quote:getting the right elbow up is for show purposes only, it doesnt make you faster.
wee
It's all in the wrist, imo. If you you can't cock your wrist far forward enough to easily get wfo, I guess it makes sense. But I see a lot of guys with the elbow up, and when they launch you would need a magnifying glass to see the throttle move!
Think about the physics of it...how fast can you twist your wrist vs. move your whole arm??
Not in my case!!!...I need my elbow up AND you can see my elbow go up and down during the shifting process
The reason why I move my elbow with my wrist is because everytime I tryed to move my wrist only, I couldnt get out of the gas enough to go into the next gear.....Yes, I still foot shift !!!
quote:getting the right elbow up is for show purposes only, it doesnt make you faster.
wee
It's all in the wrist, imo. If you you can't cock your wrist far forward enough to easily get wfo, I guess it makes sense. But I see a lot of guys with the elbow up, and when they launch you would need a magnifying glass to see the throttle move!
Think about the physics of it...how fast can you twist your wrist vs. move your whole arm??
Not in my case!!!...I need my elbow up AND you can see my elbow go up and down during the shifting process
The reason why I move my elbow with my wrist is because everytime I tryed to move my wrist only, I couldnt get out of the gas enough to go into the next gear.....Yes, I still foot shift !!!
jerking your elbow up and down to shift is very dangerous at high speeds, not recommended, why didnt the old school racers do this? its a show on the starting line to let the crowd see, im going to whack that throttle wide open in 3,2,1, NOW, hehehe
posted August 22, 2009 08:24 AM
I dont know Wee.....I've never had an issue with stability and my foot shifting technique...
I say it doesnt matter if elbow is up or tucked in.....It's a matter of being comfortable also everyone has a different riding style...
Besides by the tree EVERYONE is tucked in...
Ever see those guys that crawl up under the windscreen and stage like that???...Did you ever try that???...To me that is very uncomfortable, but then by the tree I end up like that as seen in pictures taken of me!!!
quote:if something is a little uncomfortable but it makes me faster, I will do it,
wee
I've watched quite a few fast guys. Everyone does it a little differently. The end result is what matters...
Sort of like using a 48T rear sprocket on your 14 and launching at 7k rpm. Some guys can run your times with less rpm and 5 fewer gear teeth...but it works for you, and that's what matters.
This is by no means a scientific study, just trying to compile a list of what works and how well.
(If anyone disagrees with anyone’s estimates please explain why.)
Here are some things that I have heard that may work:
.10 for every inch lower and .10 per inch longer (if you are able to apply the extra power these mods allow.)
.10 for each 25-30 unsprung lb. reduced.
1 mph for 3lbs of rear tire pressure increase (without spinning of course.)
.15 using fresh mr9 over pump gas.
What do you guys think of these, and what other E/T lowering mods or tricks do you know?
Bump
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posted August 22, 2009 11:58 AM
The gains with longer wheelbase are eventually negated by loss of grip.
The gains with lowering the gearing are offset by the time taken to change gear, especially when footshifting.
So it's not just about changing the set-up, it's more about optimising it.
The best advice when setting up the bike is to change just one thing at a time. That way you can better see what actually works.
The biggest gains I got were from lowering and strapping the bike.
____________
Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
posted August 22, 2009 02:36 PM
I raise my right elbow, and its not just for show. I want to make sure I get the throttle wide open, and once its wide open, my arm falls into the perfect tucked position. If I were to launch with my elbow already down, theres a chance that I may not achieve wide open throttle, or there may be a chance that to achieve wide open throttle, my arm may have to go lower than I want, posibly lower than my left arm.
After I launch, I want my left and right arms to be at the exact same positions, with the right hand holding the throttle wide open.
____________
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quote:I raise my right elbow, and its not just for show. I want to make sure I get the throttle wide open, and once its wide open, my arm falls into the perfect tucked position. If I were to launch with my elbow already down, theres a chance that I may not achieve wide open throttle, or there may be a chance that to achieve wide open throttle, my arm may have to go lower than I want, posibly lower than my left arm.
After I launch, I want my left and right arms to be at the exact same positions, with the right hand holding the throttle wide open.
There are a lot of positions between "elbow down" and "elbow about to cause a rotator cuff injury". I am referring to the latter.
posted August 22, 2009 02:48 PM
i'll go back to before the arm show started, did the racers then not get full throttle because they didnt have the elbow up? its for show! our throttles are 1/4 turn, it doesnt take the elbow up to get wide open, maybe I have been running half throttle? lol
quote:if something is a little uncomfortable but it makes me faster, I will do it,
wee
I've watched quite a few fast guys. Everyone does it a little differently. The end result is what matters...
Sort of like using a 48T rear sprocket on your 14 and launching at 7k rpm. Some guys can run your times with less rpm and 5 fewer gear teeth...but it works for you, and that's what matters.
Shane
there you go, "fast guys" it makes you look faster with the elbow show. hehehe
posted August 22, 2009 03:02 PM
Edited By: Wheelie on 22 Aug 2009 23:07
quote:
quote:if something is a little uncomfortable but it makes me faster, I will do it,
wee
I've watched quite a few fast guys. Everyone does it a little differently. The end result is what matters...
Sort of like using a 48T rear sprocket on your 14 and launching at 7k rpm. Some guys can run your times with less rpm and 5 fewer gear teeth...but it works for you, and that's what matters.
Shane
Shane a 48 tooth sprocket has nothing to do with some one raising their elbow, it is what it is, the majority here are against my 48, run a poll and you will see, want me to bring up the old thread where members said my 48 will not work, said it will run out of gear before the traps, said I cant control the wheelie off the line? my 16-44 gearing on my first ZX14 never went 9.04@150 in the middle of summer, I weight 220 with gear on, watching your video you can here the bike fall flat on its face in first gear, I want to be pulling hard when I get the clutch out.
quote:if something is a little uncomfortable but it makes me faster, I will do it,
wee
I've watched quite a few fast guys. Everyone does it a little differently. The end result is what matters...
Sort of like using a 48T rear sprocket on your 14 and launching at 7k rpm. Some guys can run your times with less rpm and 5 fewer gear teeth...but it works for you, and that's what matters.
Shane
Shane a 48 tooth sprocket has nothing to do with some one raising their elbow, it is what it is, the majority here are against my 48, run a poll and you will see, want me to bring up the old thread where members said my 48 will not work, said it will run out of gear before the traps, said I cant control the wheelie off the line? my 16-44 gearing on my first ZX14 never went 9.04@150 in the middle of summer, I weight 220 with gear on, watching your video you can here the bike fall flat on its face in first gear, I want to be pulling hard when I get the clutch out.
wee
wee
Yes, it has plenty to do with your 48T sprocket...
A 48T works for you....even though it is probably not a great choice for most. If someone gets it done by raising their elbow, that is what works for them.
I just get a laugh out of seeing the elbow pointing at the moon, followed by a 2.0 second 60 foot.
quote:if something is a little uncomfortable but it makes me faster, I will do it,
wee
I've watched quite a few fast guys. Everyone does it a little differently. The end result is what matters...
Sort of like using a 48T rear sprocket on your 14 and launching at 7k rpm. Some guys can run your times with less rpm and 5 fewer gear teeth...but it works for you, and that's what matters.
Shane
Shane a 48 tooth sprocket has nothing to do with some one raising their elbow, it is what it is, the majority here are against my 48, run a poll and you will see, want me to bring up the old thread where members said my 48 will not work, said it will run out of gear before the traps, said I cant control the wheelie off the line? my 16-44 gearing on my first ZX14 never went 9.04@150 in the middle of summer, I weight 220 with gear on, watching your video you can here the bike fall flat on its face in first gear, I want to be pulling hard when I get the clutch out.
wee
wee
Yes, it has plenty to do with your 48T sprocket...
A 48T works for you....even though it is probably not a great choice for most. If someone gets it done by raising their elbow, that is what works for them.
I just get a laugh out of seeing the elbow pointing at the moon, followed by a 2.0 second 60 foot.
Shane
but you have to admit, before the green light the elbow looks cool!
posted August 22, 2009 08:32 PM
Edited By: BLK ICE on 23 Aug 2009 07:40
Jacking is OK, as long as it is useful (and doesn’t hurt your rotator cuff)
BobC has a good point.
quote:The best advice when setting up the bike is to change just one thing at a time. That way you can better see what actually works.
So it's not just about changing the set-up, it's more about optimising it..
As we have many guys here that have tried many mods (some work, some didn't)
It would be useful to know the mods that did work and how well( in e/t plz). I know they will not work for everyone but may put a lot of people on the right track and save them sometime and a lot of money.
What do you guys think of the benefits of: (in e/t plz)
non o-ring chain?
lubing your o-ring chain ?
front tire pressure?
taller shield?
rotation mass reduction in wheels chain etc.( lbs to e/t) and/or (power to weight)?
lite weight oil (such as 0-20 v/s 10-40)?
clutch mods?
E85 or any fuel that yields better result than mr9?
air filters?
180 55 shinko v/s 180-55 P1( psi increase as well as e/t)?
shinko u-soft v/s shinko slick ( psi increase as well as e/t)?
what adjustments in what weather conditions(air/ fuel ratio, tire pressure etc)?
2 step control?
gearing+WB+ weight combos ?
Ceramic transmission baring?
carbs v/s EFI ?
And so on.
I think everyone that has raced has changed something that made them faster.
I (we) just want to know what that something is.
I think this forum has some of (if not) the best owner racers of any collective body of knowledge about the ZX14 and how to make it accelerate.
So I ask you'll what made you faster? and how much?
If your mod has already been posted just quote it with a +1. ( The more +1s probably the more tried and true the mod.)
And if you have found the latest- greatest best thing plz speak up. And if there is something you think eveyone knows but has not been posted plz speak up. ( I asure you someone here doesn't know about it: maybe me.)
Oh yeah, the VIDs are nice.
BLK ICE
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posted August 22, 2009 09:36 PM
Edited By: BLK ICE on 23 Aug 2009 06:58
By the way, with all this talk of wide open throttle. What are you guys using to glue the grip back onto the throttle? I have tried Goop but it didn't work.
I ran my best time (300lb suited, 16/44 gear, 64"wb 6.1e/ts). mainly due to the fact I knew it would not flip over off the line: allowing me to wide open throttle and throw the clutch with no fear. I am currently running 6.4-6.3 e/t (335lb suited 16/46 gear, 65" wb) due to heat, 35lbs,89 pump gas (I always use it for T&T) , and the fact I am uncomfortable with the wheelies I pull in 1st and 2nd gear. hopefully seat time!, race seat, clutch mods, and smaller meals will be the mods I need to meet my goal of 5.99 stock motor before the year is out. All advice is welcomed.
BLK ICE
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posted August 22, 2009 10:18 PM
Edited By: BLK ICE on 23 Aug 2009 07:02
1/8 mile (300lb suited)
showroom stock 7.7 e/t ( first time drag racing, pilot power rear) foot shifting flies in
lowered 1" front 1.25 " back, straped 64" wb 16/44 7.0 e/ts, pilot power rear foot shifting flies out
lowered 1" front 1.25 " back, straped 64" wb 16/44 6.8e/ts cl lock-up pilot power, footshifting, flies out
lowered 1" front 1.25 " back, straped 64" wb 16/44, cl lock-up, Brocks smegs track map, prep per Brocks web site, mr9, shinko u-soft 200mm rear(18 psi) , seat time!, 6.1 e/ts foot shifting with quickshifter. flies out.
BLK ICE
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Repersenting: BLACK ICE PERFORMANCE and NO QUARTER MOTORSPORTS
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Dyno Tuned by: Garron of ADAMS PERFORMANCE. http://www.adamsperformance.net/
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quote:I installed my 48t rear a few min ago (that's a BIIG bitch!) And I can let you know next sat! Shotrened my wheelsbase almost a full inch. I'm gonna take it for a test ride tomorrow bc its raining right now
I look forward to the results.
BLK ICE
____________
Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, N/A Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
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Bikeland 1/8 mile 5 sec.N/A Stock Motor Club Member.
Repersenting: BLACK ICE PERFORMANCE and NO QUARTER MOTORSPORTS
Nitrous and Tires Sponsored by: Custom Specialties Cycles
Dyno Tuned by: Garron of ADAMS PERFORMANCE. http://www.adamsperformance.net/
BlackIce Performance: Honor, Freedom, Love of Country!
(I am open to Sponsorship and Product Testing and Review. Contact BlackIce Performance at blackice_performance@yahoo.com) or BlackIce Perf on Facebook
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posted August 22, 2009 07:59 AM
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