping bias town and freeway, no racing or high speeds
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Black 06
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Bigbore4
Zone Head
Posts: 806
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posted August 13, 2011 02:15 AM
Put some PFM full floating Ductile iron rotors with PFM calipers and you'll have the best brakes and not have to worry about warpage.
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted August 13, 2011 07:35 AM
3rd set of rotors and only 22,000 miles... Sounds like there has to be a problem somewhere. It wouldn't matter what kind of rotors you put on there, until the problem is fixed it will warp them too.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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joel787
Zone Head
Posts: 590
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posted August 13, 2011 12:08 PM
Damn man being $300 a set, i would been flinstone braking by now
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http://www.proe-pr.com/cnc.html
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Rob7R
Expert Class
More balls than brains.
Posts: 190
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posted August 15, 2011 08:33 PM
Just changed them out today. Went off without a hitch. Thanks for the tutorial. I also went with EBC double H pads. They seem just as good as the stockers. Only issue so far is that they are kinda noisy. Not really a squeal, more like a hissing sound. Hopefully it'll go away once they've worn in a bit.
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Current bike- 07 ZX14 black with D&D cans, PC3, 43t rear sprocket, 6 inch extensions, roaring toys lowering links. Muzzy Bonneville Pro, TRE Velocity stacks, Puig DB windscreen, Sargent seat, Heli-risers, and throttlemeisters.
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dcjens
Pro
Wet side of Washington
Posts: 1059
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posted August 16, 2011 08:03 PM
quote:
Just changed them out today. Went off without a hitch. Thanks for the tutorial. I also went with EBC double H pads. They seem just as good as the stockers. Only issue so far is that they are kinda noisy. Not really a squeal, more like a hissing sound. Hopefully it'll go away once they've worn in a bit.
I agree. EBC pads are loud. I have several thousand miles on these
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Black 06
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