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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX-14.com > Thread: Changing Oil And Cooling NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
Knight_Rider


Parking Attendant
Dying From Forced Patients
Posts: 8
posted June 10, 2008 06:56 PM        
Changing Oil And Cooling

I have a ZX 14, 08. But I want to learn how to change my oil on my own instead of paying tons to do it. Tomorrow I am changing the break fluid on my own, but I want to know this also. And my bike gets hot fast, I have no clue what the problem is. Would someone like to help me. And I have seen the fan, it works well.
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Knight Rider
2008 Special Edition Red And Black ZX 14

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ninja14


Pro
Posts: 1136
posted June 10, 2008 07:06 PM        
Why brake fluid now?.........it's not even a year old.

If the dashboard does not flash an overheating warning then it is fine.....fan comes on at 203*F

Changing the oil is so easy - do not have to remove any plastic. You can reach the filter from the front/bottom and the drain is accessible too.
____________
2006 Turbo ZX-14.
2005 V-max 20th Anniv.

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Knight_Rider


Parking Attendant
Dying From Forced Patients
Posts: 8
posted June 10, 2008 07:15 PM        
But my break oil is dark. And I heard a lot of ppl are having the same heating issue. On the highway its great, but in traffic it gets HOT. It smells like its about to catch fire or something. And ummm a little bit more detailed on the oil change please.
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Knight Rider
2008 Special Edition Red And Black ZX 14

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jeff martin


Pro (closed)
jamming
Posts: 1168
posted June 10, 2008 07:49 PM        
First step, warm bike for a few minutes. "Not Hot" burn your hands maybe ! then get a filter and 5 quarts of a high quality oil i use Rotella 5w-40 syn at first 2000 mile change before that use dino oil. Change it soon if you have more miles. Get a decent metric socket set i think its 19mm. After warm open drain plug and let drain for ohh 20 minutes or until it stops dripping. While the oil is draining remove the filter and also let it drain into same pan. The first time you take off the stock filter it will be tight so a good oil filter strap wrench works well. There are many of these available just make sure you have one small enough to hold onto the small filter. Then take the new filter and coat the sealing ring on the filter with a film of oil so the seal slips as you install it, Now when you install the new filter just spin it on and when it makes contact only tighten it 3/4 of a turn is all thats needed for a good seal. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ! Now install the plug and also DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN i think the book says 22ftlbs if you dont have a torque wrench dont worry just tighten snug but keep in mind its aluminum. If you have no clue how much 22ftlbs is then tighten it about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after the plug makes contact. Add oil amount also in the book. or add 4 quarts and start bike for a minute let sit and check thru sight glass when level. Go Ride !
____________
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smokinzx14


Needs a life
Posts: 10197
posted June 10, 2008 07:55 PM        
quote:
First step, warm bike for a few minutes. "Not Hot" burn your hands maybe ! then get a filter and 5 quarts of a high quality oil i use Rotella 5w-40 syn at first 2000 mile change before that use dino oil. Change it soon if you have more miles. Get a decent metric socket set i think its 19mm. After warm open drain plug and let drain for ohh 20 minutes or until it stops dripping. While the oil is draining remove the filter and also let it drain into same pan. The first time you take off the stock filter it will be tight so a good oil filter strap wrench works well. There are many of these available just make sure you have one small enough to hold onto the small filter. Then take the new filter and coat the sealing ring on the filter with a film of oil so the seal slips as you install it, Now when you install the new filter just spin it on and when it makes contact only tighten it 3/4 of a turn is all thats needed for a good seal. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ! Now install the plug and also DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN i think the book says 22ftlbs if you dont have a torque wrench dont worry just tighten snug but keep in mind its aluminum. If you have no clue how much 22ftlbs is then tighten it about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after the plug makes contact. Add oil amount also in the book. or add 4 quarts and start bike for a minute let sit and check thru sight glass when level. Go Ride !
Drain plug is a 17mm
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95

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kawasaki_1965


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Posts: 27
posted June 10, 2008 07:55 PM        Edited By: kawasaki_1965 on 10 Jun 2008 21:02
Your bike is new, it will smell a bit funny for the first 3,000 miles or so. As for changing oil, I would invest in a Service manual which can be had on Ebay for about $30 or so.
Here's one on Ebay right now for $26. It's the same exact as OEM but the guy probably had them mass produced at a copy place. I have the same one and it's half the price of OEM.

If you're bleeding the brake fluid, I would recommend the Motul RBF600

Oil change, pretty easy. Make sure the bike is warm for better draining.
-You'll need a 17mm box wrench or socket/ratchet combo. If you don't have a rear stand I would recommend holding the bike up by sitting on it while it drains.
- Ensure you watch not to drop the crush washer from the plug - sometimes they stick to the oil pan then eventually fall off during the draining session. I recommend getting a new one after a couple of oil changes.

-You'll need a filter wrench of some sort to break the first turn of the filter. Filter is very easily accessible through or under the lower cowling on the left side.
- No need to overtighten the new filter - a half turn after it gets hand tight.
-K&N Oil Filter Part# KN-303 or Kawasaki OEM will do fine. I like the K&N due to the quality and also it has a 17mm nut end to make the next filter removal very easy with no use of a filter wrench and o-ring is already pre-lubed.
-Don't over-tighten the oil drain plug 12-15 ft lbs torque is more than enough. No torque wrench? - Finger tight first then tighten it no more than a quarter turn after you feel a generous amount of resistance otherwise you may strip the threading on the oil pan or worse - crack the oil pan.
- It will take nearly 5 quarts to refill but you need to pour the first four quarts slowly and watch the oil fil glass on the right side of the lower engine case. Would help if someone could sit on it upright while you gauge the reading.
It'll probably take 4.5 quarts on the first fill.
- Run the motor for a couple of minutes then let it sit for a few minutes then re-check your oil level. Make sure not to overfill. A tad below the top line is sufficient.
-Check for leaks at the drain plug and filter area before riding.
- Oil preference is yours but I would run regular petroleum based oil 15 or 20W/50 during the summer months. Then drop down to 10W-40 during the winter months.
-Petroleum based oil for at least the first 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Oil change interval is up to you. It's cheap insurance so I do mine every 1,500 miles. Any quality motorcycle oil brand will do. You can switch to semi-synthetic after 5,000 miles then ease it into full synthetic after you hit 10,000 miles.
I'm sure someone will chime in shortly to say otherwise in regards to which oil, filter brand etc etc. Typical forum responses so it's expected. .

Keep receipts of your oil and fitler purchase and annotate on your owners manual. It will save you some potential headaches if you ever have to take your bike in for warranty issues. They will ask for service records/receipts if you didn't have it done at a Kawasaki dealer.

Have fun!

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countersteer


Needs a job
Didn't read the owners manual
Posts: 2207
posted June 10, 2008 08:06 PM        
id like to know why his brake fluid is black with only 2500 miles on the bike.
____________
Scott
Long Island, New York
2006 ZX-14, 2003 ZX-12R

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ninja14


Pro
Posts: 1136
posted June 10, 2008 08:45 PM        
quote:
id like to know why his brake fluid is black with only 2500 miles on the bike.



Is it black or are you seeing the rubber piece inside?......which almost fills the reservoir.
____________
2006 Turbo ZX-14.
2005 V-max 20th Anniv.

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countersteer


Needs a job
Didn't read the owners manual
Posts: 2207
posted June 10, 2008 10:20 PM        
i was talking to him earlier, and told him it was probably the rubber. he still said the fluid was black...
____________
Scott
Long Island, New York
2006 ZX-14, 2003 ZX-12R

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Cajunboyz


Zone Head
Posts: 702
posted June 11, 2008 05:20 AM        
QUOTE Hey kawaski_1965 ,Here's one on Ebay right now for $26. It's the same exact as OEM but the guy probably had them mass produced at a copy place. I have the same one and it's half the price of OEM.


Do you have that link for the 14 manual as above??????

____________
"Cajun Boyz with Bad Ass Toys"

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jeff martin


Pro (closed)
jamming
Posts: 1168
posted June 11, 2008 07:00 AM        
quote:
quote:
First step, warm bike for a few minutes. "Not Hot" burn your hands maybe ! then get a filter and 5 quarts of a high quality oil i use Rotella 5w-40 syn at first 2000 mile change before that use dino oil. Change it soon if you have more miles. Get a decent metric socket set i think its 19mm. After warm open drain plug and let drain for ohh 20 minutes or until it stops dripping. While the oil is draining remove the filter and also let it drain into same pan. The first time you take off the stock filter it will be tight so a good oil filter strap wrench works well. There are many of these available just make sure you have one small enough to hold onto the small filter. Then take the new filter and coat the sealing ring on the filter with a film of oil so the seal slips as you install it, Now when you install the new filter just spin it on and when it makes contact only tighten it 3/4 of a turn is all thats needed for a good seal. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ! Now install the plug and also DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN i think the book says 22ftlbs if you dont have a torque wrench dont worry just tighten snug but keep in mind its aluminum. If you have no clue how much 22ftlbs is then tighten it about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after the plug makes contact. Add oil amount also in the book. or add 4 quarts and start bike for a minute let sit and check thru sight glass when level. Go Ride !
Drain plug is a 17mm



Yea it was a guess ! Thanks !
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jeff martin


Pro (closed)
jamming
Posts: 1168
posted June 11, 2008 07:01 AM        
quote:
id like to know why his brake fluid is black with only 2500 miles on the bike.



Moisture causes brake fluid to turn darker ! But not black . Got any pics ?
____________
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Superman T


Pro
Posts: 1831
posted June 11, 2008 07:17 AM        
Cajunboyz-if you do a search for "service manual", you find the answer to your reqest
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Cajunboyz


Zone Head
Posts: 702
posted June 11, 2008 09:03 AM        
I still didn't find the one that kawasaki_1965 said ;
Here's one on Ebay right now for $26. It's the same exact as OEM but the guy probably had them mass produced at a copy place. I have the same one and it's half the price of OEM.

???

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"Cajun Boyz with Bad Ass Toys"

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Evilsports


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Posts: 119
posted June 11, 2008 11:01 PM        
I have the manual PDF if someone wants to host it.
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kawasaki_1965


Parking Attendant
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Posts: 27
posted June 16, 2008 04:11 AM        Edited By: kawasaki_1965 on 16 Jun 2008 05:12
This forum won't let me paste direct URLS????
Here's the Item number: 320190360737
Go to ebay home page and do a "search".
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZX14-ZZR1400-ZX-14-ZX-14-ZZR-1400-SERVICE-MANUAL-PAPER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ34240QQihZ011QQitemZ320190360737QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

quote:
I still didn't find the one that kawasaki_1965 said ;
Here's one on Ebay right now for $26. It's the same exact as OEM but the guy probably had them mass produced at a copy place. I have the same one and it's half the price of OEM.

???


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kawasaki_1965


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Bone Stocker
Posts: 27
posted June 16, 2008 04:13 AM        
Here's the Item number: 320190360737
Go to ebay home page and do a "search" or cut n paste this link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZX14-ZZR1400-ZX-14-ZX-14-ZZR-1400-SERVICE-MANUAL-PAPER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ34240QQihZ011QQitemZ320190360737QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

quote:
I still didn't find the one that kawasaki_1965 said ;
Here's one on Ebay right now for $26. It's the same exact as OEM but the guy probably had them mass produced at a copy place. I have the same one and it's half the price of OEM.

???



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cajunboyz


Zone Head
Posts: 702
posted June 16, 2008 08:46 AM        
I did , thanks kawaski_1965
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Ozonkiller


Expert Class
Posts: 350
posted June 21, 2008 08:21 PM        
I realize that this reply is probably a day late...

I'm sure that there are folks who'd gladly hold your hand and walk you through it in your area (The Bronx, right?).

My wife refers to my garage as "day school" on Saturdays, as many of my friends come over and wrench and bench race in my garage. It's well equipped and comes with a resident expert (me)

It's fun and a good way to spend time with friends.

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Reaper


Expert Class
Posts: 112
posted June 23, 2008 03:41 AM        
With the brake fluid, not sure on the colour change but after a couple of track days I re-bled the brakes and found air in the lines, down at the calipers and also at the master cylinder.. Thought it was rather odd. Brakes were fine before, now they are diabolically good
____________
Katie: 2006 ZX-14.. 186.69HP 110.68ftlb,
Ti-Force Twin High mount Slip-ons, Hyperpro Steering Damper, Sato rearsets, Carbon Fibre Lowers, lower rear wing, Tank Pad, Hugger, Ohlins Road and Track Rear Shock, HID low beam, Sato Rearsets, ASV Levers, Goodridge Carbo-Line Braided front and rear Brake lines, Galfer Braided Clutch line, ZX-10 Front Fender, EK ZZZ Drive chain, Driven rear sprocket, Pipercross Race filter, Powercommander, Secondary Butterflys removed

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nyc zx-14


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Manager Star Toyota Bayside,NY
Posts: 214
posted August 18, 2008 06:13 PM        
I switched to semi synthetic at the first oil change. (500 miles) was this wrong to do? What's the advantage to running conventional oil for the first few thousand miles and not switching to synthetic sooner??
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street racer


Expert Class
Posts: 141
posted August 18, 2008 06:33 PM        
I drained the coolant on my 06 and replaced it with water wetter and distilled water. Helped it a lot ! The gauge shows one or two bars on the highway and will hit 3 bars in stop and go traffic. Never has gone over 3 bars or had any odor. And that includes riding in 103 degree weather and a lot of high 90 degree temps.
____________

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stevewfl


Moderator
Posts: 27920
posted August 18, 2008 09:03 PM        
interesting thread
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2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
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