zx61114
Expert Class
Posts: 327
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posted April 06, 2006 08:10 PM
Maintenance Schedule
My VFR I've always thought was as close to a gas and go bike as one can get. I'm not so sure Kawasaki is any different anymore but here's the schedule I plan on using. I'll back up or give a resonable facts to what I believe.
Oil/Filter: Currently I ride 8,000 miles between oil changes. I plan on switching over to Amsoil after 7,000 miles. I've been told Kawasaki likes 6000 mile changes and I will respect that, please advise if I'm off base on this one.
Fork Oil: This is easy every 8-10,000 miles. Problem with fork oil is that it fails so gradually that the rider thinks things are fine. The truth is ignoring your forks WILL cost you feet in braking and handling. I learned this the hard way please trust me on this one.
Spark Plugs: The VFR runs 32K and I suspect same will hold true with the ZX. Anytime the coils are on the plug as a sealed unit, well the plugs should last longer. Unsure here.
Air Filter: I like the K&N Filter, maybe because I'm cheap and have all the equipment to clean the filter. Cleaning is subjective I try to clean every 16-24K.
Rear Shock: Again subjective but after say 32,000 miles your on borrowed time. Keep in mind this schmuck weights 155 lbs and live in Florida (not so many pot holes). 24,000 miles maybe the end of the line for some riders.
Battery: On Average I go 3-5 years between batteries. The 02 VFR has charging issues and even though I ride pretty much every day, it only lasted 3 years. Having said that we have a Volt meter God Bless Kawasaki for this addition.
Clutch Fluid: I will change it out at the first oil change. Breaking in the clutch the rubber will discolor the container (I told you all before I'm a bit anal), I like the clear golden look thank you. Then I normally change and bleed the clutch while I'm changing the fork oil every 8K.
Brake pads/Fluid: Because I change the fork oil every 8K I'll update everyone on how the brake pads are holding up. I now go 24K on my front pads and 30K on the rear pads, but not having linked braking things will change and I suspect, and I may be traveling faster on the ZX (just a guess). Bleeding the brakes every 8K works good for me. For those who don't ride as much as this Schmuck, keep in mind that H20 has a way of making into your DOT4 continer, it does not hurt to flush the system once a year.
Valves: Finally a bike that rolls 24K between valve checks. My thinking here is simple, I'll only check the valves if any of the following is true. 1 I'm burning oil. 2. I'm using more fuel than normal. 3. I hear the valves when I load up the engine. 4 MOST IMPORTAINT If Performance is suffering (listen to the little voice in your head it's a pretty good judge if problems are present). If I'm not breaking any of the 4 rules above I'm leaving everything alone. I mean why fix something that's not broke. I'll check things out at 48K just to make sure thing are fine. Sorry if you all heard this before.
Chain: Clean and Lube often and your chain will last a long time. 2 main rules, First Always error on loose side when adjusting your chain. 2nd always change the front sprocket with new chain. Outside of that choice of lube is fine, I like dupont silicone blue bottle from Lowes but PJ1, Chain Wax all work as well. My Method is fairly simple but a bit of work. I clean the chain every 2-3 months with Mineral Sprits then wipe clean with gas station like napkin. Objective: lube the O-Rings, X-Rings or W-Rings not the actual chain itself. Adding lube to a dirty chain tends to open the Rings up to the elements wearing the life of the chain. After lubing you must remove the overspray, with napkin. I know it's a pain in the ass but this works for me.
Average chain life? NEW lasts 24-28000 miles
Aftermarket Chains last between 8-15,000 miles
Note I bought an RK W-ring chain and after 12,000 miles this puppy is really doing well. I'm not sure if it's stronger or the rings really lube better but I have not adjusted it in almost 2000 miles and normally after 10K signs of wear start showing. So far this chain really looks good to excellent. Maybe paying an extra 70 dollars is worth it? Time will tell.
Well that's about it, I would appreciate it if you all will look these over and smooth them up a bit if your thinking is different. I know Kawasaki has come a long way since my 1991 ZX-11 and 1993 ZX-6, but a second opinion(s) never hurt.
Robert
  
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Nixter
Expert Class
Posts: 152
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posted April 06, 2006 08:32 PM
8k between oil changes?? After break in I usually change every 2k miles, especially on a high reving inline 4.
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2012 ZX14R - Black
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rudebwoy
Expert Class
Posts: 136
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posted April 06, 2006 11:05 PM
oil change every 2k miles??? Dont you use synthetic??
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'05 Triumph Speed Triple
'06 Triumph Daytona 675
'07 Kawasaki ZX-14
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zx61114
Expert Class
Posts: 327
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posted April 07, 2006 12:27 AM
I should have been more specific on the first oil change at 600-1000 miles, than 6000 miles =7000 miles, before synthetic. My bad. Nixter even with traditional dino oils, at 2K I believe your waisting oil. Here is another little factoid only this nerd would have tried to figure out. In Daytona, I put the ZX14 in 6th gear at 50 MPH and the RPM's were like 1850 to 2000. All things considered this is not going to be a high reving engine, unless you live near a track or a very traffic free hwy.
Just for the record I ride between 1200-2500 miles a month avg 1600 miles a month, I'm not changing oil every 2 weeks to month, my ZX-14 is going the specified miles.
Rob
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zx61114
Expert Class
Posts: 327
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posted April 10, 2006 12:07 PM
Just a quick follow-up, Easy wanted to see something other than a "Where's my Bike" mail and I wanted to ask a question Maintenance related. Has anyone used synthetic Fork oil? I have not but wonder if there is an advantage. Thanks in advance
Rob
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FasterThanStink
Pro
Posts: 1218
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posted April 10, 2006 12:51 PM
quote:
Just a quick follow-up, Easy wanted to see something other than a "Where's my Bike" mail and I wanted to ask a question Maintenance related. Has anyone used synthetic Fork oil? I have not but wonder if there is an advantage. Thanks in advance
Rob
I use Redline synthetic fork oil. Probably not much of an advantage but they make it in every viscosity you can possibly need. Even 0 weight for streering dapeners. It maintains it's rated viscosity over a much wider temperature range.
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Speed has never killed anyone,
suddenly becoming stationary...
That's what gets you.
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ZREXER
Expert Class
Posts: 492
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posted April 10, 2006 01:48 PM
I have found that I have not had to do any maintenance to my '14 yet. Absolutely nothing has gone out of adjustment yet...........................most problem free bike I have ever owned.............in fact the tires have zero wear and it's not even dusty yet.......
Oh yeah, I don't have one yet!
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VPN
Zone Head
Posts: 718
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posted April 11, 2006 04:14 AM
My GTR-1400 is better: the chain does not need lubrication at all
yeah, I have not even ordered one yet, there is no bike...
My Bandit gets a new bolt-on titanium pipe from Laser
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rudebwoy
Expert Class
Posts: 136
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posted April 11, 2006 11:37 AM
That GTR is gonna be shaft driven though right? 
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'05 Triumph Speed Triple
'06 Triumph Daytona 675
'07 Kawasaki ZX-14
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Zone Head
Posts: 718
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posted April 11, 2006 12:39 PM
That's why it does not need chain lubrication
and
my Bandit has CLS-200 auto-oiler
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