BLK ICE
Pro
we'll leave the light on for u
Posts: 1709
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posted March 25, 2009 05:47 PM
9000ish MILEs Put Brocks s-meg on and had fairings off so I figured why not.
Plugs looked great, installed new NGK CR9EIX iridium ix anyway.
Couldn't tell any difference in the way the motorcycle idled or sounded.
But the S-MEG made the ZX14 pull like a SOB! all the way to red line! 
I kept the old plugs for hard times.
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Fastest Stock Motor, Stock Bodywork, Hand Clutch, N/A Super Heavy Hitter on the Planet!
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zerotahero
Novice Class
Posts: 89
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posted March 25, 2009 07:37 PM
where are they at? i have tried to look for them and i dont spot them. what do you have to pull to get to them?
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Douglas Home
Zone Head
Posts: 710
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posted March 26, 2009 02:03 AM
I heard someone saying to use sparkplug grease , do you guys use it ? If so is it
a specific type or just a high temp. grease. Also what plugs do you recomend with a 40 dry shot? Also when checking the plugs when I first get my nitrous going is it OK to just check one plug? Im spraying inthe ram air tubes before the air filter. I have a lot to learn but do my own work, thanks for any advice. Doug
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Doug Mackay Australia
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Bluebyyou
Expert Class
Gettin My Curve On
Posts: 276
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posted March 26, 2009 02:52 AM
 Edited By: Bluebyyou on 26 Mar 2009 14:46
quote:
how hard is it to change them??? we were looking last week while the tank was off and i dont see a way to do it.... must be just me, out of curiosity i called the dealer and they watn $200 labor... i knew it would be high, but it is possible to do it without any special tools? i have 6,700 miles, and with me not runnin a pc for quite a few of those miles, im figuring its getting time to look into changing them
YOU ABSOLUTELY DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE FUEL TANK. It is very tight but doable.
1. Remove tupperware
2. Push release tab and unplug wiring connector from coil stick (to avoid confusion do one plug replacement at a time)
3. Gently and carefully pry up coil stick from plug well
4. Remove swivel plug wrench from bikes toolkit and use it to remove sparkplugs
5. Reinstall plugs snugly, push coil stick back down completely, reconnect wiring to coil sticks push on until you hear a click for confirmation.
6. Fire up bike and make sure it runs right then reassemble tupperware
The one on the extreme left is a knuckle buster but doable.
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2007 Bad to the Bone ZX-14 flies out, full Muzzy exhaust system, PC III, BMC race
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted March 26, 2009 06:19 AM
Edited By: dubious on 26 Mar 2009 14:31
quote:
I heard someone saying to use sparkplug grease , do you guys use it ? If so is it
a specific type or just a high temp. grease. Also what plugs do you recomend with a 40 dry shot? Also when checking the plugs when I first get my nitrous going is it OK to just check one plug? Im spraying inthe ram air tubes before the air filter. I have a lot to learn but do my own work, thanks for any advice. Doug
I use anitseize or small ammount of copper coat to prevent plug thread galling ... head is aluminum, plugs are iron...dissimilar metals like to corrode, and aluminum is softer than steel...so you know what will wear out or strip out 1st.... the head.
I have had automotive plugs stick a hole, and have stripped the threads when taking the plug out before, hard lesson learned the hard way. (first plug change ever on that car by BTW, so it was not me who over tighten or installed them dry)
I use dielectric grease inside the boots, and a little shot of wd 40 on the outside...
dielectric grease seals the connection in the cap, conducts electricity and will prevent spark scatter, or leakage.
Both make getting the coil stocks easier to get on, or off in the future.
Some engines it is easier to push a length of rubber hose over end of plug then turn the hose, it will thread the plug in, that way your hand is not in vaccininty... less knuckle busting
ALL OF THIS IS PROBABLY NOT NECESSARY, BUT i AM SUPER ANAL ABOUT THE BIKE
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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