Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 18, 2011 09:50 PM
New clutch-springs or shims
I am about to put drag pack in, toasted clutches tonight at track. What determines whether to put stiffer springs, or shims on top of springs. Bike is 2007 ZX14, 65", 16/43 gearing-
Found out I weigh 170 in full gear.
  
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted May 19, 2011 02:38 AM
Personal preference.
I like 5 springs. Some people like 3, some like spacers, it's up you you.
Start with 5 springs and work your way down if it's not what you want.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted May 19, 2011 04:51 AM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 19 May 2011 12:52
I would get the spacers. I've tried stock, 3 spacers, 5 spacers, 3 heavy springs, and 5 heavy springs. 5 spacers works for me. On a stock motor the clutch is not going to slip with stock springs. But you may prefer a firmer lever feel and it can get the bike moving more quickly, partly because of better control. It really depends on your clutch hand as to what setup will work best for you.
If this clutch didn't last long, I would be looking at how quickly you get the clutch out. At your weight, wheelbase and gearing you should be getting a lot of passes out of a clutch.
Shane
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RICH CRAFT 1
Zone Head
Posts: 681
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posted May 19, 2011 06:29 AM
It really depends on what you're looking for for 60 foot, at your length and weight and with a stock motor you should be averaging 1.40 60 foot times. I think your a little tall on the gear ratio for a stock motor I would run a 16-48. And if you street ride get a 19 front sprocket for street riding. I used to always run stock springs with that set up. And with a new clutch no shams for the first 20 or 30 passes because the new clutch worked so well and then start shimming it as I need. The problem is is the 14 doesn't really make great power under 7000, so if you run a tall gear and let the motor fall under that you're not going to 60 foot good. Some of the smaller guys can run a taller gear and get away with it.
Ken
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Red 06 ZX14 RR
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 19, 2011 11:09 AM
Edited By: Sheard on 19 May 2011 19:19
The reason I am blamming clutch is: started hsving problems missing gear shifts, I figured was me, but problem got progressivly worse, last pass it went into gear, appeares to pop out. I have raced bikes before, I do occasionaly miss a gear, but not like this, it would miss two different gear shifts. I am foot shifting.
I am slightly letting off throttle then foot shifting-no clutch,
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kaw-rick
Pro
Posts: 1167
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posted May 19, 2011 12:05 PM
i got some spacers. $20 used.
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted May 19, 2011 02:16 PM
Sheared, it slipping out of gear doesn't sound like the clutch, sounds like the tranny
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted May 19, 2011 03:03 PM
I foot shift the 14 also...You need to pull the shifter up HARD & making sure your gettin off the throttle enough !!!
I was mis shifting a little bit when I first started Draggin the 14, coming from Draggin the 12 which has a smoother shift change...
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 19, 2011 04:43 PM
Ya'll think maybe I aint letting off enough? My GSXR used start missing shift, right before the clutches would go out. Problem just started last night. I have ran the bike at other tracks twice without the problem. I dont see how I messed up tranny, have raced a few other bikes, and never messed up a tranny before. I am running right to redline to shift, thought it was my boots, hitting funny on shifter, but thing is, it just started last night. I just put in air filter, extensions, and 16/43 gear, cut pan., shinko hook up. Guess shifting about 11,300. I was dragging clutch out hard. I have never raced an extended bike before. Bike never came up. bike is slammed, dropped through forks and strapped. I am two turns out from full soft on bottom setting and 4 turnd from full soft on top setting-rear shock, running 16lbs air pressure in tire. i cut a couple 1.60-1.57 60ft. trying to get otu of clutch by 60ft box, was leaving about 6000-7000 rpm.
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted May 19, 2011 05:12 PM
Tighten your rear shock up, a lot. The 14's shock isn't stiff enough when you stretch it.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 19, 2011 05:55 PM
give me some round about settings please
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 19, 2011 06:05 PM
suspension, understanding of suspension has always been weask spot for me.
My thinking: you want to come down fast, rise up slow. so, to make come down fast, I was thinking set top to full soft, more toward soft. to come up slow I was thinking full soft. Am I wrong? try to learn. is my suspension settings, hold my 60ft back, due to bike absorbing take off, not moving forward? I want to get 1.3 60ft one day, know I got long way to go, but I would think mid low 1.5 are easily possible,
I was just surprised tire didnt try to come up, i know that good thing, but with high 1.5 to low 1.6 60ft, I dont think it good. I may try diff gearing later, but wanted to get this problem sorted out first, so I can get true comparrisons.
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 20, 2011 01:57 AM
anybody got some ideas starting point on suspension? would like to learn
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 20, 2011 08:20 PM
Anybody with some round about rear suspension settings for 170lbs rider? Would the busa rear spring be too much for my weight?
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BLK ICE
Pro
we'll leave the light on for u
Posts: 1709
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posted May 20, 2011 09:20 PM
Edited By: BLK ICE on 21 May 2011 05:42
Turn rebound and compression full hard then back-off a half turn on both. Get brock's .280 spring and spacer kit. use all springs and only three spacers. get a "drag pak" from cycle concept. leave @6800-7100 rpm. pin the gas as soon as you move, and have the clutch completely out just before the tree(snap and slide).You should pull a low 1.4 or high 1.3 60"
ps: Gen 1 busa spring would be the right spring for you. I Have one for sale in the classifieds. http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=3&TID=61252&set_time=1305955680
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Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, N/A Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 20, 2011 09:40 PM
I got drag pack comming, ordered their springs, hope okay, has anybody used them. I am total oposite on shock settings, so I can fix that.
Thank you for your help. I been eyeballing your stuff-sprockets and spring, seen it on psychobike too! kinda on hold with buying things, bought alot last few weeks, need build up some more savings.
As for adjusting settings later, do I adjust rebound or compression first, Guess what I am saying it what adjust affect what.
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BLK ICE
Pro
we'll leave the light on for u
Posts: 1709
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posted May 20, 2011 09:50 PM
Edited By: BLK ICE on 21 May 2011 05:57
The 14's spring is so weak that you have to use to the shock to make up for it. compression(top adjustment) controls how fast the bike falls. The rebound (bottom adjustment) controls how fast the bike comes back-up. adjust both at the same time; they complament each other.
You're Welcome.
____________
Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, N/A Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, Nitrous Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
Bikeland 1/8 mile 5 sec.N/A Stock Motor Club Member.
Repersenting: BLACK ICE PERFORMANCE and NO QUARTER MOTORSPORTS
Nitrous and Tires Sponsored by: Custom Specialties Cycles
Dyno Tuned by: Garron of ADAMS PERFORMANCE. http://www.adamsperformance.net/
BlackIce Performance: Honor, Freedom, Love of Country!
(I am open to Sponsorship and Product Testing and Review. Contact BlackIce Performance at blackice_performance@yahoo.com) or BlackIce Perf on Facebook
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 20, 2011 10:43 PM
best 60ft other night, 1st time out was 1.57 or something. I really want low 1.4's. though getting my foot up in time to shift was getting harder. I am trying to get 9.20's. Need get dyno tune, kinda wonder about map thats in there.
Do I continue to increase toward softness if I get spinning or wheelie, Or just learn to control clutch hand more. Guess what I saying is, when is time to adjust them? Or is there a time to adjust them?
Thanks for explaining to me.
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BLK ICE
Pro
we'll leave the light on for u
Posts: 1709
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posted May 20, 2011 11:05 PM
Edited By: BLK ICE on 21 May 2011 07:09
quote:
best 60ft other night, 1st time out was 1.57 or something. I really want low 1.4's. though getting my foot up in time to shift was getting harder. I am trying to get 9.20's. Need get dyno tune, kinda wonder about map thats in there.
Do I continue to increase toward softness if I get spinning or wheelie, Or just learn to control clutch hand more. Guess what I saying is, when is time to adjust them? Or is there a time to adjust them?
Thanks for explaining to me.
You should be increasing toward harder on the shock settings until it is uncontrolable (spinning/wheelie etc.) than back-up a little. Your clutch hand aka seat time is the key. What is uncontrolable to you now will be controlable with seat time and tuning the bike to your needs. There is no getting around what smok'in covers in "drag racing 101" posted at the top of the forum. If you can, leave the line with your left foot on the foot peg and bring the right foot up after you shift to second gear so that you can foot shift a low 60" .
____________
Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, N/A Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, Nitrous Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
Bikeland 1/8 mile 5 sec.N/A Stock Motor Club Member.
Repersenting: BLACK ICE PERFORMANCE and NO QUARTER MOTORSPORTS
Nitrous and Tires Sponsored by: Custom Specialties Cycles
Dyno Tuned by: Garron of ADAMS PERFORMANCE. http://www.adamsperformance.net/
BlackIce Performance: Honor, Freedom, Love of Country!
(I am open to Sponsorship and Product Testing and Review. Contact BlackIce Performance at blackice_performance@yahoo.com) or BlackIce Perf on Facebook
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Sheard
Novice Class
Posts: 46
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posted May 20, 2011 11:22 PM
I used to shift that way, then changed to two feet down
. I know I definatly need seat time. I am so used to SWB comming up easy to me. I am gunna try suspension settings wednesday, if clutch comes in. I will then try leaving one foot up. Dont wanna change up too much at once.
Reading the sticky note helpde me alot, never realy thought about setting point t on track to make sure I was out on clutch ect, I wanna do some other stuff to bike later, next year prob to make it faster, but figured seat time was cheaper, and more important. Rather be quick with less. kinda like walk quietly, carry big stick. I dont street race or nothing, but kinda fun to surprise people, lol.
I been on track alot, from cars to bikes. But self taught aint always better, plus being on track and doing it wrong, aint helpign either. I have never tried messing with suspension much, except a little with my GSXR.
Thanks agoin for all the help.
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