hardcoremass
Expert Class
Powerhouse
Posts: 112
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posted October 23, 2007 03:17 PM
Stripped screw-screwed?
For as much preperation I put into removing the secondaries, you would of figured a trained monkey could have done it. Happened to strip the L screw on the first plate of the L side of engine. Really feal like a dumb shit. Any suggestions on how to remove would be appreciated.
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07 zx14 (black), flies removed, BMC race filter, Muzzys M10, PClll, PC ignition module, RT ext, Muzzy lowering links, 40 shot spray
  
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hardcoremass
Expert Class
Powerhouse
Posts: 112
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posted October 23, 2007 03:28 PM
By the way, started with a fresh #2. Had all seven removed when I ran into problems on the L side. Think I had the screwdriver at slight angle. Wondering if they make an extraction point on a 10# driver?
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07 zx14 (black), flies removed, BMC race filter, Muzzys M10, PClll, PC ignition module, RT ext, Muzzy lowering links, 40 shot spray
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Wheelie
Needs a life
Old Man
Posts: 6902
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posted October 23, 2007 03:33 PM
quote:
By the way, started with a fresh #2. Had all seven removed when I ran into problems on the L side. Think I had the screwdriver at slight angle. Wondering if they make an extraction point on a 10# driver?
the screws are metric. just a suggestion, drill out the screw head while holding a vacuum cleaner hose on it to catch the shavings? wee
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fastestbusaaround
Needs a life
I eat Fish...
Posts: 7889
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posted October 23, 2007 03:49 PM
That happened to me ass well, on more than one. Here's what I did...
Didn't have shopvac handy but had my compressor so, I had my bud hold the flies closed and I drilled that MOFO out and made a fucking mess or it. I lightly blew the shavings out and then opened the flies and did the same on the bottom plates, then, when done, let the air gun go at full PSI and did the entire airbox from A-Z for about 15 minutes, checked with bright LED flashlight and repeated the air gun again a few times. It all came out no problem clean as a whistle. I had the same problem on the same side as you. I should have used a pointed #2 with at least an 8" shaft.
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FYYFF!!!
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jdzx14
Expert Class
Posts: 412
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posted October 23, 2007 03:57 PM
Let me tell you the easiest way to solve this problem if your lucky. There is a tool that is a screw driver with a grip on the end that twist when your hammer on it, its made to take out tight screws.. If your lucky it will work.. What i did was use the correct screw driver and light tap on it with a small hammer and it got all mine loose. Good luck too, dont get impatient..
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2007 Black ZX-14
Lowering links, Brocks Strap Kit, Muzzy Full 4-2-1, No files, PC3, BMC Race filter, 6 inch extensions,16/44, Shinko 003 Ultra Soft..... SOLD!!!!!
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hardcoremass
Expert Class
Powerhouse
Posts: 112
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posted October 23, 2007 03:59 PM
I was thinking of using a fine flat head, grind to exact fitment, and try to get that bastrard out. As you can see, still a little irritated about the whole deal...
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07 zx14 (black), flies removed, BMC race filter, Muzzys M10, PClll, PC ignition module, RT ext, Muzzy lowering links, 40 shot spray
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted October 23, 2007 05:49 PM
Do NOT pound on that screw.............  Whatever you choose to do.................do it gently......and make sure nothing falls down the throttlebody.
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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stevewfl
Moderator
Posts: 27920
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posted October 23, 2007 06:39 PM
why vacuum, the primary flies are going to stop anything from getting in the motor. do what you gotta' do and just take the air compressor hose and blow it out. maybe then vacuum if it makes you feel good, but NOTHING will be there, not even pieces of that locktight crap that was on every one of my screws.
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2010 Concours14
'08 R1 YAMAHA
ZX14 gone!
CBR600RR track bike
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badzx14
Expert Class
needs more power!!!!!
Posts: 126
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posted October 24, 2007 08:07 AM
I had one head twist completely off drilled it out and had no problems,I even used the right phillips head.Sometimes shit happens.
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Smurfslayer
Novice Class
Posts: 37
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posted October 24, 2007 11:48 AM
Did you strip the screw threads, or the head of the screw?
You have a couple choices.
If it's the screw head:
Long curved needle nose pliers or vice grips.
"screw outs" from craftsman, and I'm sure many more will also work if you stripped the head, not the threads though. If you use this method, you will need to maintain firm contact with what's left of the screw head.
These screws have a mild thread locker on them. The tapping with a hammer is to break the thread locker loose. DON'T use a 3 pound, no bounce hammer for this for the Love of Christ! Tap GENTLY !
You may want to augment with a little - and I mean little - heat
Repeat after me class:
Open flame around gas bad, mmkay?
Once you break the threads loose, the screw will come out fine - unless it's the threads you've stripped. If that's the case...\
I'd put the remaining screw back in that fly. cover the other throttle ports. PULL that damn screw from the shaft and blow out with compressed air. You may want to use a dental pick, or similar device to ensure there are no threads left in the hole, then blow it out. remove the final screw and you're done.
HTH
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Dave
www.usrkba.org
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fury
Expert Class
Posts: 427
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posted October 24, 2007 02:07 PM
Same problem here...
I took putty and sealed the fly to the carb wall. This restricted the fly's from being opened.
Take a small sharp standard screw driver. Slot the screw. Hit it repeatedly on 1 side till you can see a grove. Then focus on the other side. Do not split the head!
Once that is done use a slot screw driver that fits across the whole head. Wrap the screw driver with a tac hammer. This will shock the sealant used to secure the head. Then proceed to unscrew the screw.
Once that screw has been removed the putty will still hold the fly in place. Use a set of needle nose plyers to remove the fly and putty. Make sue the walls are clean. Blow them out with compressed air if you do not have an air compressor.
Hope it helps.
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ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted October 24, 2007 05:09 PM
If you beat on it and bend the shaft....trouble.
If you open the fly and move the plate up and down the one screw should break loose....then long vice grips or pliers can remove it.
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2006 Turbo ZX-14.
2005 V-max 20th Anniv.
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MasterBlaster
Expert Class
Posts: 297
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posted October 24, 2007 05:11 PM
I took a pair of extra long 90 deg needle nose pliers. Cut off the needle nose about half way. That left the thick part of the jaw that wouldnt give when you put pressure on it. With the long handles you can put a tremendous amount of grip on it, and doing about 1/4 turn at a time it came right out.
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redsnake2
Novice Class
Posts: 73
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posted October 25, 2007 12:44 AM
Anybody here ever heard of an EZ-out?
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zxbob
Pro
Posts: 1692
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posted October 25, 2007 03:38 AM
 Edited By: zxbob on 25 Oct 2007 04:39
If your drilling ...... coat the inside of the throttle body and the secondary plate with
wheel bearing grease and drill it out. The grease will catch all the shavings.
Remove the plate - wipe the grease out with a rag and your done !
Bob
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Good parts aint cheap and cheap parts aint good !
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mooniac
Novice Class
Posts: 31
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posted October 25, 2007 03:40 AM
Screw extractors is the way to go. I picked up a set cheap at an air show but sears or any of the tool vendors is sure to have them. They have saved my ass whille building my plane many times
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07 R1, 07 FJR, 07 ZX14
(soon),
F1 ROCKET(300 HP Home
built Airplane) And it is faster
then your ZX14!!! (alot)
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Redsnake2
Novice Class
Posts: 73
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posted October 25, 2007 11:16 AM
quote:
Screw extractors is the way to go. I picked up a set cheap at an air show but sears or any of the tool vendors is sure to have them. They have saved my ass whille building my plane many times
yes we call them EZ-outs and they will save you alot of headaches. We use them all the time in Aviation
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hardcoremass
Expert Class
Powerhouse
Posts: 112
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posted October 25, 2007 02:48 PM
Edited By: hardcoremass on 25 Oct 2007 15:53
Today was a good day. I was able to remove final screw..... Hopefully this technique will help others with this problem. I used a fresh #2 phillips head, removed approx 1/32" off tip allowing blades to seat into screw head. Applied a good amount of pressure while slightly TIGHTENING screw, then very carefully remove screw. Thanks for all the advice on this, it was greatly appreciated.
Edit.. I used a fresh file to remove tip of phillips head followed by re-shaping blades to allow them to grab head of screw! Feel this is the reason the procedure worked.
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07 zx14 (black), flies removed, BMC race filter, Muzzys M10, PClll, PC ignition module, RT ext, Muzzy lowering links, 40 shot spray
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted October 25, 2007 03:38 PM
Good deal.................  What a relief huh? 
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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hardcoremass
Expert Class
Powerhouse
Posts: 112
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posted October 25, 2007 03:43 PM
Yes, I wasn't real excited about drilling in the throat. Never liked the dentist, don't care to perform their work either.
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07 zx14 (black), flies removed, BMC race filter, Muzzys M10, PClll, PC ignition module, RT ext, Muzzy lowering links, 40 shot spray
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted October 25, 2007 04:42 PM
Heh heh............... 
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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butundo
Parking Attendant
Posts: 6
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posted October 25, 2007 07:33 PM
I destroyed the screw that you are talking about. Pounding with a chisel to remove the head. Real bad idea. The shaft is slightly bent. When I start the bike the shaft turns but gets stuck. I have to pull on the george forman grill and manually give it a bump with my finger to complete the turn. Real pain in the ass. I have to do this EVERY TIME, or I will get the F1 fuel injection error. Over the winter, i will try to straighten out the shaft and remove the little section of screw that is still in the shaft.
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nightmare
Pro
ACP Racing
Posts: 1797
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posted October 26, 2007 10:58 AM
Yes they do make an extractor small enough for these. I am a F-18 fight aircraft Mech and we come across stripped screws everyday. most of the time, We drill the head off and run a number 40 cobalt drill bit into the shank about a 1/4 of an inch deep. Then, send the extractor inside the shank and it is out with ease. you could do the same of the flies but make sure you use axel grease of something to that extent in order to catch the shavings falling inside your engine. If you have a hard time finding an extractor small enough, send me a PM and I'll see what I can do!
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2006 ZX14 Ninja "SWINE FLU"
60ft 1.23
8th Mile 5.16
ACP Racing
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warbird
Needs a job
Posts: 2739
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posted October 26, 2007 11:46 AM
Hey nightmare..................when I was in the Air Force, the engine shop boys ( and girls ) would break off bolts ( inside the turbine area..........WAY hi heat temps, VERY brittle bolts ), then drill and break off easy outs in the bolts.............then call me........... from the machine shop to come fix the mess.  The sheet metal shop guys ( and girls ) would strip an entire panel full of screws on the flightline, and call us ( machine shop ) to come remove them..........Glad to see you get after the stripped stuff yourself.................... This was back in the early 70's.............Vietnam era..........things are probably a little differnt now.
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I'd Rather Be Roadracing.
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mike1024
Expert Class
Posts: 172
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posted October 27, 2007 03:41 PM
haha. Thats why you apply downward pressure. Glad its OK..
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