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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Preferred spark plugs NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
Rook


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posted January 03, 2011 08:18 PM        
Preferred spark plugs

What kind of plugs do you like to use in your 14 and how often do did you change?

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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 03, 2011 08:31 PM        
Stock iridiums every 7-8 k .
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Rook


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posted January 04, 2011 08:13 AM        Edited By: Rook on 4 Jan 2011 16:25
Thanks INTIMIDA2OR. Nothing special about plugs, huh? I guess I'll just get a set of stock plugs. Anyone know if I can pick NGK CR9EIA-9 up from an auto supply -or will I need to get those plugs at a dealership?

Also, will the plugs be gapped properly to .8 ~ .9 mm or will I need to gap them myself?


Never changed mine yet. Here's what #1 looked like about 11,000 miles ago. Seems to run fine but I guess I might as well get some new ones in there. #2,3,4 are such a PITA to get out.


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Hellmutt


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posted January 04, 2011 09:03 AM        
quote:
Thanks INTIMIDA2OR. Nothing special about plugs, huh? I guess I'll just get a set of stock plugs. Anyone know if I can pick NGK CR9EIA-9 up from an auto supply -or will I need to get those plugs at a dealership?

Also, will the plugs be gapped properly to .8 ~ .9 mm or will I need to gap them myself?


Never changed mine yet. Here's what #1 looked like about 11,000 miles ago. Seems to run fine but I guess I might as well get some new ones in there. #2,3,4 are such a PITA to get out.



You should be able to fetch the NGK's at most any "good" parts house, and ALWAYS check the gap to ensure it's correct and within spec.........On all my bikes, I've always changed mine out every other year no matter the mileage just because I'm an anal prick that way..........definitely keep the factory iridiums if I were you, can't improve much over them until you start modding the engine or change out the electrics
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Rook


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posted January 04, 2011 10:03 AM        
Thank you Helmutt. I am very picky about wrenching too but those spark plugs are one of the more difficult things to understand how to get out. I still can't understand how the stick coils come out in #2,#3, #4. There doesn't seem to be any room to lift them out. I don't even think an ordinary ratchet will fit under there to get the plugs out. This is going to be tricky.


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Hellmutt


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posted January 04, 2011 10:07 AM        
I use a low profile ratchet, but only after dropping the spark plug socket down onto the plugs first........then I pop the ratchet in and remove..........if I remember corrrectly, you'll only be able to turn them out so far before having to remove the tool and finish by hand........it's a PITA for sure!! My old Yamaha was the same way.........just takes patience, so drink while doing it
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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 04, 2011 10:47 AM        
quote:
quote:
Thanks INTIMIDA2OR. Nothing special about plugs, huh? I guess I'll just get a set of stock plugs. Anyone know if I can pick NGK CR9EIA-9 up from an auto supply -or will I need to get those plugs at a dealership?

Also, will the plugs be gapped properly to .8 ~ .9 mm or will I need to gap them myself?


Never changed mine yet. Here's what #1 looked like about 11,000 miles ago. Seems to run fine but I guess I might as well get some new ones in there. #2,3,4 are such a PITA to get out.



You should be able to fetch the NGK's at most any "good" parts house, and ALWAYS check the gap to ensure it's correct and within spec.........On all my bikes, I've always changed mine out every other year no matter the mileage just because I'm an anal prick that way..........definitely keep the factory iridiums if I were you, can't improve much over them until you start modding the engine or change out the electrics


What he said
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*Lee*

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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 04, 2011 10:50 AM        
So far the best combo is a 14mm gear wrench and the oem spark plug socket.
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Rook


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posted January 04, 2011 07:16 PM        
OK---thanks again, INTIMIDA2OR and Helmutt. I'm writing that stuff down.


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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 04, 2011 07:50 PM        
No problemo.
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*Lee*

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CanTour


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posted January 13, 2011 10:36 PM        
quote:
Thank you Helmutt. I am very picky about wrenching too but those spark plugs are one of the more difficult things to understand how to get out. I still can't understand how the stick coils come out in #2,#3, #4. There doesn't seem to be any room to lift them out. I don't even think an ordinary ratchet will fit under there to get the plugs out. This is going to be tricky.




I heard a tip once, though I've never tried it: to insert new plug, use a piece of rubber hose- gas line, or something- fit it over the end of the spark plug, drop plug into hole and start threads by turning rubber hose. Once it's threaded in as far as the rubber hose will allow, pull off the hose.
Presumably, this will also work to get them out. Of course you'd have to loosen them first with a wrench, and have room to get the rubber hose in there.
Hopefully that helps.

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Edgecrusher


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posted January 14, 2011 06:41 AM        




I heard a tip once, though I've never tried it: to insert new plug, use a piece of rubber hose- gas line, or something- fit it over the end of the spark plug, drop plug into hole and start threads by turning rubber hose. Once it's threaded in as far as the rubber hose will allow, pull off the hose.
Presumably, this will also work to get them out. Of course you'd have to loosen them first with a wrench, and have room to get the rubber hose in there.
Hopefully that helps.



The hose also allows you to make sure the threads aren't crossed before you start hoggin on it with a ratchet. That's what I have to do with my old VW because the cooling tins get in the way. I never like to just drop a plug in by hand because it may change the gap when it smacks the head or get crud on the electrode.

Also if you can find a socket with a rubber insert or make your own, it will grip the plug which is especially useful during extraction, the plug just stays in the socket, but can be a pain when tightening and the socket doesn't want to come out.

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gilberjj


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posted January 14, 2011 07:12 AM        
I just changed my spark plugs yesterday..... then again, it was after pulling the head off the bike

Much easier that way!

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Rook


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posted January 14, 2011 08:04 AM        
Thanks, gents. All very useful, tips.

Side note: I recently bought a compression tester thinking I might as well do the test in the process of changing plugs. Sounds like I will have a heck of a time to do the comp test before the engine cools off.

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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 14, 2011 09:27 AM        
The factory spark plug socket is by far the best tool. Use it in combination with a ratcheting boxed end wrench and you have an easier job
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gilberjj


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posted January 14, 2011 11:25 AM        
I forgot to mention that I put in CR10EK... one colder than stock with dual electrodes (because I'm running a turbo).
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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 14, 2011 12:06 PM        
CR9EIA-9 is the oem .
I run CR9EIX . Same Iridium just colder for these hot Socal days
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*Lee*

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posted January 14, 2011 02:41 PM        
I now always put a little spark plug grease on the threads. Make it easyer to break loose next change.
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LeonidasZX14


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posted January 14, 2011 02:56 PM        
quote:
CR9EIA-9 is the oem .
I run CR9EIX . Same Iridium just colder for these hot Socal days
I think you may be mistaken on the heat range on that plug. CR9 represents the heat range, all of those other numbers are electrode and ground strap length. In fact I think that the X in that plug stands for extended length electrode (I know it does on AC-Delco plugs). Colder would be like Gilbjj said CR10. Visit NGKs website because I think you may be surprised what those letters mean.
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09' ZX14

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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 14, 2011 03:03 PM        
quote:
quote:
CR9EIA-9 is the oem .
I run CR9EIX . Same Iridium just colder for these hot Socal days
I think you may be mistaken on the heat range on that plug. CR9 represents the heat range, all of those other numbers are electrode and ground strap length. In fact I think that the X in that plug stands for extended length electrode (I know it does on AC-Delco plugs). Colder would be like Gilbjj said CR10. Visit NGKs website because I think you may be surprised what those letters mean.


I had a pic of the 2 plugs side by side but I don't know what I did with it .
But the thread length , and shell type are the same. The difference is how deep the porcelain is . One is deep and one is shallow. The one I got is shallow or colder.
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*Lee*

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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 14, 2011 03:08 PM        
quote:
quote:
quote:
CR9EIA-9 is the oem .
I run CR9EIX . Same Iridium just colder for these hot Socal days
I think you may be mistaken on the heat range on that plug. CR9 represents the heat range, all of those other numbers are electrode and ground strap length. In fact I think that the X in that plug stands for extended length electrode (I know it does on AC-Delco plugs). Colder would be like Gilbjj said CR10. Visit NGKs website because I think you may be surprised what those letters mean.


I had a pic of the 2 plugs side by side but I don't know what I did with it .
But the thread length , and shell type are the same. The difference is how deep the porcelain is . One is deep and one is shallow. The one I got is shallow or colder.

I wanted a cr10 in iridium but either they didn't make one or the shops I went to didn't have it , not sure which was the case but I looked at a few plugs and found an iridium plug that was colder than the stockers.
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14



*Lee*

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LeonidasZX14


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posted January 14, 2011 03:19 PM        
quote:
quote:
quote:
quote:
CR9EIA-9 is the oem .
I run CR9EIX . Same Iridium just colder for these hot Socal days
I think you may be mistaken on the heat range on that plug. CR9 represents the heat range, all of those other numbers are electrode and ground strap length. In fact I think that the X in that plug stands for extended length electrode (I know it does on AC-Delco plugs). Colder would be like Gilbjj said CR10. Visit NGKs website because I think you may be surprised what those letters mean.


I had a pic of the 2 plugs side by side but I don't know what I did with it .
But the thread length , and shell type are the same. The difference is how deep the porcelain is . One is deep and one is shallow. The one I got is shallow or colder.

I wanted a cr10 in iridium but either they didn't make one or the shops I went to didn't have it , not sure which was the case but I looked at a few plugs and found an iridium plug that was colder than the stockers.
Either way with the miles you have on your bike you are doing something right.
____________
09' ZX14

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Fuel Air & Spark
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posted January 14, 2011 03:22 PM        
So Intimidumass plugs arnt colder just a size difference in electrode . What differnce does that make.
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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 14, 2011 04:03 PM        
quote:
quote:
quote:
quote:
quote:
CR9EIA-9 is the oem .
I run CR9EIX . Same Iridium just colder for these hot Socal days
I think you may be mistaken on the heat range on that plug. CR9 represents the heat range, all of those other numbers are electrode and ground strap length. In fact I think that the X in that plug stands for extended length electrode (I know it does on AC-Delco plugs). Colder would be like Gilbjj said CR10. Visit NGKs website because I think you may be surprised what those letters mean.


I had a pic of the 2 plugs side by side but I don't know what I did with it .
But the thread length , and shell type are the same. The difference is how deep the porcelain is . One is deep and one is shallow. The one I got is shallow or colder.

I wanted a cr10 in iridium but either they didn't make one or the shops I went to didn't have it , not sure which was the case but I looked at a few plugs and found an iridium plug that was colder than the stockers.
Either way with the miles you have on your bike you are doing something right.


I stay with what works
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14



*Lee*

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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted January 14, 2011 04:05 PM        
Mine look like the one on the right and the stockers look like the one on the left.
Which one is the colder plug?

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*Lee*

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