kingtramp

Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted March 08, 2010 06:42 PM
Carrillo Rod WT versus Stock Rod wt
I just receive Carrillo rods today the wt difference is 42 grams lighter than stock rod. Stock rod with no bearing insert, 402 grams, Carrillo 360 grams . Carrillo rod is stock lenght. Well I got the crank from Marine crankshaft +4 mm, JE pistons 13.2:1,. Now I need to order bearings, rings, copper sealing washer for crankcase bolts and aluminum washers for the cylinder head studs. Now for tips or solid advice on assembly of a stroker please provide any input.
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1badzx12r
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posted March 08, 2010 07:01 PM
what did you do with your head
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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kingtramp

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posted March 08, 2010 07:51 PM
quote: what did you do with your head
Y2KZX12R
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smokinZX14

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posted March 08, 2010 08:34 PM
Take your time ... Clean every thing including the oil holes in the crank ... Warm soap and water works best ..On the cyclinder walls use trans fuild ( ATF ) to clean the walls first , follow that with the warm soapy water .ATF gets the fine honing grit out of the honing marks.. . You can not get it to clean ... Get some clevite bearing gaurd a coat the bearings .. You will need some moly lube for the rod bolts .. Go by the book on Tq settings and take your time .. Some say not to oil the pistons and rings before installing them .. I only lightly oil the cylinder walls with dino oil ( very light coating ) I don't oil the rings or pistons .Don't for get to oil the cams and buckets . Take your time !! ask questons if you are not sure of something .. There are no stupid questions so ask if needed ..
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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kingtramp

Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted March 08, 2010 09:45 PM
Thanks Smokin, what are your thoughts on using rod stretche gauge on rod bolts ? I still have to take a few measurements to select bearing colors. Yes I will definitely take my time and ask questions, this has been a rather pricey venture. However it something I love doing so , that is that. Once again Thanks for input.
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smokinZX14

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posted March 09, 2010 09:24 AM
Rod Bolt Stretch Gauge is the way to go ..
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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Shane661

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posted March 09, 2010 11:00 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 9 Mar 2010 19:02
Silly question, but the Carrillo's did have the nuts and bolts installed, right?
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kingtramp

Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted March 09, 2010 12:19 PM
quote: Silly question, but the Carrillo's did have the nuts and bolts installed, right?
The rods I have are bolts only
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Shane661

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posted March 09, 2010 12:47 PM
quote:
quote: Silly question, but the Carrillo's did have the nuts and bolts installed, right?
The rods I have are bolts only
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Shane661

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posted March 09, 2010 01:13 PM
Any pics of the parts?
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kingtramp

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posted March 09, 2010 01:38 PM
quote: Any pics of the parts?
Go to Carrillo web site
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Shane661

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posted March 09, 2010 01:39 PM
Edited By: Shane661 on 9 Mar 2010 21:42
I meant your parts, the rods, the head, the crank. I've seen H-Beams before.
Parts for Racheal's turbo motor:

It's like porn!
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WRECKSHOP

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posted March 09, 2010 06:46 PM
Edited By: WRECKSHOP on 10 Mar 2010 02:47
I hope those pistons are .2mm offset at the pin....You have to use.2mm pin offset on the .4mm stroker crank !!!! Or the Carr Rods must be of a Custom Sizing ?????????
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kingtramp

Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted March 09, 2010 08:26 PM
quote: I hope those pistons are .2mm offset at the pin....You have to use.2mm pin offset on the .4mm stroker crank !!!! Or the Carr Rods must be of a Custom Sizing ?????????
Yes 2mm piston pin offset, 2 ring concept
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johnbull

Expert Class
Posts: 314
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posted March 30, 2010 07:27 AM
quote: I meant your parts, the rods, the head, the crank. I've seen H-Beams before.
Parts for Racheal's turbo motor:

It's like porn!
Shane, are those rods 2mm shorter than stock with higher pistons for turbo use?
I'm looking into rods and pistons for my supercharged ZX14 engined race car but am still confused as to which is the best way to go. Since I often use it for circuit racing which requires constant running for approx. 20 mins, I dont really like the idea of shortening the rods.
Does nobody use stock rod length carillos with higher crown pistons for boost and put in a spacer between the block and head??
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John Bul Racing. Malta.
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KZScott

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high on speed
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posted March 30, 2010 03:06 PM
quote:
quote: I meant your parts, the rods, the head, the crank. I've seen H-Beams before.
Parts for Racheal's turbo motor:

It's like porn!
Shane, are those rods 2mm shorter than stock with higher pistons for turbo use?
I'm looking into rods and pistons for my supercharged ZX14 engined race car but am still confused as to which is the best way to go. Since I often use it for circuit racing which requires constant running for approx. 20 mins, I dont really like the idea of shortening the rods.
Does nobody use stock rod length carillos with higher crown pistons for boost and put in a spacer between the block and head??
Dub?
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01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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Shane661

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posted March 30, 2010 03:07 PM
The parts I pictured are for Racheal's Busa...not a 14, sorry.
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06redzx14
Pro
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posted September 16, 2010 05:09 PM
doing some research. kingtramp how is your bike running? how many miles on the motor? do you know anything about the oiling blockoffs?
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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LeonidasZX14

Pro
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posted September 16, 2010 05:27 PM
Kingtramp,
You crack me up!!!! So now I know what your "little" project is and it sure is'nt a small project...lol Don't worry, your secret is gold!!!! I promise!!!!!
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09' ZX14
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kingtramp

Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted September 16, 2010 05:59 PM
quote: Kingtramp,
You crack me up!!!! So now I know what your "little" project is and it sure is'nt a small project...lol Don't worry, your secret is gold!!!! I promise!!!!!
I am not sure what you are talking about
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kingtramp

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Posts: 121
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posted September 16, 2010 08:32 PM
Edited By: kingtramp on 17 Sep 2010 04:35
quote: doing some research. kingtramp how is your bike running? how many miles on the motor? do you know anything about the oiling blockoffs?
I have not assemble engine yet, for last six months I have been a support for my wife who is going through chemo, so racing is way back on the burner. Hopefully I will start pre assembly this weekend. The only oiling blockoff I am aware is when the balancers are removed there is an aftermarket replacement shaft (minus oil feed holes) that will block the oil feed which lubricates the frt & rear balancer assemblies which are removed when dummy shafts are installed. If I trace the lube chart in the service manual correctly the oil supply for the balance assemblies is supplied from #3 main bearing oil passage way. This #3 main oil feed also feeds # 3 rod bearing. I think this is why the ZX14 is prone to bearing fatigue at #3 rod. If you look carefully at crankshaft you will note FRT balancer is driven by crank shaft balance gear next to # 3 rod joural. The rear balancer is driven by same gear as frt. The same oil supply feed for frt balancer aslo feeds rear balancer & starter motor clutch.
So with that said I removed OEM balancer system and install dummy shafts, high oil pressure relief valve and a thicker oil pump cover(Muzzy). As for results on after market dummy shafts, to this date I have not read or heard any negative feedback. And once bike is up and running I wll post results. Hey Chad know any thing about 47mm throttle bodies ? I heard the throttle bodies work good with 30 + shot.
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zx14fan
Zone Head
Posts: 547
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posted September 16, 2010 11:37 PM
If you use moly for the rod bolts then you may need a different tq spec.Talk to carrillo first and see if the rod bolts should be streched? you want to use the same tq spec with the way the factory put the rods together before they put the finale hone to them.
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LeonidasZX14

Pro
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posted September 17, 2010 02:35 AM
Damn Jim, I had no clue about your wife's conditions. I suppose that would take precedence over racing! I hope she is doing better. I know nothing about those throttle bodies. See you at the track soon.
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09' ZX14
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06redzx14
Pro
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posted September 17, 2010 05:48 AM
thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. hope your wife is doing better. this is a message i got from adam's performance when I asked about building my motor.
"motor labor runs between 1200-1500 to complete rebuild a motor including oil modification and everything"
they won't go into anymore detail about the oil modifications
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06 alien head, no flies, PC+hub, 16/45 44 43, air shifter, dry shot
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kingtramp

Expert Class
Posts: 121
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posted September 17, 2010 08:56 AM
Edited By: kingtramp on 17 Sep 2010 17:01
Base on research I have done in mainly automotive performance web sites, some modification would be:
1) ensure bearing shell oil feed hole is correctly aligned will crankcase main bearing saddle oil feed hole
2) chamfer oil feed holes at all crankshaft journals
3) increase gravity feed oil return from cylinder head
4) increase oil pressure by using higher oil pressure relief valve & check oil pump clearance between rotors&case
5) ensure clearances at crankshaft main & rod journals are not excessive
6) Most important step is ensure all lubrication passages and associated components are throughtly cleaned.
The RIGHTside of the ZX14 Lubrication System is heavly taxed, oil is feed to balancer system. starter motor clutch, counter shaft of transmission, right side of cylinder head leading to camshafts and buckets, main journals #3 THRU #5, rod journals #3 & #4(which are somewhat last in the oil feed chain of events) and the right side is furthest from oil pump feed. So #3 & #4 rod bearings are very much subject to possible fatigue. The engine I am using had very heavy rod bearing fatigue at #3 & #4 rods. #4 rod had actually started to elongate do to the point bearing shell would drop out of lower rod bearing cap. #1 & #2 rod bearing showed some wear however clearances were very good, in other words 1 & 2 rod assemblies could be reused without concern. So for anyone that interested this is the results of my research.
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