shiphteey
Needs a job
Posts: 2529
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posted September 06, 2010 06:19 AM
Shane, how soon are you stretching that thing?
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Gemini Motorcycles
Topping out everything from Ninja 250s to nitrous ZX-14s.
  
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 06, 2010 06:33 AM
quote:
what pipe are you putting on it?
Well, I have a CT set aside for my bike...but we might install it on this one. If not, it will be either a Shortmeg or M14 with my Area P carbon megaphone. I like the ground clearance of the M14 as compared to the Shortmeg, but I am not sure I can make the midpipe work with the Area P part. And I don't want to have a new midpipe made.
I am fairly broke right now, so I am trying not to buy many parts until I can sell some of what I have stting in boxes.
Shane
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 06, 2010 06:34 AM
quote:
Shane, how soon are you stretching that thing?
As soon as finances allow!! 
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 06, 2010 10:08 AM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 6 Sep 2010 18:09
I mentioned yesterday that I discovered a few "issues" with the bike. Well, one of them requires that I remove the throttle bodies. This is also a good chance for me to remove the big rubber engine blanket, and the Kleen air system.
Heat blanket and Kleen removed (and TB's, of course).....some room to work on top of the engine.
Throttle bodies and Kleen system:
Here is the issue:
When the secondary throttle plates were removed, some of the screw shafts were left in place. I don't want these to find their way into the engine. I am going to try heating them with a soldering iron, and backing them out with some needle-nose vice grips.
We also removed the Throttlemeister cruise control, and the Heli risers came off yesterday along with many other parts.
Shane
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted September 07, 2010 07:19 AM
Why not just remove the shaft? or Tig over the broken off screws.
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 07, 2010 07:28 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 7 Sep 2010 15:30
quote:
Why not just remove the shaft? or Tig over the broken off screws.
Removing the shaft is a little complicated from what I understand (it will throw codes, otherwise). If I can back them out, why take it to a welder?
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted September 07, 2010 07:44 AM
Have you done a leak down to check the state of that engine?
I see allot of sand... 
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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TH1RT3EN
Zone Head
Trial And Error Control
Posts: 722
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posted September 07, 2010 07:50 AM
I am interested to see how easy or difficult it is to back those broken off screws out of the shaft...
Patrick
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There is a fine line between Fear and Respect
When I was a kid i used to........... Wait I Still Do That!
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 07, 2010 07:59 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 7 Sep 2010 16:04
quote:
Have you done a leak down to check the state of that engine?
I see allot of sand...
The airbox isn't too bad inside (I've seen much worse on some strong running bikes), and it had an oem filter. I will likely just inspect the plugs, and call it good for now.
It put out decent #'s on the dyno, which is good enough for me. It put out 8-9 less hp than my motor. My motor has about 2500 miles on it, and a full exhaust, and BMC race filter. So, it seems to run pretty good for untuned with slip-ons. 
Once we start putting miles on it, I will monitor oil usage.
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ThunderCK
Junior Member
Posts: 201
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posted September 07, 2010 08:45 AM
Try using the 90 degree bent needle nose. The striations will give you much more grip then a standard needle nose. They should come right out with a touch of heat.
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14black
Expert Class
Posts: 280
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posted September 07, 2010 09:33 AM
Shane, good to see the bike back up in this thread. Yeah, I wish I had done the flies with heat, as they probably would've come out much better! Hope you're loving the bike, and I'm sure you'll make some nice side-profit from the extras...
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 07, 2010 09:43 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 7 Sep 2010 17:43
quote:
Shane, good to see the bike back up in this thread. Yeah, I wish I had done the flies with heat, as they probably would've come out much better! Hope you're loving the bike, and I'm sure you'll make some nice side-profit from the extras...
I damaged a couple of mine, and had to remove the TB's to get them out. It turns out that it is not a standard philips-head, but a JIS type. I wish I had known that before I did mine! 
Glad to see you are still keeping track of your former baby!
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted September 07, 2010 09:55 AM
I thought you could remove the shaft, leave the servo motor hooked up so it tthrows no codes, then Epoxy the holes on the TB's. I have never done it but had thought about it. I thought the screws were frozen up in the shafts, my bad.
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 07, 2010 09:58 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 7 Sep 2010 18:00
quote:
I thought you could remove the shaft, leave the servo motor hooked up so it tthrows no codes, then Epoxy the holes on the TB's. I have never done it but had thought about it. I thought the screws were frozen up in the shafts, my bad.
There are some additional mods to keep it from throwing codes. I am sure that the loctite is holding them in the shaft...otherwise, removing the head of the screw removes all preload and they should come out easy. We'll see....
Would love to remove the shaft, and get no codes. But the thread detailing it here was really murky, and I'm not 100% confident that the procedure works.
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14black
Expert Class
Posts: 280
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posted September 07, 2010 10:26 AM
Yeah, I wouldn't remove the shafts - I don't think there's been anyone that successfully has done that. I had to drill out some of the screw heads, but I had blocked off the intakes with rags and used a high vacuum while drilling, and rare-earth magnets, but I'm not sure the magnets would stick to those shards because they may not be steel... I wish I had used the HEAT method in the first place!
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dogg24
Expert Class
Posts: 322
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posted September 07, 2010 11:08 AM
When I took the flies out of mine I used a #2 phillips as everyone suggested and heat, but it still seemed like it was wanting to strip out. So, I just used a #1 and ground down the tip and it worked fine. After that I didn't even need to heat them up.
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2012 ZX14R SE, Streetmeg, PCV
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 07, 2010 11:12 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 7 Sep 2010 19:12
quote:
When I took the flies out of mine I used a #2 phillips as everyone suggested and heat, but it still seemed like it was wanting to strip out. So, I just used a #1 and ground down the tip and it worked fine. After that I didn't even need to heat them up.
Yeah, it is actually a JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screw...so a standard Phillips is not the ideal tool...
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted September 07, 2010 11:47 AM
Edited By: dubious on 7 Sep 2010 19:48
quote:
quote:
I thought you could remove the shaft, leave the servo motor hooked up so it tthrows no codes, then Epoxy the holes on the TB's. I have never done it but had thought about it. I thought the screws were frozen up in the shafts, my bad.
There are some additional mods to keep it from throwing codes. I am sure that the loctite is holding them in the shaft...otherwise, removing the head of the screw removes all preload and they should come out easy. We'll see....
Would love to remove the shaft, and get no codes. But the thread detailing it here was really murky, and I'm not 100% confident that the procedure works.
you would lose the cold high idle removing the shaft as the high speed idle is activated by the stepper motor and linkage you would be bolting off to the side with the stub shaft and sensor.
the stepper on the shaft and linkage kicks the primary shaft and flies part way open to bring up cold idle speed.
Good numbers for a comparable bike with 4-2 exhaust !
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Compton
Zone Head
Posts: 969
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posted September 07, 2010 12:14 PM
i have yet to get a code with the shaft removed from my TB.
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b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 07, 2010 12:19 PM
quote:
i have yet to get a code with the shaft removed from my TB.
Other than removing the shaft, what did you do? Do you still have a fast idle on cold startup?
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Big_T112
Pro
Posts: 1061
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posted September 07, 2010 06:40 PM
Maybe you cut the shaft end off and leave it in the servo just flush with the inside of the first TB. Then epoxy the rest of the holes where it went through the TB's. That way on the servo side it would not know that the rest of the shaft is gome. I would really need to look at it but it has to be pretty easy.
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Compton
Zone Head
Posts: 969
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posted September 08, 2010 03:06 AM
i manually have to do a "cold start" crack throttle on my bike since its always on c16 to keep the plugs from fouling out on a cold idle.
here are some pics from my friends 10, which is the same animal,
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b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
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14black
Expert Class
Posts: 280
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posted September 08, 2010 06:48 AM
Shane, how is the color-match between the '06 and '07 upper?
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LAB3
Needs a job
Posts: 2977
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posted September 08, 2010 07:28 AM
quote:
quote:
When I took the flies out of mine I used a #2 phillips as everyone suggested and heat, but it still seemed like it was wanting to strip out. So, I just used a #1 and ground down the tip and it worked fine. After that I didn't even need to heat them up.
Yeah, it is actually a JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screw...so a standard Phillips is not the ideal tool...
Several years ago Wheelie had a post about the J.I.S. screws and I looked online for some good quality JIS drivers....... like a Snap On or MAC .good hardened tips etc. Only found some just OK sets for sale cheep. Grinding on the tip allowed it cut into the angle of the + drive. Good idea if not heating the glue onthe threads. I always wondered why the "T" handle in the old Honda tool kit worked to good when I was a kid LMAO now.
Louis
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted September 08, 2010 08:55 AM
quote:
Shane, how is the color-match between the '06 and '07 upper?
I haven't swapped them yet, but I think it will be close enough. If not, I can perhaps swap my entire 07 body over to the 06. I have a lot of race fiberglass laying around.
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