countersteer
Needs a job
Didn't read the owners manual
Posts: 2207
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posted July 28, 2009 05:22 PM
Gas Tank Stuck
rode to gas station last week and couldnt get the tank open - key only turns about 1/4". rode it home and tried to jiggle it open and finagling until i ended up bending the key - sprayed WD40 into keyhole and it did nothing. dont really have the time for this - anyone got an idea to get this open quick? no idea why its not opening, and i highly doubt its vapor lock - im thinking its the white residue mold that is always forming around the keyhole disrupted the lock mechanism.
thanks
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Scott
Long Island, New York
2006 ZX-14, 2003 ZX-12R
   
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14nooby
Zone Head
Posts: 987
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posted July 28, 2009 05:28 PM
Use Powder Graphite. Make sure to spray some brake cleaner in the key hole to clean out the wd40 befor you use the graphite lube.
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countersteer
Needs a job
Didn't read the owners manual
Posts: 2207
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posted July 28, 2009 05:31 PM
im thinking about going to the hardware store and seeing if they can cut me a brass key strong enough to force the lock open - the OEM key is way too soft.
i used wd40 because it is a combustable solvent and dont mind if it mixes in with the gas - dont know about powder graphite. anyone else have this happen to them?
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Scott
Long Island, New York
2006 ZX-14, 2003 ZX-12R
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smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted July 28, 2009 05:33 PM
I'd call a local locksmith ...Let the pros handle it ..
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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bigwil
Expert Class
06 zx 14 turbo stage 3
Posts: 423
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posted July 28, 2009 05:47 PM
happen to me it wasnt locking all the way the locking pin was not comming all thr way out and when its not all the way out it wont let the key turn i messed with it for 2 hr my buddy comes over hits it with a rubber mallet opened right up .then lubed the pin i never had it happen again
maybe it will work for you
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bigwil// going fast aint easy so turbo it
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oldkawboy
Needs a job
Posts: 2125
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posted July 28, 2009 05:49 PM
I've had this happen to me on a couple different Kawasaki's. WD-40 with the red tube sprayed in the key hole and also on the key has worked for me. I just let it soak for a couple minutes and slowly work the key back & forth, not forcing it.
Dan
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted July 28, 2009 06:03 PM
I'd say wd40. The keys at the hardware store are not any stronger. We use to own a hardware store and I've cut many keys..
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted July 28, 2009 06:20 PM
Did you try to push down on the cap with your other hand then turn the key...
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted July 28, 2009 06:41 PM
The lock pins that hold the cap down to the tank are seized from oxidation. Spray a lot of wd40 down the keyhole and it will turn. Mine has done it more than once and now I spray it ever so often when I open the cap.
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Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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eklipse636
Needs a life
ZX-14
Posts: 6046
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posted July 28, 2009 06:49 PM
Would some pb blaster help more with the corrosion buildup? I wouldn't get it on my paint, don't know what it would do to it.
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Best: 60ft 1.351 1/8 5.68 mph 123.98 1/4
8.89 mph 151.32
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FlatoutBu
Pro
Posts: 1054
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posted July 29, 2009 04:40 AM
Corrison shouldnt be to much of a problem with the gas tank. It usually only builds up on locks that sit for extended periods of time. Most of the time you see this on cars with key fobs, people never use the key to get the door/trunk open. We are in and out of the gas tank so much it doesnt have time to sit and corrode up. You might be having more problems than that. I would try holding down on the gas cap and applying light pressure to the key. The keys are very flimsy because they don't bottom out in the lock and only use half the cuts the Ign uses. I'm sure you prob tried a million things and fidgeted with it alot. Like the guys said, give it a love tap with a rubber mallet and see if that helps. If all else fails you might have a bent wafer in the lock. It could have just been stuck and prying on it with the key just made it worse. I have been a locksmith for 15+ years and seen way to many locks like this too count. If you do have a bent wafer you can have a smaller/shorter key made off your org key. You can use this to apply more pressure to lock without destroying you org keys. You might have to apply some decent pressure to get it to turn. If and when it does try your org key in the lock after it opens. If it still works your good to go, if not the wafer is bent/broke and needs to be taken to a locksmith to be replaced....or you can buy a aftermarket cap. Hope this helps....
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06 Blue 14
9.008 at 153mph @ 195 suited
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Bluebyyou
Expert Class
Gettin My Curve On
Posts: 276
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posted July 29, 2009 06:19 AM
If you'll notice when the bike gets rained on or you wash it water stands right over the lock cylinder. This causes corrosion and degradation of the lubricant inside the lock cylinder and causes the little pins inside it to stick. WD-40 might free it up but it won't last as a prolonged lubricant, When mine froze up I soaked it in PB Blaster. When it opened I took it all apart lubed and greased it in the latch areas etc. Ask any locksmith "graphite" is the proper dry lubricant for a lock cylinder. I've rekeyed residential lock cylinders before and know how wet lubes gum up the internal parts and cause problems.
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2007 Bad to the Bone ZX-14 flies out, full Muzzy exhaust system, PC III, BMC race
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FlatoutBu
Pro
Posts: 1054
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posted July 29, 2009 06:30 AM
 Edited By: FlatoutBu on 29 Jul 2009 14:31
Graphite is messy and a little hard to find now a'days. I have a 6 pound tub of sitting on the shelf and never once used it for a lock in 15 years. If your worried about the wafers..not pins...(there is a differance) getting gummy, use a dry spray lube. I use Tri-flow with teflon or any dry spray lube i can get my hands on. WD-40 is a OK lube but not my first choice...
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06 Blue 14
9.008 at 153mph @ 195 suited
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Bluebyyou
Expert Class
Gettin My Curve On
Posts: 276
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posted July 29, 2009 08:02 AM
Yes graphite is messy but lasts. I forgot about Triflow, yes many locksmiths have gone to this product. Wafers and pins are sort of used as interchangable terms and mean the basically same thing. I've used rekeying kits and manufacturers refer to the thinner ones as wafers the larger ones are called pins. Potato, pototo.
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2007 Bad to the Bone ZX-14 flies out, full Muzzy exhaust system, PC III, BMC race
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FlatoutBu
Pro
Posts: 1054
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posted July 29, 2009 08:26 AM
There is a major differance between pin and wafer locks. No car after 1980 something uses a pin style lock. (I think ford was one of the last.) Motorcycles as far back as I can remember, use a wafer style lock. Pin tumbler style locks you can impession (file) a key out for with out worrying about breaking. Wafer style locks on the other hand can be broke when enough pressure is applied to them. That's why I said he might have a bent/broken wafer in the lock. If your turning hard enough to bend the key in the lock, your turning hard enough to bend a wafer. The lock can still work afterwards but the wafer will have a hard time sliding up and down in the sleeve when bent...and if they don't all line up, it don't work.
(You might be thinking about the top-pins used in keying kits for master keying locks. They are the small flat pins in the second shelf of the kit.) I always have to teach people about terminology when it comes to locks. There is a differance between keying,master keying and rekeying....ect ect ect 
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06 Blue 14
9.008 at 153mph @ 195 suited
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