Rook
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posted March 21, 2009 08:16 PM
 Edited By: Rook on 22 Mar 2009 04:16
Efflouressing brake line fittings
I noticed some whitish specks on the fitting where the brake line hooks onto the rear brake caliper housing. Seems a little worse after winter storage and I'm seeing it starting to form on the nipple with the rubber cap, too. I even see a white speckle up on that shiny plate which is part of the rear brake. It's really not that noticeable but it seems to be getting progressively worse as time goes on.
I assume this efflouressence is being caused by minute seepage of brake fluid which is pretty corrosive stuff. Can anyone tell me if the seepage is normal? Any way to avoid further deterioration?
Rook
  
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dubious
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posted March 21, 2009 08:33 PM
you sure its not just corroding from the elements?
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Ninja14
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posted March 21, 2009 08:34 PM
Edited By: Ninja14 on 22 Mar 2009 04:35
Should not leak.....and it won't just go away.
You will need to pull and reseal if you want to be sure to stop it.......
Post a pic.......
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Rook
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posted March 21, 2009 09:04 PM
quote:
you sure its not just corroding from the elements?
Pretty sure it is not just stones and junk bouncing up and scratching the thin matt black paint. I'm pretty sure I saw a heavy deposit on that rubber capped nipple so I believe it's break fluid. I will have to take some pics and post so you guys can see what I'm talking about.
I have not changed brake fluid yet and there has been no discernable decrease in the fluid level.
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Rook
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posted March 21, 2009 09:10 PM
quote:
Should not leak.....and it won't just go away.
You will need to pull and reseal if you want to be sure to stop it.......
Oh boy ---- - sounds like it could be a weekend shot in the rs.
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Ninja14
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posted March 21, 2009 10:35 PM
Who needs a rear brake anyway............
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dubious
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posted March 21, 2009 10:42 PM
Post a pic Rook.
If its the banjo its as simple as taking the line off, putting new washers on it and refilling and bleeding the system
Mighty vac is the best way to bleed...
if the bike is still under warantee, they might do it for you.
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Rook
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posted March 22, 2009 06:46 AM
Edited By: Rook on 22 Mar 2009 14:56
This is the back. I have removed the rubber cap to show that there is some brake fluid dampness on the nipple. Normal?
Looks like it is happenning up front, too.
I remember seeing a whitish, dusty residue on my coolent hoses when cleaning/checking this winter. I just figured it was a little normal leakage. No big deal on a rubber hose. The brake fluid seems like it may be causing damage to the paint on the fittings by the brakes, however. I cleaned it off good with some spit and they shined right up better than I can ever remember them.
I guess I'm just worried that this could be a symptom of brake trouble. The breaks seem to opperate perfectly/no drop in fluid level. What do you guys think?
Rook
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Ninja14
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posted March 22, 2009 08:04 AM
I would simply remove the bleed fitting and scrub it...then put it back and go back-and-forth to seat it. Then see if it ok later.
I was expecting to see worse........
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dubious
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posted March 22, 2009 08:33 AM
The bleed is leaking.
Tighten the bleed, and clean it so you can see igf it keeps leaking.
That or remove the bleed, drain, clean up bleed, flush and purge system,
I am thinking they were not tight enough to begine with and nowe that they are corroding, may never seal up right again.
Russel makes real nice speed bleeders with check valves....
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Rook
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posted March 22, 2009 10:51 AM
Okay for now. I wanted to replace brake fluid anyway. Thanks for procedures. I'm going to have to look at my SM to see what you guys are talking about. Stay tuned for more questions.
Add one more thing not done properly in dealer prep. I will mention to dealer in case the warranty is still covering this but I really don't think I want them touching it. I might just ask for replacement parts.
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dubious
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posted March 22, 2009 04:17 PM
The dealer doesn't have to touch the brakes when they get them.
They basically uncrate, charge and install battery, check fluid levels, and tire pressure, install the windscreen and roll it out the door.
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Rook
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posted March 22, 2009 07:43 PM
^^.......and charge $500. The dealer I bought from said he won't sell an unprepped bike. I may go elsewhere for the 14's stablemate if I can find a dealer who will let me uncrate it. I can only see paying the prep fee if they are offering the bike at a real nice price.
BTW, I tasted some of the white residue and it tasted like salt (no jokes, please). I don't think salt is the only culprit because the stuff only seems to be appearing on the brake line fittings.
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Old Guy
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posted March 23, 2009 01:59 PM
Looks like good old fashioned corrosion to Me.
Got it anywhere else where theres that light factory paint?
I ride year round.
Every bolt corrodes in the threads.
The caliper allen bolts were really corroded in the threads on mine.
Ruined all the stainless heads and had to replace even one.
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Rook
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posted March 23, 2009 02:21 PM
^^No other corrosion that i have seen and I looked/cleaned pretty thoroughly under fairings this winter. I have not run the bike in winter but for one 20 minute ride a month ago. I did started riding in March of last year and I'm out in March again. There might be salt residue until late May but no way am I going to wait that long. I noticed the whitish specks starting after running the bike only a couple months.
Good point about the paint. The parts that are speckled with white are very thinly painted and they are down close to the road where the salt is most likely to get swept up.
Rook
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Old Guy
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posted March 23, 2009 11:22 PM
Edited By: Old Guy on 24 Mar 2009 07:23
Was just down in my shop. 5 Kawasakis all look just like that and worse. 92 500 takes the prize for corrosion !!!!
My track day partners 650 ninja and my 14 both look exactly like yours. Both are 06's.
Brake fluid usually bubbles paint kinda like paint remover does.
But dont let me stop you from checking your brakes!!!
They are kinda handy items for 170 hp bikes !!!
____________
Living the good life...,
On a XZ !!!!!
Tsukigi stainless full system
pcIII w/custom map
NO freakin flies!!
GP suspension forks
Penske rear shock
Rich's custom seat
And a whole bunch of other stuff.
97 zx6r full race bike with all the
good stuff
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Rook
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posted March 24, 2009 04:38 AM
Thank you for the input, OG.
One more reason those southern guys have life so good. It's tough up Nort here. I will have a look at tightening them up a touch and def wash 'em up. Maybe remove and spraypaint them next winter if I can mask off the areas that are supposed to be bare metal.
I hear the riders by the ocean have a heck of a time with salt year round.
Rook
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Superman T
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posted March 24, 2009 05:22 AM
I've lived in Michigan all my life & salt deposits look just like the pics posted. Keep in mind that the salt laid will stay on the ground for a while even after it melts the snow. It takes a few raining moments to get rid of that stuff. Detail that area & revisit when the weather breaks 4 you. Thank God I recently moved 2 FL. Good luck!
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Old Guy
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posted March 24, 2009 11:01 AM
Edited By: Old Guy on 24 Mar 2009 19:03
I'm surround by salt water. Luckily its not as bad as the major salt on spring roads that superman T has to live with.
And in Western Wa. if you leave sometime outside it changes color.
First it turns green, then slimy green, then black, then it dissolves and is gone!!
If you dont see leaks, leave it. If you do see leaks replace soft washers in banjo fittings then tighten.
Or if bleeder, pull it clean it up and retry. Replace it if it doesnt stop.
____________
Living the good life...,
On a XZ !!!!!
Tsukigi stainless full system
pcIII w/custom map
NO freakin flies!!
GP suspension forks
Penske rear shock
Rich's custom seat
And a whole bunch of other stuff.
97 zx6r full race bike with all the
good stuff
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ave8er
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posted March 24, 2009 06:34 PM
could be the soap you are using to wash it. If you are using any kind of wheel cleaner even the supposed non acid types it will do that also.
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Rook
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posted March 24, 2009 07:42 PM
Edited By: Rook on 25 Mar 2009 03:46
Good observation. I do use a wheel cleaner for aluminum wheels but this corrosion was sarting before I ever applied it. Always used Blue Corral wash for the rest of the bike which should be safe.
BTW, I never apply wheel cleaner by spraying on the wheel because it makes the brakes slippery as heck. I spray on the cloth and clean 'em. Then, rinse very carefully with a drenched cloth - wheels and tires. Rotors rinsed sepparately to elimate any trace of soap.
Think I'm going to wash them off good and keep them clean. My fathers Kawi in upper Michigan has the same kind of thing going on. His bike is 10 years old and still going strong - brakes and all.
Rook
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dubious
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posted March 25, 2009 07:40 AM
quote:
you sure its not just corroding from the elements?
.......
also most wheel cleaners are very corrosive, most are not meant for paint or anodized surfaces, just chrome and bare aluminum...
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MasterBlaster
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posted March 25, 2009 01:58 PM
Not leaking fluid, If it was it would let air infiltrate the system and you wouldnt have brakes. Just normal crud that needs scrubbing off ocasionally, It is a good idea to change your brake fluid annually, or whenever it starts to brown up.
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makenna
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posted March 26, 2009 05:03 PM
It's just white metal corrosion. The same thing as aircraft get. Just get some ACF-50 and it will be taken care of.
http://www.corrosionauthority.com/ACF-50%20Indiv.%20Pages.htm
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makenna
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posted March 26, 2009 05:06 PM
Additional information
http://www.acf-50.co.uk/motorcycle.htm
http://londonbikers.com/news/2990/ac...for-motorbikes
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/ad...?&R=EPI-106210
http://www.visordown.com/forum/forum...2916/v/1/cp/2/
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