KLD
Novice Class
Posts: 51
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posted August 21, 2009 08:10 PM
Rotella T .. sucks
Thought I'd jump on the bandwagon and get some rotella T, I had redline 10w40 in there prior, take it a few miles down the road after the oil change and my clutch feels like its on a slip n slide. Back to something reliable. It was the 5w-40 blue bottle btw.
  
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted August 21, 2009 09:10 PM
Sorry you had bad luck with it. A lot of guys here run it including myself and no problems!
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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KLD
Novice Class
Posts: 51
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posted August 21, 2009 10:24 PM
I don't see how only my clutch slips with that oil.
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 21, 2009 10:37 PM
I don't understand either. It's the same viscosity. Is that oil wet clutch compatible with the JASO specification?
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1badzx12r
Needs a life
Posts: 8321
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posted August 22, 2009 04:02 AM
 Edited By: 1badzx12r on 22 Aug 2009 12:02
I TOO.. think rotella is not a good oil for a bike now .. after 3 oil changes i found my cam chain tensioner to be alot noisier than after i switch back to mobile 1. and i heard that rotella recently had added some new additives not freindly to motorcycles..
____________
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted August 22, 2009 04:12 AM
quote:
I don't see how only my clutch slips with that oil.
Are you using an oem clutch set?
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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KLD
Novice Class
Posts: 51
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posted August 22, 2009 05:31 AM
quote:
quote:
I don't see how only my clutch slips with that oil.
Are you using an oem clutch set?
Yes, its acting very odd. I got on it pretty hard at a stand still a few miles out past my house and It slipped SO bad. Then after a 100 mile ride it started hooking a little better, but I could still feel it slipping.
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Lucky14
Pro
Posts: 1439
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posted August 22, 2009 06:06 AM
Maybe coincidence?
Maybe check the stack height and the condition of the plates before pronouncing judgement?
Mannnnnnnny bikes are running this oil and people love it.
I had it in my 06, for the same reason - that so many people loved it that I had to give it a try.
I found it to be no better and no worse than the other popular oils .....................
____________
You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape.
If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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KLD
Novice Class
Posts: 51
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posted August 22, 2009 07:32 AM
Edited By: KLD on 22 Aug 2009 15:50
quote:
Maybe coincidence?
Maybe check the stack height and the condition of the plates before pronouncing judgement?
Mannnnnnnny bikes are running this oil and people love it.
I had it in my 06, for the same reason - that so many people loved it that I had to give it a try.
I found it to be no better and no worse than the other popular oils .....................
No better way then go from one oil in which the clutch didn't slip to another oil and it did, I dont see any room for error? I got some red line on the way and Ill be putting in some different oil untill then, If the clutch is bad and it slips with different oil we will know who the culprit is.
Edit: The clutch is dead even with the square nipple, I remember reading its suppose to be a little bit above correct?
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted August 22, 2009 08:09 AM
It could have very well been a reaction of the old oil on your clutch plates to the new oil. There are different synthetics, they are not all the same. Whenever changing from one type(not brand name) of synthetic oil to another it is a good idea to flush run the bike with dyno oil just to be on the safe side to avoid foaming. I dont have a clue if the Redline and Rot are compatible blends. I have had your exact same situation happen when changing dino oil on my old gixxer after I first bought it. Local mechanic told me to just change fibers and not the oil. He was right, no problems after.
If you were using aftermarket clutches, there have been a few complaints of clutch slip with Rot. syn in the upper gears on dragbikes with one brand I know of. I dont think those were stock horsepower either.
Acadiana, I am looking at the back of a Rot jug right now and dont see JASO in the specifications. Should it read JASO on the bottle?
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted August 22, 2009 08:11 AM
KLD.....Then go back to RedLine.....
I say when you find something that works you stick with it.....I've been using RedLine since 2002 and there's no way you can get me to try something else!!!
____________
Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted August 22, 2009 08:17 AM
Edited By: dubious on 22 Aug 2009 16:36
Although many have gotten away with using automotive oil in their bikes, there is one thing to heed..... MOLY!
Automotive engine oils use moly to reduce engine wear, and this super slippery substance is not good for wet clutches.
Oils designend for wet clutches usually eliminate moly, and also have anti foam additives for our high revving engines.
Foam in a lubrication system is bad if it becomes excessive, lost oil pressue and flow is the result!
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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KLD
Novice Class
Posts: 51
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posted August 22, 2009 08:23 AM
Edited By: KLD on 22 Aug 2009 16:25
quote:
KLD.....Then go back to RedLine.....
I say when you find something that works you stick with it.....I've been using RedLine since 2002 and there's no way you can get me to try something else!!!
I got some redline on the way. Should I check the clutch fibers/steels before I put 40$ worth of oil in it? Im all worried bout my clutch now :-(
It would be my first time replacing them if I do, Anyone have a link to a good How to?
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted August 22, 2009 08:39 AM
Edited By: kawasakijockey on 22 Aug 2009 16:42
quote:
Although many have gotten away with using automotive oil in their bikes, there is one thing to heed..... MOLY!
Automotive engine oils use moly to reduce engine wear, and this super slippery substance is not good for wet clutches.
Oils designend for wet clutches usually eliminate moly, and also have anti foam additives for our high revving engines.
Foam in a lubrication system is bad if it becomes excessive, lost oil pressue and flow is the result!
We always used 30w non-detergent as a flush when suspecting oil foaming in our diesel engines and I would use it in a bike too if foaming was an issue.
Sorry KLD, dont want to hijack your thread about foaming.
Yes, you need to pull the clutches to check them out. You probably should change the fibers too.
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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CajunBoyz
Zone Head
Posts: 702
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posted August 22, 2009 08:57 AM
quote:
Thought I'd jump on the bandwagon and get some rotella T, I had redline 10w40 in there prior, take it a few miles down the road after the oil change and my clutch feels like its on a slip n slide. Back to something reliable. It was the 5w-40 blue bottle btw.
Do you have clutch spring spacers?? or heavy duty clutch springs in there???
____________
"Cajun Boyz with Bad Ass Toys"
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bigdtd
Needs a job
Interceptors
Posts: 4209
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posted August 22, 2009 12:23 PM
quote:
KLD.....Then go back to RedLine.....
I say when you find something that works you stick with it.....I've been using RedLine since 2002 and there's no way you can get me to try something else!!!
i use motul 300v double ester full syn, would not use anything else. stick with what works +1
____________
2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT
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ruthless rider
Parking Attendant
Posts: 14
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posted August 22, 2009 05:07 PM
right on i spend 60 just on oil I use maxima fully synthetic 10-40 works excellent, I am happy with good oil, I change it myself and it still costs 75 with filter, oh well you get what u pay for
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nicks14
Novice Class
Posts: 83
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posted August 22, 2009 11:20 PM
i been using rotella t for 2 years with no problems, i hate its not working for you!
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hellraiser
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 23, 2009 01:32 AM
quote:
It could have very well been a reaction of the old oil on your clutch plates to the new oil. There are different synthetics, they are not all the same. Whenever changing from one type(not brand name) of synthetic oil to another it is a good idea to flush run the bike with dyno oil just to be on the safe side to avoid foaming. I dont have a clue if the Redline and Rot are compatible blends. I have had your exact same situation happen when changing dino oil on my old gixxer after I first bought it. Local mechanic told me to just change fibers and not the oil. He was right, no problems after.
If you were using aftermarket clutches, there have been a few complaints of clutch slip with Rot. syn in the upper gears on dragbikes with one brand I know of. I dont think those were stock horsepower either.
Acadiana, I am looking at the back of a Rot jug right now and dont see JASO in the specifications. Should it read JASO on the bottle?
Yes, That is the API standard for wet clutch compatibility. Some are having good results with automotive oils. Auto. oils don't have as much of the stuff that goes into mc oils for smaller harder working engines. I have a good piece of mind when in stop and go traffic, knowing that my mc oil is keeping it cooler and will stay within it's viscosity index for the long haul. Some are better than others, but I'll leave that to everyones opinion.
James
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zxbob
Pro
Posts: 1692
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posted August 23, 2009 03:18 AM
Red Line is the best oil IMHO.
I hate oil threads,
Bob
____________
Good parts aint cheap and cheap parts aint good !
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 23, 2009 04:29 AM
quote:
Red Line is the best oil IMHO.
I hate oil threads,
Bob
Amsoil is the best oil. I'm starting to hate oil threads.
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epd345
Pro
Posts: 1494
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posted August 23, 2009 04:22 PM
I ran Royal Purple 20W50 M/C oil for two oil changes and then switched to Amsoil 20w50 M/C oil..my tensioner still makes noise with the Amsoil. It didn't dissapear as someone claimed in a previous thread. Guess I will try Redline next
____________
2012 ZX14, Ceramic Coated Brock's CT Meg, PCV, throttlemeister
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KLD
Novice Class
Posts: 51
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posted August 23, 2009 06:38 PM
quote:
I ran Royal Purple 20W50 M/C oil for two oil changes and then switched to Amsoil 20w50 M/C oil..my tensioner still makes noise with the Amsoil. It didn't dissapear as someone claimed in a previous thread. Guess I will try Redline next
I rode my bike another 100 or so miles and the redline must have worked itself out because my clutch is solid as ever.
But, redline does not remove the tensioner noise
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AcadianaZX
Advertiser
Posts: 530
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posted August 23, 2009 11:00 PM
quote:
I ran Royal Purple 20W50 M/C oil for two oil changes and then switched to Amsoil 20w50 M/C oil..my tensioner still makes noise with the Amsoil. It didn't dissapear as someone claimed in a previous thread. Guess I will try Redline next
50 weight oil might be to heavy no matter what brand. You may have better results with a 40 weight for better cold flow on initial crank up. Are you running a turbo or some type of power adder that would require 20w50?
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Stu64
Zone Head
Posts: 548
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posted August 24, 2009 05:40 AM
Been running Rotella 15w40 for 2 years no clutch slipping here,even hot lapping it this weekend.
No slipping consistant launches at 5500rpm
I have a nice $500 check for winning the 950 superstock class Saturday too!
.
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