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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX10R ZONE.com > Thread: 636 Master Cylinder - ZX10 Conversion? NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
thonczarenko


Novice Class
Posts: 61
posted May 21, 2005 05:57 AM        
636 Master Cylinder - ZX10 Conversion?

Anybody do this yet? I want to see what parts are needed to do this. I figure the master cylinder, brake lines and???

I looked at the throttle cable and it is routed differently, but I wanted to make sure the clip on doesn't have any indents for the angle of the throttle.

Would purchasing the Brembo MC be cheaper or better? If so, which one is the right one?

Thanks!
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TedG


Moderator
Posts: 8222
posted May 21, 2005 07:50 PM        
I have a question. Why?
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kz2zx


Pro
Nobody in Particular
Posts: 1166
posted May 22, 2005 06:11 AM        
It's a radial, where the 10's is not.



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thonczarenko


Novice Class
Posts: 61
posted May 22, 2005 02:09 PM        
Exactly!
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rome


Parking Attendant
Posts: 10
posted May 22, 2005 06:39 PM        
What is a radial?
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TedG


Moderator
Posts: 8222
posted May 22, 2005 06:53 PM        
My 10 has radial brakes.
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frEEk


Administrator
ummm... yeah
Posts: 9660
posted May 22, 2005 06:55 PM        
radial master cylinder is the issue, not caliper mounts.
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TedG


Moderator
Posts: 8222
posted May 22, 2005 07:22 PM        
Radial master cylinder? That is a new one on me. What is better about it? Lighter? Some leverage advantage? It is displacing fluid, how can you get more advantage then direct displacement?
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redelk


Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
posted May 22, 2005 11:16 PM        
Here is one opinion on radial versus regular master cylinders:

http://motorcyclebloggers.com/tech-talk-articles/brakes-101/master-cylinders/
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redelk


Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
posted May 22, 2005 11:40 PM        
The proper size Brembo for the 10R is 19x18. Which happens to be the same size recommended for the 636/6RR. With the Brembo, you will need some sort of brake light switch because it does not come with one. K&S makes a hydraulic brake light switch that is intergrated into the banjo bolt. You can use this for either a Brembo front master cylinder or when you use a aftermarket rearset since most can not use the OEM brake switch.

That would be one of the advantages of using a 636/6RR set up. The switch is already intergrated in to the lever. I have the Vortex adjustable rearsets, but chose to just leave the wire unhooked.

I did just order a Brembo radial master cylinder and I will be using one on the front. Brembo does offer a swithch, but it is about $50 to $60. The K&S switch is under $20. I also order a set of Gafler Superbike lines. What makes them unique is that no banjo bolt is used at the caliper. The line screws directly into the caliper and have a slightly smaller bore (2.8 mm vs. 3 mm). It will be interesting to see if the really make that much difference. They do cost almost twice as much as normal braided lines.

The complete set up of the Brembo, brake switch, Gafler Superbike lines and Galler pads added up to $450. The average cost of the Brembo by itself is about $250. It does not come with a reservior either, so you'll have to use the OEM unit.


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thonczarenko


Novice Class
Posts: 61
posted May 23, 2005 05:22 AM        
Wow! Thanks for the info!
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frEEk


Administrator
ummm... yeah
Posts: 9660
posted May 23, 2005 10:07 AM        
keep us posted on the results fo the new brake lines. interested in how those work out.
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TedG


Moderator
Posts: 8222
posted May 23, 2005 06:47 PM        
Now I get it. For trick factor... cool.
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FP 10R


Expert Class
Fast Learner
Posts: 212
posted May 23, 2005 07:09 PM        
If you ride hard and do track days go for the Brembo, unfortunately the 636 conversion is not appreciably better than the stock 14mm unit. I have tested all the options and Red is right just go for the Brembo with an intergrated pressure switch in the banjo bolt.....problem solved.

I have also fitted Braking rotors and other pads, the feel of the brakes is different to stock but under hard use it remains consistent unlike the stock 14mm or 636 units that fade after several hard laps. The advantage of the 636 unit is it takes longer to lose it, has a lot to do with fluid temperature and the amount of fluid the Master can shift the 636 unit does have a better feel but also has different rotors to the 10 as well.
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redelk


Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
posted May 24, 2005 12:15 AM        
quote:
Now I get it. For trick factor... cool.


All of our team's race bikes are equiped with Brembos except the endurance bike, which could use one the most. The problem is that the team is currently underfunded and we have simply swapped the complete front brake systems from one of the sprint bikes. After riding these bikes, "Trick" factor pales in comparison to the realist performance improvement.

If you check previous threads on this and other 10R forums, you'll find many owners have been disappointed with the brake performance of the 10R. Many things have been tried like braided lines, different pads, different brake fluid and even removing the heat shilds from behind the pads. All of these modifications only had a marginal improvement, if any. It is not just the direction the leverage is placed or piston diameter. The Brembo unit takes the best aspects of performance braking and combines them into a single package.

I didn't take me all of last season athe the tracks of CMRA to realize that if one wanted consistent performance from their brakes, no matter how one rides, but in all conditions... it is done with a radial master cylinder. I also learned if one was going to get a radial master cylinder, Brembo is not "a" choice, but the only choice.

I can assure you that if it was just for poser points, I would spent my hard earned $500 on something else. I could have just as easily got a Power Commander or some other modification, but from a acceleration perspective, my Jardine slip on and BNC filter is plenty for me. Unlike the 12R, I believe the 10R does not "need" a Power Commander. Will the 10R benefit from a PCIII? Sure, but when it comes to "bang for the buck", especially when that $500 is going to be spent on one of the few mods I plan on doing ((for money and practicality reasons)... I'm going to spent it on something that will make a noticable difference. A BIG difference.

After riding a bike with a Brembo and having owned a 10R for over a year, I can't help but think the Brembo will make that BIG difference.
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wwwrxxx


Novice Class
Posts: 80
posted May 24, 2005 04:53 AM        
Here's my two bob.

I have fitted Dunlopad DPR942 pads. The brakes now work wonderfully. The lever isn't firm but the more you pull it the more it stops. I hear the front Pilot Power squeal a bit sometimes under brakes and I am only using my index finger to stop.

Give them a go. I am very impressed.

I'd like a Brembo master cylinder too but really don't need it.

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thonczarenko


Novice Class
Posts: 61
posted May 31, 2005 10:09 AM        
I couldn't find anything on the Dunlopad DPR942. Could you tell me where you purchased these?
Thanks!
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kz2zx


Pro
Nobody in Particular
Posts: 1166
posted May 31, 2005 04:43 PM        
Hint: Look for DP pads.


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thonczarenko


Novice Class
Posts: 61
posted June 01, 2005 08:22 AM        
My friend's shop is a dealer for them! They were right under my nose the whole time. I am goin to try them out ASAP.
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redelk


Moderator
Please... speak to the hand.
Posts: 3212
posted June 02, 2005 01:54 AM        
The parts arrived today. Leave for the track in a few hours and they will remain in the box until I return. ARG!
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thonczarenko


Novice Class
Posts: 61
posted June 02, 2005 08:54 AM        
Good luck with your track day! Let me know what you think when you get them installed! For a street application, of course.
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