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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: ballast weight NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
CraigChrist


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BAWLS
Posts: 1043
posted March 19, 2010 08:43 PM        
ballast weight

I know that some people race in classes that won't allow it, but has anyone here considered filling their front axle with lead to replace the weight lost after removing a front rotor? I've been pondering about it a little lately. The track that I ride at has plenty of shut down so when I get back from deployment I'm thinking about pulling a rotor and caliper. I've got a bunch of old lead dive weights that could easily be melted down. I've always heard that it's great to get rid of the rotating mass of a front rotor but that it makes you wheelie worse.

This is just curiosity, but feel free to flame the shit out of me if need be.
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1/8th------5.97
mph-------119

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LeonidasZX14


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Posts: 1277
posted March 19, 2010 09:04 PM        
I personally think that the time invested in filling the front axle is almost pointless. If I remember it was only like 3lbs of lead that you can fit in the axle. I would try and mount something in the 20 lb range on the upper fork clamp somehow. I used to run a 25lb lead pipe behind the header on my 600 and it sure helped.
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eklipse636


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ZX-14
Posts: 6046
posted March 20, 2010 02:00 AM        
Just to make sure I understand, why would you want to take the front rotor off to drop weight, then add it right back on? Is that defeating the point of removing the brake?
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Shane661


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posted March 20, 2010 03:37 AM        Edited By: Shane661 on 20 Mar 2010 11:43
I did, and covered it in my thread on page 50.


Supplies:



Stock axle weighed:



Filled with lead:




http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=40269&pagenumber=50


Be careful filling it; it can be easy to get voids which will reduce the weight. The axle is a very good location for ballast weight, and it can only help. Of course 1.5 lbs. is only going to help so much (ironically, the longer your wheelbase, the more it will help). You could also bolt on a caliper as well. That way you get about 5 lbs. of ballast, still reduce your rotating mass, and not have the additional drag from the pads on the 2nd rotor.

Shane

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BobC


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Posts: 1736
posted March 20, 2010 03:44 AM        
Isn't it better to keep the unsprung weight as light as possible and add weight to the nose of the fairing?
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Shane661


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posted March 20, 2010 03:52 AM        Edited By: Shane661 on 20 Mar 2010 11:55
quote:
Isn't it better to keep the unsprung weight as light as possible and add weight to the nose of the fairing?


For what purpose? For the purpose of drag racing, lower and more forward is better. That is why you see leaded axles, leaded forks, weighted fenders, and sometimes even barbell type weights on the ends of the axles. Ballast is also commonly affixed in other low spots. Also, the way that drag bikes are often strapped down and/or set up in the front, there is very little suspension travel anyway.

For handling, of course you want less unsprung weight.

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Bently


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2012 14r In Blue and no Mods!
Posts: 5428
posted March 20, 2010 05:51 AM        
quote:
I personally think that the time invested in filling the front axle is almost pointless. If I remember it was only like 3lbs of lead that you can fit in the axle. I would try and mount something in the 20 lb range on the upper fork clamp somehow. I used to run a 25lb lead pipe behind the header on my 600 and it sure helped.


That would be to high up the lower the better. I've mentioned in another thread alot of guys are running oil coolers that weigh about 20 to 22 lbs.

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LOCK 2121


Expert Class
Posts: 160
posted March 20, 2010 06:45 AM        
Idea! form up some weight's that bolt on the caliper mounting hole's
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KZScott


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high on speed
Posts: 7235
posted March 20, 2010 01:20 PM        
pic from 08...


i used old wheel weights and steel plate/tubing
just using the leaded axle this yr, trying other means of keeping the front end planted
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