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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: 2 inlet cams conversion NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
kostasva


Parking Attendant
Posts: 4
posted December 04, 2010 08:39 PM        
2 inlet cams conversion

did someone tryied to put 2 inlet cams in zx14 ? i know that we have to weld the inlet cam to work but is it worth? the numbers of the degrees and the lift says YES

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AcadianaZX


Advertiser
Posts: 530
posted December 04, 2010 10:21 PM        
Good question.
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watthecu


Zone Head
PissingContestHere
Posts: 543
posted December 04, 2010 11:10 PM        
It would be hard not to snap the cam, unless you have a donor engine to clock the cam break needing a hall effect. You need the cam trigger protrusion THEN you are good to go. Exhaust needs less time to stay open with the small valve needed along with less duration needed.

Lift between the two are significant enough to warrant a clay check at the exhaust pocket you Meguyveer the cam signal THEN see what will fuck up next.

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wrongway


Pro
Posts: 1078
posted December 05, 2010 07:01 AM        
I have done 3 or 4 and welding the cam is a little tricky. Even with a tig welder the cams went .100" out and had to be put in a press and put back to spec ....

I am not sure how much I gained with the 2 intake cams on the race bike. I dont have back to back dyno pulls, but it didn't seem to pick up anything at maxton....

I might try sticking one in the stock bike to see if it gains anything.

Roy

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Big_T112


Pro
Posts: 1061
posted December 05, 2010 07:08 AM        Edited By: Big_T112 on 5 Dec 2010 15:09
It's a common practice on the Hayabusa. What I have seen is that the 2 or 3 upper end H.P. you gain is good but you loose some torque down low. For me I am a little heavier so I need the torque down low to get me moving. I had more overall H.P. with the two intake cams but it hurt my 60 ft. which made the E.T. slower. But if you are a fly weight rider the loss of torque may not even hurt you which would mean a faster E.T. And I am talking about a stock engine.
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watthecu


Zone Head
PissingContestHere
Posts: 543
posted December 05, 2010 12:43 PM        
I thing lift between cams are .192"? Don't quote me. But notice BigT said it hurt bottom. Slow do you lose at the mile the bottom or keep it and find 2-3Hp someplace else.

Once again, that is .192" or say half helps and then half you lose some. In other words, you are hanging a speed event open longer on the faster flow out like did it need help you tighten the valve lash chasing MPH.

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kostasva


Parking Attendant
Posts: 4
posted December 05, 2010 09:01 PM        
what exactly iwas thinking is to drill a small hole not from edge to edge and push a small pivot so it could stops inside the cam (no oiling problems) and weld it just a little
the problem is that i have to ask about how the two materials can be married
i think if that will give me 3-4 hp then it worth the try

thank you for your answers

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watthecu


Zone Head
PissingContestHere
Posts: 543
posted December 06, 2010 10:09 AM        
Did you hear mention about taking heat to the cam and now bend the wave out? You more want to preserve stock parts. I glued a bar mount to the 14's outside head. It's been on through cough-cough miles an hour and is still holding after 16k miles, give or take a few heat cycles evolving one wire at a time.

I would not hesitate trying a test [goop] brand bonding agent; would be a testament to that plug holding in place. I'd be the first to try it, you cure it for days if not a week. Measure the gap at the exhaust cam to sensor an shit. This will tell you where to place a steel dowel plug in place you make a test run; glue setting.

Something like this holding the dowel in place. Then you fill over and around the dowel like a cocoon wrap; let dry. The next step is just slice enough glue off to expose the metal dowel for triggering.

2-Regurgitate: See the rivet stake pins glued to the vice? I'd have metal to metal contact of the dowel being cut to size for the distance. After that first dowel being initially held and dried, I'd pour more glue over the dowel and cover it [completely] over the camshaft. Then razor cut only the top to expose the tip for the communication swing. Will it fling off from heat? Only your headache knows for sure you have a clock on the failure/never failed R&D you kept it in too long, 'clang-clang when the jail door.'

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kostasva


Parking Attendant
Posts: 4
posted December 06, 2010 08:30 PM        
my friend my target is to make my motor to work with a power band just 500 revs more(like the zx12r) did you run with a 2003-4 zx12 after the 3rd gear and see what happened? theese bikes are very fast at high speeds. i dont want to put a set of custom cams because i will need high comression pistons and valve springs and in the end i will lose my motors characteristics.my bike is working like a velvet after 35000 miles and i like it
i have a second set of stock cams and i will try it and let you know about this
lucky guys there , here in grecce we are 50 years back in tunning but we are good for mods. last year i wanted to put a set of zx12 cams( they can work) but where is the man who can do this work here?
anyway thank you again for your answers

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