salsa1
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posted January 27, 2006 11:09 AM
 Edited By: salsa1 on 27 Jan 2006 11:14
Clutch ... OEM or Barnett?
http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/cat--Barnett-Clutches-Kawasaki-ZX9R-ZX10R--Barnett+ZX9QQS10+Clutches.html
Remember stock OEM clutch is best; but will ask anyways If anyone has experience with this product as I don't . Barnett "advertises" a better clutch (Kevlar) and steel drive plates..
I will use for dragracing the ZX-10R and street use.
Thanks in advance!.
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TedG
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posted January 27, 2006 11:32 AM
I have heard nonting but good things about the clutch, and have found it to be excellent myself.
IMHO Don't fix what ain't broke.
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Ted
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MadMike
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posted January 27, 2006 11:32 AM
I would not use them unless they have changed the fibers, they were aluminum plates with the fiber material bonded on them and they just ate themselves up after 3 passes on my 12....
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salsa1
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posted January 27, 2006 11:43 AM
My clutch is presently slipping ; not much doubt I need to replace something in there be it steel plates or fibers . Leaning on buying them all to be sure. Don't really know as Inever have changed the clutch yet.
I recall OEM being best as per older posts but time has passed and maybe their kevlar product which is advertisesd for racing has improved ; has anyone purchased recently or can shed some light with facts be appreciated...
Thanks guys!
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TedG
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posted January 27, 2006 11:53 AM
OK it is broke, oops. It would probably be safest to replace it with an OEM clutch unless you want to become the guinea pig to do the testing. The problem I see is if you do opt for the Barnett and it explodes, that will probably toast the entire engine. Where with the OEM you have something with at least some empirical data behind it.
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Ted
2000 Green ZX12 sold
The fast color!!
Green 2005 ZX10R
2009 Concours Black ABS
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MadMike
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posted January 27, 2006 01:32 PM
My statement is 100% FACT
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TedG
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posted January 27, 2006 01:43 PM
Well from what MadMike says, it sounds like Barnetts have not changed much over the years. They sucked big time.
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Ted
2000 Green ZX12 sold
The fast color!!
Green 2005 ZX10R
2009 Concours Black ABS
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speedgene
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posted January 27, 2006 02:30 PM
Even if they are reusable, and are still within serviceable limit, I always change both steels, and frictions as a set. Same approach when changing tires... Always.
If you want to be competitive, you can't $kimp on parts. Commit, or get bit.
MadMike's 100% testimonial is letting you know the aftermarket jobber(s) needs to do it better.
I cannot stress enough to $tick with OEM... Then go get 'em!
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Turbo810
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posted January 27, 2006 04:52 PM
I have also had major problems with Barnett. They didn't even last 100 miles. And that was not being hard on them at all. IMO they are junk. OEM is the only way to go.
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salsa1
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posted January 27, 2006 05:36 PM
Fair enough; was probing to see if there was new evidence like a recent buyer from them that could attest they have improved... someone must be buying them?? .. or they must have a load of them just to get rid of them to whoever...no big deal.. thats why I ask ...
Just looking hard at my options...I plan to give my new clutch plenty of abuse at the track this summer..
OEM it will be then ; a wise man is always open to new ideas; ... that does not mean he should buy into every idea...LOL..
Thanks!
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bovinespongiformencephalo
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posted January 27, 2006 07:45 PM
quote:
Even if they are reusable, and are still within serviceable limit, I always change both steels, and frictions as a set. Same approach when changing tires... Always.
If you want to be competitive, you can't $kimp on parts. Commit, or get bit.
MadMike's 100% testimonial is letting you know the aftermarket jobber(s) needs to do it better.
I cannot stress enough to $tick with OEM... Then go get 'em!
Why change tires as a set?
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speedgene
Zone Head
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posted January 27, 2006 10:33 PM
Bov,
Both tires roll the same day you buy the bike. Even though (you think) the front tire wears less than the rear, it is still worn. If you were pushing the rear, no doubt the front was working just as hard to keep the rear end from kicking out, and/or plow the front. There is your tire wear up at the front. Throw a fresh tire on the rear with a worn front, and guaranteed, you will push the front because the rear has a good bite (with heavy throttle), and now the front can't keep up. Be Careful!
There are 'steps' worn (mostly) at the center of the front wheel...especially street ridden tires. It looks like an escalator with all the steps inches apart. To check (face the disc to see) the wear pattern on (the top edge of) your front tire. You might see the cut rain grooves almost rubbed down near the center, and also sides of the tire.
You are constantly correcting the front end. This scrubs rubber material off the tire. Though you may not see the obvious (visual) 'gumballs' disintegrate on a soft racing tire, there is still the same wearing away of the street (harder compound) tire's integrity. Handling is compromised no doubt. You will feel going into a turn, how smooth the rear transitions with a new rear tire, but the front will feel square, wiggly, cause more bar input just to get the bike to lean over... you can tell something is off?
Most likely you've changed either front or rear (only) and could tell right away how different the bike feels? Now try riding the bike with a fresh set fore, and aft.
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Hells Dark Lord
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posted January 29, 2006 06:29 PM
OK did my first trackday on a very tight technical track this weekend with the ZX10....my question is clutch related....
1. Can you adjust a slipper clutch, I am refering to the point at where it slips, or is that at a fixed rate?
2. Has anyone had any issues with their clutch not working like a slipper?
I ran the shit out of my bike the past 2 days and never once did I feel the slipper clutch kick in, and all the time the ass end was skipping around. It about spit me into a high side one time. My ZX6RR had a terrific slipper clutch and I could feel when it worked, I have no expierenced this on my 10 yet. Not sure if its a differnt system, or set up, or if its just jacked up....any ideas????
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gunner
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posted January 29, 2006 09:29 PM
HDL............I think Kawasaki sells some kind of shim? to adjust that slipper deal.
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Hells Dark Lord
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posted January 30, 2006 08:25 PM
thanks gunner I will check into that.....on this tight track down here I REALLY need that to work right....
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gunner
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posted January 30, 2006 08:55 PM
I did look and yes they sell what they call a slipper clutch shim I think it was. They don't say much about what it does or how it changes the clutch. Hell it may tighten it up for all I know. I would check over at KawiForums and post a question to Advanced Kawasaki. They have their own forum there and that guy seems to cator to road racer types. He should be able to help out with a question like that I would think.
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Hells Dark Lord
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posted January 31, 2006 04:58 PM
thanks will check with them.....
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avdigigeek
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posted February 01, 2006 06:32 PM
Heres a great write up on how to do the clutch swap
http://zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12670&page=1&pp=10
enjoy
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kzz1
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posted February 01, 2006 07:58 PM
quote:
My statement is 100% FACT
Ditto!!!!!
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salsa1
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posted February 01, 2006 07:58 PM
Helpfull post avidgigeek. I will use on my next clutch change
Thanks!
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kzz1
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posted February 01, 2006 07:59 PM
quote:
I have also had major problems with Barnett. They didn't even last 100 miles. And that was not being hard on them at all. IMO they are junk. OEM is the only way to go.
ditto 
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Hells Dark Lord
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posted February 02, 2006 03:31 AM
http://zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12670&page=1&pp=10
Assist
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speedgene
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posted February 02, 2006 08:57 AM
One guy posting on that clutch fix url says to face the cut steels toward you. He's got most of it right. Just remember the trick to facing the cut sides is "toward the pressure plate." The photos show the clutch assembly has the pressure plate as the last piece to assemble. In this case, he's correct.
If you lost even one friction and the material is floating in oil?....drop the pan and get it all out... You're not done servicing your clutch just yet.
If you are using stock steels with the "freckles finish" (for racing), you might want to try bead blasting the steels. The other approach is to machine down the steels to a certain size, remove the 'chatter plate' by adding more steels until you are back within the factory stack. Finished steels are bead blasted.
Stock steels are a happy medium for performance, but are more designed to make shifting the transmission less brutal on the gears. Freckle face steels work smoother.
You might want to use the stiffer springs for the day's racing, then take them out later for riding. This way, you kill two birds. As you change the springs, you can inspect the day's damage to the whole clutch pack.
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