blackbullet76
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Posts: 1134
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posted March 10, 2007 10:59 AM
 Edited By: blackbullet76 on 10 Mar 2007 11:00
pointers on NOT wheelying :)
Im fixing to be taking the 14 to the dragstrip very soon and I'm looking for any advice on how to take off on this thing and keep it from coming straight up with me. I never had that problem on my zx6r, but this thing has almost triple the torque. I know strapping the front will help, but I want to try it at stock height first. Maybe a walk through on getting through the first two gears. BTW, it's an 1/8 mile track.
   
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ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted March 10, 2007 11:19 AM
It was tough for me........just a matter of practicing clutch control......
My very first run I let out like on the street and the front end snapped up.........GOOD traction out there :-)
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dbeadling
Zone Head
Posts: 699
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posted March 10, 2007 12:38 PM
feather the clutch
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bigdtd
Needs a job
Interceptors
Posts: 4209
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posted March 10, 2007 02:31 PM
ask smokin....
____________
2006 Black ZX-14,6 inches over,16/42, flies out,BMC Street Filter,Brock's Street Meg,Brock's Radial Mount Strap,PClll with Race map,Dynojet LCD w/Techmount, ZX-14 fender eliminator,Pilot Power2CTs,Speedohealer,Pazzo Levers,Cox Radiator Guard, Garmin Nuvi 265WT
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dubious
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Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted March 10, 2007 05:57 PM
I think you'll be hard pressed to keep her down in 1stgear for sure. Slip the clutch when it starts to lift, but do not let off the gas, stay in it.
Notice i said slip, that means in and out, if you slip it , and dump it while pegged, you stand the chance of flipping. Pro bikers rarely get out of the throttle, they slip the clutch to control frt wheel altitude.
I find it comes up around 7500-8000, and when i slip it , its into the rev limiter, so i ride out the lift, till bout 9500 then grab 2nd gear, and it USUALLY will stay down in second after the
upshift.
You could drop the forks 1.25 " and lower the rear with new links, that made a world of difference for me. An everyday driver alternative.
I lowered both ends 1.25" as thats all the clearance the frt fender has with full travel, and if you lower the rear more than the front (which will make a tremendous difference for drag racing) the cornering habits will suck.
Front end push....
Even brock davidson had issues with trying to launch the stock wheelbase, and suspension height, as it really like to lift off, on a prepped track.
Good luck.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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nightmare
Pro
ACP Racing
Posts: 1797
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posted March 10, 2007 10:39 PM
ride the living shit out of the clutch baby!
____________
2006 ZX14 Ninja "SWINE FLU"
60ft 1.23
8th Mile 5.16
ACP Racing
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ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted March 11, 2007 12:09 AM
quote:
..........
You could drop the forks 1.25 " and lower the rear with new links, that made a world of difference for me. An everyday driver alternative......
Good luck.
As long as you don't turn.......1.25 and I would be grinding off the pegs/fairing/cases on every turn :-) I had to raise mine back up after riding with .75 for a while.....
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blackbullet76
Pro
Posts: 1134
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posted March 11, 2007 05:20 AM
Thanks guys. I'll try high rpms and ride the clutch out, then I'll do a quick upshift to 2nd. We'll see how it goes 
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted March 11, 2007 05:36 AM
Edited By: smokinzx14 on 11 Mar 2007 07:38
quote:
Thanks guys. I'll try high rpms and ride the clutch out, then I'll do a quick upshift to 2nd. We'll see how it goes
Do you have the flys out ?? If you do you can leave at a lower RPM like 3500 and not have to slip the clutch so much... The problem with flys in place is if you leave below 5500, 6000 rpms it will wheely when you hit 7000 rpm everytime..With flys in anything below 5500 it will bog and when it hits 7000 rpms the bike will wheely...Its a very fine line and not that easy to master... seat time is the only thing that helps....Flys in > stage at 5500 and slide clutch and not let the rpms drop below 5500 by adding throttle as the clutch is comes out.. Once the clutch is out start twisting the throttle to full open...The faster you can get the throttle pinned (without a wheely) the faster your ET .... Like i said it a fine line....With the flys out 3500 stage and use the throttle to keep it at 3500...once the clutch is out pin the throttle to wide open as soon as you can without a wheely....It's still a fine line with the flys out but much easier to do than flys in place ... With flys in place the zx14 is like an old H2 750 tripple ( bogs till it hits the power band) and then all hell breaks loose...Flys out it's more like and old kz1000 ( smooth power from 3000 to 11000)... Anything in the 1.60 60 foot will get you deep into the nines ( unless you weigh 250+ pounds)..... 1.7s and 1.8s will be 10s.....I have gone 1.50 60 times at stock wheel base but with a lot of work to get there...Nothing helps more than lots of seat time, you have to learn the bike and get a feel for what the bike wants.... To get fast you need to be automatic , meaning you don't have to think about it.....Best info i can give you is have fun and don't get upset when things go wrong...Keep trying and don't give up, the gains will come slowly but they will come ....Remember you own a 9 second bike, it has the power but you have to learn to use it...Now go have fun........Smokin...
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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blackbullet76
Pro
Posts: 1134
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posted March 11, 2007 09:45 AM
Edited By: blackbullet76 on 11 Mar 2007 10:46
Dang, now that's detailed Yeah, I have the flys out with a programmer. I think it will take me a little bit to hit full throttle in first like your talking about. I've only nailed it in third and fourth so far and it's a rush and a half! I'll definitely work on it. I'll post my times up after I get to go. A good day at the track on this thing for me will be not flipping over backwards, wish me luck Oh, and thanks!!!
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted March 11, 2007 10:05 AM
Edited By: dubious on 11 Mar 2007 11:13
quote:
quote:
..........
You could drop the forks 1.25 " and lower the rear with new links, that made a world of difference for me. An everyday driver alternative......
Good luck.
As long as you don't turn.......1.25 and I would be grinding off the pegs/fairing/cases on every turn :-) I had to raise mine back up after riding with .75 for a while.....
I call bulshit
Sorry.
I haven't hardly dragged any parts, I have no chicken strips.
AND....unlike others here who seem to post more than ride, and build turbos for 10 months, I haven't layed mine down either..... ahem, ahem ....
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted March 11, 2007 10:09 AM
quote:
quote:
Thanks guys. I'll try high rpms and ride the clutch out, then I'll do a quick upshift to 2nd. We'll see how it goes
Do you have the flys out ?? If you do you can leave at a lower RPM like 3500 and not have to slip the clutch so much... The problem with flys in place is if you leave below 5500, 6000 rpms it will wheely when you hit 7000 rpm everytime..With flys in anything below 5500 it will bog and when it hits 7000 rpms the bike will wheely...Its a very fine line and not that easy to master... seat time is the only thing that helps....Flys in > stage at 5500 and slide clutch and not let the rpms drop below 5500 by adding throttle as the clutch is comes out.. Once the clutch is out start twisting the throttle to full open...The faster you can get the throttle pinned (without a wheely) the faster your ET .... Like i said it a fine line....With the flys out 3500 stage and use the throttle to keep it at 3500...once the clutch is out pin the throttle to wide open as soon as you can without a wheely....It's still a fine line with the flys out but much easier to do than flys in place ... With flys in place the zx14 is like an old H2 750 tripple ( bogs till it hits the power band) and then all hell breaks loose...Flys out it's more like and old kz1000 ( smooth power from 3000 to 11000)... Anything in the 1.60 60 foot will get you deep into the nines ( unless you weigh 250+ pounds)..... 1.7s and 1.8s will be 10s.....I have gone 1.50 60 times at stock wheel base but with a lot of work to get there...Nothing helps more than lots of seat time, you have to learn the bike and get a feel for what the bike wants.... To get fast you need to be automatic , meaning you don't have to think about it.....Best info i can give you is have fun and don't get upset when things go wrong...Keep trying and don't give up, the gains will come slowly but they will come ....Remember you own a 9 second bike, it has the power but you have to learn to use it...Now go have fun........Smokin...
My exact same experience too smokin.
Launching was a nightmare witht the flies in, cause of the bog wheelie, and my clutch was becoming abused.
Last june I removed the flies and it became a much better machine out of the hole, no need for massive clutch slipping.
Plus if you short shift 1st due to a wheelie, 2nd would pull much better under 7000 rpm.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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flyboy
Pro
Posts: 1536
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posted March 11, 2007 12:32 PM
What's a good RPM to slip into 2nd and 3rd? Are you looking at the tach or just going by the sound of the engine?
____________
'There's more living in five minutes flat-out on a bike than some men have in an entire life'.
"The World's Fastest Indian"
One fast red ZX-14,
Three World and four National Land Speed Records,
One faster red and white Cessna Turbo 210
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ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted March 11, 2007 03:55 PM
Edited By: ninja14 on 11 Mar 2007 18:02
quote:
quote:
quote:
..........
You could drop the forks 1.25 " and lower the rear with new links, that made a world of difference for me. An everyday driver alternative......
Good luck.
As long as you don't turn.......1.25 and I would be grinding off the pegs/fairing/cases on every turn :-) I had to raise mine back up after riding with .75 for a while.....
I call bulshit
Sorry.
I haven't hardly dragged any parts, I have no chicken strips.
AND....unlike others here who seem to post more than ride, and build turbos for 10 months, I haven't layed mine down either..... ahem, ahem ....
Not my fault if you are not good enough to drag anything. I drug plastics easy and my crash was my fault - dragging the pegs on purpose - beacause I can......and went in too hot into a curve that was UPHILL so the suspension bottomed out. We can ride anytime you like.......
As for the turbo - doubt you could build one AT ALL.........and those of of us who can build one may be busy and can't just work on it everyday.......and may have to wait on parts suppliers.....
Guess it boils down to "kiss my ass" :-)
Yellow is scrubbed and red is a hole.......
Big deal - easy......no strips on first ride of a new tire:
Or less lean and more power:
This is not a real handling bike.......it's a fast tourer :-)
10K+...pic from a while back.......less than 8months of riding it.....
Got another bike, a truck and a buncha cars, but got a FEW miles on the 14.....including 2 Iron Butts .....1000+ miles done twice in a two weeks and one covered 1040 miles in well under 16hrs......including pegging the speedo on Interstate 5 at night.....
So I ride and know what the hell I am talking about.......
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ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted March 11, 2007 04:58 PM
Edited By: ninja14 on 11 Mar 2007 18:03
So my point is that I know FIRSTHAND that lowering the bike CAN be dangerous. I don't know attwhat level someone may ride and would like them to be warned........vs. some azz who impunes the technical and riding skills of a man he never met or saw ride......
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smokinzx14
Needs a life
Posts: 10197
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posted March 11, 2007 05:20 PM
quote:
What's a good RPM to slip into 2nd and 3rd? Are you looking at the tach or just going by the sound of the engine?
I don't know if you where asking me but i'll tell you what i do ..... First to second i go by sound because i just don't have the time to look at the gauges, second to third and up i use the Gauges and shift at 11000......Smokin..
____________
Smokin Performance Cycles..
Tampa Bay , FL .. Brocks Performance Dealer ..
Gen 2 ZX14R Best ET 8.43 , Best MPH 164.95
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dubious
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Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted March 11, 2007 06:55 PM
Edited By: dubious on 11 Mar 2007 20:01
Anyone can drag parts till they wipe out.
A good rider finds the bikes limitations and stays just far enough away from them.
When you started dragging panels the foot pegs were already folding up, that should have been your first clue.
Anyone who pushes their machine till the tires overheat and ball up, while dragging parts on the street has balls for sure, as i said a good rider would not push the machine till it crashes, and a mature rider would not push the machine to , and beyond its limits on the street.
Pavement conditions, oil, greese, coolant, sand, even dog shit on the road could take you out, additionally, you have other vehicles, squids, and many other unconrolled conditons and variables.
As for the name calling, double posting and caps locks, it just enforces my opinion of you.
Oh... and why would you want to make it faster before handling better since your dragging hardparts already?... :P
You should have bought a literbike, but i bet your balls are bigger than your brain and you would wipe that out too.
Have a nice day there Crash! 
Maybe if you didn't troll every post, and know it all , I never would have called you out.
It was too easy.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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dubious
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Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted March 11, 2007 06:59 PM
quote:
quote:
What's a good RPM to slip into 2nd and 3rd? Are you looking at the tach or just going by the sound of the engine?
I don't know if you where asking me but i'll tell you what i do ..... First to second i go by sound because i just don't have the time to look at the gauges, second to third and up i use the Gauges and shift at 11000......Smokin..
+1,
I have the shift light set for 10,800, and by the time I react its about to stutter! LOL
I use the light on blink mode, I find It catches my attention much better, but plan to wire an LED shift light up to the existing factory one.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
|
ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted March 11, 2007 08:14 PM
Edited By: ninja14 on 11 Mar 2007 21:15
As I said....you calling BS was BS.....it is unsafe to lower this oversized bike 1.5 inches as even half of than can cause problems is you try to ride at "normal" levels. Newer members here want to trust you b/c of your almost 3000 posts, but his one should make them think twice....
(I have plenty more posts than that on another popular 14 site and get due respect for my assistance)
That is why it is called an "accident." If you have never crashed then you may need to post less and ride more yourself.............it happens as a matter of course.
If you read the posts you will see that selling the kit is one of my goals.....not just to simply go faster. There are not enough handling parts out there to make this thing turn well, but to make it fast.....easy and there is a bigger market for it.
I had an R1 and it was stolen right outta my garage.....an actual turnable machine.....
Reading post and posting is trolling now? How many have you posted in?....must be King Troll by now.... I only answered to share info I know to be true.......
No matter what you think of me (nobody cares) lowering the bike 1.5 is still not a great idea if you plan to ride away from the dragstrip and make any turns.
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dubious
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Needs more time to ride!
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posted March 11, 2007 09:17 PM
Edited By: dubious on 11 Mar 2007 22:20
Oh, I have crashed, its part of the learning curve, and learned what it felt like at the limits of adhesion, I also grew up and don't play ricky racer anywhere but in a straight line occaisoinally on EMPTY public roads....
Dangerous to lower.... nope not if you ride within sane speeds through blind corners, and know the roads you ride.
If the guys are looking for brake markers, and aiming at apexe's it aught to be on a track, and on a machine meant for that.
Oh, and I know who you are on the other site... you are "helping on"
As far as internet tough guy crap you mention in the other post, if you traveled to the Canadian border you would be meeting me 1/2 the way.
LOL
Everyone is tough at their keyboard ... LOL
I won't even waste my time on that discussion, its like bench racing... YAWN.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
|
ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted March 11, 2007 09:24 PM
Edited By: ninja14 on 11 Mar 2007 22:24
"Everyone is tough at their keyboard ... LOL
I won't even waste my time on that discussion, its like bench racing... YAWN."
Yep
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blackbullet76
Pro
Posts: 1134
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posted March 12, 2007 04:35 AM
ding ding ding.....back to your corners!
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dubious
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Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted March 12, 2007 05:40 AM
sorry for hijakin yur thread
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
|
ninja14
Pro
Posts: 1136
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posted March 12, 2007 07:28 AM
As for not going into a wheelie:
I just worked the throttle more than the clutch, but have straps on the way. I don't want to have to trailer the bike, but want an all-around great performer that can make it to the strip and back under its own power. Wanting to still ride canyons means for me that I can't extend or lower the bike in a permenantly so straps seem to be about it......and practice.
I did some runs w/o the shift light to find right where on the tach the limiter hit and then just started shifting based on that b/c the higher you can spin it the higher it will be on the tach when you shift......thus maintaing the most power posssible.
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blackbullet76
Pro
Posts: 1134
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posted March 12, 2007 10:16 AM
Yeah, I just need to go to the track and try different stuff, but I think working the clutch will be the best for me. I just hope I'll be able to click it up in third in the 1/8th. I won't be afraid to go full throttle in that gear.
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