blue max
Expert Class
Posts: 214
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posted June 26, 2006 06:53 AM
need help launching my 14
they tell me to slip the clutch out, well it is hard to maintain 4000 rpm at the lite so 5500 rpm worked better for me.i am afriad of smoking the clutch. i ease it out, but the bike still seems to go out a ways and then boggs down when the clutch is fully released. when slipping it out do you mash the throttle the same time you ease the clutch out? never rode a bike like this before,, had a vmax that was as fast as my 14 was in the 1/4 10.70 133mph 60' was @2.0 can't go back until i get this figured out
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Mano 2
Expert Class
Posts: 360
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posted June 26, 2006 07:12 AM
I agree
I will not abuse my clutch like that.
There has to be a better way.
If I have to, I plan to get a pipe, PC and remove the butterflies unless we can map around that later.
I am hoping I can manage a decent launch if I can eliminate the bogging, clutch engaged, what do you think?
I would like to get int the 9's.
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blue max
Expert Class
Posts: 214
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posted June 26, 2006 07:27 AM
it was completely stock, now i have lowered it and no flies. if i have to slip the clutch tht is what i will do , they have more of them at the store!!!
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Mano 2
Expert Class
Posts: 360
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posted June 26, 2006 07:50 AM
Thanks.
I still hope there is a way.
Or I guess I'm screwed. I just don't want to go there.
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iflyphi
Zone Head
Posts: 542
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posted June 26, 2006 08:07 AM
I made 20 passes in one day, and the clutch is fine. What I did is set the rpm at about 5k then as soon as the bike starts to move with the clutch out, STOP, don't let out anymore clutch, just open the throttle all the way. You really have to slip it to launch it well. Ask Brock. He's done some 50+ passes then taken out the clutch, and its fine. I've done 3 passes back to back without stopping to cool the bike, just picked up the time ticket and rode right back up to the starting line. No problem with the clutch. I slip the hell out of it, but apparantly not enough. Best 60' time is 1.70, best ET is 10.27, and I'm 200lbs suited.
The "new" school of launcing a ZX14 is this; Launch at no more than 2000 rpm, just as soon as the bike moves with just the clutch lever, STOP moving the clutch lever the use just throttle to move the bike forward. Be patient. Find the link the Brock's Diary's part 2 and watch how "shine" launches the ZX14. He' s at a little higher rpm than 2000, but if you watch the video enough, you'll here and see how he launches, then practice that. It's realy a very smooth launch, and doesn't look quick, but he's getting 1.6's or better 60' times, and ran a 9.07 best.
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Flatoutbu
Pro
Posts: 1054
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posted June 26, 2006 08:08 AM
I have tried everything from the 2000RPM launch to the 10,000 RPM launch, the only thing i can tell you is do whatever feels comfortable to you. It's a balancing act to let the clutch out and smash the gas at the same time. It may look stupid but try doing it just sitting on the bike not running. Lean as far foward as you can and practice the clutch /gas movement. A 2.0 sixty foot sucks anyway you put it so you are coming out of the hole very soft. A good pass is decided in the first 330 foot. On a good pass you should see anywhere from a 1.70 sixty to a 1.55. Stretching it out will help alot if your worried about clutch abuse and rider weight/skill plays alot in the ulta fast times you see these bikes laying down.
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06 Blue 14
9.008 at 153mph @ 195 suited
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blue max
Expert Class
Posts: 214
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posted June 26, 2006 08:26 AM
sounds great ! what is brock's website?
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FasterThanStink
Pro
Posts: 1218
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posted June 26, 2006 08:34 AM
http://www.dragbike.com/dbnews/anmviewer.asp?a=2196&z=2
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Speed has never killed anyone,
suddenly becoming stationary...
That's what gets you.
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blue max
Expert Class
Posts: 214
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posted June 26, 2006 09:53 AM
really interesting, i didn't see where you could buy the big balls
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serius blk
Zone Head
Posts: 543
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posted June 26, 2006 10:16 AM
I was trying that 2000 rpm launch and I couldnt figure it out. It seems you move faster starting at 4000 and slipping the clutch. If that were the case you could idle the bike up to alittle more than 1000 and just turn the throttle. I tried that to. The bike seems to take off slower that way. True it doesnt come off the ground but it seems slower.
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BobC
Pro
Posts: 1736
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posted June 26, 2006 12:12 PM
It's all about the max amount of power you can put through the rear wheel without either looping it or spinning up. (Talking about road bikes here, by the way). You have to have these rev's to get the power required, hence launching at 4 or 5 thousand rpm and slipping the clutch. Get on the gas and don't bog it down. Practice and then practice some more.
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Candy Thunder Blue 2006 ZZR1400
Stock wheelbase
Max: 205.4 mph in 1.25 miles
2012 ZZR1400 in Golden Blazed Green
Brock CT Full System. etc
Max: 203.1 in 1 mile (so far)
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blue max
Expert Class
Posts: 214
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posted June 26, 2006 12:15 PM
thanks, going to beat the shit out of it tomorrow night!
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted June 26, 2006 02:08 PM
Well nowadays I pin th throtle and dump the clutch around 2500 rpm, sometimes I'm lucky sometimes it spins the tire inn 1st, 2nd and 3rd!
Its not stock. 
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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Mano 2
Expert Class
Posts: 360
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posted June 26, 2006 02:16 PM
Devious. How much not stock is it?
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted June 26, 2006 02:31 PM
Brocks smeg and map, flies out, 16 tooth, lowered.
It is fuckin NAAAAASTY.
Like riding KING KONG!
Really, it is STUPID.
Never thought I would be this impressed!
It feels about 50% stronger on the bottom, and about 30% stronger on top.
Stock to this is like a GSXR750 vs GSXR1000.
His map woke it the fuck right up.
Drivability probs though. Wait leave your flies in, a fix is being developed.
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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serius blk
Zone Head
Posts: 543
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posted June 26, 2006 04:27 PM
Dubious so you really enjoy it with the 16 tooth. Im thinking about doing it.
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted June 26, 2006 06:42 PM
it is definatley torquier, and more responsive, but with all the other mods, and real drag track traction, a handful to launch...
I'm thinking of going back to 17 now, as with such a powerful pull and monster hit around 6-7000 rpm it has a tendency to overpower the tire in 1, 2nd and sometimes 3rd gear!
With less mechanical advantage the tire might stay hooked up instead of spinning...
See, alot of people misundersatand and misinterpret dyno graphs.
Hp and torque are good indicators, but a bike which revs quicker through the rpm , making the same #'s will be much more exciting to ride, and quicker at the track.
I will use motocross example... used to be my cup of T.
I had a 96 yz 250, GYRT .. genuine yamaha racing team, are a subsidiary of yamaha , and sell racing parts and engine kits for racers.
I installed a long rod kit in the bike, and put it on the dyno.
It only made 4 more HP on the dyno... not bad but not great.. bikes weigh 225 lbs and stock is about 40 hp , so the kit engine showed 44 hp.
On the track that sucker felt like at least 50 HP, it reved much QUICKER/harder and pulled a LOAD WAY BETTER.
The time it took to make the hp or get to peak rpm was substantially quicker.
At first I though it was just me but, then MXA magazine did their test bike and they noticed the same thing I did.
This is what i am noticing with the zx14.
It feels way stronger than the indicated gains, and revs way quicker than it used to!
I mean play riding... drop the hammer at 2500 rpm and peg it, by about 3800 rpm the rear tire breaks loose, I just let it spin, grab 2nd the tire is still spinning, grab 3rd the tire is still spinning grab 4th and the tire begins to hook up...!
These are under less than steller traction conditions... smooth worn dry pavement, but nonetheless ... CRAZY STUFF!
For drag racing... i see an extended swingarm in my future, as the bike is beginning to be a real handful with stock wheelbase!
sorry got off track... LOL I can't help myself ... I am sooo pleased with the performance for a bike I never had to go internal ! AMAZES ME!
I usually pretty pessimistic,
I have given to the bike and the people developing it alot of well deserved praise!
Any way, I'm thinking stock wheelbase, uncorked, mapped correctly, the bike might be better off with a 17 now... it just does not need the torque advantage... it needs traction LOL!
Wheelspin does not win anything but more $$$ for tire manufacturers...
Sure is fun though.
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted June 26, 2006 11:01 PM
Run "Zero" throttle play for racing/practice. Less cable move, the better. Keep moving the forks lock to lock (running at idle) until the cable begins to lift the RPM. Back off a touch. Here comes my... "You'll die doing it my way if you listen to me, stupid" disclaimer. Run the cables back to stock freeplay after racing/practice. One bounce over a bump (street riding) and your wrist will surge you to danger. You have no leeway with this type (zero freeplay) bike. It can hurt the less skilled worse than the better skilled. Learn to be better! Now chase where the clutch begins to grab. That's the grab part where it leaves the hand grip, and goes out. You can feel this hit area when bike slows down from 20mph. Feel intimidated? Run a higher coast speed then, because this is your "standing still" way of leaving from a dead stop. You will do all your practice in first gear. Coast to about 20mph. Pull the clutch in, and let the bike slow down. Keep quickly pulling in-and-out of the clutch lever (feeling) that narrow range where the clutch catches and releases. Study that feel. Once you can let the clutch lever out to the point to where the plates start to pressure on each other, that's where you pull it in just a touch. Right there is about your "beginning feed" area.
Do not look at the Tach at any time doing your take-offs. It's all about FEEL. I can't teach you that. That is the art of cutting a light. You slowly burn the clutch into each plate until it locks up. Feed more RPM as you lock up more clutch plates. Your feet will be on the pegs, you'll already be squatted for the immediate take off, so the only thing next is to "THINK" you are standing still (knowing your feet are on the pegs, and moving.)
Never look at the Tach. This is one practice after the next, getting the feel of the bike. The feel of, "clutch feed." What (rpm) do you feel comfortable at?... Can you handle a low rev, or a higher RPM leave? Until you figure out how the clutch will act at a slight speed rather than trying this all from a dead stop, your initial rolling practice will make you understand how to leave from a dead stop. You coast down to 5 mph and see if you got it figured out. Then try it at a dead stop. Listen to the engine sound that you were comfortable leaving at. Now look at the tack, note your sweet spot, lock it in on the dash panel if you feel you need that light. You are better off listening, and feeling the bike at the line. The staging dash light is for (experience) down the road, or unless you can multi task at the Christmas tree now?
You've been warned! Figure it out. Bring "Confidence" to the practice.
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E-tard
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blue max
Expert Class
Posts: 214
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posted June 27, 2006 05:05 AM
thanks! alot of that i am already doing, it is after the bike is rolling out i would let the clutch fully release, the bike would bog way down, @3000 i'm guessing, i would be wide open and then it would wait on the flies to open then come to life, start raising the front @ 7500. i think i would let up a little, chicken shit, then power shift the rest of the way. since then i have lowered the back with my own links that i made, it is 15" from the ground to the reflector below the plate, the front lowered but not tied down, flies removed, rear shock is set right in the middle, you know the spanner nuts,the shocks are where they came when i got it
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted June 27, 2006 07:14 AM
Go back to the 9.9 second video of Keith leaving the line. Listen to the time count from 21 thru 23 seconds. Listen to the bike bog as Keith pulls the clutch in a few times to stop the bog/wheel coming up. Watch the front wheel go up and down. You have two things happening right there. Clean them up. You bog, you need more practice. You won't find it in the RPM range, but in how you start collecting cluch plates.
If you figured out the rolling start, then like I said, I can't teach "FEEL"... that's something you need to figure out. If Shine didn't lift on those two "wa-wa" clutch pulls, his time would of dropped more...obviously.
This has nothing to do with the sub's linear movements. You fed the cluch too soon, and it bogged. It's in the practice where you blend the engine, clutch rotation, and rear wheel as one single clutch release. No bog. No clutch pulling in to compensate a bad leave. If it's that hard for the runt to leave on this bike, then just think what you're goijng through?
Try this. Let the bike Idle. Slowly release the clutch so you don't stall the bike, nor add more throttle to compensate. That is where you start to 'feel' what the clutch wants.
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E-tard
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blue max
Expert Class
Posts: 214
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posted June 28, 2006 05:09 AM
the clutch , throtte etc. worked great but know where my problem is,, is trying to pull myself up to get my feet on the pegs to shift
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted June 28, 2006 07:14 AM
Don't think about your feet. Look forward, watch the Tach, and "retract" the feet without doing anything. Think about shifting, eyes down the track, everything but your feet. You have plenty of time to put your feet back on the pegs. Get back to being "smooth" with the throttle/clutch.
If you improved your launches, keep practicing.
If you want to concentrate at the 60 mark, then leave the feet down as your rudders. After that, you're going to need to shift soon, so.....
Try this for practice. Use every stop sign, every stop light as your balance practice. You slowly come to a stop, and you keep your feed up. Move your body (correct the English) where you can "hang" with a dead moving bike, and your feet are up.
When the light turns green, or you're safe to move from the stop sign, you lift your feet up before the bike moves when you're about to take off. Feet up, (dead moving bike) then move in one smooth transition.
.Now, do your launch. Don't think about moving your feet. You're thinking too hard. Let it come on it's own. Bring "Confidence" to the practice.
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E-tard
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