posted January 07, 2011 05:50 PM
Nitrous clarification Previously, a wet system was the preferred method of delivery for large NO shots as they moderated the forces to the motor internals that a large dry shot created. What with all the various progressive controllers available, is a wet system have any value? Could you not get the same results from ramping up the dry shot and having the fuel delivery mapped accordingly?
posted January 07, 2011 06:05 PM
A wet shot is the best way to go because it takes the Mapping out of the picture , one less thing to mess up . With a big dry kit it is possible to run out of injector , also if your P/C fried or the map became unstable for some reason you could have a melt down ... IMO dry shot should be no more than a 50 shot , any higher that a 50 shot i would be using a wet kit ..
A 50 shot wet will make the same HP as a 50 shot dry as long as the NOS to fuel ratio is the same ..
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
posted January 07, 2011 10:15 PM
HTP which hold the nitrous record for prostrate is running a dry shot. However, he's running a very expensive stand alone engine management system.
posted January 08, 2011 02:00 AM
Im not saying you cant make it work. but if you want it reliable, stick to wet. im sure these guys dont mind fixing a blown engine. i ran a 100 shot on a completely stock engine for yrs and no problems. the bike went 169 mph with 220 lb unsuited rider. my bike was going faster every pass, and showed no signs of being hurt. If you put a big dry shot on it. please send it to some1 that can moniter everything.
posted January 08, 2011 04:56 AM
Edited By: shiphteey on 8 Jan 2011 12:57
I'd have to disagree with Kaw-rick, I think a more "reliable" setup is dry. Less components to go wrong/fail in a dry setup.
Spraying a 50 you could go either way. What you'll usually find is up to say a 50 or 60 most are spraying dry because its simpler, easier, cheaper and the injectors and pump can still keep up. Once you get into more spray you usually go to something a little more sophisticated like a progressive box to put the power down and I feel its at that point (when going much bigger) that it makes sense to go wet so the bike isn't so rich off spray. At some point you'll need bigger injectors, fuel pump etc if you spray big dry so thats when it may be more cost effective to go wet.
A.
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Gemini Motorcycles
Topping out everything from Ninja 250s to nitrous ZX-14s.
posted January 08, 2011 07:12 AM
im not knocking dry set-up. we use them under 50hp also. just do your homework first, i knew nothing at first about nitrous, read everything i could find. good luck.
posted January 08, 2011 10:26 AM
I only run dry. And ive personally seen more hiccups and backfires using wet.
Dry imo is the way to run in a newer sportbike.
I have 3 fail safes on my dry kit and hit it with more than 50 and never had an issue.
Rpm kill, a/f kill, arm the spray only if it sees map.
Id only do wet on a bike with carbs
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b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
posted January 08, 2011 04:25 PM
i rode my buddies 08 today at the track. hes spraying dry(100 hp) its tuned to a 13.0a/f. been this way a good while now. trapped 138mph in the 1/8. no problems with it. if tuned right is there really a difference between wet and dry? only problems i have had is keeping it down. had a 1.38 60ft. and ran a 5.38@138mph, having to shift early to keep it down as he only has bolt on extenders on it
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2006 zx14, fully dressed and sliding(Charlie Sheen)
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posted January 07, 2011 05:50 PM
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