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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Valve check sorrows NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
kawasakijockey


Pro
Posts: 1876
posted March 24, 2009 11:21 AM        
Should have mentioned that oil wont tighten the valve measurement but loosen them if any.
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost

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kawasakijockey


Pro
Posts: 1876
posted March 24, 2009 11:28 AM        
quote:
quote:
Your engine could have been built on the tight end of the spec from the factory and now meets the maintenance spec earlier than expected.


Maybe that's why they gave us what seems like low mileage intervals to check them. I almost put them off for a while after reading other peoples reports, glad I didn't...
Your first mileage check should be earlier because the valves will do their "seat in" in the first few thousand miles. At the first inspection they should all be a little tighter than when it left the factory. I worked over my KZ1000 head 2yrs ago and had to do 2 shim jobs in the first year (I shimmed too close to spec being a cheap ass) Hasnt changed since the 2nd shim job.
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost

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LAB3


Needs a job
Posts: 2977
posted March 24, 2009 12:03 PM        
quote:
I once made hundreds of assorted shims with grade-8 bolt stock using a lathe and a surface grinder.


You do realize that when you make them this way you have removed the hardest

part of the material. I would have left about .004 and heat treated the metal again and then used the surface grinder to remove .002 off each side. For each different thickness shim. If the shims were for the bigger shims that are on top of the bucket where the cam hits the shim I would Not make my own, Unless you
have a Rockwell Tester and make as i described. Heat treating would cost more than just buying factory shims.

Louis

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 28, 2009 02:54 PM        
Ok, got the shims out and measured but won't have the new ones till next week. I was able to use 2 of the old ones in other places.

While I'm waiting, I've managed to get dirt into parts of the head during dissasembly, not helped by working outside on a windy day. What's the best way to get it spiffy clean in there again? Will it damage anything if I miss some? I've tried cleaning some of the parts but the thin film of oil on everything makes it pretty sticky. Thanks!

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LAB3


Needs a job
Posts: 2977
posted March 28, 2009 03:04 PM        
Did you ask the Kaw Dealer if you could trade the shims you did not need for one's you do,
plus a few bucks each?? The Yamaha Dealer does this for me on my old FJ1200.

Do you have a compressor so you can blow out some of the dirt? Plug up all oil drain holes.

WD-40 and let set over night and change oil and filter. Just a thought.

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 28, 2009 03:10 PM        
Yeah, I asked the two dealers close by if they woud trade me and they acted like they never heard of such a thing. God forbid they would help a customer out (my dealers suck). I don't have a compressor, just some canned air like you use to dust computer stuff with. WD-40 I do have which will work well on the parts I have taken off (cams, cam chain tensioner, etc...), but should I spray it in the head?
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reevesmreeves


Expert Class
Posts: 147
posted March 28, 2009 03:16 PM        Edited By: reevesmreeves on 28 Mar 2009 23:18
you should've known got gear ain't gonna give you anything : ( they are probably the reason your shims were so out of spec! ?

we got a group ride tomorrow at 2pm. wish you could come bro! as a matter of fact, i've got a spare bike in the garage if you want to come! : )
____________
06 red 14
06 se 636

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LAB3


Needs a job
Posts: 2977
posted March 28, 2009 03:21 PM        
I hate spraying in the head but you have to remove the dirt. Tape the oil return drain holes in the head install spark plugs and spray WD-40 and blow off with the canned air, change oil and filter. Might not hurt to change oil and filter again after a few hundred miles just to make sure all the dirt is gone. That may be over kill but a new engine is worth it.
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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 28, 2009 04:01 PM        
Yeah I know, I was hoping my suave nature would get me something I guess. Can't come riding though, seems that since my project is down for a bit I have other stuff to take care of ( read honey-do list). I'll give the WD-40 a shot...
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reevesmreeves


Expert Class
Posts: 147
posted March 28, 2009 04:58 PM        
i learned a couple weekends ago that if you've got rust on your chain from riding in wet conditions that wd40 will make the chain look like new! fyi the chain on the 6 was tarnished and rusting from riding in the rain. now it looks like i just put it on the bike! minus the huge amount chain has stretched : ) sorry for getting off topic simon!
____________
06 red 14
06 se 636

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