Rook
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posted August 16, 2011 05:31 PM
 Edited By: Rook on 17 Aug 2011 01:35
^^^I see- that explains how I am going to get the cam shafts back in there at the right degree. As long as I do not remove the sprocket from the cam shaft, I can just line the sprocket timing marks up with the top edge of the engine case. If that is right, the cams will be right too. Everything will be back as it was before disassembly.
I will get a bungee to hold tension tension on the cam chain so it does not move on or fall off of the bottom of the CC sprocket.
  
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Rook
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posted August 16, 2011 05:34 PM
Now what do you think about these. Is that normal ware on the cap journals?
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1badzx12r
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posted August 16, 2011 05:46 PM
Edited By: 1badzx12r on 17 Aug 2011 01:54
no thats not normal wear.. but about all you can do is clean it up with some 400 grit sand paper .. and look for an oiling issue or trash in the pan
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joel787
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posted August 16, 2011 06:32 PM
do all 14's have this oiling issues?
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1badzx12r
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posted August 16, 2011 07:15 PM
in the 20 zx14 i've taken down ..only 1 had done what rooks did.. it had ate out the oil pump gear cover and was leaking thus not getting enough oil top side .. is what i found on that motor ..also i've found alot of silicone from the factory in the oil pick-up screen in others ...
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Rook
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posted August 16, 2011 10:00 PM
I have had leaky head gasket for 22,000 miles. Just getting to be very noticeable to where it does not burn off motor in the last year. I wonder if this ware could be caused by that alone?
trash in the pan? I see some silver flakes on every oil change. I thought that was just clutch wear. That doesn't necessarily mean clutch ware is not causing other engine ware--?
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1badzx12r
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posted August 17, 2011 03:23 AM
quote:
I have had leaky head gasket for 22,000 miles. Just getting to be very noticeable to where it does not burn off motor in the last year. I wonder if this ware could be caused by that alone?
no
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Rook
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posted August 17, 2011 07:58 AM
OK 1bad, we can come back to this if you can continue to be so generous with your time and info. I may replace these if less than a $100 but then what if the crankshaft is doing the same thing? Might as well replace those parts too if I'm doing the camshafts ----but I'm not about to split the motor open just yet. If this F$%$#R blows on me, I guess I won't be the first on one of these bikes. Still got a busa I can blow up!
I think I will just slap 'em back in. I may hit them with a very light sanding and polishing but I would hate to cause there to be more clearance between the journals/caps than we might have already. The motor is fairly quiet as far as noise. I don't want to cause a bigger problem trying to fix it.
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1badzx12r
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posted August 17, 2011 09:25 AM
Edited By: 1badzx12r on 17 Aug 2011 17:28
quote:
I don't want to cause a bigger problem trying to fix it.
IMHO you'll cause a bigger problem by not smoothing out the gauled metal.. 1 thing always leads to another in any motor.. bottom line speed cost
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Rook
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posted August 17, 2011 10:24 AM
OK. It came from you so I am following suit. I'll take a shot at sanding down. If it does not seem perfect and go pretty fast, I'll look at buying new ones. SH!T, next thing you know, I will be buying a wrecked 14 to scavenge parts. This could get way out of hand. but it's fun!
You think that gauling could have been caused by revving to 9K in Neutral. Have done that at bike night a 4 - 5 times since getting the Cannon on there. Just a couple quick zips. -----nah, you have 14s at the drag strip and they are revved to 6-9K rpm with 0 load for ~5 seconds before every launch.
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1badzx12r
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posted August 17, 2011 12:14 PM
Edited By: 1badzx12r on 17 Aug 2011 20:19
you don't have to get crazy with the sand paper ..just enough to smooth the surface.. if the grooves are deep leave them just smooth it out.. i just think for some reason it just ain't getting enough oil .. spend 200.00 on a billet oil pump cover and a high pressure relief valve
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Rook
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posted August 17, 2011 12:48 PM
spend 200.00 on a billet oil pump cover and a high pressure relief valve
mmmmmmmmmm, now you're talking. Spensive but me likes the sound of that.
Not all the caps are exhibiting the wear you see in the pics. I bet if I were to replace 4 of them, it would cost $200.
I think I will clean the one with the least wear up as you recommend. Then do a journal/cap clearance test with that plastigage stuff. If it is still in spec, no problem, it will go back in.
We'll see about the high pressure relief valve and billet cover. Thank you, sir.
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Rook
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posted August 17, 2011 12:59 PM
Edited By: Rook on 17 Aug 2011 21:01
I am about to lift the cam shaft sprockets out. looks like I could run a bungee from the right ram air tube to the cam chain so as to maintain tension. The tension will keep the cam chain from falling off the crankcase sprocket down below.
However, with the bungee on there, I will not be able to place the head cover back on to protect from foreign objects entering head (this job will take a few more weeks before I'm done--I set the head cover back every time I am done working).
Is there any reason why I would need to maintain tension on the cam chain? I mean, as long as the cam shafts and sprockets go back in according to the marks on the sprockets, what dif does it make if the cam chain comes off the crank shaft sprocket down below? as long as the cam chain is not dropped down the side of the motor where it runs, I shouldn't have much trouble resetting it to the teeth of the crank case sprocket --right? or wrong?
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1badzx12r
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posted August 17, 2011 02:33 PM
wrong .. you'll see later that the cam's the intake will not line up perfect with the head due to rotation and valve spring pressure on the cam lobes .. the exhaust lines up with the head perfect ... you'll won't get all the intake cam lined up until you take the slack out of the cam chain by pushing the cam chain tensioner guide tight
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Rook
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posted August 17, 2011 04:33 PM
OK, 1bad. I don't quite get that 100% just yet but I will trust you on that one.. Keep tension on the cam chain and do NOT let it come off of the lower sprocket.
I see there is a perfect place to hook a small bungee right overhead and center of the cam chain. That bracket with the metal disk that the side fairing and tank cover snaps onto. I think that will be perfect. If I have to stoip closing her back up for the night with the head cover, I will just wrap a plastic bag over the open head and tape the bottom to the engine case.
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Rook
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posted August 17, 2011 09:18 PM
Edited By: Rook on 18 Aug 2011 05:24
hate to keep going back to the C shaft caps but I understand there is no replacing caps. You replace the engine. Didn't quite know how to break it to me, did ya, bad? LOL Oh well. 30,000 miles and she feels plenty strong to me. Better than ever. No fear of not preserving the perfection of this new bike. Not no more. Now she goes into the experimentation phase of her life.
Just an idea for me to tuck away for the near future---would you consider putting NOS in this engine if you were riding it? ...with a little beefing up of the engine...oil pump cover and relief valve as you recommended. IDK that I would go as far as to get heavier rods and stuff.
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wrongway
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posted August 18, 2011 07:22 PM
I think I would split the cases to see if the bearings and crank look ok.
putting nitrous on there if the bearings are hurt might take out every thing :-(
Roy
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1badzx12r
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posted August 19, 2011 03:50 AM
Edited By: 1badzx12r on 19 Aug 2011 11:51
quote:
hate to keep going back to the C shaft caps but I understand there is no replacing caps. You replace the engine. Didn't quite know how to break it to me, did ya, bad? .
1bad ain't replacing no engine over a few gauled caps .. only time 1bad replaces an engine case is when a rod has split them into or the cylinder bore is trashed.. everything else is just about fixable ..
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Rook
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posted August 22, 2011 01:18 PM
Edited By: Rook on 22 Aug 2011 21:19
A magnet tool worked well for pulling up the lifters.
I tested my $17 Pittsburg micrometer (from HF) on my feeler gauges tapes and the ratchet stop was perfectly accurate.
everything is marked for reinstall. Now I am going to measure the original shims and see if I can swap ant around to get the clearances I'm after---which will be .006 intake and .009 exhaust.
I see the shims at Dennis Kirk. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/search/search.jsp?resultType=subCategories&searchString=valve+shims&store=Main&x=4&y=9 I'm sure I can figure out which thicknesses to get but What Outside Diameter should I be buying.
^^^Don't sweat it if you don't know. I will measure with my micrometer and that should tell the tale.
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Rook
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posted August 23, 2011 04:23 PM
What Outside Diameter should I be buying.
^^^Don't sweat it if you don't know. I will measure with my micrometer and that should tell the tale.
I miced the OD and came up with .3735" which converts to 9.48690mm.
9.48mm is one of the OD sizes Hot Cams come in. Looks like a large selection at Dennis Kirk.
I also see one of these.
Part #: H14085 Possibly fits your active ride: 2008 Kawasaki ZX1400C Ninja ZX-14
https://www.denniskirk.com/s-and-s/universal-style-high-volume-high-pressure-polished-billet-oil-pump-kits.pH14085.prd/H14085.sku
Is that something like what you were thinking to improve oil circulation, 1bad?
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1badzx12r
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posted August 23, 2011 04:49 PM
this what i use
http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=5032336&showprevnext=1
http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=5079269&showprevnext=1
this is another way to move more oil
http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=5203698&showprevnext=1
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Rook
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posted August 23, 2011 05:46 PM
Edited By: Rook on 24 Aug 2011 01:47
Thanks 1bad. Maybe I'll get all 3. That S&S pump looks a lot more complex but sure is cool. I imagine it is cost prohibitive. They do not give out the price unless you call. Sorta like eating in a restaraunt where they do not put the prices on the menu.
Maybe I will call them to enquire as to pricwe tomorrow---just for kicks. I havce filed away the 3 mods you suggested. Thanks.
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1badzx12r
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posted August 23, 2011 05:52 PM
Edited By: 1badzx12r on 24 Aug 2011 01:53
i don't think i'd run all 3 together.. the volume gear wasn't around at the time i did my mods
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Rook
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posted August 25, 2011 07:39 AM
The 9.48 OD shims come in .05 increments as we discussed earlier. I will be able to switch out 4 of the shims I have to other lifters to make the adjustment. I will need two 2.55, three 2.50 and two 2.40.
I am going to buy Hot Cams refills. Dennis Kirk has them for $5.99. They are packs of 5 shims. I will get 1 pack of each of the 3 sizes I need.
The shims are prolly not accurate to the .05mm hopefully I will get lucky and find close to the exact size I need when I mic them. If not, a couple hundreths of a mm or less will not effect the spec I am aiming for. The shims I switched from one lifter to the other will not be exact either but they are very close........hypathetically speaking. I have not put this puppy back together yet. I sure hope I don't end up tearing it apart a second time....not for a while, anyway.
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Rook
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posted September 05, 2011 08:59 AM
Edited By: Rook on 5 Sep 2011 17:01
Yup, still at it.
Ordering OEM head and spark plug hole gaskets and a couple shims. Hot Cams shims will work for the most part but there 2.55s are too fat (almost 2.56) if I am going to go for perfection on this. Going to try some Kaw 2.525s.
The SM is calling for liquid gasket which will cost $64 from Kawasaki. Any suggestions for a less expensive product that worlks just as well?
Purchase Quantity:
Mfg Part Number: 92104-0004
Description: GASKET-LIQUID,TB1211F for Kawasaki
Unit Price: $64.56
Requested
Quantity:
Purchase Quantity:
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