Shane661
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posted February 09, 2009 08:55 AM
 Edited By: Shane661 on 9 Feb 2009 17:23
I see that you ordered the side panels from Catalyst. I almost did that myself, since I already have the race upper. In fact, I may end up doing that anyway.
I have the full Supersport upper on order. It incorporates the mid panels, grills, and upper together in one piece. The big question mark is fitting a chin fairing. It was never made with that intent. It looks close in the pictures, but they had no idea if a chin fairing could be fitted.
Shane
  
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dubious
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posted February 09, 2009 09:09 AM
Here ... I bought it from these guys..
http://www.superbikestore.com/zx14_zzr1400.htm
Did Catalyst leave the interlocking tabs / holes for mounting lowers on the super sport upper?
They make 3 models, I would think the street version would have mounting tabs for the lowers
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Shane661
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posted February 09, 2009 09:12 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 9 Feb 2009 17:16
There are no mounting tabs or holes for the chin fairing. Basically he just made a mold and cut the fairing off where it looked good. That is straight from the company.
Also, I'm sure you know that you have to cut the lower to clear the quick-access clutch cover (unless Catalyst is doing that). That should be easy enough with fiberglass.
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 09, 2009 09:17 AM
Edited By: dubious on 9 Feb 2009 17:18
Oh, and I DID NOT pay $300 for those lowers either..it was approx $225 as I recall.
Shane,
Looking at the lowers as pic'd here..
You might get away ok if they followed the stock attatchment seam when they cut the supersport...
with any luck a few drilled holes and you might be set.
I am going with dzus fasners everywhere possible on the plastic and dash covers
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Shane661
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posted February 09, 2009 09:22 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 9 Feb 2009 17:23
quote:
You might get away ok if they followed the stock attatchment seam when they cut the supersport...
with any luck a few drilled holes and you might be set.
I am going with dzus fasners everywhere possible on the plastic and dash covers
I'm hoping that's it; just drilling some holes to line up where the oem wellnuts are.
I have never worked with the dzus fasteners (hell, I don't even know how to pronounce it properly, lol). I guess they make for easy access?
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 09, 2009 09:26 AM
Edited By: dubious on 9 Feb 2009 17:28
progressive thread
1/4 turn and they are out ! some lock under spring loaded pressure !
Light and fast... I want to eliminate the 10 minute ordeal, or 20 if you don't use a drill...
I use allen key in my torque adjustable drill for now...
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dubious
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posted February 09, 2009 09:29 AM
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dubious
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posted February 09, 2009 11:16 AM
Edited By: dubious on 9 Feb 2009 19:36
Well spent a few hours in the gargae yesterday and took some pics...
Falcon billet clutch basket...
AMS1000
MSD SB6
Fuel plate with 1/2 suction and 1/2 return taps, OVERKILL
Modified fuel rail with 2 6-an feed, and 1 8-an return. OVERKILL
RCC 550cc / 52 lb injectors.
Big CC billet stacks... 12+ psi will blow the stockers out of the box! LOL
Adams aluminum adj links for the adams straight arm, Titanium bolts.
The Titanium bolts did not fit as they are meant for use with stock links, or 3 hole adjusters.
The clutch basket has been known to break under extreme usage, so more added insurance.
A turbo bike developing over 300 HP without any boost control is pretty much unridable.
If you can't pu the power to the ground, then its useless and dangerous.
AMS 1000 is time based or gear based boost control. GM 3bar map sensor
MSDSB6 to pull timing and adjustable curve, can be based off boost too, built in auto shift or shift light activation, and 2 step are nice features too.
52 lb injectors are capable of making over 500 HP at 115 PSI
Fuel rail and fuel plate to feed the 150 psi pump, and the injectors.
I will be oversizing the fuel system, to ensure it will not lean out and burn my new pistons.
I installed different links on the bike.
The underbrace on the arm gave me grief due to lack of clearance, as the right tube from the swingarm pivot to the underbrace was pretty close to the adjustable link.
I used washers to get the spacing right and measured and will have new spacers machined, and instal them next week.
I also installed the adams straight arm, and removed the old rocker arm.
Old one:
New one:
washers for measurement :
I also removed some unnecessary stuff
Now you see it:
Now you don't! :
I will never have a centerstand, and the turbo has a dump pipe, so those brackets down there are gone now.
Just need to clean the casting a bit and paint them.
Left a little bit of the extrusions there to be sure I didn't cut into anything structural.
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Shane661
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posted February 09, 2009 11:25 AM
I thought about ditching the centerstand tangs (they sit so low), but I can't bring myself to cut on the frame.
I read that those Adams lowering links are very light. I am considering them...
I also considered the SB6 and Bazzaz...but I have a lot of power commander stuff on numerous bikes. Still an option, though.
Shane
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dubious
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posted February 09, 2009 11:34 AM
Yes I felt the same way at first, but decded long ago this thing will never be going back to stock. I left about 3/16 of the tang to ensure I didn't make a mistake! DOOH!
LOL
The links are very light.
I wasn't using the adams rocker arm at first, so I had to buy different ones.
I also unthreaded them, marked 1/2 " with grease pencil to ensure there is alot of thread in them and they will not fail.
I sold my power commander with the SMEG last summer.
I intended to use the afm with the bazzaz but after everything I read I decided to use innovate stuff as you already know.
The bazzaz does have better tunability with more rpm and TP cells in the map layout.
It is super small too!
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Shane661
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posted February 09, 2009 11:38 AM
How does the Bazazz plug in? It looks like the factory harness plugs into it and it piggybacks the ecu?
Everything looks top notch. 
Shane
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masszx14
Pro
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posted February 09, 2009 12:09 PM
Hats down to this mad motorcycle enthusiast for his vision,
mechanical knowledge and skills!!!
Lyle, this thing is going to be insane! Can't wait to see it done!
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universal@mind
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dubious
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posted February 10, 2009 05:18 PM
Edited By: dubious on 11 Feb 2009 01:28
Thanks Stan.
I am still learning. The Turbo is totally new to me.
I am very passionate about everything I do.
It drives some ppl, especially my wife CRAZY! LOL
Shane, the Bazzaz piggybacks all of the sensor plugs and is a bit more involved than the PC3.
I have no verdict on it yet.
Not that I saved any weight, but just wanted to clean up the details since the frame is now totally exposed to show off its mechanical substance.
Yesterday I also cut the sharp front tabs / stops for the centerstands, grinded everything smooth and painted
I left 1/8 inch of material wher the tabs once were. I wanted to ensure structural integrity was not changed.
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dubious
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posted February 10, 2009 05:27 PM
I have a bunch of stuff for sale in the classifieds too now.
External fuel pumps, regulators, modified fuel rail , oil pan etc.
Check it out!
I was going to go with a modified rail, 550cc injectors and 100+ psi to acheive 500HP , but am seriously looking at a standalone 2nd fuel rail and controller for boost.
The Boost referenced FMU are great for 300-400 HP, but I am still riding this thing on the street and at the track.
My targets are 300+ on pump with some water injection, and 500+ on c-16 for the track.
A standalone 2nd rail will be much more accurate and easier to tune for the big numbers I am striving, and the flexibility and drivability on the street.
Thus I have a bunch of fuel system parts that will be great for guys wanting big NOS shots, or 250-400 HP turbo systems.
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zx-twitch
Expert Class
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posted February 10, 2009 06:03 PM
hey dubious do you have any problems with bad vibes with those clip ons? i am thinking about getting a set of vortex clip ons
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dubious
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posted February 10, 2009 06:49 PM
Edited By: dubious on 11 Feb 2009 06:46
I haven't ran these but did run LSL match clip ons.
No vibes.
The 14 is one of the smoothest engines made.
You'll be fine unless your super sensitive. carpal tunnel or something... even then the dog ear stance of the stockers was horrendous IMO... pulled back and down like that...
You will drop about 1-1.5 lbs going to vortex.
You will have to keep an eye on interference with the tank if you run the tubes in front of the forks, and will be a longer reach to the bars with them out front of the forks, as the stock ones are centered on the fork tube.
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dubious
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posted February 10, 2009 07:06 PM
Edited By: dubious on 11 Feb 2009 06:05
Well,
I am away at work for a week now so no changes until I get back.
I did manage to pick up my engine yesterday. It been at the engine / machine shop for a few weeks.
I had the cylinders decked, and fresh hone with a diamond stone, rods measured and bearing clearances checked,
Crank was ran out and checked for trueness, journals polished, balanced.
As it turns out they took 2 thous" off the deck, crank is within .0001 " runout which is incredible, all rods and main Journals are in perfect shape.
Cylinders are square all the way through and within .0000 of each other.
Yes kawasaki made each of my 4 cylinders perfect to within one hundredths of an inch!
New pistons all came in within .0003" I am putting the smallest ones in the hottest center holes.
Kawasaki builds precise parts in these motors! The foundation was near perfect as can be AFTER 10,000 miles YET! of what many ppl would consider abuse and obsurdity.
I maintained the bike, but otherwise literaly beat on that motor everytime I rode it.
I don't mean bouncing the revlimiter, I mean full throttle at every opportunity, 50 HP shots and about 30 lbs worth of it!
Not only did I hammer on it as hard as a drag racer it saw hours and hours of extended use above 7000 rpm !
I won't say which gear 
The only issue was the piston wrist pin bores were tight... only .004 clearance, and really should be .006 to .007" -JE
We had to wait a week and a half to get the proper stone for the pin bores.
The zx14 pistons have oil grooves in the pin bores, and a wide shoe stone is required so the hone doesn't grab the oil groove and tear up the bore.
I also had a custom head gasket made.
Busa's run cylinder spacers, I am using a head spacer ( zx14 is monoblock)
I bought some other stuff I'll need to for the build as well.
Clevite assembly bearing lube
Hylomar gasket sealant
Rod bolt Stretch Gauge
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1badvespa1400cc
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posted February 10, 2009 08:18 PM
Damn now thats what I call a fun build!!!!
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dubious
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posted February 10, 2009 09:51 PM
Edited By: dubious on 11 Feb 2009 06:25
Thanks
I am learning quite a bit about engine building too.
Turns out after years of building 2 strokes and the odd 4 stroke dirt bike I really didn't know too much.
The level of detail and the precision of an engine to handle the expansion and heat created by a turbo first of all, then the ability to handle 500 HP + from 1352cc is awe inspiring and downright nerve wrecking too.
I have been compiling info from several experienced engine builders over the months, and its amazing how many different opinions you get.
a simple thing like piston to cylinder clearance, or ring end gaps...
the factory cast piston do not expand as much as forged JE pistons, but do not have the ring land to survive 500HP,
The factory recommended service limit for the stock pistons is 0.0019"
JE recomends minimum .0030" for naturally aspirated engines, and as much as .0060" for turbo , nitrous or supercharged applications. Well I guess I am playing it safe and lucked out with 4 holes and 4 pistons measuring between .0043 and .0045" !
Some bike engine builders told me thats too loose, ( limited turbo experience) and my prostock and funny car engine builder on the opposite end of the spectrum said my clearances are too tight.
Well after speaking with JE and with 12 opinions I am satisfied with what I have.
Too tight is real bad... hot seized pistons suck..., and i am not running 50 psi boost he has in some of his superchagerd top fuel cars either. i don't want to have to tear the damn thing down every other weekend and replace sloppy pistons. Mine will not be wrung to its limits every second it runs like the top fuel car either.
I want to ride the darn thing!
How about ring end gaps?
Well the stock service limit is 0.0118" for the top ring and 0.0217" for the bottom.
Those are the largest clearance allowed before expected failure whan I say service limit.
JE rep suggested .015 for the top and .017 on the bottom
Bike engine builder recommends 0.014 " and .015 " respectively
Top Fuel engine builder says .0055" per inch of bore for top, and .0060" for each inch of bore on bottom ring.
top=3.299 x .0055" = .018"
bottom= 3.299 x .0060" = .0197 ~.020
I also have to check the ring / groove clearances! LOL
I won't even get into crank and rod clearances right now.
Does anyone know any formula 1 engine builders I can bug for info?
cause I think they are the next level in engine tech, tolerances and spec above the level Kawasaki has delivered in our engines!
its a different animal when all that turbo power and heat is thrown at it too!
Anyway on to a lighter topic,
I have more pics of my inventory!
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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dubious
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posted February 10, 2009 10:44 PM
Edited By: dubious on 11 Feb 2009 06:57
I will be modifying the clutch for more oil flow so it can survive and stay a little cooler.
I haven't had much time to give it a real good look yet, but will do when I get home.
In the meantime here is the cover !
I have had all this stuff in boxes for almost a year.
For a while it was killing me to shelve the project, then after a while i forgot about the treasure i had stashed..
I wanted an RCC black one, none left so I took this anyway...
Its a shame the inside will never be seen. The milled finnish inside is nicer than the outside.
Adams 2 inch pan.
I am not sure exactly how much more oil it will hold, but about 2.5 liters seems about right.
this is the ticket to crankshaft survival under heavy g forces
Compared to the stock one which is zero inches deep at the flange and just a pocket in the corner...
windage tray with baffles. There is actully a trap door in the pan.
It looks like it closes when the bike is launched to prevent oil stavation... if you look close you might be able to see it partially open and closed in these 2 pics
part open
closed
feed port to pick up tube chamber as it may seem.
Nobody gave me a tutorial on this, its just what I have concluded from my observations BTW , so anyone in the know, feel free to correct me if needed.
There were no instructions with it so.... I will be calling to be sure the bitch doesn't starve!
I also picked up a reusable oil filter.
I like the fact i can inspect it, and it has a magnet built in.
The cover is billet aluminum, and it appears it should assist in oil cooling to some degree, as long as the turbo is not located close enough to heat it up.
The turbo is ceramic coated, so hopefully that will make a big difference.
Hopefully the turbo will clear.
and a parting shot the way I left it for a few days...
Damn, I could tare a stocker down and put it back together in 2-3 days, but all the modifications are killing... prefit 3 times, then mod and refit again...
Oh well, I wanted one thats different...
man I don`t care what Bob says.
Im lovin the chrome wheels and the swingarm !  
Damn... no wifey.... thinkin of bikey... no sexercise....
how the hell am I supposed to get tired enough to sleep?
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 12:40 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 12 Feb 2009 08:56
Any more pics or measurements of these? I had a set of Factory Pro, but I was thinking or replacing them with these.
Is there a technical reason to mount the strap bracket between the fork and caliper? That would seem to reduce the amount of pad surface touching the rotor. Of course, with such a custom app, who knows.
The oil pan looks great. I really wanted one, but would have to run a sidewinder. I also would have liked a black clutch cover, I may have mine powerdercoated.
Shane
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KZScott
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posted February 12, 2009 01:15 AM
is the headgasket solid? i dont see the typical blackish viton coating like on regular multi layer steel gaskets
do you have a coating in the rod small ends(bronze colour)? speaking of coatings, and since you are going all out(those pistons sure are pretty)... DLC on the piston pins??
the oil pan gate dates back to KZ motors, very effective and proven
F1 is def a step above factory kawi stuff! the manual tells you to use plastigauge to measure for bearings...um no thanks, mics and bore gauges for me
____________
01 ZX-12R 8.84 @ 156.3 no bars, DOT tires. Pump Gas, NA.... turbo 8.47 @ 164.
00 ZX-12R 8.62 @ 165.2 no bars, slicks, Pump Gas, 55 shot.... turbo 8.32 @173
00 ZX-12R Fastest NA Kawasaki in the world 1: 222.046 1.5: 226.390 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R street turbo 1: 227.9 1.5: 234.1 Loring AFB
00 ZX-12R LSR turbo 1: 263.1 1.5: 266.5 Loring AFB Worlds fastest ZX-12R
CMG Racing RCC Turbos
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dubious
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posted February 12, 2009 06:45 AM
Hey Shane.
The gsxr forks and zx14 brakes required a 10 mm spacer as the caliper dimensions are different. I already owned the strap brackets, and they happened to work out perfect under the caliper rather than on top.
Additionally I will run 2 straps and tie them over the lower tripple clamp rather than over the neck of the frame. This method of strapping is much safer, no chaffing of the strap when turning the bars, also no interference with steering dampers and such. This location of the lower brackets also makes the line from the the lower clamp to the lower strap bracket a straighter line, more parallel to the fork tubes.
I can get more pics and dimensions of the Big CC velocity stacks, what do you want to see?
Pics and dimensions can't be given till I get home next week.
The head gasket is solid. Using the hylomar to coat it before installation.
The rods came coated on the small end.
The pins are not coated. The ZX14 has a very good oiling system, the pin holes have a oil grooves in them.
No plastigauge for me either.
Everything was measured and I am using the pictured rod bolt stretch gauge.
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Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 07:02 AM
I'm interested in how their height and ID compare to the stock pieces...
Shane
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Shane661
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posted February 12, 2009 07:05 AM
Edited By: Shane661 on 12 Feb 2009 15:06
I sold my sidewinder...but man, it's almost worth getting another just to run this pan. Maybe I can use an oil pan to justify a turbo?
Shane
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