Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted February 12, 2009 08:31 PM
what tool for header nuts ??
My header nuts were not really snug so I attempted to tighten them all. I was not able to get a wrench on two of the nuts by the radiator fan. There's not much room there for a handle to turn. Is there some kind of trick or special tool I could use so I wouldn't have to remove the radiator?
Are the header nuts supposed to be a little on the loose side? I was able to turn them about 1 1/2 full turns. They were making contact with the plate that goes against the motor but they didn't feel very tight.
Rook
  
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smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted February 12, 2009 08:38 PM
I use a 1/4 inch drive set ... 12 inch extenion and swivel ... You can go under the bottom of the rad and get all the nuts with no problem ...
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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kawasakijockey
Pro
Posts: 1876
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posted February 12, 2009 08:55 PM
quote:
I use a 1/4 inch drive set ... 12 inch extenion and swivel ... You can go under the bottom of the rad and get all the nuts with no problem ...
X2
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Get on the shortbus boys 'cause its time to get schooled.
2007 ZX-14
1.38 60ft
9.03 @ 149mph
8.95 @153 small shot n2o
8.68 @160mph 5lbs boost
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted February 12, 2009 08:58 PM
Thanks, smokin. I had a feeling there was a simple solution. I got ya - the handle will be free to turn under the rad if I can get a 12 extension to reach up in there. A swivel attachment or a socket that has a swivel will allow the sever angle.
Now as far as tightness goes, is there some kind of gasket under the nuts I should be concerned about squashing? I tightened the nuts I was able to reach to aprox 2 foot lbs - just a 1/4 turn past good & snug.
Rook
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pazx14rider
Zone Head
Posts: 953
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posted February 13, 2009 05:13 AM
Rook I just tightened mine very secure by hand but i have been a mechanic for ten years so i sorta have a feel for it. I f you look down through the threads Bawls had a thread where you can download the service manual all the torque specs are in there. And if you didnt move the radiator out of the way it makes it much easier there are two upper bolts and two lower bolts holding the radiator just take them out and ther radiator will come forward and drop down you dont need to take any hoses off just gives you a little more access room hope i was some help.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted February 13, 2009 04:38 PM
Thanks, pazx. I was thinking about possibley having to remove the radiator to get at the header. Good to know it's not too envolved if I need to go that route. I think the swivel is going to work for me though.
I think I have a good feel for materials and tools, but sometimes it is not exactly clear what I'm tightening. I haven't broken anything yet but I sometimes come across situations that I am unfamiliar with and then I don't know exactly how tight to go.
I have a service manual so I'll have to check the torque spec.
Rook
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smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted February 13, 2009 05:00 PM
quote:
Thanks, pazx. I was thinking about possibley having to remove the radiator to get at the header. Good to know it's not too envolved if I need to go that route. I think the swivel is going to work for me though.
I think I have a good feel for materials and tools, but sometimes it is not exactly clear what I'm tightening. I haven't broken anything yet but I sometimes come across situations that I am unfamiliar with and then I don't know exactly how tight to go.
I have a service manual so I'll have to check the torque spec.
Rook
Don't worry you really can't over TQ them with a 1/4 drive by hand ...I do mine cold and go ride the bike , come back let it cool again a retighten ...You should be good to go after that ...
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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Ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted February 13, 2009 05:24 PM
Double them up so they hold against each other as well as to the engine.
Mine kept getting loose.....
____________
2006 Turbo ZX-14.
2005 V-max 20th Anniv.
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted February 13, 2009 08:56 PM
Thank you, smokin. Good tips. I was using a small box wrench in that cramped spot so I'm sure I couldn't have overtightened the ones I could reach.
Ninja14 I like that idea of tightenning a second nut on top of the first. I remember my uncle showing me that trick many years ago. I don't know if I have all that much thread protruding to get a second nut on there, but I'll check. I was thinking today that a lock washer under the nut might do the trick but that might put a dent in the plate that the nut tightens against. Your idea sounds safer.
Rook
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Rook
Pro
Posts: 1125
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posted February 14, 2009 08:47 PM
 Edited By: Rook on 15 Feb 2009 04:55
Thought I'd post a little final info regarding the tools for header nuts recomended by smokin.
I found a 14" extension for a 1/4" drive ratchet at Sears. They also had 12mm sockets with U-joint swivel for 1/4" drive. This socket looked too shallow to acomodate the bit of thread that sticks out beyond the nut so I picked out a U-joint adaptor instead. It can be used with any 1/4' drive socket which makes it more versatile. Your standard 1/4" drive 12mm socket works well on the header nuts because it is about 2X as deep as the socket with the built in swivel that I first mentioned.
You can get the socket with the extension and U-joint adapter on all the nuts. I had my lower fairings off when I did the tightening. I do not know if it would be so easy without at least taking the lowers off. The 2 nuts in the very center are a bit tougher to get on but it is possible. I think I got one going through the vent hole in the right side fairing. Just be careful that the socket is set squarely on the nut to avoid stripping. It's a good idea to put your hand on the socket to feel that it is seated squarely because it can be pretty hard to see it. Also, there is a lot of twist flexion in a skinny 14" extension but that just helps elimenate over-tightening. A larger drive might not flex as much, but the fatter stem might well make it a lot harder to fit between the header pipes and radiator. I really think 1/4" drive is best for this job.
Thanks, everyone for pointers. Another little 14 job successfully accomplished.
Rook
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smokinZX14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted February 14, 2009 09:26 PM
Good post Rook
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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