quote:Re. your last comment "NEVER RUN A HEAVIER OIL TO GET MORE OIL PRESSURE. ALL THAT DOES IS MAKE YOUR RODS, CRANK AND BEARING RUN HOTTER."
So are you suggesting that in my case (running the engine in a car for circuit racing) using 15W50 instead of 10W40 is a bad idea? The bearing clearances are stock Kawasaki tolerances. The reason I went for the 15W50 is due to the constant high oil temperature. Please advise if you think this is wrong.
Thanks,
Josh.
I would be running the rod bearing clearances loose and push more oil thew the crank and bearings to cool the crank and rods. Put in a higher volume gear or run a dry sump system.
Are the back of your rod bearings black and also the inside of the rod big end bores? thats a sign of high heat.
Maybe relocate you oil cooler?
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Y2KZX12R
CompetitionCNC.com
Actually the joe gibbs oil was developed by RCR for cup racing and Childress didnt want to market it and sold the marketing option to gibbs. it uses a mobil base stock and is blended by a third party. gibbs just put his name on it and markets it.
posted May 24, 2011 04:57 PM
MOTOREX POWER SYN 10w60
too many 1/8 mile 1/4 mile to count plus all the runs ive done at maxton mile on number bikes all with the fantastic oil in it and never a motor failure whatsoever
ther is nothing else i will ever run unless they stop importing this great oil
beth told me you have to use tweezers and a magnifying glass to find it and a special camera to zoom in on it .. ____________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
posted May 24, 2011 11:59 PM
Y2K, thanks for your reply.
I couldnt tell you yet as we havent had the motor apart recently. The engine is fitted with Falicon -2mm knife edge rods and MTC tall deck pistons which give 11:1 CR. Valves ,springs, retainers and buckets are all Kibblewhite with 5 angle inlet seatings and 3 angle exhaust seatings. The engine is supercharged with a Rotrex centrifugal supercharger and is currently giving 11PSI boost. When doing circuit racing we run the boost at 8 or 9 PSI to be safer.
The biggest cause of high oil temperature is the exhaust which runs just under the sump acting as a heater to the sump. A sidewinder exhaust is the answer to that one!
Would you recommend I run the 15W50 or the 10W40???? They are both shell advance ultra fully synthetic.
Appreciate your advise. Thanks.
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John Bul Racing. Malta.
posted May 25, 2011 07:43 AM
Yep, that was an Italian works car. Coincidentally it was also running a Kawasaki ZX14 engine. Bored and stroked I think, not sure.
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John Bul Racing. Malta.
quote:ran 0-40 for a few weeks, until # 3 rod didnt agree with it. what oil are you guys using for racing a stock zx14? im thinking about going back to 10-40 amsoil.
posted May 25, 2011 11:40 AM
I've been using motul 7100 10-40 cause I pay only $35 for the gallon and not a single problem til this day..
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Shorty's Performance
Team Madness Racing
quote:ran 0-40 for a few weeks, until # 3 rod didnt agree with it. what oil are you guys using for racing a stock zx14? im thinking about going back to 10-40 amsoil.
Amsoil Motorcycle syn. 10W-40 or Mobil 1 for motorcycles 10W-40 are a little more expensive. I just like knowing they have gone to the trouble to add stuff for the trans being oiled by wet sump not a GL4 or GL5 like my Corvette ZF trans or Posi-trac rear end.
BMW has someone make a engine oil that works in a ZF 6 speed manual trans.ummmmmm engine oil that is GL4 or5 approved? I did not see on my bottle of Amsoil motorcycle oil it was Fat Tappet Safe???
posted May 25, 2011 01:05 PM
I think any 0W oil is way to light and will wear your motor prematurely . I don't think a 1 to 2 HP gain is worth the 4000.00 engine job lol. Any name brand synthetic: mobel 1, castrol , and Kawasaki synthetic 10W40 is the way to go.
I'm using Kawasaki 10W40 synthetic with a quart of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. The stabilizer is excellent for your valve train and and transmission lubrication , not to mention the rest of the engine. Synthetic motor oil also reduces engine temp over convential mineral oils.
Vic
posted May 26, 2011 07:23 AM
With Smokin on this one I run the same oil 12000 miles race every friday no engine problems, usually repace clutches once a year.
posted May 28, 2011 05:31 AM
i ran the less than 0 weight for about 100 miles i didnt care for the way it made the clutch feel and im guess in a wuss but it made me nurvous but maybe it was my mind playing tricks on me but it just made my bike run funny didnt care for it
posted May 20, 2014 03:08 PM
Edited By: cliffrandall on 20 May 2014 23:37
Interesting topic and one I obsess over, with all my engines, bikes cars & sleds......IMO, I think you can run mineral oil or synthetic, it really doesn't matter - just as long as it's clean. I've got bikes that are 20 yrs old and still run like the day I bought them. Again, IMO - the secret is warm dry storage and fresh oil.
Cliff
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