Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 17, 2011 08:52 AM
 Edited By: Rook on 17 Jan 2011 17:14
PAINTING AND WHEELS
I have the silver metalflake colored wheels that are stock with the 08 midnight sapphire blue ZX-14. I would like to paint the wheels white.
1. Should the surfaces that the rotors and sprocket lay against be masked so as to not cause any slight irregularity in the flatness of those areas?
2. Do the rubber seals by the axle or any other parts need to be removed?
3. I have brand new tires on the rims now. Could I leave the tires on and mask those and the valve stems?
4. Would it be proper to remove the wheel weights and put them back on in the same spots after painting?
5. Should the surface that the tire beads against be painted; or is it best to leave the OEM paint on the bead area?
6. Is there any way I could remove the white paint only so that the OEM paint is once again visible?
  
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3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
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posted January 17, 2011 09:23 AM
IMO, painting the wheels is not the way to go, you will end up with chips and pitting after just a few high speed runs. As for removing the wheel weight, I it's the clip style do not re use it as they are one use. But you can replace it with a new one. And any machined surfaces like the rotor mating face on the wheel need to stay clean and uncoated.
I recommend you take the time to have the tires removed, remove the bearings, and drop them off at your local powder coating shop. I had my local shop do them in silver for 35.00 each. They look great after thousands of miles in the rain and the salty dirty Washington roads.
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08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
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LeonidasZX14
Pro
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posted January 17, 2011 09:41 AM
Are those serious questions?
1. If you paint the area where the rotor mounts it will not affect anything
2. Paint over the wheel seals and spray the inside of the bearings while your at it.
3. Leave the tires and the valve stems so that....well, nevermind
4. Really????
5. The tire will only bead to OEM paint so if it were me I would leave the OEM color
6. HUH?
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09' ZX14
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Hellmutt
Needs a job
Posts: 2013
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posted January 17, 2011 10:02 AM
I'm all for powder coat too, white is tough to clean and paint WILL chip over time - powdercoat will last and its far superior on wheels unless you have them plated
Which means your stripping the wheels down, tires, stems, seals, brgs...etc
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British flying couch with endtables and an orange thumper
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3000psi and falling
Zone Head
Posts: 848
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posted January 17, 2011 10:30 AM
Couldn't painting the machined areas for the rotor cause the rotor to not sit true and flush?? Why is it not painted out of the factory? Looks to me that the area was left unfinished and flat for a reason. Maybe I just hold my work to ridiculously high standerds.
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08 ZX14, 2010 Persimmon Red bodywork.
Flies pulled, 16-42, BMC street, 8" extensions, drag shock, cut pan, Cycle Concepts Drag Pack and springs, muzzy m14 w/ oval can, lowered, Shinco usoft rear, pcv with autotune, leightweight Shori 18ah battery, throttle meister. 500lbs at bandimeres scales with half tank of juice.
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LeonidasZX14
Pro
Posts: 1277
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posted January 17, 2011 10:38 AM
quote:
Couldn't painting the machined areas for the rotor cause the rotor to not sit true and flush?? Why is it not painted out of the factory? Looks to me that the area was left unfinished and flat for a reason. Maybe I just hold my work to ridiculously high standerds.
I imagine that it has something to do with the way the wheels are painted on the assembly line. Even if you caked the paint on in that area I am sure the rotor would still bolt on without a problem. I would not paint down into the threaded holes just because I am lazy and would not want to clean it out of them...lol. To each his own though 
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09' ZX14
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Hellmutt
Needs a job
Posts: 2013
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posted January 17, 2011 12:09 PM
I would think that If you paint a machined surface intended for metal-to-metal contact where the rotors fit to the wheel, it will "shim" the rotor out when you try and torque the rotor down on it - which may allow the outside pad of each caliper to constantly rub since the rotor would be pushed out a bit from it's centerline -- but then again, it depends on how much paint your talking about........if it's caked on with something stupid like 10 coats or some dumb shit, then yes the rotors mounting will be out of alignment with the caliper. But a little fog of paint wouldn't really change much of anything so I say tape it up and play it safe
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British flying couch with endtables and an orange thumper
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Compton
Zone Head
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posted January 17, 2011 12:40 PM
factory wheels aren't painted they are powdercoated.
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b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
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Rook
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posted January 17, 2011 12:43 PM
Edited By: Rook on 17 Jan 2011 20:44
I was looking at the process for checking rotor and sprocket runout and it looks to me like those parts should sit very true to the surface. Have not removed rotors or sprocket yet but if the mating surface is uncoated, I will definitely leave it uncoated.
"5. The tire will only bead to OEM paint so if it were me I would leave the OEM color"
Thanks. 1 valuable piece of info. See, that is why people ask questions when they don't know. If they know, why the fock ask?
Looks like it's powdercoat after tires are worn out. I have not done a single irreversible mod yet. Oh well, guess I could always get them powdercoated silver metalflake again. White will look hot with my scheme but it might not seem like a buying point when it comes to resale.
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Rook
Pro
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posted January 17, 2011 12:48 PM
quote:
factory wheels aren't painted they are powdercoated.
Thanks. I was wondering about that. After 25,000 miles, I have a couple very small chips. The rims still have a sheen like new. Hate to cover over it since it is in such good condition.
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Hellmutt
Needs a job
Posts: 2013
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posted January 17, 2011 12:49 PM
quote:
I was looking at the process for checking rotor and sprocket runout and it looks to me like those parts should sit very true to the surface. Have not removed rotors or sprocket yet but if the mating surface is uncoated, I will definitely leave it uncoated.
"5. The tire will only bead to OEM paint so if it were me I would leave the OEM color"
Thanks. 1 valuable piece of info. See, that is why people ask questions when they don't know. If they know, why the fock ask?
Looks like it's powdercoat after tires are worn out. I have not done a single irreversible mod yet. Oh well, guess I could always get them powdercoated silver metalflake again. White will look hot with my scheme but it might not seem like a buying point when it comes to resale.
I wouldn't worry too much about it Rook, make her look the way YOU want it -- then if someone else complains that much when you're selling the bike, just scuff and shoot with some cheap paint then........once it's sold, not your problem if the paint looks like ass a month later 
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British flying couch with endtables and an orange thumper
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DogoZX
Expert Class
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posted January 17, 2011 09:02 PM
Edited By: DogoZX on 18 Jan 2011 06:11
Get these:
http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=3&TID=59430&set_time=
Have them powder coated... about $600 and yer white, right, and light.
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Edgecrusher
Expert Class
Posts: 256
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posted January 18, 2011 05:37 AM
quote:
Are those serious questions?
1. If you paint the area where the rotor mounts it will not affect anything
2. Paint over the wheel seals and spray the inside of the bearings while your at it.
3. Leave the tires and the valve stems so that....well, nevermind
4. Really????
5. The tire will only bead to OEM paint so if it were me I would leave the OEM color
6. HUH?
this is all BS unless this is an attempt on sarcasm. I don't think Rook realizes this.
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Edgecrusher
Expert Class
Posts: 256
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posted January 18, 2011 05:39 AM
quote:
IMO, painting the wheels is not the way to go, you will end up with chips and pitting after just a few high speed runs. As for removing the wheel weight, I it's the clip style do not re use it as they are one use. But you can replace it with a new one. And any machined surfaces like the rotor mating face on the wheel need to stay clean and uncoated.
I recommend you take the time to have the tires removed, remove the bearings, and drop them off at your local powder coating shop. I had my local shop do them in silver for 35.00 each. They look great after thousands of miles in the rain and the salty dirty Washington roads.
Very good advice right here. Just make sure they understand what surfaces you don't want covered or you'll be in for some work.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 18, 2011 08:47 AM
quote:
Get these:
http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=3&TID=59430&set_time=
Have them powder coated... about $600 and yer white, right, and light.
Looks nice but if I get wheels, I'm going all the way. BST or Tri R.
If I came across a set of cheap wheels that would fit, I might buy them just so I could keep my OEMs silver. Then again, used wheels , cheap----starting to sound not good.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 18, 2011 08:50 AM
Edited By: Rook on 18 Jan 2011 17:04
quote:
this is all BS unless this is an attempt on sarcasm. I don't think Rook realizes this.
Actually, I was ignoring it but I did think #5 sounded sincere. Thanks for clearing that misinformation up which has already been passed on to a thread on another forum and which I will now go to and correct. Leo, glad you weren't giving me advice on brakes. Hope you had a good laugh Leo. You are a perfect example of why a few people out there should never teach.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 18, 2011 08:57 AM
quote:
quote:
IMO, painting the wheels is not the way to go, you will end up with chips and pitting after just a few high speed runs. As for removing the wheel weight, I it's the clip style do not re use it as they are one use. But you can replace it with a new one. And any machined surfaces like the rotor mating face on the wheel need to stay clean and uncoated.
I recommend you take the time to have the tires removed, remove the bearings, and drop them off at your local powder coating shop. I had my local shop do them in silver for 35.00 each. They look great after thousands of miles in the rain and the salty dirty Washington roads.
Very good advice right here. Just make sure they understand what surfaces you don't want covered or you'll be in for some work.
Thanks Edgecrusher. This doesn't sound like a DIY job if it has to be durable. I'll be bringing the wheels to an automotive powdercoater or perhaps shipping. I'll make sure I mention the rotor and sprocket surfaces.
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Edgecrusher
Expert Class
Posts: 256
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posted January 18, 2011 09:04 AM
Yeah, I think most guys tried it with conventional paint when they were younger only to find out what happens the hard way. The brake dust eats away the finish, the chain lube stains, the cleaners to remove both those things dull the finish, and then the next time you have your tires changed the guys gonna scrape all the paint to jagged little edges around the rim. If you can't find some stock that are white, save the money and powder coat the next time you change the tires. Or you could always learn to love silver. 
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted January 18, 2011 12:06 PM
  ">
Or polish the rim section.
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Edgecrusher
Expert Class
Posts: 256
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posted January 18, 2011 12:15 PM
quote:
">
Or polish the rim section.
been there too, lots o work. I like yours looks nice!
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conn-e-rot ninja
Novice Class
Posts: 92
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posted January 18, 2011 06:03 PM
quote:
factory wheels aren't painted they are powdercoated.
Factory Wheels are painted they are not powder coated
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2007 zx14
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CanTour
Parking Attendant
08ZX14
Posts: 16
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posted January 18, 2011 09:48 PM
Hey Rook, I have the the same bike, and it sounds like a great idea to me.
I would definately go for the professional powder coating. And if your having it done professionlly, just tell them what you want painted and what you don't want painted.
And how much does it cost to have the tires removed, remounted, and wheels rebalanced?
How about those wheels of Edgecrushers and Comptons? Are those OEM?
Anyway, if you have it done, I'd love to see photos.
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CanTour
Parking Attendant
08ZX14
Posts: 16
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posted January 18, 2011 10:04 PM
Oh ya, I learned something watching TV- I think it was either Trucks or Musclecar, on Sunday mornings- powdercoating doesn't have to be that thick looking, orange peel stuff, it can be smooth and shiny, just like the paint on your bike. It's some new process or new paint or something.
If you're going to have someone do it for you, be sure you know what it's going to look like when it's done.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted January 18, 2011 10:51 PM
Edited By: Rook on 19 Jan 2011 06:59
quote:
................
How about those wheels of Edgecrushers and Comptons? Are those OEM?
Anyway, if you have it done, I'd love to see photos.
Comptons must be custom powdercoat. Edgecrushers are silver OEM like ours. He just did the old aircraft aluminum paint stripper technique on the edges and left the spokes with the factory paint. Looks good. It may require some upkeep to keep them shining but I lik ethat look. I would have done that myself but I like the white stripes and I think white wheels would look totally bichin with it.
I know the dopuble stripe has been done to death for decades but I always loved that. Specially big fat stripes. One thing I have done to tweak the scheme is to taper the fender stripes down about a half inch at the front edge. I think that helped to sharpen up the cumbersome "fingernail" looking effect you see here. The fender tapers into a full 3 inchers on top so it flows with the rest of the bike.
 
How she looks now.
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Edgecrusher
Expert Class
Posts: 256
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posted January 19, 2011 05:04 AM
I like it. btw what kind of stand are you using in that pic?
BTW my rims are Oem Scarlet red. They look great right after I clean them with the purple power but quickly dull with road dust. I have been flirting with PCing them with flat black hoping that would be a more consistant finish but it might make the grease from the chain stick too much. I dunno, so I'll probably never do anything, lol
Just wish I could find a chain lube that really did what it said and stayed on the chain. It really sucked on my pearl white and blue GSXRWR!
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