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BIKELAND > FORUMS > ZX10R ZONE.com > Thread: throttle cable slack NEW TOPIC NEW POLL POST REPLY
kevy10


Expert Class
Posts: 101
posted May 09, 2004 07:45 AM        
throttle cable slack

i haven't seen anyone else post about this but my bike seems to have excessive throttle cable slack when accelerating. do you pull the rubber boot down to adjust this? i didnt really see any nut to loosen. its really a pain when going slow around a corner.

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zx10Roger


Expert Class
Posts: 114
posted May 09, 2004 07:54 AM        
No it runs down by the frame ,I had to tighten mine up too.
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runninhorn


Expert Class
Posts: 442
posted May 09, 2004 08:38 AM        
i too have noticed the same thing, i need to go adjust mine today......
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Rubber Pants


Zone Head
Posts: 798
posted May 09, 2004 08:40 AM        
Me too! You just pull the right fairing away from frame and there it is! But it seems to go loose again quick!?!?!?
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"Ya Gotta Have Big Ones!"

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D


Needs a job
Posts: 3365
posted May 09, 2004 10:40 AM        
Yes - I've adjusted mine at least 4 times (yep, former 12 owner here) and it seems to loosen to the same amount of play fairly quicly.

Dealer had no answer for me but I'm gonna bring it up again next week.

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kevy10


Expert Class
Posts: 101
posted May 09, 2004 03:53 PM        
right fairing, huh? okay i will try that. need to do something, it's very hard not to jerk it at slow speeds. thanks a lot.
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bovinespongiformencephalo


Pro
variant Kreutzfeldt-Jakob
Posts: 1060
posted May 10, 2004 05:46 AM        
I'm not gonna touch that.
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worm~hole


Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
posted May 10, 2004 07:41 AM        
quote:
I'm not gonna touch that.


me, to...but anyway....how difficult is it to remove the fairings?...diabolical like the 12R?...any caveats?
____________
“We sleep safe in our beds because rough men
stand ready in the night to visit violence on those
who would do us harm.”

-George Orwell

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bovinespongiformencephalo


Pro
variant Kreutzfeldt-Jakob
Posts: 1060
posted May 10, 2004 07:56 AM        
The lowers are easy if you separate them, difficult but not impossible if you don't. Take them both off for an oil change. Guess why. The mids are a little touchy to get slotted into the upper sides. That's as far as I've been. The next level looks easy, but I'm told the nose cone is a bitch with hidden fasteners and shit.
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JNM


Expert Class
Posts: 109
posted May 10, 2004 01:14 PM        
Sheeet man, so I'm not going crazy. Tightened up all the slack in mine, and a week later its loose again - and not from the adjuster loosening up. Gotta be a simple fix?
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CCS #428

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D


Needs a job
Posts: 3365
posted May 10, 2004 02:52 PM        
Ya don't hafta take the fairing off ta adjust the throttle cable (that's for those of us that have the bike).

A lil gentle manipulatio is all that is needed - you King Kong knuckledragger types may want to remove the fairing though.

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CanyonCarver


Expert Class
Posts: 121
posted May 10, 2004 11:46 PM        
Service Manual Says:

* If necessary, adjust the throttle cable as follows:
* Loosen the locknut
* Screw accelerator cable adjuster to give the throttle grip plenty of play
*Turn the accelerator cable adjuster until 2 - 3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
*Tighten the locknut.
* If necessary, adjust the decelerator cable as follows:
* Remove:
Air Cleaner Housing
* Loosen the locknut
* Screw decelerator cable adjuster to give the throttle grip plenty of play.
* Turn the decelerator cable adjuster until 2 - 3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
* Tighten the locknut.


Guessing that maybe it is the decelerator cable under the tank that is causing the problems. Sounds like everyone is just adjusting the accelerator cable only.

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worm~hole


Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
posted May 23, 2004 11:56 AM        
quote:
Service Manual Says:

* If necessary, adjust the throttle cable as follows:
* Loosen the locknut
* Screw accelerator cable adjuster to give the throttle grip plenty of play
*Turn the accelerator cable adjuster until 2 - 3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
*Tighten the locknut.
* If necessary, adjust the decelerator cable as follows:
* Remove:
Air Cleaner Housing
* Loosen the locknut
* Screw decelerator cable adjuster to give the throttle grip plenty of play.
* Turn the decelerator cable adjuster until 2 - 3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
* Tighten the locknut.


Guessing that maybe it is the decelerator cable under the tank that is causing the problems. Sounds like everyone is just adjusting the accelerator cable only.


...CC...have you experienced this slack cable syndrome and have you adjusted the decelerator cable under the tank per the shop manual?...if so, did it actually cure the slack cable syndrome better than the accelerator cable adjustment alone?...looking at the 'flimsy' accel cable, it'd appear that its adjustment range is very limited, so perhaps what suggesting required indeed...thanks!
____________
“We sleep safe in our beds because rough men
stand ready in the night to visit violence on those
who would do us harm.”

-George Orwell

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CanyonCarver


Expert Class
Posts: 121
posted May 23, 2004 12:51 PM        
quote:
quote:
Service Manual Says:

* If necessary, adjust the throttle cable as follows:
* Loosen the locknut
* Screw accelerator cable adjuster to give the throttle grip plenty of play
*Turn the accelerator cable adjuster until 2 - 3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
*Tighten the locknut.
* If necessary, adjust the decelerator cable as follows:
* Remove:
Air Cleaner Housing
* Loosen the locknut
* Screw decelerator cable adjuster to give the throttle grip plenty of play.
* Turn the decelerator cable adjuster until 2 - 3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in.) of throttle grip play is obtained.
* Tighten the locknut.


Guessing that maybe it is the decelerator cable under the tank that is causing the problems. Sounds like everyone is just adjusting the accelerator cable only.


...CC...have you experienced this slack cable syndrome and have you adjusted the decelerator cable under the tank per the shop manual?...if so, did it actually cure the slack cable syndrome better than the accelerator cable adjustment alone?...looking at the 'flimsy' accel cable, it'd appear that its adjustment range is very limited, so perhaps what suggesting required indeed...thanks!


Nope. Haven't done it myself, yet. But after this morning's ride, I think I will have to next Saturday. It's funny, 'cause when the bike is sitting still it doesn't feel like it has much slop in the cables. But, when riding it is very apparent, and bothersome. One more thing to do next Saturday.

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worm~hole


Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
posted May 23, 2004 01:26 PM        Edited By: worm~hole on 23 May 2004 14:31
I attempted to get to the decell cable under the tank...too tight confines under the tank even when its tilted up at the front off of the frame...so attempted to remove the tank off from the frame...what a PITA!!!...you'll need a special tools (or savvy, a strong grip from your finger tips, a tiny flat-blade screw driver, a slim needle nose plier, and trust not to muck up your tank) to seperate the fuel pump lead connector and to 'open' the fuel line joint lock claws and remove the tank from the frame...I have none of these so I'll have to put it off until I get the right tools...I guess that's what dense-mass-centralization does to the work-space ergonomics on these bikes...and we thought the 12R was bad
____________
“We sleep safe in our beds because rough men
stand ready in the night to visit violence on those
who would do us harm.”

-George Orwell

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kz2zx


Pro
Nobody in Particular
Posts: 1166
posted May 23, 2004 01:29 PM        
Maybe I'll trade mine in on an '05 before I need to adjust the valves, then...


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zeta xray


Expert Class
Posts: 416
posted May 23, 2004 06:30 PM        
Removing the fuel tank did not require any exotic tools. I did mine a while back and didn't think it was much of a challenge. I used my fingers to squeeze the orange locking tab to get it started, then a small blade screw driver to retract it all of the way. The fuel line then slides off. The connector couldn't have been too difficult because I don't even remember doing it.....
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worm~hole


Needs a life
Miles to go before I sleep....
Posts: 10623
posted May 23, 2004 06:37 PM        
...I have a mild case of arthrits in my fingers (one too many kung-fu actions grips on the bad guys), so its really difficult for me to work in tight spaces...that's why I hesitate to sign up for the bomb-arson unit...finger cramps...anyway, I'll get the tools....ya' mean ya' didn't have to remove the power plug form the fuel pump to lay the tank on the floor?
____________
“We sleep safe in our beds because rough men
stand ready in the night to visit violence on those
who would do us harm.”

-George Orwell

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