phytrax
Zone Head
Posts: 526
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posted December 22, 2006 07:10 AM
Help with Front Sprocket Cover
I'm trying to change my front sprocket and I'm having some trouble getting the cover off. I see there's a smaller cover on top of the main cover with a hydraulic cable attached to it. I didn't want to remove that and drain fluid all over if I didn't have to. I found a smaller bolt to the front of the cover sort of hidden and removed that too, but it still won't come off. I tried tapping on it some but don't want to damage anything. What else do I need to do?
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Concourse14- Corbin Seat, Candy Apple Red Paint, Area P Slip-On
RIP+ZX-14- Brock's Gen3, Heli Risers, Corbin Bags, Corbin Seat and Oval Backrest (Burgandy Snakeskin and black alligator), Muzzys Frame Sliders, flies out, 18t front sprocket, PC3, Puig Double Bubble, Pirelli Diablo Strada's
KX450F - kickstand
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zerMATT
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted December 22, 2006 07:25 AM
 Edited By: zerMATT on 22 Dec 2006 07:32
If it's similar to my ZZ-R1200, I'm pretty sure that you have to remove that little cover too. It's the hydraulic clutch actuator, and it's safe to pull off. It's an enclosed piston/plunger that simply pushes a shaft that goes through the tranny to actuate the clutch on the other side. Removing it will not release any fluid, and it's a snap to reinstall.
Now I'm second-guessing myself... is there a picture of this thing around here somewhere?
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14 | Black D&D Slip-ons | Speedo Healer | V1 | zumo 550 | Heli-Risers | PhantomX
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zerMATT
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted December 22, 2006 07:29 AM
Edited By: zerMATT on 22 Dec 2006 07:43
Also, check out this thread - it may help a little too:
http://www.bikeland.org/board/viewthread.php?FID=27&TID=23708
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14 | Black D&D Slip-ons | Speedo Healer | V1 | zumo 550 | Heli-Risers | PhantomX
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phytrax
Zone Head
Posts: 526
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posted December 22, 2006 08:16 AM
I read that other thread, it didn't help. I removed the smaller cover, like you said, and turns out I only had to remove the top bolt of that smaller cover, which was much longer than the other two. Now how do I get the sprocket off? Just unscrew it? I tried putting it in gear and I can't get enough torque on it like that. I might just need to put the back wheel back on and lock the brake. I was hoping I wouldn't have to, but ok.
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Concourse14- Corbin Seat, Candy Apple Red Paint, Area P Slip-On
RIP+ZX-14- Brock's Gen3, Heli Risers, Corbin Bags, Corbin Seat and Oval Backrest (Burgandy Snakeskin and black alligator), Muzzys Frame Sliders, flies out, 18t front sprocket, PC3, Puig Double Bubble, Pirelli Diablo Strada's
KX450F - kickstand
>>> MySpace --CLICK-- <<<
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zerMATT
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted December 22, 2006 08:46 AM
I think most people have had the best luck with a good 1/2" impact wrench with the rear brake applied. It seems like others have also mentioned a little locking tab on a washer under the nut. I haven't seen that first hand though - just going from memory.
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14 | Black D&D Slip-ons | Speedo Healer | V1 | zumo 550 | Heli-Risers | PhantomX
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BlackMagic14
Needs a job
Posts: 2058
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posted December 22, 2006 10:44 AM
yes you have to flatten out the washer underneath the bolt and make sure you use a six point socket or you will round it off quick I used a BIG BREAKER bar on mine with a piece of wood slid through the rim to keep the back tire form turnin but I think an impact would be much easier
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flatoutbu
Pro
Posts: 1054
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posted December 22, 2006 10:47 AM
You have to have a good fitting socket to get the nut off. Mine was a bitch...i think i had more trouble than anybody trying to get it off. I eventually had to split the nut and take a hammer and punch to loosen it up. Put a bar with a rag wrapped around it in the back wheel and that will keep it from turning. Use a good long breaker bar and apply alot of pressure...normal threads "Righty tighty Lefty loosie"..... good luck
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06 Blue 14
9.008 at 153mph @ 195 suited
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted December 22, 2006 12:34 PM
unfold the lock washer tab, bent against the nut.
get someone to stand on the rear brake, I used an 18" johnson bar.
No problem.
use the same washer but, bend a different section of the washer.
Impact guns are bad for the bearings.
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
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zerMATT
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted December 22, 2006 03:17 PM
Edited By: zerMATT on 22 Dec 2006 15:33
Impact guns are better for bearings than an long breaker bar. Breaker bars can flat-spot bearings, and in extreme cases even crack the housing. An impact wrench's impact is circumfrencial, not lateral like a breaker bar. Locking the rear wheel (brakes or a 2x4) puts a majority of the stress on the chain and sprockets in a pulling fashion - just like the motor would do.
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14 | Black D&D Slip-ons | Speedo Healer | V1 | zumo 550 | Heli-Risers | PhantomX
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jarhead
Expert Class
Posts: 418
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posted December 23, 2006 08:39 PM
I have always used impacts and never had any problems but in pursuit of refining my skills I also have aways used the sh=tload method when putting the new sprocket on. Torque wrenches and I just don't get along, no place to hang the duct tape I guess. Where do you guys set your regulator when tightening the new sprocket ? Going to be putting the sprocket on this weekend if I can get away from the xmas stuff. I have always wondered if I am putting too much on the nut, I have never kept a bike long enough to have to take it back off. I am planning on keeping my 14.
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phytrax
Zone Head
Posts: 526
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posted December 24, 2006 05:13 AM
I managed to get it after a few hours of combat with the gods of torque. I got a 27mm socket and tried with my 3/8" ratchet, boy was that a joke. I pounded on it for a while with a hammer, no luck. Finally got a 1/2" breaker bar, about 18" long, had my son STAND on the back break with the bike in 1st and I was still turning the back wheel. Decided to pound on the breaker bar some with a regular claw hammer and finally broke it.
Thanks for the tips on the lock washer too, I've never seen one like that. My first attempt with the 3/8" was with the washer still locked, lol.
Putting it back on, I just cranked on the breaker bar one really good time and bent the washer in 3 spots actually. I think that should be more than enough to keep it on. Factory puts them a hair too tight in my opinion. I guess it's a CYA thing though, no sense in having inadequate torque case some major lawsuits.
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Concourse14- Corbin Seat, Candy Apple Red Paint, Area P Slip-On
RIP+ZX-14- Brock's Gen3, Heli Risers, Corbin Bags, Corbin Seat and Oval Backrest (Burgandy Snakeskin and black alligator), Muzzys Frame Sliders, flies out, 18t front sprocket, PC3, Puig Double Bubble, Pirelli Diablo Strada's
KX450F - kickstand
>>> MySpace --CLICK-- <<<
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CrotchRocket
Moderator
Bracket Racing with Betsy
Posts: 8038
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posted December 24, 2006 06:23 AM
Next time keep the bike in neutral, it may cost you tranny work!!!...Also use an 18inch pipe on the end of the breaker bar and watch how easy it loosens...Get yourself a torque wrench and torque the nut to 100lbs!!!
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Jason Miller StreetBike Seminars
*****DragRacers do it better, because they dont cut Corners*****
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phytrax
Zone Head
Posts: 526
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posted December 24, 2006 09:16 AM
I'm not sure how it would cause transmission damage since it shouldn't be any different than push starting the bike. Now I could see the impact from the hammer being more intense. Next time I'll put a block in the wheel and use neutral just to be safe.
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Concourse14- Corbin Seat, Candy Apple Red Paint, Area P Slip-On
RIP+ZX-14- Brock's Gen3, Heli Risers, Corbin Bags, Corbin Seat and Oval Backrest (Burgandy Snakeskin and black alligator), Muzzys Frame Sliders, flies out, 18t front sprocket, PC3, Puig Double Bubble, Pirelli Diablo Strada's
KX450F - kickstand
>>> MySpace --CLICK-- <<<
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted December 24, 2006 08:14 PM
quote:
Impact guns are better for bearings than an long breaker bar. Breaker bars can flat-spot bearings, and in extreme cases even crack the housing. An impact wrench's impact is circumfrencial, not lateral like a breaker bar. Locking the rear wheel (brakes or a 2x4) puts a majority of the stress on the chain and sprockets in a pulling fashion - just like the motor would do.
pffftt..........
seen many bad crankshaft bearings on snowmobiles from impacts hammering away, to remove the primary clutch .....
do what ya like.... impacts are bad for bearings!
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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kawabusakid
Expert Class
Fast as my $$ will take me
Posts: 292
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posted December 24, 2006 08:36 PM
you could have saved yourself some trouble,...just add alittle heat to the nut w/a handheld bottle torch to loosen up the locktite they put on them,and then a 1/2" impact it rite off,done in minutes,instead of hours
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blackbullet76
Pro
Posts: 1134
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posted December 26, 2006 11:33 AM
What sprocket are you guys using? Are you going up in teeth to correct speedo or going down to get more lowend? I wouldn't mind going up a tooth in front to correct my speed, I'm pretty sure its reading high from the factory. At least the odo shows a little more milage from a certain point A to B. Showing 5.1 miles from gas station to house. Old bike showed 5.0 miles, my car shows 4.8. Probably not a big difference, but it adds up over time.
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zerMATT
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted December 26, 2006 11:45 AM
Most guys are installing 16t fronts for more low-end. Some are going up to the 18t for better mileage, and a side-effect is that you correct the speedo somewhat.
The speedo calibration on the '14 is in the neighborhood of 7-10% off, depending on tire, tire wear, etc. The best way to compensate for that, and any gear selection that you make is to install a speedo healer. That way you can compensate for any combination with a few little dip switches. Plus, you get a top-speed recall button so you can impress your friends after a hig-speed run. 
Also, several people have tested the factory ODO and found that it is *very* close to accurate. So, if you try to compensate for the 7-10% speedo error, you will be making your ODO *off* by that much also. Just something to think about...
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14 | Black D&D Slip-ons | Speedo Healer | V1 | zumo 550 | Heli-Risers | PhantomX
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blackbullet76
Pro
Posts: 1134
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posted December 26, 2006 12:02 PM
Yeah but that will be in your favor, as it will show less miles, maybe helping in resale value down the road.
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zerMATT
Pro
Posts: 1931
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posted December 26, 2006 12:44 PM
True, but it makes accurate fuel mileage calculations difficult. 
I have the speedo healer installed now, and I'm adjusting mine down by 6.5% to compensate the speedo for most of it's innacuracy, so I'm gaining that 6.5% mileage on my ODO. I *do* like that feature!
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'06 Passion Red ZX-14 | Black D&D Slip-ons | Speedo Healer | V1 | zumo 550 | Heli-Risers | PhantomX
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Phytrax
Zone Head
Posts: 526
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posted December 29, 2006 03:17 AM
I'm very happy with the 18t front sprocket. I'd still like to see some real track ET's of 18t compared to 16t with foot shifting. The bike will still wheelie with my 240lb suited ass on it in 2nd, though I have to try. I'm guessing a light rider would have trouble keeping the front wheel down most of the way through 2nd on the track, and you shift ino 3rd going 7mph faster than stock. Also makes 1st gear a little easier to control, though you can still wheelie at will, even with stock exhaust.
Correcting mpg for the 18t is easy, just add 2mph. If you're between 25-40mpg that's going to be a pretty close correction.
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Concourse14- Corbin Seat, Candy Apple Red Paint, Area P Slip-On
RIP+ZX-14- Brock's Gen3, Heli Risers, Corbin Bags, Corbin Seat and Oval Backrest (Burgandy Snakeskin and black alligator), Muzzys Frame Sliders, flies out, 18t front sprocket, PC3, Puig Double Bubble, Pirelli Diablo Strada's
KX450F - kickstand
>>> MySpace --CLICK-- <<<
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