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posted March 16, 2008 02:49 PM
Sato rearsets Spiegler brake light switch issues
First Issue:
I installed my right-side Sato rearsets and I'm having issues with the rear brake light staying on. We unplugged the light and plugged back them back in and it seemed to work.
I taped everything up and when I turned the bike back on the brake light was stuck on...
Second Issue:
The brake light...when it was working, wasn't coming on until the rear brake was applied to full travel...this won't do me any good if I have to lock the rear wheel in order for the rear brake light to be activated.
Random thoughts:
I thought it was strange that the Spielger brake light pressure switch came with two crush washers that went on top of the brake line. Sato instructions said to use both, they just doesn't tell you where (picture appears to have two washers between brake line and light switch bolt - Sato instructions aren't very clear and for the most part generic for all sportbikes). There was already a washer between the brake line and the master cylinder. I was thinking that maybe using two washers on top that the holes in the Spiegler pressure switch bolt may not be lining up properly.
There were no issues with the brakes working properly after they were bled.
Any ideas on what the problem might be and how to fix or what to try to fix???
Thank you in advance.
____________
black zx14 - Brock's Gen3 Carbon, PCIII, no secondaries, Carrozzeria wheels, Sato rearsets, Pazzo levers, GPR V4 steering damper, Puig windscreen, Tiger Racing chain guard
  
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dubious
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posted March 17, 2008 05:22 AM
I no longer have a rear brake switch.... I always use the frt brakes, and rarely use the rear except to set up, or light scrub in corners....
They gave you 2 banjo washers, one for bottom of switch, between brake line and switch, one for top, between bolt and switch... never double up banjo washers in any application, and always use new ones, in fact i would replace the one under the bottom of the brake line to, since the bolt was removed, and the brake line likely did as well.
The wiring issues are confusing the way you have stated,
reverse your wires? or you have a short to ground, activating the light conatantly?
if there is air in the switch you will have to apply more pressure to activate it, I think it is not bled yet.
1) Installing banjo washers proper would be my 1st step,
2) proper bleeding with mighty vac would be second
3) test switch activation with continuity meter before plugging in wires would be #3
4) plug harness into switch,
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natural selection.....
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Some are not worthy of the effort.
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slates
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posted March 17, 2008 05:27 AM
Thanks dubuious.
Your thoughts are exactly like mine. I didn't understand why two crush washers would be on top of the banjo bracket, but I swear the picture they show in the instructions of a Honda CBR looks like two are mounted on top. I just spoke to a guy at Spiegler and he thought the same thing. By using the 2nd crush washer on top I don't think the holes in the banjo bracket and the bolt are aligning properly.
I'm going to follow your steps and bleed the brakes again, no matter what. I purchased a nice pump just for this procedure.
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black zx14 - Brock's Gen3 Carbon, PCIII, no secondaries, Carrozzeria wheels, Sato rearsets, Pazzo levers, GPR V4 steering damper, Puig windscreen, Tiger Racing chain guard
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slates
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posted March 17, 2008 11:43 AM
Update:
I spoke to Sato Racing and they told me to contact Kyle Racing, one of the main US distributors. Alex from Kyle suggested I do like I was planning, put one crush washer on top and one underneath the banjo bracket, re-bleed the brakes and test. He said if that didn't work that he would send me a new brake light pressure switch at no charge.
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black zx14 - Brock's Gen3 Carbon, PCIII, no secondaries, Carrozzeria wheels, Sato rearsets, Pazzo levers, GPR V4 steering damper, Puig windscreen, Tiger Racing chain guard
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slates
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posted March 19, 2008 07:16 AM
Update:
I followed the following steps and still no luck with brake light switch:
1) bled brakes; tested
2) put one crush washer above banjo bracket and one below, bled brakes, tested
After making each change, I turn on the power to the bike and the brake light is on constantly. I then disconnect the brake light pressure switch from the stock brake light wires and reconnect them. The brake light will then work, but only under full brake pedal travel. If I turn the bike off and back on, the brake light is on continuously, again. This is confusing to me.
I don't have a meter to test the stock brake wires, but they worked prior to me cutting them from the stock rearsets. I'll be calling Sato's importer, Kyle Racing today, and they'll send be a new pressures switch. As for now, the stock bolt is in and now brake light with the rear brakes.
____________
black zx14 - Brock's Gen3 Carbon, PCIII, no secondaries, Carrozzeria wheels, Sato rearsets, Pazzo levers, GPR V4 steering damper, Puig windscreen, Tiger Racing chain guard
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dubious
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posted March 19, 2008 07:47 AM
 Edited By: dubious on 19 Mar 2008 08:50
Just throwin idea's out there to help....
Full pedal travel, or full pedal pressure applied?
Still thinking its not bled.....
Those brakes can be a bitch to bleed.. even with a mighty vac.
I filled the resevoir 3-4 times before I got all the air out when i changed to stainless lines!
They gave you a new, longer banjobolt with2 ports cut in it right?
1 for the line to the caliper, and 1 for the switch?
you are not reusing the banjo washers right?
go to radio shack or pep boys or what have you, and get a cheap ohm/ volt meter...
you'll need it again someday anyway...
no way to test the componets without the right tools bro...
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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slates
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posted March 19, 2008 09:00 AM
I'm sure my neighbor has an ohm/volt meter...I'll check it tonight.
I bled the living p!ss out of that rear brake to be sure....probably filled that resevoir 8+ times making sure it never ran dry. I pumped the brakes and used a Craftsman bleeder from Sears.
I did not use the stock crush washers.
The brake light switch bolt did have two ports, one through the center to the master cylinder and one for the banjo from the rear brake line.
I just spoke to Alex from Kyle Racing and he's having a new one sent to me from Spiegler. I described the problems I was having and he believes it's a bad switch.
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black zx14 - Brock's Gen3 Carbon, PCIII, no secondaries, Carrozzeria wheels, Sato rearsets, Pazzo levers, GPR V4 steering damper, Puig windscreen, Tiger Racing chain guard
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stevewfl
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posted March 19, 2008 09:22 AM
you can contact SATO directly for tech support at 831-899-1822, or info@satoracing.com
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2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
CBR600RR track bike
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slates
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posted March 19, 2008 09:32 AM
Steve,
I contacted Sato...they sent me to Alex at Kyle Racing. Kyle is one of the few importers of Sato rearsets. I purchased mine through Motomummy and they got them from Kyle.
Alex's customer service at Kyle was excellent. I should have the new switch in a day since Spiegle is located less than an hour north of where I live.
BTW - New gold Carrozzeria's on order from Brock to match rearsets and Pazzo levers...hopefully they'll be installed in early April with pictures to follow.
____________
black zx14 - Brock's Gen3 Carbon, PCIII, no secondaries, Carrozzeria wheels, Sato rearsets, Pazzo levers, GPR V4 steering damper, Puig windscreen, Tiger Racing chain guard
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stevewfl
Moderator
Posts: 27920
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posted March 19, 2008 09:40 AM
quote:
Steve,
I contacted Sato...they sent me to Alex at Kyle Racing. Kyle is one of the few importers of Sato rearsets. I purchased mine through Motomummy and they got them from Kyle.
Alex's customer service at Kyle was excellent. I should have the new switch in a day since Spiegle is located less than an hour north of where I live.
oops, apologies I didn't realize - glad you're getting great support 
____________
2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
CBR600RR track bike
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slates
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Posts: 377
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posted March 28, 2008 05:43 AM
Update:
Received new pressure switch directly from Spiegler and installed. The rear brake still has to travel a lot further than I'd like to activate the brake light. I happened to discover what I think the problem was all along. The two wire connectors would touch after I taped up the connection which would activate the rear brake light and make it stay on continuously. This time I taped each connection off separately then taped them together with black electrical tape. Problem solved.
____________
black zx14 - Brock's Gen3 Carbon, PCIII, no secondaries, Carrozzeria wheels, Sato rearsets, Pazzo levers, GPR V4 steering damper, Puig windscreen, Tiger Racing chain guard
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