s1stl
Novice Class
Posts: 39
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posted May 16, 2006 02:58 PM
 Edited By: s1stl on 16 May 2006 16:32
Shock preload adjustment.
If there was ever a bike that needed a remote preload adjuster, this is it. The only way I can see to get at the collar easily, is to take the entire right footpeg assembly off. Anyone adjusted their's yet? Easy method?
Steve
  
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted May 17, 2006 06:39 AM
What should the sag be anyway?
Never bothered before on my street bikes.
4" sag on dirtbikes.... LOL
Played with compression and rebound a bit to get rid of some of the throttle / brake related wallow.
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natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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speedgene
Zone Head
Posts: 996
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posted May 17, 2006 09:03 AM
Edited By: speedgene on 17 May 2006 10:04
That's about the only entry unless you pull the rear fender up and away, s1stl.
Dubious, sag is your personal number. Every rider will create a different number. Some net article will tell you to extend the rear and let it drop to take your readings. I believe they also tell you to be fully dressed as if you were going out on a ride. Well, if you took all your gear and put it on the bike, the weight wouldn't over ride the spring tension. I use a full tank, mount the bike on my street clothes, and have someone take a reading.
I've come up with the same sag numbers jackassing the rear end up and down and just let it settle statically. I get the same numbers either way... fully suited up, or in a t-shirt, sweats, and flip flops.
Have someone extend the rear/front end, then take a consistent measurement using the same A-to-B points on the swingarm and body panel line for example. That's one measurement. Sit on the bike and take your second measurement. Add the extended and squat numbers together. Divide that number in half. That is your "sag" measurement. Either lower or raise the shock collar until the swing and panel measure your "split" number. Bark the locking collars down, and you are done with sag.
Tag team the initial sag numbers on the front end as well. The sag on the front end was incrementally so close, I left it alone. Rear sag lowered the bike (a touch) when I was finished.
Now that sag is done... (and it does help smooth the ride)... you can either lower all the comp, and rebound setting, and work your way up until the bike feels plush, or crank it up more/less for sport (harder) riding.
Keep notes on paper so you don't repeat the same comp/rebound settings, or maybe you'll find out that going back to the same settings seem to square the bike away? Ride over bumps (less distractions) with a dead engine. Listening to the suspension... so you can hear the front bottom out , or feel the rear pogo. It's all hit an miss with production shocks. Installing quality suspension parts are like night and day.
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted May 17, 2006 12:23 PM
SG, buddy, thanks ... I've done this probably close to a hundred times for Mx, just wondering what the suggested sag "measurement" should be for our zx14!
Mx bikes all range between 95 mm and 105 mm loaded sag, and 15-25 mm static sag., if static is out of spec once you acheive proper loaded sag, then new spring s needed as the steering geometry is out and it causes frt susp. issues as well as handling problems.
Does kawasaki give the suggested measurements in the owners manual for the zx6 and 10? Or do you need some other literature?
Every bike has ideal sag which the manufacturer will know, in order to keep the steering angle within spec. Where does kawasaki keep this info?
What amount of preload sag does Kawi usually suggest for the other bikes?
Generally each manufacturer stays pretty consistant across the production board.
For example, I want to increase preload, reducing loaded sag, ( maybe high speed compression too!) as I want more frt bias, and less squat under accel.
I want to decrease the bottoming on frt end without tightening up initial plushness, so I will probably add some oil to the forks, rather than compression, and rebound seems good , maybe little fast, so I will probably increase rebound a click or 2.
Some advice for all as well is to keep the changes to 1 ata time so you can feel which change did what , and make more moves in the proper direction.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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dubious
Needs a life
Needs more time to ride!
Posts: 8442
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posted May 17, 2006 12:27 PM
Oh yeah, and if it feels like the front wheel is tring to push out, after initial loading into corners increase the rebound damping , it will slow the extension of the fork, and help keep the font hooked to the pavement, rather than bouncing out from under you.
Flat gound it may not be noticable, but over rough corners it will be more noticable.
____________
natural selection.....
destiny will overcome intervention.
Some are not worthy of the effort.
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