posted December 17, 2010 05:20 PM
Edited By: Rook on 18 Dec 2010 01:30
17/45 sprockets & new chain Planning on getting new OEM 17T front sprocket. New Vortex 45T rear sprocket.
1. Can any one tell me how many links I will need to fit this set up?
2. Will there be enough room within the axle slots to allow for that much sprocket diameter? (will I be able to pull the wheel that far forward?)
3. With this set up, will there be enough room within the swing arm to safely run a 190/55 tire?
If it's a guess, please tell me it's a guess. If you've used this set up and know for sure all will fit, please indicate that for me.
Thanks.
Also, any recommendations on brands of sprocket you like, happy to hear that. Driven, Renthal, Stealth, Zephyr, Rebel Gears was another i recently heard of.... I'm looking for light weight and 45 tooth.
posted December 17, 2010 05:28 PM
You're going 17/45 on stock wheelbase? If so, that is a lot of gear for swb.
____________
2008 ZX14
Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference. ~Mark Twain
posted December 17, 2010 05:36 PM
Edited By: Rook on 18 Dec 2010 02:34
swb? Squid with busted-ass? - oh-stock wheel base. Yeah.
Yeah. I'm not at all sure I'm going to keep the 45T on there. But I want to try it since stock chain and sprockets have lasted me 25,000 --miles 3 seasons. If I put 17/41 back on there it will be another 3 years and i'll have a chain too short to go all the way to 17/45 if i decide that's what i want later on.
I think 16/45 is about as short of gearing as can be done on a stock swing arm but if anyone else knows differently, please chime in.
Yup. I know. It's extreme but that's the kind of guy I am. Go all the way or don't bother. Just have to try it. Sprockets are cheap. I like to do my own work.
posted December 17, 2010 05:49 PM
Edited By: Rook on 18 Dec 2010 02:37
My apologies guys. Seems to me if i have the 17T and the 45T on there, I should be able to put the wheel anywhere in the axle slots---as long as I have a long enough length of chain, right? No need to worry if a 55 tire will touch the swing arm or if the sprockets will take up too much chain. Will 150 links be enough to fit around the sprockets and still pull the wheel close to the back of the slots?
posted December 17, 2010 07:01 PM
Just put a cheap 16t on first , and you'll find out if you want the 17/45 combo ! Stock length chain will work with 16/41 and put you at the back of your adjustment and it's cheaper even when you go ahead and buy your chain and rear sprocket too !
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posted December 17, 2010 07:22 PM
Edited By: Rook on 18 Dec 2010 03:24
^^^ Thanks, that's a great suggestion. I can just stick with my current chain which has ~1/8" adjustment left in it (hasn't stretched at all in the last 11,000 miles) and change the front to a 16T. Only problem is then going to 45 T on the rear would be insane. I think It will be too much and I'll end up changing the front to a 17T anyway.
Maybe...maybe. Good food for thought, tnt. Thanks.
posted December 17, 2010 08:05 PM
If you put on a 16t, look in shane's build thread for the part number for the kawasaki 16t that is steel, and pretty cheap. also, if you still want more gear after that just put a 43t on the back, that will work out almost the same as 17/45.
____________
2008 ZX14
Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference. ~Mark Twain
posted December 17, 2010 08:45 PM
I've been running 16/42 SWB which is essentially the same ratio as 17/45 since about 3 weeks after I got my 14 and I love it..........when I need to replace my chain I will probably go 17/45......... you will love that gearing, I think it is a great all purpose ratio.........great for the street, the dragstrip, in town and even the highway!!!
posted December 18, 2010 04:10 PM
Thanks fellas. I am hearing a lot of people recommend the 16 T front because you can swap around dif rear sprockets all the way from 41 to 43 and maybe even a 45T.........all on stock chain length. A big variety of sizes could be tried out. Something is telling me to stick to the stock 17T front.
I have heard the Kaw 16T is for a '95 Zephyr. It has a rubber vibe damper like the OEM ZX-14 countershaft sprocket does. If there is a part # available for the Zephyr 16 T, that should be all that is needed.
posted December 18, 2010 10:53 PM
Rook dont hesitate to go with the 17/45 ratio.........it sounds like thats what you want, and its an awesome all purpose gearing..........like I said I've had 16/42 for the last 4 1/2 years with stock wheelbase, which is essentially the same ratio and I love it. When I need to replace my sprockets I will go 17/45................I think your sprockets will last a little longer with the 17/45 because bigger sprockets dont wear as fast.
After some stretch, you can fit 17/43 on the stock (116 link) chain. If you're just past the 3rd adjustment mark with stock (17/41) gearing you can fit a 43t rear.
posted January 05, 2011 03:58 PM
You won't hear it even with slipons much less a full exhaust and I am not sure you would other wise. But to solve that just use the one from the zephyr that has the rubber damping on it.
____________
2008 ZX14
Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference. ~Mark Twain
quote:thanks last q tonight speedo healer good one good deal ?
Good product. About $115 is the goin' rate new. If you find one cheaper, it's a good deal.
I think mine was set at -13.1 for accurate speed with 17/43. But don't quote me on that. It's been awhile. There's a calculator on the HealTech site, but a GPS works best for setting it.
After some stretch, you can fit 17/43 on the stock (116 link) chain. If you're just past the 3rd adjustment mark with stock (17/41) gearing you can fit a 43t rear.
... and welcome to the forum.
Thanks, Dogo. Been here now and then for some time now. Just figured out how to do an avatar.
17/45 no work on 116 pins, eh? Well, I got good deal on a 130 link EK ZZZ. I'll just try to make it as long as I can and chop some off in the future if I want to go back to taller gearing again. Here's the Vortex. Shore is PURDY
posted January 06, 2011 12:50 PM
Edited By: DogoZX on 6 Jan 2011 21:00
quote:
quote:
quote:will 17/45 go with stock chain
Nope.
quote:if not whats the largest can go with 17
After some stretch, you can fit 17/43 on the stock (116 link) chain. If you're just past the 3rd adjustment mark with stock (17/41) gearing you can fit a 43t rear.
... and welcome to the forum.
Thanks, Dogo. Been here now and then for some time now. Just figured out how to do an avatar.
17/45 no work on 116 pins, eh? Well, I got good deal on a 130 link EK ZZZ. I'll just try to make it as long as I can and chop some off in the future if I want to go back to taller gearing again. Here's the Vortex. Shore is PURDY
Huh? What?...
You knew I was just answering some questions for the newb... you just wanted to post a pic of your purdy new sprocket.
posted January 26, 2011 08:51 PM
When I put my new chain and sprockets on, what mark should I plan on having the chain adjusters set? This a new supersprox 17T output and a new 45T Vortex rear sprocket. The chain is 130 pins so I am sure I will be cutting some off.
I am into sport riding on the street, daily commuting and occasional 200 mile trips(perhaps not anymore with this gearing?). The bike won't be going to a drag strip but perhaps a road racing course. I don't think wheelie control and launches will be a primary concern but I want the bike to be safe from looping over, of course.
Any ideas on initial setting of chain adjusters would be appreciated.
posted January 27, 2011 02:03 AM
That chain isn't going to stretch a lot, just make sure you got room for adjustment.
____________
Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
posted January 27, 2011 07:38 AM
I am almost positive that I will never be going with a larger rear sprocket than my 45T. I don't see there being any need to set the axle way back in the slots to allow for an even shorter gearing change. I'm expecting the 45T might be a bit wheelie prone so I don't want to pull the axle all the way ahead either. My objective is to get the shortest wheel base for cornering and still be reasonably wheelie safe on 17/45.
The plan I had was to go with the axle at the 3rd adjuster mark where I am used to having it on the stock gearing. In cutting the chain, I will go longer rather than shorter if I can not cut it to hit the 3rd mark, exactly. If I have no problem handling the acceleration increase, I will remove a link and try that. If it still feels safe, I'll continue to remove links and test until I get the shortest wheel base I can while still being able to feel comfortable with the throttle and traction/wheelies.
Does this sound like a good plan to you; or do you see me running into any problems?
posted January 27, 2011 08:40 AM
If you shorten the wheelbase as much as possible with the extra gearing, you're bike will be more wheelie prone - but nothing that throttle control can't cure........mid-slot adjustment would be best in my opinion so you'll have room to take out additional slack later and the wheel won't be set in so far either
____________
British flying couch with endtables and an orange thumper
________________________________________________
posted January 27, 2011 10:06 AM
Edited By: Rook on 27 Jan 2011 18:07
Cool. I'll shoot for dead center in the slots. That is going to be a "stretch" going from the third mark on the adjusters where I am so used to having it. But ---Best to start with a longer chain I guess. I will be getting my $$ worth out of the chain tool I got. It cost more than the chain! lol.
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posted December 17, 2010 05:20 PM
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