JDC
Zone Head
Posts: 570
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posted July 22, 2009 06:44 PM
 Edited By: JDC on 23 Jul 2009 02:58
I am so pissed...
I've gone about starting the disassembly and reassembly of the turbo, lines etc.. now that it's been on a bit, and working just fine.... so time to insulate the turbo, install the turbo oil restrictor, paint the oil scavange pump mount... etc.
The last time I've been into this stuff, other than the oil scavange pump install, was installing the O2 sensor in the 'dump pipe'. Recall, ATP HD turbo advertises either a dump pipe or full exhaust, your choice....
I chose the full exhaust, but was given the dump pipe.. and reiteriated I wanted a full exhaust..... after a longer story, some extra $, a full exhaust was put on, and not the one I was told I would get (2 1/2" Area P). A 2 1/4" was put on.
Well, I go about today to remove all the tid-bits, and come to the exhaust flange-exhaust pipe, since it is all one unit. I torqued the exhaust flange on the turbo-to dump pipe, when I last put the dump pipe back up. to about 25 ft/lbs.. easy on and easy off.
So.... I'm into the removal... all things going well, and I get to the exhaust flange exhaust pipe one unit that Harry put on.
All of the nuts come off.. and there are a few allen head bolts in place of the typical header bolts and nuts. As Murphy's Law goes, all come off, one allen head very difficultly since it was torqued so tight and had no anti-seizure applied.. and then the last, upper inside allen head. It is on with a vengence.
I have tried about everything I know... a little tightening first, put all back on and snug up and try this one first - via all methods, blah blah blah... heat, smack it with a rubber mallet, hammer..... nada.
My impact wrench, at 200 ft/lbs could not budge it. At 250 plus, with a vice grip wrench on the post, stripped it.
What is so hard about torquing these damn things to specs? and or using anti-seizure if you want a bit more torque?
I am so pissed.
  
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted July 22, 2009 08:22 PM
It is a pain. I worked in a turbo shop for almost 9 yrs. and probably have extracted half and broke half of all the bolts at diasassembly. What would work the best is heating the bolt cherry red and putting a steady pressure turn on it while it is cooling. Touch a candle to it and it will suck the wax down into the threads. I understand your frustration, believe me. It doesnt matter if it is a little T3 turbo or a 12,000 lb Clark turbo with 1.25 inch diameter bolts, when they are seized it sucks to get them out. When you go back together with it all use nickel anti-seize.
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted July 22, 2009 08:50 PM
Sorry to hear your troubles.
Thanks for the heads up though.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Compton
Zone Head
Posts: 969
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posted July 22, 2009 10:31 PM
i've always soaked them in Kroil and let them soak for a day or so and it helps
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b.w.
zx14, little longer, little louder, little lower.
08 Busa, just a little longer and louder and lower than the 14
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1badzx12r
Needs a life
Posts: 8321
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posted July 23, 2009 03:53 AM
oops
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S06nIz4scvI
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Shane661
Needs a life
Posts: 11494
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posted July 23, 2009 05:16 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 23 Jul 2009 13:17
Did you put ant-seize on the bolts before initial assembly?? That is definitely a requirement.
Also, what is the goop around the 02 bung...anti-seize or??
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bigwil
Expert Class
06 zx 14 turbo stage 3
Posts: 423
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posted July 23, 2009 05:38 AM
the tourch always works for me
cramic coat that turbo housing while its off
supirise atp didnt do it
rust dosnt look well
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bigwil// going fast aint easy so turbo it
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted July 23, 2009 08:07 AM
........nothing suprises me anymore.............
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Obba
Expert Class
Posts: 455
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posted July 23, 2009 02:36 PM
Not sure if you're saying the bolt has snapped (looks like it in the pic), or the thread has stripped?
One way i have got certain snapped bolts out has been to (use a centre punch to start with), drill a small 1mm, or 1.5mm hole into the bolt - and go as deep as you can.
I'd cut the bolt as short as possible before drilling, if you can. I've used my way, only on bolts either flush, or 10mm sticking out.
The key is to get in deep with the drills - 1mm and 1.5mm drills don't come in long lengths...
Assuming you have the room to do this. Then use a 2mm, taking care not to increase the drill size to much to quick.
When you get 'close' to the circumference, use a 'reverse' drill bit.
But I've seen people make an 'ok' sized hole and it hasn't budged. I've found it much better to get close as this weakens the walls of the bolt.
Obviously, careful not to damage the existing thread. If you do, drill the lot out, and use a re-sleeve kit.
Sorry, if i've got the 'stripped' part wrong - but from your pic, it looks like the bolt has snapped.
Good luck anyway.
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JDC
Zone Head
Posts: 570
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posted July 23, 2009 11:36 PM
Edited By: JDC on 24 Jul 2009 07:46
error
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JDC
Zone Head
Posts: 570
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posted July 23, 2009 11:43 PM
Edited By: JDC on 24 Jul 2009 07:47
quote:
quote:
It is a pain. I worked in a turbo shop for almost 9 yrs. and probably have extracted half and broke half of all the bolts at diasassembly. What would work the best is heating the bolt cherry red and putting a steady pressure turn on it while it is cooling. Touch a candle to it and it will suck the wax down into the threads. I understand your frustration, believe me. It doesnt matter if it is a little T3 turbo or a 12,000 lb Clark turbo with 1.25 inch diameter bolts, when they are seized it sucks to get them out. When you go back together with it all use nickel anti-seize.
Good info. I think I've come to the decision to drill the cap off, and after removing the turbo, I will use anti seize as you suggested. There are two places on the turbo exhaust flange that use these allen heads, since the exhaust pipe wall is too close to the hole to put on and use a regular stud with a nut. Maybe I will correct that issue as well, and then have all studs -n- nuts.
and using the wax helps for lub when extracting post heating?
Shane. I did not install the exhaust to the turbo, that was done by ATP turbo. On the dump pipe I had on initially, I torqued the nuts on that to about 25 foot lbs... easy on and easy off.
obba,
No the allen head cup is stipped out. The allen head 'socket' was still in when I took the photo is all. Yeah, it does look like a broken off bolt.
Good idea of increasing up on drill size to close to the diameter of the bolt. Since this thing is in about 8-10", at a slight angle, so no way to go at it straight on. It looks pretty approachable in the photo, cause I have a small camera that fit into the opening some. I believe I can just drill the cap off. If I get into the metal of the flange, since it 3/8" thick so, I can just rebuild that with some weld bead when its off.
Bigwil, I'd thought of ceramic coating.... maybe if I can find some self application and bake at home....
I hope to get back to it in the morning!
and if I did ceramic coat at a shop, just the inside and outside of the exhaust/rusted piece? The intake side looks great, it was hi-temp black painted before I put the turbo on.
Check this out on:
Self-repairing ceramic coatings:
What is claimed is:
1. An intracorporeal device having a protective self-repairing coating on a surface thereof, comprising: a. an inner coating component which is on the surface of the deviceand which has at least one bilayer comprising a first layer formed of a first ceramic material and a second layer formed of a second ceramic material different from the first ceramic material; and b. an outer coating component which is on the innercoating component and which has at least one layer less than 100 nm thick formed of nano-crystalline aluminum nitride that forms a water swellable material in an oxygen containing medium.
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6869701/claims.html
blah blah blah blah....... blah...
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mike1024
Expert Class
Posts: 172
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posted July 24, 2009 08:01 AM
quote:
........nothing suprises me anymore.............
yeah, considering what suzuki did to themselves after releasing www.gladiusstyle.com before the release... dumbest thing ever!
d'oh!
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