BlueLIGHTning
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posted October 19, 2006 10:19 AM
Semi-synthetic oil and clutches??
Just stored the bike for the winter and did final oil change. Had to go to a few different shops to find full synthetic oil seems everyone was out of the stuff. Finally found some yet the mechanic told me not to use full synthetic because of premature clutch failure. I have been told this by at least 4 or 5 mechanics at different bike shops. They have been telling me this for years now too. Anyone here know why they keep telling me this??
  
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Bently
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posted October 19, 2006 11:11 AM
You will have no problem running full synthetic, I have used Mobil1 5-30 in my last 5 bikes with very good results. Have it in my 14 have 4700 miles and 88 runs at the track. Origanal clutch. Some mechanics are just scared to change there ways.The head mechanic at the shop work at part time recommends mobil1
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blue max
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posted October 19, 2006 11:31 AM
i put 15/40 motorcraft in mine, it was free
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D
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posted October 19, 2006 11:36 AM
I've used Motul 5100 in 5 bikes and over 100k miles with zero problems.
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flatoutbu
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posted October 19, 2006 12:21 PM
Use what you like...everybody has different opions about oil.
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blitzkrieg
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posted October 19, 2006 04:43 PM
I've run regular old Mobil1 in my motorcycles for as long as I can remember and I've never had a problem (including no clutch slippage).
If somebody wants to pay twice as much for a motorcycle "specific" oil, more power to them but I think it's flushing money down the toilet.
A tidbit on motorcycle "specific" oils - they are just the same as car oils except they have different blends of minerals like zinc and phosphorus to make them less "slick".
It's always eluded me how a slightly different blend of minerals can justify twice the price of car oil.  Maybe they've got a cash cow?...
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Bently
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posted October 19, 2006 04:56 PM
Blitzkreig, I agree with you 100%
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tonytooth
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posted October 19, 2006 05:22 PM
 Edited By: tonytooth on 19 Oct 2006 18:28
Synthetic oil will not cause a clutch to slip or wear out prematurely. This is an urban legend. If your clutch is slipping, it's a clutch issue not an oil issue.
BTW, I use Shell Rotella full synthetic in all my vehicles including my 14.
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smokinZX14
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posted October 19, 2006 05:55 PM
quote:
Synthetic oil will not cause a clutch to slip or wear out prematurely. This is an urban legend. If your clutch is slipping, it's a clutch issue not an oil issue.
BTW, I use Shell Rotella full synthetic in all my vehicles including my 14.
Tony doesn't use Shell Rotella full synthetic, he just tells you that so you will be slower than him... ...He uses top secret Fish Oil and that's why his bike makes 201 HP .... You can buy it at www.southAficanspremwhaleoil@Blowme.com....Beware it smells funny , kind of like old socks...lol....Just joking ...lol
I have been using mx4t mobil one but it cost to much so i'm switching back to Mobil one car oil 5w30.........Smokin
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BlueLIGHTning
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posted October 19, 2006 06:06 PM
Well I guess I will just keep doing what I have always done regular oil changes which is the best insurance. Still drive my old '89 Dodge truck, don't know the mileage cause i lost track of how many times its gone back to Zero after 99,999 miles, yet motor has never been opened and tranny has never been touch. Just service the tranny yearly and 3000 mile oil changes. Yet countless ppl i know blowing up trannies on 3 yr old vehicles or on there 3rd tranny just because they only think about service when it blows up. Thanks for the help.
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tonytooth
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posted October 19, 2006 08:12 PM
Why are you givin away my secrets Smokin? (btw, it's 202.6 hp to be exact  )
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Y2KZX12R
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posted October 20, 2006 07:24 AM
Just stay away from any engine oild with an SJ or newer rating becasue they have very little of the additives that the cams like and the federal gov. (EPA) doesnt.
Avoid any oils or additives with molybdenum, it WILL ruin your frictions and make your clutch slip.
Change the oild and run the engine for at least 15 min. before you store it for the winter so you neutralize any acid buildup.
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smokinZX14
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posted October 20, 2006 03:14 PM
quote:
Why are you givin away my secrets Smokin? (btw, it's 202.6 hp to be exact )
Sorry 202.6 .......lol....... 
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INTIMIDA2OR
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posted October 20, 2006 07:29 PM
As long as your oil don't say "energy saving formula " or "friction modifiers" or some stuff like that then you should be fine because it is those additives that cause wet clutch problems.
Zinc is the key ingredient that motorcycle engines need to survive, and motorcycle specific is getting to be only oil out there that has zinc in it .
Car oil long ago used to have high Zinc content and was safe for motorcycle engines , but that stuff kills Catalytic converters so that is why Zinc is gone from Auto oils.
Diesel oil is rich in Zinc but even those are going the energy conservative route anymore.
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Y2KZX12R
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posted October 21, 2006 04:22 AM
Yep your right on the zink. But its not just zink, there removing other stuff per EPA also like phosphorous for the same reasons.
Additive packages in oil changes all the time. Just becasue you had good luck with brand X oil 5 years ago doesnt mean that its the same oil your getting now.
I wouldnt run any "automotive" oils at all personally, as of 2003 they are stripped of all the additives that the cam lobes like becasue of the cat coating issues per EPA.
Spectro or BMW synthetic bike oils are all I ever use.
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dubious
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posted October 21, 2006 04:39 AM
Motorcycle specific oils also have anti foam additives.
the gearboxes tend to stir the oil up and create foam, the foam cavitates the oil pump, losing oil pressure to the top end of the motor.
Motorcycle specific oils also have less or no moly, which can create clutch slippage....
Just my 2cents.... but what do i know about oil.
I just refine it for a living!
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halvefast
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posted October 21, 2006 04:41 AM
Well said!
Stick with bike specifc oils, and you will have no problems.
Any kind of synthetic is better, be it semi or full, especially with the heat our bikes put out.
The best way it was explained to me is: If you are cooking at a high heat,
cooking with butter the butter (mineral oil) will burn and turn to carbon.
Now cook at the same heat with olive oil (any synthetic) and it will be a tastey treat.
It's just cheap insurance.
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Bently
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posted October 21, 2006 05:01 AM
Still no need for motorcycle specific Oil. I ran mobil 1 car oil In my SV for 12000 miles then tore the motor down to change cams and it looked like new inside. This debate will never die. But Like I say I have 4700 miles and 88 passes at the track, some back to back and my clutch is as good as new.
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tonytooth
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posted October 21, 2006 06:00 AM
You guys are all crazy. Stay away from car and motorcycle specific oils and run only diesel motor oil otherwise your engines will grenade once they hit 10k miles. Shell Rotella full synthetic 5w-40 is the only you should be putting in your bike
In all seriousness, I personally believe any oil is fine. I stay away from oils that have friction modifiers but that's just me. I have no evidence that these are even harmful.
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Bently
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posted October 21, 2006 06:40 AM
I was thinking of going with Virgin olive oil next time!
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tonytooth
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posted October 21, 2006 06:46 AM
Make sure it's "extra" virgin olive oil. Regular virgin olive oil is born again so it's not truely virgin.
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CrotchRocket
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posted October 21, 2006 07:10 AM
Hey Tony not for nuttin, but the rainbow colors of the bikes in your signature is 
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tonytooth
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posted October 21, 2006 01:58 PM
Edited By: tonytooth on 21 Oct 2006 15:00
quote:
Hey Tony not for nuttin, but the rainbow colors of the bikes in your signature is
Yeh it's a little flashy, I may have to get rid of that. A family friend gave me that pic so I told them I'd use it. There its been used.
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Bently
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posted October 21, 2006 02:40 PM
Makes looking at your post eaiser, I was starting to get a headach. LOL
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tonytooth
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posted October 21, 2006 04:39 PM
Edited By: tonytooth on 21 Oct 2006 17:39
I agree it did get obnoxious after a little while. I'll save it for special occasions.
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