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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Valve check sorrows NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 23, 2009 04:59 PM        
Valve check sorrows

Just checked the valve clearances on my 14 and its looking like I'll be changing 14 of the 16 shims 9 of them were tight and 5 were minimum "in spec" clearances. Sucks for me I guess. Haven't pulled the cams and shims yet cause I ran out of daylight so will prob do that saturday. Any tips for that part are welcome...

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 23, 2009 05:40 PM        
Also, has anyone else had this many out of spec? I was suprised because most of the reports I have seen said that they are usually within normals, and I don't even ride it hard most of the time.
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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted March 23, 2009 05:41 PM        
How many miles on ur machine?
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dubious


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posted March 23, 2009 05:49 PM        
They don't wear from hard riding... make sure your idle is at least 1100 rpm so the top end is getting oil.
Run the oil at 1/2 to 3/4 up the glass...
Not dissing ya...you may already know this... just tryin to help.
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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 23, 2009 06:14 PM        
It's got about 16,500 miles on it. I adjust the idle as needed, usually aim for 1200 rpm, but I do have the oil nearly to the top of the glass. Speaking of idle speed, I have noticed that as it warms up, just after the high idle part, it drops to about 900 rpm for about 3 minutes, then picks back up to ~1200 as it runs more. Could that cause a problem? Thanks!
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dubious


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posted March 23, 2009 06:41 PM        
I doubt it would casue problems , but I have always ridden mine while it warms up, with out putting a load on it or revving it till its warm.

When you shim the valves take a good look at the cam lobes, especially where they are lifting the valve... check for wear.. if you can feel ridges with the back of your fingernail, its showing signes of wear. The top of the lobes usually wear at an accelerated rate to the rst of the lobe, as thats when they are seeing full spring pressure.


I got off on a tangent, the valves and seats wearing causes tight valves, cam wear will show loose valves... SORRY to confuse anyone.

16,000 miles isn't too bad actually. ... IMO

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kawasakijockey


Pro
Posts: 1876
posted March 23, 2009 07:21 PM        
Dont buy the 14 shims yet. You can juggle the shims around to where you use quite a few of them, then buy the remainder.
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9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 23, 2009 07:33 PM        
Yeah, hopefully I won't have to buy all 14 at $12 a piece! I may have time to pull the cams tomorrow so we'll see...

Thanks for the info so far guys! When I pull the cams and the buckets, are the shims held in the buckets somehow or will they potentially fall out, or what should I expect to see?

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bigtallguy


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Posts: 86
posted March 23, 2009 07:35 PM        
Oh, and do you guys measure the shims or just go by the number on it?
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smokinZX14


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posted March 23, 2009 07:40 PM        
quote:
Oh, and do you guys measure the shims or just go by the number on it?
Both just in case ...
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LAB3


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posted March 23, 2009 07:51 PM        
Some Dealerships use to swap shims for the one's you need and charge you just
a few dollars each. My friend just had his 06 checked with almost 19,000 miles.

None needed to be changed,,,,,, He changes his oil every 3000 and it gets ridden fast.

Have you hit the rev limiter very many times? Odd that so many were out of spec. Tight??

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bigtallguy


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Posts: 86
posted March 23, 2009 08:18 PM        Edited By: bigtallguy on 24 Mar 2009 04:22
I change my oil every 3,000 as well. Never hit the rev limiter, use it mostly to commute and occasional long distance trips. Most were tight, here's the actual measurements:

Intake
0.15----0.1----0.15----0.15----0.15----0.15----0.13----0.1

Exhaust
0.21----0.2----0.23----0.2----0.2----0.24----0.2----0.2


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blackbullet76


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posted March 23, 2009 08:57 PM        
I haven't hit that mileage number yet on my 14 for the valves to be checked. I did however do the ones on my 01 ZX6R I used to have. It had around 14,000 when I did it and most were out of spec. Spent like $180 on those bitches, but I felt good afterwards knowing my bike was in spec and I did the work myself.
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Old Guy


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Posts: 470
posted March 23, 2009 11:11 PM        Edited By: Old Guy on 24 Mar 2009 07:15
Dont need to buy all the shims. Just switch them around and get the ones you need.
It will probably be hard to read the numbers on them as the valve stem wipes part of them off.
You are gonna have to measure them anyway.
good calipers will work.
a little tackle/bead/hobby/pill box is handy for keeping them sorted.
Used to have all sorts of shims for old 900's.
I checked at about 8k miles, only needed one.
gonna need to be organized bro. sounds like you are.
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INTIMIDA2OR


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posted March 24, 2009 02:27 AM        
quote:
I change my oil every 3,000 as well. Never hit the rev limiter, use it mostly to commute and occasional long distance trips. Most were tight, here's the actual measurements:

Intake
0.15----0.1----0.15----0.15----0.15----0.15----0.13----0.1

Exhaust
0.21----0.2----0.23----0.2----0.2----0.24----0.2----0.2




Wow all your exhaust valves are way tight!
I'm at 45,000 and just now are my valves starting to tighten up... still don't need adjusting lol.
I guess motors are not to be created equal
I wonder if running synthetic after my 1st oil change makes a difference?
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kawasakijockey


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Posts: 1876
posted March 24, 2009 06:10 AM        
Nah, the exhaust valves tend to beat in to the seat more which tightens them up. Not an oil type issue but definately can be fuel related.
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost

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reevesmreeves


Expert Class
Posts: 147
posted March 24, 2009 09:28 AM        
simon, what type of oil and what gas are you using?

i'm still at 11.5k miles on the 14. the 6 only has 7k miles on it. so i've been riding it more often.
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cajunboyz


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Posts: 702
posted March 24, 2009 09:32 AM        
quote:
Nah, the exhaust valves tend to beat in to the seat more which tightens them up. Not an oil type issue but definately can be fuel related.


What you mean by fuel related?? to Lean???? or ???
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dattaway2


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posted March 24, 2009 09:58 AM        
I once made hundreds of assorted shims with grade-8 bolt stock using a lathe and a surface grinder.
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kawasakijockey


Pro
Posts: 1876
posted March 24, 2009 10:32 AM        
quote:
quote:
Nah, the exhaust valves tend to beat in to the seat more which tightens them up. Not an oil type issue but definately can be fuel related.


What you mean by fuel related?? to Lean???? or ???
Just like on the old gasoline commercials. Poor quality fuel erodes the valve seat margin which tightens the valves.
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 24, 2009 10:34 AM        
Been using rotella 5-40 synthetic and premium gas. Don't think anything I'm doing or not doing caused them to be tight, just luck of the draw I suppose. The only aftermarket parts related to the engine are my Leo Vince slip-ons, wouldn't think I was running too lean with just those but maybe??
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reevesmreeves


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Posts: 147
posted March 24, 2009 10:39 AM        Edited By: reevesmreeves on 24 Mar 2009 18:41
same here bro, just curious.

have you thought about using the 15w-40 for summer use? it's only $12 a gal. at advanced!
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06 se 636

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kawasakijockey


Pro
Posts: 1876
posted March 24, 2009 11:02 AM        
quote:
Been using rotella 5-40 synthetic and premium gas. Don't think anything I'm doing or not doing caused them to be tight, just luck of the draw I suppose. The only aftermarket parts related to the engine are my Leo Vince slip-ons, wouldn't think I was running too lean with just those but maybe??
Your engine could have been built on the tight end of the spec from the factory and now meets the maintenance spec earlier than expected. You would have to lug the engine down to where it pings alot to erode the valve seat. Thats why it is considered a poor quality fuel trait. If it would happen to be an oil related issue you could see it on the valve stem. It looks like very tiny chip marks around the edge. I run the same oil so I hope it wouldnt be an oil issue, rare. Moisture in the oil supposedly can do that to the valve stem. Seen on car valves but not bikes.
____________
Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 24, 2009 11:16 AM        
I have thought about switching to a heavier weight for summer, but last time I did that was when my knock showed up and I was without bike for 2 months, so I get nervous doing that again even though it is most likely unrelated.

Looks like I won't be pulling the shims till saturday cause I gotta work tonight and don't want to be in the middle of it when I need to be leaving.

Thanks for the replies so far!

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bigtallguy


Novice Class
Posts: 86
posted March 24, 2009 11:20 AM        
quote:
Your engine could have been built on the tight end of the spec from the factory and now meets the maintenance spec earlier than expected.


Maybe that's why they gave us what seems like low mileage intervals to check them. I almost put them off for a while after reading other peoples reports, glad I didn't...

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