Learning2race
Expert Class
Posts: 138
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posted July 12, 2009 08:54 PM
New P/B but might need a transmission!
I finally found a gear combo that works for my weight (16/46 for 240lbs unsuited).I went through the end light moments before making my 5/6 shift. Made my best 60' at 1.526 with a final time of 9.530 @ 143.01 MPH. I am extremely pleased as this is only my second season racing and this appears to be a pretty decent time (watch out Smokin - I'm coming for you!)
I have been having difficulty with my air shifter and I believe it has damaged my transmission. It will either 1) engage 2nd gear and stick there (I can't manually up or down shift until I stop and turn off the ignition) or 2) my gear indicator shows that I am in 2nd gear but really I am stuck in Neutral. I believe I have bent the shift fork between these gears and/or damaged the shift drum. I have ordered both parts assuming worst case - wondering if there is merit to replacing the other two forks at the same time?
Kawasaki manual makes this job look imposing! After dropping the motor and splitting the cases what am I up for? It appears that the transmission simply comes out at this point, but I'm looking for real world experience as to what could/would go wrong as well as any "tricks of the trade" on the install. Further, since it's out, will undercutting 2nd gear have any real benefit or is this a modification for big HP bikes (my engine is showroom stock with an aftermarket pipe)?
Thanks in advance for your feedback - expert transmission mechanics please jump in!!
  
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gilberjj
Needs a job
Friend of Fast
Posts: 3196
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posted July 13, 2009 12:39 AM
Congrats on the PB. Good luck on the tranny!!!!! I've heard that several shops will work on the trannys for a reasonable cost.
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billeason
Zone Head
Posts: 711
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posted July 13, 2009 03:14 PM
Check and make sure the slave isn't hanging up. Are you using nos or air for the psi. Tranny's are really tough on the 14's so i would check it out good before you pull it. Give us a little more info and we can tell you how to check it out! Sometimes the solenoid will hang up''so when you cycle the key off it releases. Like i said let us hear a little more ................Bill
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bill eason
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Learning2race
Expert Class
Posts: 138
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posted July 13, 2009 04:23 PM
t's a CO2 shifter, regulated down to 130 psi, electronic/pneumatic actuator attached directly to the ram, shift kill was set at 65 msec (controlled by MSD SB6).
I had a problem at the beginning of the season where I was bursting hoses. It turned out the regulator failed - it would initially set at 130 psi but then creep until the pressure blew parts downline (if I was to guess, an O-ring failed). I have installed a new regulator, hose, fittings and actuator - the only original part is the ram itself. Last night was the first passes on all the new equipment. Previous to the above mentioned issue, the shifter worked flawlessly all last season.
When I was having the problem with burst lines is when I first noticed the transmission locking up. I would get 2-3 passes at the start of the evening (with intermixed gear jams vs. good passes) and then burst the air line. Is it possible that somehow the over-pressurized charge actuated the ram with more force/speed than the engine kill could accommodate (I believe the line was rated for around 250 psi so a large amount of pressure was potentially forced through before the line blew)?
As stated above, it will either jam in 2nd gear (I can't manually change gears up or down until I have turned the ignition off) or the gear indicator shows 2nd but I am actually in Neutral. On the times when I am in Neutral, I can engage 1st gear once the motor has unloaded and the RPM has dropped way down, however in the other case, once it is stuck, it stays stuck until power is completely cycled off.
On the night mentioned above, it was a 50/50 gamble - of 9 passes I went full track 5 times without a problem (9.8-9.5 second passes) however the other 4 passes ended after the 1-2 shift left me mechanically disabled. There was no consistent pattern of when I failed vs. was successful (If I remember right: good, bad, good, bad, bad, bad, good, good, good) I lengthened the kill time from 65 to 75 or 80 msecs (will have to check for which one) at the beginning of the night in an effort to ensure the gear was engaged but this seemed to have no positive benefit.
Bill - I had talked with you toward the end of last season about something entirely different. Since the PM system stopped working, I can no longer access your contact information. If you'd care to call, I would love the opportunity to benefit from your experience. 778.988.9678 will work from anywhere - I am 3 hours behind your time zone, so please give me until at least 9 am your time!!!
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billeason
Zone Head
Posts: 711
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posted July 13, 2009 04:50 PM
Ok man'' It still sounds to me like the solenoid is hanging up. If it locks up but unloads as soon as you turn the power off id look at that real good. My email is wallce@comcast.net and ill give you my number to get this worked out. LMK .....................Bill
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bill eason
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted July 14, 2009 03:46 AM
 Edited By: CrotchRocket on 14 Jul 2009 11:47
Set the kill time on the VERY slow side first...Then increase after each pass you make...
The 14s have VERY sensitive Transmissions and dont like quick kill times!!!
Howabout making a bunch of passes FOOTSHIFTING without using the clutch of course to see if it goes into gear smooth before you open it up!!!
What kind of fabricated bracket set up do you have, that could be the problem...
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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Learning2race
Expert Class
Posts: 138
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posted July 14, 2009 08:50 AM
The kill time was interesting. I had it at 80 msec (came from MSD preset) and started working down form there - 65 seemed to be about as far as I felt comfortable pushing it. One rider regularly shows up with a Hyabusa, and he has his kill set for 30 msec! I can't possibly see the Kawasaki transmission allowing that.
Anyway - footshifting exercise around town went as folows.
UPSHIFTING
Deliberate shifting (clutch lever fully engaged, firm presure on shift lever) at medium RPM went without any concern.
Clutch shifting, high RPM had a few times where I felt a little chatter before 2nd gear engaged BUT one time where I stayed in Nuetral.
Clutchless shifting, high RPM again had a few times where I felt chatter before 2nd gear engaged - never stayed in Neutral.
If I do not maintain firm pressure on the shift lever, the 1-2 shift is very challenging. The other gear changes work flawlesssly with virtually no pressure required to engage the next gear.
DOWNSHIFTING
High to low gear changes all smooth/effortless with the exception of 2-1. Again, I must make deliberate movements and have firm pressure on the shift lever or the gear chatters as I try to engage 1st.
As for bracketry - The ram itself came from MPS (it appears to be functioning fine). The bracket that attaches to the shift lever was supplied from MPS with the ram - it is firmly attached with no interference of full articulation of the shift lever. I had a machinist mill me a spacer that attaches the top of the ram to a frame mount - the ram is as close to perfectly perpendicular with the shift lever as possible. Again, the air shifter worked flawlessly all last summer.
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NINJA12
Needs a job
Posts: 3310
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posted July 14, 2009 11:47 AM
quote:
Ok man'' It still sounds to me like the solenoid is hanging up. If it locks up but unloads as soon as you turn the power off id look at that real good. My email is wallce@comcast.net and ill give you my number to get this worked out. LMK .....................Bill
I'll bet that's it, or the ram is binding.
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