indynic
Expert Class
Lil Show, Lil Go
Posts: 258
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posted August 09, 2008 02:53 PM
Burned Clutch, What now?
So I burned up my clutch at the track last night. I see that schnitz carries replacements packs. What's the scoop on these heavy duty springs? Is this something that I should consider when replacing my clutch pack? How will it change compared to stock? How do they help?
BTW:
I have been doing searches and found a great write up about replacing the clutch plates found here: http://www.zx14ninja.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=8273
Please rate the difficulty of replacing these plates. I have never replaced clutch plates on a bike, just about everything else. Judgin from the write up, I feel this is something that I can do with my skill level. Is there anything that I need to know that was not mentioned in the clutch replacement write up?
Thank Guys
  
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ambull
Expert Class
Posts: 108
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posted August 09, 2008 11:39 PM
it is apretty easy job to replace the clutch..Just take your time..Try Carolina Cycle for a clutch pack..Pretty good deal,
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thutch26
Expert Class
thutch26
Posts: 483
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posted August 10, 2008 01:04 AM
this just happened to me a few weeks ago.... Make sure you drop your pan and check the pickup for any fiber material... I ended up spinning a rod bearing and when my builder tore it down he said there was fiber material stuck in the screen of the pickup and retricted oil flow.. Just a little advice that could save you a few thousad $$$!!!
Oh yeah !!! Check with Dwayne @ cycleconcepts about a new clutchpak..I hear they are awesome and last just as long if not longer then oem... Tell him slvrblt sent you... I spoke with him in Indy last weekend and he made some really good sense about these clutchpaks and why they work so well!!
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Gettin faster everytime I go to the track!!!
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ninjaboy311
Zone Head
Posts: 940
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posted August 10, 2008 02:42 AM
Changing clutches in the 14 in very easy. Just remember there are 2 fibers that are completely different from the rest of the fibers, (the inner most fiber and the outer most fiber).
I tried the Schnitz heavy duty springs and they were way too stiff. May want to try the Brock's heavy springs instead.
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Naarden Speedlinks Sponsored Rider
Schnitz Racing Sponsored Rider
8.74 @ 152 on stock motor and MR9 (Muzzy Powered), 205 lbs suited
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted August 10, 2008 07:51 AM
Get Brocks clutch spring spacers .. They come 5 to a pack ... I tried all five but was just a bit to much for me so i installed 3 and works great ... 
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Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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indynic
Expert Class
Lil Show, Lil Go
Posts: 258
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posted August 10, 2008 08:27 AM
smokin: So use two stock springs and three Brock springs?
Can I reuse my stock springs that are in the bike now or should I buy new stockers?
Pertaining to the brock's, do you stagger the springs when installing or put three in a row Brock and two stock?
If I choose to go with stock springs, can I reuse my existing or should I buy new?
I think that I got the clutch too hot b/c I ran too many runs. Do you think that there will be metal in the oil pan? I really don't launch that hard, I think that I overworked it w/ too many runs.
Thanks Guys
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted August 10, 2008 08:55 AM
quote:
smokin: So use two stock springs and three Brock springs?
Can I reuse my stock springs that are in the bike now or should I buy new stockers?
Pertaining to the brock's, do you stagger the springs when installing or put three in a row Brock and two stock?
If I choose to go with stock springs, can I reuse my existing or should I buy new?
I think that I got the clutch too hot b/c I ran too many runs. Do you think that there will be metal in the oil pan? I really don't launch that hard, I think that I overworked it w/ too many runs.
Thanks Guys
I would get a new set of stock springs .. Your old ones have seen to much heat .... stagger the spacers .... No need to pull the pan just yet , just change oil and filter ... Use a good syn oil ... I use Mobil One 10 W 30 ....
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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oncourse
Expert Class
I hate flies!!!
Posts: 467
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posted August 10, 2008 06:08 PM
I just wanna put 2 cents in here, the mobil one 10w30, if it is car oil, is not made for clutches, only engines. I am not saying it will not protect the engine, but the wet clutch setups of modern bikes need bike specific oil with extreme pressure additives, which work well with wet clutches and trannies. Do not use car oil in any bike engine.....
Rob
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True intellegence is not measured by your degrees.
04 klr 250 Lots of mods and 70 MPG!!
08 Connie 2 bros. Carbon. Helibars. Flies out, PC3!!!
2003 kx 500 SOLD
2004 KX 500 In service now, whata BEAST!
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted August 10, 2008 06:18 PM
quote:
I just wanna put 2 cents in here, the mobil one 10w30, if it is car oil, is not made for clutches, only engines. I am not saying it will not protect the engine, but the wet clutch setups of modern bikes need bike specific oil with extreme pressure additives, which work well with wet clutches and trannies. Do not use car oil in any bike engine.....
Rob
Use whatever oil that pleases you .... Mobil One car oil is just fine for our zx14 clutchs .... Proof i get 200+ hard passes out of a set and when i pull them they are still useable for the street ...
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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indynic
Expert Class
Lil Show, Lil Go
Posts: 258
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posted August 11, 2008 09:26 AM
Thanks for all the input.
I currently use Royal Purple Max Cycle Full Syn. 10w40. I have been pretty happy with it, the bike seems to run cooler compared to dino oil. Maintenance freak though, I change my oil about every 1000 miles.
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SteddyTeddy
Pro
Posts: 1664
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posted August 11, 2008 09:58 AM
 Edited By: SteddyTeddy on 11 Aug 2008 10:58
The good old oil debate. You engine WILL NOT BLOW UP if you don't run motorcycle oil. Also been using nothing but Mobil 1 10/30 for several years now. NO clutch problems and NO tranny problems.
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Bently
Needs a life
2012 14r In Blue and no Mods!
Posts: 5428
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posted August 11, 2008 10:07 AM
quote:
I just wanna put 2 cents in here, the mobil one 10w30, if it is car oil, is not made for clutches, only engines. I am not saying it will not protect the engine, but the wet clutch setups of modern bikes need bike specific oil with extreme pressure additives, which work well with wet clutches and trannies. Do not use car oil in any bike engine.....
Rob
You could not be more wrong. Had 250 runs on my 14 with 5-20 mobil1 car oil and have 185 on my Busa clutch with the same oil. Have used it in my last 5 to 6 bikes with no issues.
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burnout
Expert Class
Posts: 216
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posted August 11, 2008 12:30 PM
Edited By: burnout on 11 Aug 2008 13:41
First of all, BRAVO for going to the track. A lot of people talk about doing it, few do.
Second, your clutch springs shrink as they wear out. The service limit (measuring their height) is 62 mm (2.44 in.)
I've found that when I run synth oil I've had to really increase the pressure of the springs by shimming and using some combo of heavy duty springs to get good 60fts. When I switched back to organic oil, it was all 12 o'clocks until I could take out some spring pressure. This totally make sense to me because synth is more slippery. I guess my point is that whatever oil you choose to run you're going to have to optimize your clutch spring set-up to it.
One more thing, I bought Smokin's heavy duty springs off of him because they had too much static pressure for him. I weigh 70 lbs more than him and I was able to improve my 60ft with 'em. It's a balance between having a grabby clutch and one that slips too much. Your clutch hand style, weight, oil type, wheel base are all going to factor into what works best.
It's very easy to make spring adjustments once you have it all back together. Pull the bike's front wheel up onto a 2x4-so that it leans more on its kick stand- that way when you pull the clutch cover oil doesn't run out. Hit those clutch cover bolts with a cordless drill like your in a pit crew. Pull one hub bolt, make a change by adding a spacer or replacing it with a HD spring, button it back up (You don't need to knuckle down when tightening hub bolts, that shit breaks, I found out the hard way) Go to a test and tune night at the track and keep adding as long as it makes you 60 ft. faster. And remember 14s out 60ft Busa's - REPRESENT!
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1/8 5.66@129.77
1/4 8.74@159.60
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indynic
Expert Class
Lil Show, Lil Go
Posts: 258
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posted August 13, 2008 12:05 PM
Replaced the clutch plates and fibers and springs last night. All factory replacement stuff. I used Brock's Spring spacers just like Smokin said to.
The clutch feels Awesome! Much improved feel. Thanks smokin, I would probaably trust just about anything you had to say when it comes to the ZX14.
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