Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted December 07, 2008 05:58 AM
Big Bang.
I think I know what is causing the bang from neutral to 1st and the clunky shifting. With the clutch lever against the grip the slightest release makes the bike move forward. So it is not totally disengaging. Any thoughts on improving this? I will lean the bike over to the right and bleed clutch , although I have bled it many times already. Idle and chain adjustment are correct. I noticed it shifts better cold before things expand and reduce travel. Longer clutch rod? S.S. line?
  
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bigdtd
Needs a job
Interceptors
Posts: 4209
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posted December 07, 2008 06:23 AM
a little clutch drag is ok but if it is bad put a new clutch in it, i don't know how many miles or how much abuse you have given it so its hard to tell.hell an oil change might make a difference, are you using a good synthetic?
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2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT
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Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted December 07, 2008 06:34 AM
07, 2500 miles. Amsoil. No abuse from me but I bought the bike w/1000 miles on it. Back tire has no chicken strips, looks like a burnout pattern as it's kinda fuzzy looking.
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BobC
Pro
Posts: 1736
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posted December 07, 2008 09:13 AM
If you're talking about engaging 1st when starting a cold engine, it's fairly normal. If it does it all the time then you do have a problem with clutch drag.
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Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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Smooth_G
Expert Class
Posts: 228
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posted December 07, 2008 09:31 AM
while idling in neutral the input shaft n gears n clutch r turning,,when u put in into first,,the inner clutch hub, steel plates, input shaft n gears stop,,thats the clunk,,plus the plates will have a little drag no matter what,,while iding if u shift it from neutral first to few times with the clutch in standing still,the clunk will lessen because the plates will better separate n lubricate,,this is the reason some manufacturers use dry clutches,,like ducati
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Acat
Novice Class
Posts: 99
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posted December 07, 2008 09:43 AM
What about shifts 2&3. They clunk.
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ratbyk
Expert Class
Posts: 179
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posted December 07, 2008 11:56 AM
To reduce the initial clunk into first, warm up bike a bit. Shut off and put in 1st gear then start and ride away. No more clunk. Once fully warmed up and having shifted multiple times there should be virtually no clunk going into first.
If your clutch lever is right into the bars and it is still dragging I'm positive you still have air in the system some where.
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killakaw4life
Expert Class
Posts: 348
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posted December 07, 2008 12:13 PM
Also try and put the swivel adjustment on the clutch to #1. That will make the clutch start disengaging sooner than at number 5. 14s are very hard to bleed all the air out of the system. try getting a vacuum pump and until then try gravity bleeding it. just open the bleed screw and let fluid come out for about 2-3 minutes. keep fluid in though.
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Juice McGoose
Novice Class
Posts: 73
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posted December 07, 2008 12:13 PM
"With the clutch lever against the grip the slightest release makes the bike move forward." The way I see it that is your problem. According to the '06-'07 official service manual the only adjustment is the dial wheel on the lever. #1 should give you the most travel.
If that doesn't help, and you are sure you correctly bled the system, my next guess would be warped plates. Although it takes a lot to warp a 14 clutch, that would cause your problem. The service limit for both steel and friction plates is .012" max. warp with the plate in the free state, no fair pressing down on it.
So you may need to take the clutch off and check the plates on a piece of glass with feeler gauges. When you have it apart make sure all the parts are there and none of them are worn beyond their service limit.
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